I recently figured out a couple tricks to solve some of these issues.
I applied them to my nuisance River Trail 150 and so far after many burns it's running better and more reliable then ever.
First trick is to make sure the generator rod is set right. In my RT is was too high and impacting the jet a bit. Just enough that maybe it helps it get loose.
Assuming that's fine, the next step is an armorers trick. I use it all the time when installing valves into fonts when I find myself needing to time them tight.
Use some grease and grease the threads on the nipple/jet. Also, grease the base of it where it will seal at the top of the gen.
Then you will find you can safely torque it on tighter than before when it was dry. On my RT150, it has yet to come loose, whereas before, without fail, it would need to be tightened before every lighting.
The next thing I did was use some copper foil around the end of the U tube threads where the nozzle adapter screws on. The adapter usually doesn't come loose, but I figured I would do this for extra seal and good measure.
And Finally, one of the best tricks I've found thus far, I can't recall where I read this on the internet, but I stumbled on it, some hand soap.
I have that common softsoap stuff, put a glob of that on the ceramic burner threads and spread it around.
Install the ceramic burner finger tight, you can't really torque it, that's how I broke my last one.
Just snug it up.
No word of a lie, that RT150 burner would always come loose. It would typically migrate at least 1mm after every burn, but since I tried this, it has not budged. I'm blown away.
I guess the soap get reduced to a kind of tar from the heat, and it both locks the threads and seals the joint. I have not taken the burner off to see what happened to the soap, I dont' want to. That lamp works so well now, I want to see how long it will last without service.