Here is my way of tearing down a 523 stove. I'm sure there are some who have done more of these than me. I have done more than most. I have preformed the following procedure on a 100+ of these stoves.
First make sure you have some type of absorbent surface. Cardboard works great for this. Make sure you have a fire extinguisher or two handy. Also make sure to get as much fuel out of it as possible.
The subject stove today is a 40's model Coleman MD 523.
Start by removing the 4 legs from the stove. Do this by pulling out on the leg just enough to get it to clear the stove frame. Don't pull too hard these legs can and will break at the bends.
Next unthread the burner by turning the wind guard of the burner. 99% of the time these will come off by hand.
Make sure the tip cleaner lever is down for the next step.
Now you have the burner off it will look like this.
Using a 9/16 wrench loosen the vaporizer nut/pre heater cup. Just get it started with the wrench.
While holding down on the vaporizer unthread the nut/ pre heater cup. Make sure to hold the body of the vaporizer in place while doing this.
This is what it will look like after the nut is removed.
Very carefully slide the body of the vaporizer straight up. Here is what it will look like with the vaporizer body off.
Turn the tip cleaning lever up for this next step.
Here is a look at the tip cleaner rod and tip.
These older stoves had threaded tip cleaner rods. They are locked into place by a nut at the bottom of the rod. Follow this next step very close.
Most of the time you can get the tip cleaner rod jamb nut to break loose by gripping the rod and giving it a turn. DO NOT SCORE THE ROD. If you slip with a pair of pliers and score the tip rod you must file it down before you put it back together. If you don't remove any burs on the tip rod it will catch on the screen in the vaporizer.
If you cant get it to break fee like that use a small pair of hemostats or needle nose pliers on the locking nut. Or you can use the wrench that is with the stove. It has a slot just for this.
After you get the rod loose turn it the rest of the way by hand. Try not to move the position of the locking nut very much. This is what sets the stroke of the tip cleaning rod.
Now you have the vaporizer off next is the valve assembly.
Back the valve knob out until it stops. Most of the time these are stuck after long term storage or non use.
Loosen the packing nut with a 9/16 wrench. Keep in mind that the tank and the valve will bend so don't " HE MAN" it.
After the packing nut is loose most of the time you can unthread it the rest of the way by hand.
Next untread the valve the rest of the way out. Most of the time these are in there pretty good. Keep in mind that these are packing assembles so some force is required to get them out. I will thread them in a little and then back it out with force then back in and so on until it breaks free and threads the rest of the way out.
Now you have the valve assembly out.
Remove the screw for the valve knob and you can remove the packing nut and the packing.
Next grab you valve tool sold by Ernie Hiatt at the S.T.A. Shop in Rochester Indiana. Using a tool like this is the best way to apply even force on the valve.
Place the valve tool on the valve with the narrower side to the tip cleaner lever boss.
Using the valve tool unthread the valve out of the tank.
Remove the F&A tube from the valve. Same as a lantern just shorter.
Next remove the screws that hold the tank in. Note that the front plate is held in between the tank and the frame. Also a word of caution. If the screw will not turn don't force it. Soak it with PB Blaster of WD-40, Fluid Film or something.
Now you have the tank out of the frame.
Using your check valve removal tool also sold by Ernie Hiatt at the S.T.A. Shop in Rochester Indiana and remove the check valve.
Note these older stoves use the " barrel " style check valve.
Congratulations!!! You have just torn down a 523 stove!!
I will cover assembly in a separate thread.