200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.
Hi.  I enthusiastically started rebuilding my Sears dual-mantle lantern (476.72212 dated 5/69) over the holidays.  It was my Dad's and has hung in his shed for the past 30+ years.  It is in great shape and I'm looking forward to getting it humming.  I fired it up before starting the rebuild but could tell that it wasn't holding pressure very well.  Don't know if a complete rebuild was needed but I thought it would be fun. 

I was following the disassembly steps on this website and managed to mess up a part today.  I mangled the valve assembly pretty bad while trying to break it free from the fount.  In my defense, it took a lot of pressure to finally break it free.  The top of it is totally stripped and is now no longer round, so I will need a new one.  My question.... I think the Coleman 220 is the equivalent of my lantern but there are a lot of 220x designations.  Does mine correspond to a certain letter?  Does that matter when ordering parts or is knowing 220 all I need? 

Also, the generator looks pretty good, but should I replace it anyway?

I will be ordering a valve assembly from this site soon, but I want to finish disassembly first to see what else I might break.  I'm a bit worried since the hard part - check valve - is still to do.
Hi Dave!

Welcome to the Forum!

Your Sears lantern is the equivalent of the Coleman 220. That would be what you want to order. A new generator is a good idea. I wouldn't worry about the valve stem packing part of the instructions unless the valve nut is leaking black goo onto the fount. The check valve may also be okay. It can always bee removed when the lantern is assembled if you have to.


Name: Murff   ICCC Member #726 
Coleman Blue's 243's #002   Ebay Handle: Happy-campers2 
Soon-to-be EX-ICCC Newsletter Editor & Coleman Addiction Enabler
I buggered a tip cleaner from a blue/black Sears once. I compared the valve works to a 220F works and found it was identical, down to the numbers on the casting. That should be easy to find.
ICCC Petty Bureaucrat #CMLXII...
Thanks for the help.  This site is pretty awesome.  So.... the message I'm hearing is don't take apart the valve stem packing (I don't see any problem with it - i.e. the black goo).  However, since I ruined the valve assembly I tried to remove the valve stem.  I can loosen it about 3.5 turns and then it tightens up.  Should it keep turning or should I be able to pull it out at this point?  I'm "gun shy" at this point about ruining more parts.

Also, I'm hearing I may not need to remove the check valve.  I have to admit that trying to remove it scares me and if I don't need to, I'd prefer not to.  However....I want to do this right.  If I don't remove it, how far should I go?  Should I remove the air stem and follow all of the cleaning instructions....such as the carb cleaner soak, and the carb cleaner/wire brushing from the cleaning instructions?  Anything else?

Thanks again for all of the help.

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