200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.
Hi all,

Here's my latest rebuild project: a Canadian 639 that I acquired from Roland this past summer. I did this rebuild on our canadian Thanksgiving day. While working on this lantern, I was thinking about all the things that I am thankful for, one of which is my health, which got me thinking about some of the forum members here who are not in good health, specifically Bubba. So, I rebuilt this lantern with Bubba in mind.

Without further adieu, let's get started...

A closeup of the lantern:

It is in OK shape, there is some wrinkling to the paint, it is dirty and needs a good clean up. While at Rolands, we tested it without mantles and it did work fine. The vent was slightly bent, but we carefully straightened it out with a block of wood.


Start by removing the bail. To do so, grasp both sides of the bail where it goes into the vent and pull out. The bail just pops right out.

Lift off the vent

As this is a Canadian lantern, all the nuts are metric. Use an 11mm wrench to remove the nut securing the burner frame.

Nut removed

Lift off the burner frame

Frame removed

Use a 13mm wrench to remove the generator jam nut. Make sure the tip cleaner is in the up position, it will make the next step easier.

Unhook the pricker and remove the generator

Remove the collar by gently pulling the collar forward, and lifting it over the valve assembly

Collar removed

Remove the fuel cap

Use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the pump retaining clip. Grasp the clip on one side, gently pull the clip out of the hole and remove the clip.

Pull out the pump

Unscrew and remove the air stem

Remove the screw holding the valve wheel

Remove the valve wheel, just pull it gently off.

The valve assembly is usually screwed in tight, and then locked in place with some kind of lock tight/sealer. I clamp the valve in a vise, protecting the valve with a thick rag, then rotate the fount to loosen it.

Unscrew the valve from the fount.

Closeup of the valve assembly. The kerosene lanterns have the fuel pickup tube soldered to the valve body, and it is not removable.

Remove the check valve. I absolutely love this tool!

Check valve removed

Remove the valve packing jam nut. I didn't replace the valve packing on this lantern, (I've got to order some more from OCP), but I wanted to clean up the shaft, so off it came. Use a 13mm wrench to remove the jam nut.

The lantern is now completely disassembled.

Time to start cleaning and polishing all the parts. I put the burner frame into a hot toilet bowl cleaner bath and the brass parts in a hot citric acid bath for about 20 minutes, then scrub with steel wool.

Washed and dried the vent. It is in very good condition, just one little ding on the top. There was some dried grease and paint on it, plus it looks like the rim touched some plastic while it was hot, there was some stubborn black gunk on the edge that took a razor blade to clean off.

The collar was dirty and covered with soot, so I used a little Mother's Aluminum Mag polish on it

Much better now!

The fount was a little dull, so I buffed it by hand with some Turtle Wax Polishing compound. It removes the surface rust and shines up the paint.

Bottom of the fount, Made In Canada, 1-74. Oh, what's that scratched into the paint?

Hmmm, for some reason, someone scratched the initials C.P.R into the bottom of the fount. Coincidence? I have no idea....

Fount all buffed up

The valve wheel was scorched on the lantern, so I bought a used one from OCP for it. It's not quite the right style, the scorched one is a different kind of plastic, and is hollowed out on the back.

On to the fuel cap. I've gotten into the habit of replacing the gaskets on all the lanterns I work on.

Use a sharp knife to cut some slots into the old gasket, then chip the pieces out.

I obtained these gaskets from Basnett Hardware Company. Great product. I checked first, OCP doesn't stock these. Gasket installed.

All the parts cleaned up and ready for reassembly!!

I start reassembly with the valve assembly. I put some blue thread sealer on the threads before screwing it into the fount. It doesn't take much.

Screw the valve into the fount. Make sure you tighten it far enough down so the valve sits in the center of the hole in the collar. Looking down from the top of the lantern, the tip cleaner goes to 12 o'clock, pump shaft to 3 o'clock, valve at 6 o'clock, and the fuel cap at 9 o'clock.

Turn the tip cleaner to the UP position, then hook the pricker into the eccentric block.

Tighten the jam nut with the 13mm wrench.

Put the pre heat cup over the hole where the generator passes through the burner frame. This way, as you put the burner frame in place, the pre heat cup will be put onto the generator.

Lower the burner frame onto the lantern.

As I was putting the burner frame in place, I noticed a bug sticking out!!

This bug was long dead, but goes to show that even with scrub brushed and compressed air, I didn't quite get all the junk out of the air tubes. A little more elbow grease soon rectified that problem.

Burner frame installed.

Replace the nut and tighten with an 11mm wrench.

Install the check valve. Did I mention how much I LOVE this tool???

Install the air stem and pump. Make sure to grease up the pump leather with Neats Foot oil. I was lucky, this pump leather was in really good shape.

Reinstall the retainer clip

Replace the valve wheel and directions disk

Reinstall the screw

Time to add some kerosene. I filled up the fount about 1/3 full. No, I'm not going to light it just yet, I have to make sure that the valve jam nut is not leaking.

I'm thinking about doing a How-To on replacing a valve stem packing and posting that separately in the How-To section of the forum. For now, here's the details.

Pump up the lantern about 5 strokes, while checking here for fuel. If you see fuel starting to come out here, tighten the jam nut about a 1/2 turn, keep doing this until no more fuel is seen. Now, add 10 more strokes, and check again for a fuel leak. If there's fuel, tighten about a 1/4 turn until no more fuel leaks out. Now add 25 strokes and check again for fuel. If you see fuel still, tighten a 1/4 turn again. I do this until there's about 100 strokes of pressure in the fount. Once I don't see any fuel leaking, I let it sit for about 20 minutes and then check again for fuel. Take your time with this step, you don't want a fuel leak here while the lantern is lit!!!

Replace the fuel cap

I dug out some of my Made In Canada #1111 silk lights for this lantern.

Tied one on

Pre-burn in the mantle first, before you attempt to light the lantern.

Fill the pre heater cup about 2/3 with alcohol

At this point I lit the alcohol, let it burn for a while, and was rewarded with an orange glow.

Now, for all you sharp eyed guys, tell me what is wrong with the next picture:

If you look closely at the collar, fuel cap, side of the fount, and the table, you'll see the telltale signs of a fuel leak!!

I IMMEDIATELY turned off the lantern, and spent the next 30 minutes double checking everything. Turns out, I flooded the lantern while lighting it, excess fuel was spurting out of the top of the generator and spilling down the air tubes of the burner frame. Must be a little more careful next time.

Checked out, vent installed, and burning nicely!!

Bubba, this one's burning for you:


Tools used in this rebuild:

11mm wrench
13mm wrench
flat blade screw driver
needle nose pliers
check valve tool
dental pick

Cleaning materials used:

Citric acid
Toilet bowl cleaner
Mother's Aluminum polish
Turtle wax polishing compound
steel wool

New parts installed:

1x fuel cap gasket
1x globe
-- Shawn K
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