Easi-Lite Valves - A Field Guide

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bklock
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Easi-Lite Valves - A Field Guide

#1

Post by bklock »

I'm working on a video about Easi-Lite valves and started with some exploded diagrams of the more common variants. I ended up making a PDF file, which included a bit of introductory material as well. I thought I'd post it all here. This was largely inspired by Roland.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Coleman Easi-Lite Valves:

A Field Guide

William Klock – January 2020

History

The Easi-Lite valve was introduced by The Canadian Coleman Company in 1973. The 321 Lantern was the first to use this new design, followed the following year by the 621 and 331, the latter having a revised and simplified version of the original valve. A similar valve was introduced in 1976 on the full line of Canadian stoves: 431, 432, 433, and 505.

The reason for these new valve designs seems to have been a desire to integrate the fuel tip cleaning feature directly into the fuel valve control. This meant switching from the traditional threaded valve and valve stem to a new design centred on an eccentric block and a mating valve stem capable of running through “Closed, Clean, Light, and Run” in a single rotation, using a combination of o-rings and Schrader valves as seals.

All of the Easi-Lite valves use an o-ring to seal the valve stem. Early models incorporated a Schrader valve to control the flow of fuel, while later valves relied on o-rings that seated either into the bottom of the valve or the top of the fuel and air tube.

Troubleshooting and Repair

Early version of the Easi-Lite valve are notoriously vexing to work with. The design was simplified in later versions, but all of the Easi-Lites at least suffer from the problem of o-ring failure.

The symptoms of o-ring failure are fuel leaking at the valve stem (behind the control knob), poor burning, and failure to shut-off when the fuel valve is closed.

With the exception of the full-size stoves (431, 432, 433), valve stem o-rings are easy to replace. Remove the retainer nut or spring clip and pull the valve stem out of the valve body. When the new o-ring has been installed, simply reinsert the valve stem and rotate it until it mates with the eccentric block and “falls” into place. If it is seated properly, turning the stem will cause the eccentric block to rise and fall.

To replace the valve stem o-ring on the full-size stoves, the valve itself must be removed from the fuel tank so that the fuel and air tube can be removed. The plunger is spring-loaded and will pop up when the valve stem is removed from the valve body, obstructing reinsertion. With the fuel and air tube removed, the valve stem can be reinserted. The fuel and air tube can then be reattached and the stem turned until the plunger falls into place.

Refer the appropriate valve diagrams to see how to replace the o-rings or Schrader valves that control fuel flow. Each valve is different.

The 321/621 and 431 valves incorporate a Schrader-like valve into the plunger itself. If the seal on the plunger fails, it will likely be necessary to source a replacement from a donor lantern or stove.

The 321A/621A/505 valves are best left alone if they are working properly. The Schrader valves “stick” in the fuel and air tube, requiring cautious heat applied with a propane torch in order to free them. If you try to unscrew the Schrader valve without first heating it, you’ll separate the top of the valve. You may have trouble getting the two halves back together again. Overheating the tube to remove the valve may also damage the valve’s seals. Additionally, once removed, the 321A/621A/505 fuel and air tube is tricky to reinstall as it’s not simply a matter of screwing it into the valve until tight. On these models the old adage is best observed: “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”.

Sourcing New O-rings

Coleman typically used o-rings made of fluorosilicone, which can be identified by its blue colour. Fluorosilicone is fuel resistant, but is best used in static applications, as it wears out fairly quickly. Coleman seems to have preferred it, because it holds up to cold very well. If you’re going to use your stove or lantern in very low temperatures, you may want to source fluorosilicone replacement o-rings. If not, Viton is a better (and more readily available) option, as it’s both fuel resistant and very durable.

When sourcing replacement Schrader valves, be sure the ones you select are fuel resistant as well.

I hope the following diagrams help demystify Easi-Lite valves and help with troubleshooting and repair. I also hope to add diagrams for the 621C and 505 when I can get my hands on specimens of each.

321 Valve Annotated.jpg 321A Valve Annotated.jpg ass="bbc_img" src="/files/attachments/4979966-321B%20Valve%20Annotated.jpg" alt="321B Valve Annotated.jpg" /> 321C Valve Annotated.jpg 431 Valve Annotated.jpg 505A Valve Annotated.jpg
325A Valve Annotated.jpg

Bill

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Looking for birthday lanterns: 3/72 and 3/74
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#2

Post by Greazy »

Thanks for posting this information. I have 4 Easi-Lite lanterns and although at this time they operate as intended this may be helpful in the future. The exploded views are especially informative.-Tom
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#3

Post by Rubing »

Thanks man!
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#4

Post by Rhubarb »

Wow.Very informative William! I look forward to seeing the videos and I am sure @RolandChevalier would be pleased with your efforts.
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#5

Post by RolandChevalier »

I am pleased!
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#6

Post by Flyboyfwa »

Great information.
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#7

Post by Northman49 »

That is excellent. There seems to be a lot of interest in these Easi-Lites however I do not see any of these models listed in OCP . Some of us have the original parts diagrams that came with these lanterns/stoves and I have a few. Would it be useful for a scanned parts list to add to this post? I am under the impression that most Canadian made Coleman GPAs with unique parts have been neglected on most parts list.
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#8

Post by bklock »

Ed,

I've got a bunch of those old owner's manuals with parts lists as well. I haven't found them very useful as they tend not to break things down very much. The whole valve assembly is one part, for example. I think I've got them for 431, 432, 433, 321/621, 321A/621A, 331, 325/625, and 621D.
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#9

Post by salukispeed »

Very nice and a good aid if you have never taken one apart. Well done
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#10

Post by gwillmot »

Wonderful work and post ..... now if you could just find a way to pdf a repair man to the house ......

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#11

Post by holliswood »

This information is awesome! I’m going to revisit a 226 I recently went through as I believe I have the eccentric block a quarter turn off, per the diagram.
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#12

Post by Kansas_John »

I hope to get to a 519 heater soon. Would you be interested in including this valve as well? If so, I will try to gather images formatted like yours.
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#13

Post by bklock »

Thanks for the offer, John. The 519 valve is the same as the 431, 432, and 433 valve. I should probably note that on the image of the stove valve.
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#14

Post by Kansas_John »

good to know! In the 321a and 621a image there is a small circular item above the shrader valve that isn't labeled. What is that thing?
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#15

Post by bklock »

[QUOTE username=Kansas John userid=3355497 postid=1310591749]good to know! In the 321a and 621a image there is a small circular item above the shrader valve that isn't labeled. What is that thing?
John,
That's the top part of the Schrader valve. Roland said it might be a problem to show it separated like that. I mentioned it in the notes and in the introductory material. This is why you don't remove the schrader valve if you don't have to. The outer seal sticks tightly in the f/a tube. To get it loose, you've got to heat the f/a tube with a torch...cautiously...just enough to loosen that rubber seal. If you just try to unscrew the schrader valve, the threaded top bit--the piece you noted in the photo--will simply separate from the rest of the schrader valve. You can usually snap them back together, but I've had a 50/50 success rate with them after that. That said, the issue might have been that heating the f/a tube to remove the valve may simply have cooked the seal. Bottom line: If it's working, don't take it apart. If the f/a tube is clogged, try everything else before pulling the schrader valve.
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#16

Post by austin65uri »

Very nicely done and thank you. I'll add this to what I have saved from Roland's posts.
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#17

Post by sourgasjohn »

Very nice work. Those stove valves could be a bit puzzling if you broke one down and just put all the pieces on a plate or something!
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#18

Post by SteveRetherford »

nice work , thanks for sharing it here !!!
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#19

Post by holliswood »

@bklock

On the 621a assembly, where you say the schrader valve can/could snap, does that only apply to the schrader valve? When the schrader does go bad, I’ve read the round head has to be trimmed on the replacement. As long as it’s only the old schrader valve that’s gone bad, everything else should be fine then??



As you suggested, I’ll not mess with mine unless and when it becomes necessary. You’ll have to forgive me as this kind of stuff is right up my alley.

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#20

Post by bklock »

Fred,

I don't know that I'd describe it as "snapping". The outside seal on the valve "sticks" to the inside of the f/a tube. If you try to unscrew the valve, the threaded top bit will simply pull off the rest of the valve. Somehow, you've got to heat the tube to loosen the valve, before unscrewing it. I haven't been successful. Even after gently heating, it takes a good tug to pop the valve out. The joint between the two halves won't withstand the force when the top is unscrewed, even if it's heated a little. When I heated it more, it cooked the valve. I have, however, been successful in unscrewing the top part, then heating the tube and extracting the rest of the valve. I put the two haves back together before reinserting the valve. It's worked a couple of times and a couple of times the valve leaked. I can't say for certain if the leak was the result of the valve being pulled apart or over-application of heat to remove it.

If you replace the schrader valve and the replacement has a nub on the stem you may have to remove it. The nub shouldn't interfere with the valve body and eccentric block, but it may not allow the stem to be pushed down far enough when the valve is open. If it doesn't work right with the nub, then you'll have to file it off. Just make sure you don't shorten the stem in the process.

Bill

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#21

Post by holliswood »

@bklock

Thank you for the information.

On mine I’ll only change the o-ring on the valve stem to start with.


I’m going to assume if the schrader is bad, it’ll push fuel out of the generator before lighting and won’t stay lit for long?

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#22

Post by bklock »

[QUOTE username=holliswood userid=6536654 postid=1310592895]

I’m going to assume if the schrader is bad, it’ll push fuel out of the generator before lighting and won’t stay lit for long?


If the schrader valve is bad it won't shut off. If the valve stem o-ring is bad, it'll leak air into the fuel mixture resulting in poor running and possible flaring and will also leak fuel from behind the knob. This is why the knobs are frequently scorched.
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#23

Post by Newfie »

I think this is great work.

Can I request one more thing? :-)

Can the schrader valve sizes be indicated? That's if you know the sizes of course.

Shane Looking for the following Canadian birthday lanterns or lamps: 2-32, 6-34,
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#24

Post by stoves1234 »

I appreciate the info. FYI, I replaced the o-rings recently on a 321-B using nitrile rings that looked "real close" to the originals. The leaking and flare-up reminded me that sometimes "close" isn't good enough when it comes to o-rings. I got the proper rings from OCP for about $3 and the lantern burns the way it's supposed to.
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#25

Post by RolandChevalier »

807-3S are what i bought from a Parker Distributor. Keep in mind that for use in an EasiLite they have to be modified. The knob diameter has to be removed from the pin. Make sure you don't shorten the pin in the process. THIS IS IMPORTANT. I WILL SAY IT AGAIN - THIS IS IMPORANT !
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#26

Post by bklock »

[QUOTE username=Newfie userid=1943892 postid=1310600359]I think this is great work.

Can the schrader valve sizes be indicated? That's if you know the sizes of course.


I wish I knew. I took the old valve to three different auto supply places and had no luck. Roland gave me a Napa part number (A9547), which I took back there yesterday. I don't know why they didn't do it before, but when I gave him the part number he went to the back and came out with a huge box, pulled a tray out, and had several of that part number. It specified that the application was for A/C, but I bought a couple anyway. The guys there said that what I was looking for was a valve typically found in a Ford fuel rail. I went to the Ford dealer. They don't sell just the valve. It comes as part of a kit. The mechanic I spoke to said that his kit always runs out of valves before it runs out of anything else and that he uses the A/C valve I got at Napa.

I just tried the Napa A/C valve. It took a bit of fussing. The bottom tip is a tiny bit short...less than a millimetre...and wouldn't push the plunger out far enough to expose the bottom of the notch. I snipped a tiny piece off a brass rod and put it in the well at the top of the plunger as a shim and that's done the trick. This 621A is up and running again.

So to answer your question, I'd take the old valve and the f/a tube with you when you go to buy another. If it threads into the f/a tube, you've got the right diameter. All you have to is make sure it's the right length. And, as Roland noted, you'll have to sand or file down the nub on the top, since it'll obstruct the full range of motion required to get the plunger notch exposed. I put a piece of 220 grit sandpaper on the edge of my workbench, screwed the valve into the f/a tube so I had something to hold, and then worked it against the sandpaper until the plunger was able to pass through the hole.
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#27

Post by RolandChevalier »

The number I quoted was for a Viton Schrader valve.
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#28

Post by bklock »

[QUOTE username=RolandChevalier userid=1274540 postid=1310601447]The number I quoted was for a Viton Schrader valve.
I assume you're referring to 807-3S that you posted above. I was talking about the one you gave me a couple of weeks ago. The Napa part definitely isn't Viton.
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#30

Post by RolandChevalier »

I bought 100 of these Viton Schrader valves. I'm willing to sell them unmodified if you are in a pinch. I would have to get $2.00 each plus shipping from Canada. Shipping would probably be $2 or $3 per package.
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#31

Post by Phredd »

Great thread with loads of very useful info!

Maybe this should be moved to the How To category?
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#32

Post by Coldwaterpaddler »

@bklock what I discovered recently, when I disassembled a brown 1983 222 lantern, is that earlier models use the valve configuration shown in your 222 diagram, but later brown 222's like my 1983 model use the 222A valve configuration. Here is the diagram I posted on my blog a couple of months ago for reference:

222_Valve_Parts.jpg

The 226 lantern uses a similar configuration, so I added it here for later reference:
226_All_orings.jpg
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#33

Post by Coldwaterpaddler »

Also, @bklock I'm wondering about the fiber and brass washers on the Easi-Lite 431. I just rebuilt a 519 and mine were installed the other way around, but it looks like the heater may have been disassembled prior to my disassembly. Are you pretty confident that that is the correct orientation? If so I may disassemble mine and fix it and change my blog entry. Also, I tried the #008 but it didn't seem to fit correctly, so I opted for a 1.5x5 O-ring. Does the #008 size originate from Coleman?

519_stem_seal_spring.jpg
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#34

Post by bklock »

Bill

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#35

Post by Coldwaterpaddler »

1.5x5 is a standard size, too, but it fit better in the 519 than the #008, so what I'm asking is whether or not you know that the #008 is what was originally spec'd by Coleman. Thanks for the speedy response.
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#36

Post by bklock »

@Coldwaterpaddler
The diagrams I've seen don't give the spec on the o-ring. I determined the size by measuring it and it matches the dimensions of an 008 o-ring. If you put it next to the o-rings from the lantern valve stems, which are 009, it's smaller. I can't speak for a 519. I had one once and replaced the o-rings in it, which is how I know it uses the same design as the stoves, but I can't vouch for the components being the same dimensions.
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#37

Post by Coldwaterpaddler »

@bklock Okay, cool. That's the same method I've been using. My 519 O-ring was so flat that nothing in the catalog matched up exactly. When I fitted a 8 and 9 neither seemed to fit correctly which is why I opted for the 1.5x5. I've been testing the heater and so far this O-ring is working properly.

I was thinking that maybe the one on the face of the valve was a standard square-type design because it was soooo flat. But, it still seals so I didn't replace it. But, you're saying a #006 will do it, so if I pull the valve apart to swap the washers, then maybe I'll just pull it all the way apart and change this O-ring, too.

519_valve_stem_w_tip_cleaner.jpg
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#38

Post by Coldwaterpaddler »

@holliswood the diagrams show the eccentric block with the slot facing up because they roll that way when set on a flat surface. The flat face of the eccentric block faces the valve stem when installed and not exactly as shown in any of the photos. If the valve opens and closes you probably got it right as is.
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#39

Post by holliswood »

@Coldwaterpaddler

Wheww!! Good to know! I wasn’t far off from removing the generator to look.
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#40

Post by Newfie »

@RolandChevalier, I sent you a PM regarding the schrader valves.
Shane Looking for the following Canadian birthday lanterns or lamps: 2-32, 6-34,
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#41

Post by bklock »

@RolandChevalier
I've sent you a message as well.
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Easi-Lite Valves - A Field Guide

#42

Post by gwillmot »

Buying a new car wasn't this complicated!
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bklock
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Easi-Lite Valves - A Field Guide

#43

Post by bklock »

I've just edited the original post to include a diagram of the modern lantern and single-burner stove valve. (325A/625A, CL series, 280/290 series, and 22X series).
Bill

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Easi-Lite Valves - A Field Guide

#44

Post by Rhubarb »

Bump - Archive Material
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Easi-Lite Valves - A Field Guide

#45

Post by Lant_ern »

Thanks

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Easi-Lite Valves - A Field Guide

#46

Post by Northman49 »

Resurrecting this old post.
I have a 505 easi-lite stove and it will not shut off. As expected the schraeder valve is the problem. This is a much smaller diameter schraeder valve than used in lanterns. Is there a source for these or a specification?
She was only a moonshiner's daughter, but I loved her still.

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bklock
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Easi-Lite Valves - A Field Guide

#47

Post by bklock »

The 505 valve is the same as the 321A/621A valve and should use the same schrader valve. Are you sure the valve is bad? What typically happens is that someone removes the pick-up from the valve body and, when replacing it, screws it back on until it's tight. When this is done, the schrader valve bottoms out on the actuator and is stuck open. They can be a pain to work on. As I explained in the Fieldguide, you have to screw it back in, set the valve to full open and screw the pick-up on until the notch in the air wire just barely appears through the fuel orifice. Screw it in any more than that and it'll never fully close.
Bill

"No one after lighting a lamp puts it under a basket...especially if it's gas-powered."

Looking for birthday lanterns: 3/72 and 3/74
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Easi-Lite Valves - A Field Guide

#48

Post by Northman49 »

Let me correct myself. I just checked and the schraeder is same as all the others. I managed to remove the original by using a heat gun to the schraeder general area and she popped out quite nicely. I totally agree that the F/A tube is position sensitive as you advised. I am working on this and will see what happens. It is a spare unit so I can fiddle without destroying a valuable piece.
She was only a moonshiner's daughter, but I loved her still.

I keep my tools sharp...but my mind sharper!
  Ed
                 ICCC no.1880
                 CANADIAN BLUES Member #023
     
                  Mil-spec ops #1982
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