200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

Jims 220K
Was at a Flea Market this last Sunday and picked up a really clean 200A for $40. Didn't looked hardly used so I didn't bother to examine it. Another "rookie" move on my part. To get right to it, the chamber where the pressure pump and check valve are, the walls, are rusted badly. It appears at some point it had gotten rained on or submerged and it never got dried out. I've been using a stainless steel 12  ga. shotgun bore brush attached to a drill but it's not getting all of it. I did manage to get it as clean as possible, fueled it, and got it to fire and it did run correctly. The check valve is stuck, air escapes before I can close the pump, so now its soaking in carburetor cleaner.  The big question is, am I gonna go through pump cups fairly quickly? Maybe brake cylinder hone stones? I realize that if I remove too much metal it won't pressure at all.  The inside of the tank surprisingly is clean. I was going to convert this lantern to kerosene later on down the road. Is there any hope? 

Regards, Jim. 
STATUS: Missing, presumed fed.
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Ridge Runner

I think I would try to chemically remove as much rust as possible with something like Evaporust first. Then use the wheel cylinder hone to clean up the pump tube.

Edit: And dunk-test after, being aware of pinholes that could be under the rusty surface.

— L.J.
Looking for 10/2015 & 1/2020 B-Day Lanterns
I love the smell of naphtha in the morning!
"Ain’t no need to watch where I’m goin’; just need to know where I’ve been" -Tow Mater

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TwoCanoes
You're on the right track. You can clean up some pretty nasty pump tubes with Evaporust and a FlexHone. And carb cleaner will do a good job on the check valve (but it will damage paint).  Good luck.
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Majicwrench
I have used brake hones many times.  Pump cups are gonna be fine.  Check valve will clean up. You done good!
Keith
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gootsch
Get the CV tool, worth every penny.
Gootsch
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Gunhippie
Flex-hone is my go-to for these. A 3/4" brush in 400 grit is about perfect. http://m.brushresearch.com/product-flexhone-tool.php

They're cheapest direct from Brush Research.

One brush will last for dozens of uses. I use soapy water for a lube--it works as well as or better than the stuff BR sells. The brush will not flatten the walls of the tube, just make it smooth so the cup can seal well. This save you some metal.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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Ridge Runner
gootsch wrote:
Get the CV tool, worth every penny.
Yes, couldn't agree more!!

— L.J.
Looking for 10/2015 & 1/2020 B-Day Lanterns
I love the smell of naphtha in the morning!
"Ain’t no need to watch where I’m goin’; just need to know where I’ve been" -Tow Mater

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zoomkat
Instead of getting a "dingleberry" hone, you might try one of the small foam/dowel paint brushes with some wet sand paper wrapped around to smooth any protruding edges the inside of the pump bore. Minor pits probably won't effect the pumping operation significantly.
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macwacs
I have had good results using a product called "A Must For Rust" Removes the rust gentle on paint.
RMW
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Jims 220K
Thanks guys! Gonna keep plugging away at it then. Will see what the local NAPA has around the corner as far as hones and brushes. The boss has a crap load of those wooden handled foam paint brushes of various sizes. May just start with one of those and some emery cloth.

Regards, Jim.
STATUS: Missing, presumed fed.
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holliswood
Remember, anytime something is honed, some metal is lost. If it’s pitted badly but doesn’t leak air from the pump tube, a schrader valve/filler cap combo is a option. 
-Fred

ICCC Member #1871
MilSpec-Ops #1278
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #41
Perfection Heater Collectors #2 
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Coleman Slant Saver #65

snipesfred on Insta
Big Ferd on YT
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scl
as you pump it the leather will polish it up over time. keep it lubricated well.
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Gunhippie
holliswood wrote:
Remember, anytime something is honed, some metal is lost. If it’s pitted badly but doesn’t leak air from the pump tube, a schrader valve/filler cap combo is a option. 


Hence the FlexHone. A regular cylinder hone would have to take all the high spots down, leaving you with a tube only as thick as the thinnest area. The FlexHone will simply smooth the pits, preventing them from eating your pump cup.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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Jims 220K
Just bought the flex hone from NAPA a little while ago. Will try it out tonight after dinner sometime and post the results. Thanks for all of the advice AND encouragement! This is without a doubt one of the better forums I've belonged to!

Regards, Jim.
STATUS: Missing, presumed fed.
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Gasman64
Jim, my guess about the pump bore rust is that the lantern collected rain water in there (yes, obvious to most), but anytime I use even a common lantern out in rain or snow, I put a plastic pill bottle over the pump.  Handy, cheap solution to prevent what you found.
Steve
ICCC #1012

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Jims 220K
Well it's mostly smooth, smoothish? Next time I order parts will order a leather pump cup. I agree the leather will prolly smooth it out a little over time. Still working on the check valve.  I did a thorough tank cleaning and it looks really good down in there. The check valve managed to hold carb cleaner overnight so that's a good sign I think.  I filled the pump chamber up with carb cleaner the other night and in the morning it had all drained into the tank, I think I may have success. Time will tell. Thanks for all of the advice and tips. We're saving 'em one at a time for the next guys/gals!

Regards, Jim.
STATUS: Missing, presumed fed.
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Gunhippie
Smoothish is what you're shooting for. No need to go too far and lose too much metal. The leather pump cup will conform to the irregular tube, as long as there are no sharp bits to wear the leather away.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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Jims 220K
It's done. All back together and ran it for about an hour. It was really hard to light, but it finally "took off" so to speak. This one was my 4th one (2nd 200A) I fettled and decided to go as cheap as possible. I replaced the generator packing tube and a new Coleman mantle. Mostly is was just elbow grease scrubbing and cleaning. I will now approach my next ones in the same manner. I will leave the valve packing alone unless it leaks and attempt to clean and reuse the generators. These lanterns are a lot more hardy than I thought. These things were designed work thousands of hours with minimal care. Clean fuel and a clean environment and an occasional tear down. The ones I've come across so far seem to be used little and stored hard, dirty and dusty with low or no fuel stored in them. Thanks again for all of the advice and tips. On to my next one, another 220K which was running when I got it. I may try and detail the paint on this one, maybe a new sticker. I figure the K will be a good one to practice on and perfect my painting technique. 

Regards, Jim.
STATUS: Missing, presumed fed.
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