200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.
Rustyfender

Yesterday i acquired a model 426B stove which i have been led to believe dates from the 50s(unconfirmed). i want to restore the stove like i did my 413d.

here is where im stuck. i need to find some parts but i havnt had any luck finding them so here goes. the parts i need for sure are the left side aux burner valve. (currently it has a bolt threded in where the valve stem should thread in)

i also need a carrying handle thou that i imagine is easy enough to find on the old colman parts webstore. ill have to do something with the grilles not sure what yet im not sure ill be able to rescue the left side grille im going to try heating them red hot with a map gas torch and bending them back to shape unless anyone else has a better idea maby. i have boxed the parts i need in the picture below. any one that has one laying around or knows where i can find one i would greatly appreciate it.
[image] 

Missing parts and warped grille aside this is in better shape than my 413 was when i got it. least this one doesnt have any bends in the chassy. i will have to run evaporust through the fuel tank it seems but that kind of stuff isnt a big deal.

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Rustyfender
i will post progress pictures as i work on this stove and hope to learn some tricks as i want to do a better job than i did on my 413. (its functional but has alot of flaws)
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MotorcycleDan
I restored my B about 10 years ago. It is a great runner and my go to camping stove. Keep checking Old Coleman parts. I picked up both new old stock and used parts for my stove. I was able to get both legs and the handle. He has all kinds of grates. Just keep checking, his stock on parts like this come and go.

Have fun on the cleanup!
Dan ICCC #900
ICCC Treasure
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Eel
Book says 426B was made 1954-61. 

EEL Eclectic Lanterns, div.  Doofenshmirtz-EEL Incorporated.

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Gunhippie
I think I have a 426 burner assy. around here somewhere. Do you just need the rod?

For the grates, they are already nearly butter-soft from years of being annealed over the burners. I used a soft mallet to beat mine back into pretty good shape. I painted them with VHT flat silver to try to keep the future rust down, and it's held up well for about three years of use now.

One nice thing about the split grates on that 426 is that, after bending them back as well as you can, you can swap the left and right halves, putting fresh metal over the main burner.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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Rustyfender

thats a clever idea flipping the grates and yea i suppose they would be pretty well annealed. Maby what i should do then is reshape them then heat and quench the grilles to temper them back some. 

im gonna take stock of exactly what parts are missing from the one burner this evening. 

thats cool to know that it is actually a a 60 year old stove.

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Majicwrench
Wonder if an aux valve stem or burner from a 413 would work.
Keith
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Rustyfender
i was thinking about that it probably would i have the 413Dat home i think ill give it a try and see if the valve stem fits. ill still want a replacment incase i need both. i cant imagine coleman would have reinvented the wheel where there was no reason to
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BSAGuy
Hello and welcome from NC, Rusty.  Great to have you here on the CCF.

Restoring 426's is a chore and takes lots of elbow grease and patience.  Gunhippie has a great thread on that. 

See here: http://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/post/426a-projectdaily-driverwe-have-ignition-7998657?&trail=50

I redid one two years ago and  it took me 25 hours of labor along with 5 cans of stripper, paint, and primer.  Good luck and keep us posted with pics as you progress.

The flippable grates are a nice feature, indeed.
- Courtenay
Be Prepared
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Eel
Majicwrench wrote:
Wonder if an aux valve stem or burner from a 413 would work.

A 425 tube and secondary burner works there.

EEL Eclectic Lanterns, div.  Doofenshmirtz-EEL Incorporated.

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Gunhippie
I do have the 426 burner parts--I think they are from an A, but will fit your B just fine. Let me know if and what you want.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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Rustyfender
will do not much i can do from work ill start pulling it apart when i get home in 4 and a half hours. its always great having that new project excitment
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Rustyfender

time to play good news bad news:

first the good:

it came apart easy most thigns are looking pretty good after just a wash. still needs paint but i knew what i was getting into.

i got tyhe pump woirking with some lubricating and elbow grease. the leather was dried out and the valve was stuck but i got that all sorted. 

it works. left burner is stuck full on all the time but it did function as a stove.
the bad:

definatly need new grilles these are rusted down to under 1/8" on two of them. (but i already have new really straight good condition ones lined up to buy)

the left most burner is totally hooped. but ill poke around maby gunhippie does have one like he said. currently there is no way to shutoff the left Aux burner.they just had a bolt holding washers together to plug the hole in the end so it at least had mostly controlled fire


the fuel tank pressure release in the cap seems to be hooped as well. i cheated and used a cap off my 421B (i have to corredct myself earlier when i mistakenly called it a 413B i dont know how i got that wrong) but at least a replacment cap is easy to get via old colman parts.

As i recieved the stove:
[image]     [image]   

AAfter giving it a really good blast with my pressure washer:
[image]
  [image] 

[image]

Here is the money shot of the hooped left burner. 

  [image] 

SSo heres my question can the left burner be removed or does the whole assembly have to be replaced. to my eye the assembly looks like its swedged together and there is no way to dismantle it.

 

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BSAGuy
That's a bummer on the left burner.  Those are threaded on, but that may be so rusty that to save it you would need to destroy it.
- Courtenay
Be Prepared
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Rustyfender
which part is threaded? is it the burner cup or the tube. i have ways to releasing it
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Rustyfender

Does anyone know if this aux burner would fit? it looks the same to my eye i have no doubt that i will be able to get the old one off. its just a question of alot of heat and rapid cooling. worst case i can carefully cut it off ive delt with worse

https://www.oldcolemanparts.com/product.php?productid=4302&cat=&page=4

 

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Rustyfender
also the gasket in the gas cap on the tank wont hold pressure. i had to borrow the cap of my 421D to do the test fire. before i started cleaning it. does that cap function as an over pressure release or would i be ok replacing it with a newer style cap. this is just for practical reasons as i do intend to use the stove a fair amount.
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hikerduane
I have what you need, PM me.  Another member needed the tank from  a complete one I was given.  Will take a look at the grate to make sure it is good to go.
Duane
Duane-All seasons, year round backpacker and camper.  So many stoves and lanterns, who's counting.
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hikerduane
Rustyfender wrote:
also the gasket in the gas cap on the tank wont hold pressure. i had to borrow the cap of my 421D to do the test fire. before i started cleaning it. does that cap function as an over pressure release or would i be ok replacing it with a newer style cap. this is just for practical reasons as i do intend to use the stove a fair amount.

Dont see how it can get over pressurized.  New to camping?
Duane
Duane-All seasons, year round backpacker and camper.  So many stoves and lanterns, who's counting.
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Rustyfender
i already have a grate lined up and i wound up just ordering that aux burner bowl and rolling the dice on that one. but if that doesnt work i will let you know.
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Gunhippie
Maybe I'll just send the whole burner manifold... as mentioned above, sometimes those parts just don't want to come apart.

Let me know if you can get the busted end off. If so, it'll save on shipping. Saturate it with a good penetrating oil--NOT WD40! Let it soak for a day or two. If that doesn't do it, use a heat-quench cycle using the penetrating oil for the quench. Do this outside, please!
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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Rustyfender
will do thanks for the advice!
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Rustyfender

plinked away when i got home. i decided that that burner isnt gonna be reused regardless. whether that means a full replacment burner assembly or just a new aux burner so i cut off the outsides of the burner so i could put a socket over the hex head inside. then i heated it up cherry red and quenched it in cold water a few times then rapped on the end with an engineers hammer a few times tossed a wratchet and 7/16 socket on and it came off without too much struggle. the threads look like they are in good enough shape just need some cleaning with a wire wheel.  now i just have to wait on my replacment burner from oldcolmanparts.com.tomorrow im going to pick up some evaporust, paint stripper, and paint.[image]

ps: yes i got the soft jaw on my carpenters vice a tad hot in the process

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Rustyfender

Here is some progress pictures from the last couple days:

Applied some paint stripper. can see it working. (its got methylene chloride i didn't think the new eco stuff would even touch this ancient paint.)

[image] [image] 

Found the stamping from the original steel maker under the paint that was kinda cool to see.
[image] 

Soaked the burner cups in evaporust overnight and it cleaned em right up. center one is a bit worse for wear but it is still serviceable.
[image]  gave the burner assembly the same treatment in evaporust. bucket is only so big so i have to soak it one half at a time. can really tell where the evaporust went up to.  [image]  [image] i guess i forgot to take pictures of the chassy post paint stipper but ill get some tonight. also been working on cleaning the fuel tank as it has some internal rust. i put a bunch of ball bearings in it and shook it making the worst sound. gonna soak it in evaporust here soon after stripping the paint.
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Eel
That's coming along nicely - in future to save some chemical exposure from the paint stripper and some serious $, look up "electrolysis" on this site.  (I think if you were going to use strippers you were correct in using the methylene chloride stripper, and am jealous that you can get the material - in California we're not permitted to expose ourselves to that anymore)
I feel the pain of your soft jaws!

EEL Eclectic Lanterns, div.  Doofenshmirtz-EEL Incorporated.

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Rustyfender
most of the paint strippers here are the eco friendly stuff. just so happens that the small hardware store near me has a house brand stripper that has it.
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BSAGuy
That's looking really good, Bradley.  426's are LOTS of work.  I am still traumatized by the one I did 2 years ago.

Before with three layers of paint (factory + 2):
[image] 

After - before I installed burners and decal:

[F4GU31q]
- Courtenay
Be Prepared
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Gunhippie
Have your cuts healed yet, Courtney?

Mine was traumatic, too.

Before:

[25566160836_dddffdc26c_b]

After:

[25338960213_2297c514e3_b]

In use:

[44384514932_615b5bb133_b]

Worth doing once.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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Rustyfender

First Coats of paint on stuff. i still gotta get the last of the paint off the chassy and then remove some light surface rust.

i think this tank must have sat with some water in it. i put ball bearings in the tank and shook it around for half an hour to knock loose the rust inside the tank. and after doing that i had to solder a few pinhole leaks shut on the end of the tank so i suspect the metal might be a bit thin there but its holding pressure now
[image] 

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Majicwrench
Lots of those tanks around....tanks with rust holes are bad news. There are more. 
Keith
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BSAGuy
I'm with Keith, Bradley.  Holding pressure with water is one thing, but holding it with gas in the tank and the tank (er, possible Molotov cocktail) so close to an open flame is quite another.  I would find another tank, for sure.  I don't think you want to lose your eyebrows or other facial or body features.
- Courtenay
Be Prepared
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Gunhippie
Keep in mind that the tank is at waist-level when you're standing at the stove. I tend to keep some fairly valuable stuff at or near waist-level.

I was using a stove of mine once. I'd dunk-tested the tank and it passed. I'd run at least one tankful of fuel through it with no problems. I felt a cold, wet sensation in my crotchal area, and looking down, observed a thin stream of gasoline directed right at the jewels. You should have seen how fast I got clear of that burning stove!
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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Rustyfender
hahah yea i bet. Bgred has a tank for me that im going to buy. this one is red so ill repaint it red since i already have some of the red paint in stock from my 421 resto
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Rustyfender
does anyone have suggestions for how to refinish the grille i got. its not too rusty im thinking wire brush and then maby some bbq paint.
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BSAGuy
I just use electrolysis on my grills and call it a day.  I don't like the painted silver look, nor do I like the idea of having some chemicals (the paint) oxidizing all around my food, but that's just me.

If you get the grills100% rust free and can find someone to nickle plate them for not too much cash, that's the way to go..
- Courtenay
Be Prepared
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Rustyfender
i can talk to the guys at caribou chrome. my dad sent alot of work their way when i has the shop forman. maby they can include em with anouther job.
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BSAGuy
That's exactly how I got mine done.  A friend works at a machine shop where they get a lot of stuff plated.  He just ran my 413 grill in with some other pieces and presto! Nickled grill.
- Courtenay
Be Prepared
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Gunhippie
Nickel would be cool, but VHT 2,000F flat silver works quite well, too.

A nice thing about the split grate on the 426s is that you can flip the two rates so the heat-worn parts are on the outside and new steel over the main burner.  found I could pretty much beat all the warps out of mine with a mid-size ball-peen hammer. That metal has been very well annealed by years of heat.

Another vote for electrolysis!
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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Rustyfender
thanks gunhippie. the grates i got from BSAGuy are actaully very straight to begin with so only very minor tweeking would be needed to get them perfect but they are good enough that im considering leaving them as is and not risking makeing them worse lol ill get a picture when i get home. i already have some silver VHT header paint for the burners. its good to 2000F so i might still just use that.
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Rustyfender
little bit more progress: paint on the underside of the burner cuts, the burner caps and the burner assembly.

[image]

  [image]  [image]
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BSAGuy
Lookin' good.  Keep us posted.
- Courtenay
Be Prepared
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Rustyfender

[image]  [image]  [image]  [image] 

little more progress. tack coat of primer on the wind flaps and second coat of primer on the lid.

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Rustyfender
[image]  [image] stripped the supporting bar with a wire wheel on the grinder. and primed it with 2000*F primer.i was thinking of using the same silver header paint as the burner assembly as the paint was quite burned on the support when i got the stove. but im thinking the simple high temp black bbq paint might do as well and look better than silver for the support. thoughts?
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Chucker
It's looking good.  LOTS of work but like Timm said earlier, you should do at least one. It's a big accomplishment and time invested doing that. 
Chuck
"Stop being angry, and forget about getting back at people; do not worry -- it only causes harm." Ps. 37:8
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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BSAGuy
Definitely coming along.  Nice pics.  I would do the bar in either green, like original, or black.
- Courtenay
Be Prepared
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Rustyfender
yea im thinking black will be the best option i dont belive i can get high temp green that will match the other green i have for the case. and i can get high temp clear to go over the high temp black. shoudl be good enough i doubt i need the 2000 degree paint for that part
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Chucker
No  you won't need the 2000 deg. F flame proof stuff - except for possibly the grate and burners. One can use the 1200 deg. F high temp silver for all those hot parts but it just won't last as long, IMO. 
Chuck
"Stop being angry, and forget about getting back at people; do not worry -- it only causes harm." Ps. 37:8
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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Rustyfender
progress has been slow latly while im working on putting a concrete floor in my shop but here's some more pictures for ya

[image]  [image] 
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Rustyfender
still alot more to do i just wanted to get some colour down without buying a ton of aerosol cans. a choice i kinda regret now but oh well.
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Chucker
You are a mile and a half further down this road than when you started. Tremclad is hard to find around us but I've had good success with it. Keep going. 
Chuck
"Stop being angry, and forget about getting back at people; do not worry -- it only causes harm." Ps. 37:8
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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