I was lucky enough to pick up this lantern, a week or so ago. Even though it appears to be almost in like new condition, it was manufactured in January, 1987! That's almost 37 years ago. Since we're all pretty much aware of the high failure rate of o-rings, I decided to disassemble this, inspect & clean it and replace the two o-rings. So, while I was at it, I thought that I'd break my 7-year hiatus and come out with another one of my (useful - exciting - useless - boring -- pick the adjective of your choice) tutorials! We'll call this one (of course, what else?), Project 222A!
Here is the subject as I received it, in really great shape for its age:
OK, here we go! First, pull the ends of the bail outward and remove it.
Lift off the vent.
Now, the globe.
The heat shield comes off next.
Loosen and remove the frame nut.
Lift the frame off.
Now, the base rest...
Unscrew & remove the stud.
Turn the knob to the upright (12 o'clock) position.
Loosen the generator nut and remove it.
Carefully lift the generator, unhooking the cleaning needle, and remove it.
Loosen the knob screw and remove the knob.
Remove the valve stem retaining clip, working from top to bottom - one step at a time.
Removing the fuel cap.
Unclip and remove the pump.
I took these next two photos in order to illustrate the correct clocking of the valve:
Carefully clamp the valve in a vice. VERY LIGHTLY!!! Just enough to hold it - no tighter! This valve body is aluminum and is incredibly easy to distort and bend!
Firmly grab the fount and turn counter-clockwise to loosen the valve. Then remove the valve by hand - counting the exact number of turns it takes until the valve comes out. You'll need this later when you reinstall the valve!
Remove the valve stem by twisting back & forth as you pull it outward.
Now, unscrew the F/A tube from the valve. I tried using my strap wrench, but it was on far too tight for that. I used my vice-grips and a piece of leather wrapped around the tube to prevent marring, as shown. When loose, unscrew the tube by hand,
Now, remove the eccentric block.
The disassembled valve...
Here is the generator, disassembled...
Here is the entire lantern disassembled and after a good cleaning.
In regards to the burner assembly on this lantern - the burner cap and burner tube ARE NOT removable!!!
It appears the cap & tube are one piece and are crimped into the burner frame. Do not attempt to disassemble!
To summarize the cleaning process:
The brass parts went into a lemon juice bath and were scrubbed with a toothbrush. Then they were rinsed with hot water and dried. Finally, polished them lightly with 0000 steel wool. I want to point out that, with the generator - this is an original 222A-2991 generator. These have been unobtanium for quite a while now! So I didn't let it soak for an extended period of time. It looks pretty good, but not perfect. I'm happy if it performs perfectly rather than looking perfect - and it has to last, so I decided to soak it as little as possible, thereby affecting the brass as little as possible. All of the fuel handling parts (including the aluminum valve body) were sprayed thoroughly with Gumout Carb Cleaner Spray.
The steel parts went into a separate lemon juice soak. Scrubbed, rinsed and dried. Really didn't need much cleaning.
The nickel parts (base rest, fuel cap and bail) were just wiped down with Formula 409 and a rag. Same with the fount & vent. Again, they were quite clean already. The bottom of the fount had a few paint scrapes which I filled in with some Krylon Gloss Black paint using a brush, just to prevent future rusting!
The inside of the fount looked like new, but it stunk pretty badly of stale fuel. So I rinsed it very thoroughly with fresh Coleman fuel, then emptied it and let it dry out completely. Smells fine now!
OK, now for the reassembly...
Here are the new o-rings below the old ones.
The o-rings installed on the eccentric block and the valve stem, respectively.
Applying a little hi-temp silicone lube to the o-rings...
Insert the eccentric block into the valve body, aligning the flat portion with the valve stem hole as shown. Center the slot on the block in the hole, also as shown.
Insert the valve stem by gently twisting, while pushing in slowly. Ensure that the pin of the stem enters the slot of the block. You'll know this by two ways:
1) The stem will be flush with the valve body, as shown -AND-
2) Turning the valve stem will cause the eccentric block to move up and down
Apply thread sealer to the F/A tube threads, screw it into the valve body and tighten...
The assembled valve body...
Now, install the retaining clip, one step at a time, until it is fully seated.
Apply thread sealer to the valve body threads and screw it into the fount. Tighten it the same number of turns that you counted when you removed it!
Place the knob on the valve stem. Insert and tighten the screw.
Turn the valve knob to the 12 o'clock (up) position. Hook the generator's cleaning rod into the eccentric block, as shown.
Lower the generator to the valve body flange, then install the generator nut (lightly finger-tight only).
Install the stud...
...and now the base rest.
Lower the burner assembly on the stud, making sure that the generator enters the hole in the upper part of the frame.
Install & tighten the nut.
Finish tightening the generator nut.
The heat shield is next...
...followed by the pump.
Installing the fuel cap.
We're in the home stretch. Tie on a new mantle...
...and burn it in.
Now the globe...
...and the bail.
A mini-Sunshine of the Night!
I hope that some of you found this helpful!