200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

zoomkat
I'm in the process of getting a 3/81 220K lantern working. It has only used a couple of times when bought new and has been in storage in its box since. When I tried to fire it up, only one mantle burned. I found the burner tube for the other mantle was completely stopped up. I've managed to flush/blow/burn most of the blockage out (suspect dirt dauber or spider nest), but it seems some rust/crud continues to get trapped on that burner screen causing low fuel/air flow to that mantle. What I would like to know is it practical to remove/replace the screens in the burners to get access to the burner tubes for cleaning? If not, are the burner heads removable from the burner tubes, and are the burner tubes removable from the round top burner manifold? I think the screen removal/replace might be the easiest access for burner tube cleaning, but I haven't seen instructions on this specific operation. I've got some ideas, but want to avoid going from bad to worse per Murphy's law. Thanks for any info!
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Bill
Not sure about the K model, but I have removed burner tubes and burner caps. Often, they’re only finger tight and can be removed without tools. If you have to use a pliers, wrap the tube or cap with some leather first. I cut my own screens out of stainless steel mesh—brass mesh didn’t take the heat when I tried it.
Bill Sheehy, aka Merlotrin P.M.      ICCC #1390      eBay handle: wtspe
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #24  /  Mil-Spec Ops, Bernz-o-Matic, and Sears Syndicates #58
Looking for birthday lanterns dated 4/33, 9/33 & 7/86

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Gand28
Try some pouring some hydrogen peroxide in the burner assembly first and flush the residue out with flow in through the bad burner cap. I’m not sure you can get that steel assembly apart without damage.
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
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zoomkat
Done! Screens carefully removed, rust and scale removed from inside the burner tubes, and screens carefully reinstalled. Up and running and looking good. I've been using the 10 cm "butterfly" 10 for $2 ebay mantels just for testing to save $$$, but after getting their positioning tweaked in for the test run, I think I like the look, kind of like the Aladdin Max Bright #200.  
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BILL HARPER
How did you get the screens out. the screen caps seem to be permanent. My 220k has a clean burner but it isn't as bright as others like there is an air problem. I put another 220K burner on it and it burns good. I suspect screens but they look fine and its a low hour lantern.
WILLIAM HARPER
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salukispeed
My 220K had removable tubes and caps like my earlier 220 ones but they were rusted and seized terribly but with a bunch of heat and quench and Kroil I got them apart. The mixing chamber was the scary part as the crimps were not so solid
Bob
ICCC 1868
Perfection appreciation #10
Milspec 65252
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zoomkat
BILL HARPER wrote:
How did you get the screens out. the screen caps seem to be permanent. My 220k has a clean burner but it isn't as bright as others like there is an air problem. I put another 220K burner on it and it burns good. I suspect screens but they look fine and its a low hour lantern.


Just getting caught back up, you can *carefully* pick the screens out without damaging them. I used a combination of the plastic handled picks and a large safety pin with the tip bent 90 deg. as a thinner pick to hook and pull. You want to be careful that you don't enlarge the holes in the screens or pull out one of the edge wires. Doing so could impact the screen's ability to act as a flame arrestor. You can carefully push the screens back in. I used a thin piece of wire (bread twist tie with covering burned off) looped thru the middle of the screen so I could pull the screen back downward concave after they were reinstalled by pushing them back in, then slip the wire out. If you remove the screens, then removing loose rust and air blocking spider webs and such in the tubes is easy.  
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