Here is a quick write up on how I removed and repaired my 220B pump tube.
The 220B has a brass fount and pump tube which is cold soldered in.
The steps depicted in this thread is what I did to repair the pump tube
Other methods and procedures are possible, please chime in if you like.
I got a 220B and cleaned it all up. It fired up right away bit would not stay pressureized.
Upon further investigation the Check Valve as leaking.
When I tried to take the CV out, the socket the CV screws into broke free from the back of the pump tube.
The only real fix is to remove the pump tube and solder it back on.
Large Propane torch
Smaller “precision” torch
Solder “Bernzomatic Metalwork”, Silver bearing
Flux Kester SP-30. (I was also told Stay-Clean® Liquid Flux by HARRIS PRODUCTS gives better results and is better suited for brass)
Wire Wheel (and drill)
Channel lock pliers\
Small metal file
6”long x 1/4” bolt.
3” long x 1/4” bolt.
2- 1/4” nuts
2- 1/4” washers
2” long x 1-1/2” dia steel tube
Thin & Long screw driver
Pie pan or shallow disposable dish
Strip of wood. (1”W x 16”L x 3/4”T)
Strip the lantern down, remove all fuel…. good idea to flush the fount out.
The key to the removal is to keep the top bung and button seal cool. Wrapping the top with wet rags and keeping the bottom submerged in water is preferred.
Secure lantern to a work bench. (don’t clamp it down to hard or you will dent the top.
Place the bottom in the pie pan and use the wood strip to hold the fount. The fount will get hot to the touch.
(please ignore the ugly green “stand in” fount. I didn’t take pictures of this step.)
Take the pump shaft apart. You will need the threaded cap to protect the threads of the pump tube when you start reefing on the tube.
This is the tricky and most delicate part
With the precision torch heat the inside of the pump tube around the front, where it is soldered in place.
This will take a few minutes to get it hot enough to melt the solder.
Heat the outside of the pump tube around the fount… this will take a minutes or so as well.
Quickly screw on the threaded pump cap.
Add more heat……
Using the channel lock pliers, start trying the twist the pump tube… keep the heat on…. circling the outside of the pump tube.
The pump tube should eventually break free and spin. It won’t come out yet and DON’T spin it more that 180deg. You could damage the air tube.
This is a nerve racking part…..
Once you have melted most of the solder off between the fount and pump tube and the tube spins freely, the next step is to pull it out.
I made a simple “puller” … like a gear puller.
The puller is made up of a small piece of 2” long x 1-1/2” dia steel tube, piece of metal flat bar with a hole in the middle and a 3” x 1/4” bolt.
Using the threaded pump cap, install the 3”x 1/4” bolt through it… using 2 flat washers on the back side of the threaded pump cap for extra strength.
Also, to not mark up the fount too much, soften/round one end of the 2” long x 1-1/2” dia steel tube with a file and emery cloth.
This tube needs to fit over the pump tube and push against the fount.
Screw on the threaded pump tube cap very tightly.
Install the 2” tube, flat bar and 1/4” nut.
Using a bit of lube between the flat bar and the nut, start tightening the nut. “This applies a pulling force"
The tube should break free but it may not come out since the air tube is preventing that. The air tube needs to be pushed down. Using a skinny screw driver, reach in through the filler hole and force the air tube down.. and pull on the pump tube. This can be a little tricky.. take your time.
[My back cap with the air tube was already off so my tube just came out.]
I guess you could take a brass drift and just hit the CV socket out at this point. It should just pop out.
Note that there wasn't much solder on the CV socket from the factory!
There is also a larger ring that was soldering in from the inside. I did not re-use this ring. I could not figure out how to solder it in front he outside.
The pump tube has 2 small threaded collars on it. Using some heat and the channel locks, you should be able to unscrew both of them.
Once they are off, clean them down to the brass using the wire wheel and emery cloth.
Clean the Pump tube and the back CV socket well.
Clamp the tube in a vice, bush on some flux and using the larger torch, solder in the CV socket. This is a big chunk of brass and will act like a heat sink.
It needs to get hot in order of the solder to flow. If the solder doesn’t flow and just pools on top, it’s not hot enough.
Note, the air tube may fall over but don’t pull it out! Once the CV socket is soldered in, you can heat up the air tube and reposition it.
This next mod is crucial to getting the pump tube back in!
You need to make a little clearance groove for the air tube. Gently file the lip of the joint between the CV Socket and the pump tube.
You need to make a groove (or flatten it) for the air tube to lay into. The air tube needs to lay flat along the pump tube in order for it to slide back into the font.
Refer to the area circled in red.
Make sure there is proper air flow through the pump tube and air tube.
Also make sure the air tube is firmly in place and has a bit of extra solder at it’s base. (you will be bending it around)
Clean out/file the remaining old solder from the inside lip of the fount.
Screw on one of the treaded collars all the way. Make it tight. Flux it up and solder it in place; back side only!
Get some nice solder flow on it. Add a little extra solder. I placed it in a block of wood so no solder would get on the threads.
Test fit in the fount. It should be a very tight fit. If not… gently massage the area.
On the leading edge of the pump tube, mark which way it up of the air tube. This is crucial. The air tube needs to be installed UP.
Make sure you are aware of the position of the air tube… double check before soldering!
Once test fitting is all done. Install the 6” bolt through the threaded cap. Thread the cap onto the pump tube.
Insert the pump tube. Use a little lube to help the air tube slide in. It will be tight.
Using the tie wire, make a loop on the end, fish it in the fount, hook the air tube and pull it up into place. It needs to be higher than the filler opening.
I made a little holding fixture to hold the pump tube in place while I soldered. I’m not sure how else you can hold it firmly in place.
Hang the fount down from a vice or a work bench; the Pump Tube needs to be perfectly vertical.
Place cold wet rags around the base and top bung of the fount.
Flux it up. It’s okay to use lots.
You will need a steady hand and patience for this next step….
Using the precision torch heat up the area. It needs to get hot. (FWIW, It appeared to me that the nickel plating can take the localized heat.)
Add a tiny bit of solder. If it doesn’t flow right into the joint, its not hot enough.
Once it starts flowing, Do a small section at a time walking around the pump tube. Use the solder sparingly. You can always go back.
Make sure it flows and it’s a smooth transition.
Be careful not the get any extra solder on the threads.
Clean the area and/or file away any extra solder.
Shake the fount. Some extra solder may have dripped off. Shake it out and/or pull it out with some needle nose pliers.
That’s it! lol
This isn’t the hardest thing I’ve done… but it wasn’t easy either.
If you look close you can tell it's not factory but it works and from a distance, you can't even tell.
If you have never soldered before I recommend practicing on some brass or copper first.
The hardest thing to learn is to recognize when and how hot the area needs to be to make the solder flow.
Good Luck, Mike