200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.


Looking for some advice on what to do next.

Bought a 1945 AGMCO at the Madison get together in March, it was my most desired item going to the swap, so was excited when I found one in great shape.  Noticed at the time that the left valve was froze up, but decided to wait until warmer weather to dig in.

S7-20180603 16_40_59.jpg 

When I got back to it I tried heating the valve with a small, then larger propane torch, but to no avail... that's when the trouble started.

I started to tear down the valve working my way down, when I went to spin out the valve, the threads soldered into the tank spun, and now I have a leak where noted in the last picture. (tested it by putting a small amount of alcohol in the depression with air in the tank and bubbles come out the seam.

S7-20180603 16_41_10.jpg 

S7-20180603 16_41_24.jpg 

One question, is this a common failure point, if so was there something I should have done differently (other than trying more heat first?)

Hoping someone has a good suggestion, the best I have come up with so far are:

1) Replace tank (I have concerns on how I avoid the same fate in the next tank)
2) Try and re-solder the seal (not sure how I would go about that, and not really excited about trying to repaint the tank)
3) Try and seal the tank from the inside with POR-15?
4) Other suggestion?

Thanks for reading, and thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Looking for a non-220 series birthday lantern - 10/76
I would not use a sealer on it. There are many talented people here, maybe someone can help you out with a solder job.
looking for 200a 11-56,9-77,2-65 Coleman 275 appreciation syndicate member #0004 ICCC #1262
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #19
Frank appreciation syndicate member #9
Unfortunately, yes, that is a fairly common problem in that the solder on the tanks is not particularly strong.  I Would not be a fan of caswells or Por-15 here as that is going to be a tough spot to seal well and is in a spot where a leak could be catastrophic very quickly.  

I would be tempted to use a torch and see if I could melt the solder that is already present and let it reseal.  I think the best option would be to suspend the tank with the bung on the under side so solder will run into the joint rather than drip into the tank.   You could probably run some rosin core solder into the hole and hold it to the back side of the joint to get a bit of extra material into the seam as you heat it.

 Also, on my AGM 523s they use the AGM style check valve so the tank may have to come from another AGM donor in order for all the tank parts to work with it.  Other option would be to replace the tank with another 523 (Coleman, SMP) but keep the pump, and cap from the donor rather than using the original parts.   

I've found the 523 to be a bit less mil-spec than the lanterns when it comes to parts swaps between manufacturers and generations.
Will from TN.

Quickly becoming a stovie.  Love HGPs, Military and Utility Burners, HeatMasters and any other gigantic Flame.  Always interested in 523s, HGPs, and 23x
The paint on that tank is pretty nice.   I'd keep the surrounding area cool while hitting it with a torch.   In addition to water in the fount, wet towels around the area to be hit with a torch.  I've never tried welding  putty / heat sink putty, but that may be an option for keeping the heat down in the  surrounding areas.

I was assuming there was no fuel in the tank, but thought that might be a bad idea.  Please ensure no fuel or fumes in the tank before applying a torch.


Flammable liquids, open flame, what could go wrong?

I've missed you!  But I'm reloading.
Make sure any steam can escape too
Mike, ICCC member #1156, Slant Saver Group #011, 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0215, FAS #20 - Confusing Future Generations of Collectors One Lantern at a Time
"In order for the light to shine so brightly, the darkness must be present"
Francis Bacon
(and - for those who have asked - avatar from postcard and says "Coming Home by Rail".  https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4595/27430282209_39a564be00_z.jpg

If you are questioning your skills that's normal for some, just ask around at local shops that do radiator repair. Sometimes a 12 pack of whatever will be enough to get the job done. Also, some HVAC repair people will do small jobs on the side. 
"...we also glory in our sufferings, because we know that suffering produces perseverance; perseverance, character; and character, hope" Romans 5:3-4
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. 

Before I attempt  any soldering I think I will try and get the valve to open first, any tips on where to heat, or how hot to heat the area?  I tried to do it with a propane torch but didn't have any luck. 

Also when I get to the soldering portion I am assuming I can do it with the valve in place since I can't get it out?  Can I heat the area to be soldered via the valve body?
Looking for a non-220 series birthday lantern - 10/76
Kroil is your friend.   Heat it up and then soak it for a few days, then repeat the process.  Eventually kroil will seep into the threads and help you but it may take 3 or 4 weeks and several doses of kroil to do so.   None of the other penetrating oils I have tried came close to Kroil so I would get it even if you have to mail order it as opposed to buying liquid wrench at the local Home store.
Will from TN.

Quickly becoming a stovie.  Love HGPs, Military and Utility Burners, HeatMasters and any other gigantic Flame.  Always interested in 523s, HGPs, and 23x
I say that it is already wide open. Try closing it.
I had success with a leak at the top of the fount that was in the solder joint. I removed the original valve, and inserted a old valve body. I carefully sanded the paint off on top of the solder joint. I then held a propane torch at an angle and heated the valve until the original solder started to flow and soldered the joint. Applying the heat at an angle did not damage the fount paint. I lightly taped off around the repair and rattle can painted the repair. Since it is under the collar you can’t tell it was repaired and the lantern is up and running.

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