200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

Project 635B721, a.k.a. 635B (Leacock)

In this installment, we'll take a look at another one of the relatively rare Coleman products - the model 635B721 lantern. This lantern was made by Coleman exclusively for the Leacock Coleman Center. They are an authorized Coleman dealer & service center located in Ronks, PA - which primarily serves the Amish population of the area. The lantern was built to the specification of Leacock (and, presumably, their Amish customers).

I have read some accounts which say that just 1500 of these were made. I have seen other info which says that only 500 were made. I am not sure which is correct, but, given the number (and various models) of lanterns that were made by Coleman over the years, I would say that either figure would entitle this lantern to be called rare.

All examples of this lantern that I've seen, taking into account my own lantern, plus others that I've seen on eBay, as well as those reported on our own CCF (which numbers 4 or 5 total) were manufactured in January 1996 (date code  01   96). I don't know if Coleman only made one run of these in that one month or what. If anyone has knowledge of one of these produced in any other month, please let us know.

Aside from the Leacock labelled collar, another thing that makes these lanterns unique is that the valve is the old style conventional type, with a needle valve shut-off, and a separate tip cleaner lever. Also, the tip cleaner works in a reverse manner - that is, the lever must be up to run the lantern, instead of down, like all other lanterns with this type of valve.

Because of the conventional valve, this lantern also uses a different fount from the other 635B models that were produced. The valve outlet (bung) is centered at the top of the fount, where the other models, using Schrader valves, have it offset, and use a separate center bolt to secure the burner frame to the fount.

OK, now that I've given some background on this lantern, we'll get into it. First, I'll show you some pics of how I received it. It was partially disassembled, packed & shipped. Never had this happen before.





As you can see, the seller included a brand new vent, in addition to the old, pitted one. I'll use it for display.


OK, here we go. We'll start with the burner. Remove the burner tube screw.


On this one, the tube was quite stuck in the burner. I used a punch to gently tap around the top of the burner cap, to loosen the tube.



Removing the tube,


Unscrew the cap from the tube.


Here is the burner assembly completely disassembled.


Next, we will loosen & remove the valve knob screw...


...and the knob with direction disc.


Now, to the pump. I couldn't budge the cap by hand, so I used my trusty strap wrench for assistance.


This has the neoprene cup, which is incorrect, according to the parts list. A leather cup will be installed.


Unscrew the air stem.


Removing the valve is straightforward. Gently place the valve in a vice and evenly twist the fount to unscrew the valve. Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it, and record this. Withdraw the valve.


Here is the valve assembly with the F/A tube disassembled. You can see that this is an old style valve. At this point (1  96), Coleman hadn't made an old style valved lantern in over 12 years. They were (and are) all Schrader valves. This is the last and latest conventional valve lantern, and it will most likely be the last lantern ever to carry such a valve.


Here we see that, as I said above, the tip cleaning lever works in a reverse manner. Turning the lever up moves the eccentric block down, while turning the lever down moves the block up.


Here are all the parts - cleaned, checked and ready for reassembly. A summary of the cleaning process:

1) All brass parts went into a lemon juice bath and scrubbed with an old toothbrush (soak time dependent on need). Then, rinsed thoroughly with hot water, dried, then polished lightly with 0000 steel wool. All fuel passageways were sprayed with Gumout (carb cleaner).

2) Steel parts went into a separate lemon juice soak. Rinsed & dried. Used steel wool and dremel tool brushes as needed, to remove rust & carbon.

3) Collar  - This appears to be aluminum with some type of clear coating and black ink lettering. Very lightly washed with soap & water and dried. Then, using 0000 steel wool as well as Q-Tips & Mothers, very lightly (using almost imperceptible pressure) cleaned and polished out the areas of corrosion that had set in. Then washed again. During this time I had to carefully work around the lettering on the collar, since I am convinced that this would come off with the slightest wipe of liquid. This took me a very long time for a moderate improvement. Very tedious. At least I was able to get the corrosion out. I think I could have obtained an even better result, were I to apply a new clear coat after the job. Unfortunately, I was afraid to dissolve the ink with the clear coat. I've had that happen before. It's fine, if you can obtain a replacement item, but with this, I wasn't willing to risk it. Overall, though, it looks pretty darned good.

4) Fount - This was very clean on the inside, so I just rinsed it out with Coleman Fuel and dumped it out. On the outside, I washed with dish soap & water, rinsed with hot water and dried. There were some spots where the paint had chipped and had some light surface rust, so I went over those areas with a mixture of rubbing compound & Formula 409, this both cleaned the rust off and blended the edges of the paint to make the chipping softer and far less noticeable. I then waxed the entire fount. Looks really good, and with original paint.


We will now assemble the valve. First, the F/A rod spring looks slightly compressed, in my opinion, so I stretched it a small amount.



Place the spring onto the F/A rod...


...and insert the rod into the F/A tube.


Screw the F/A tube into the valve body and snug it tight.


Here is the assembled valve. You'll note that I haven't touched either the valve packing or the tip cleaner lever. The look and feel of these gave me the impression that they were in great shape, and didn't require service. If I am wrong, I can always service them later.


A little Permatex #2 on the valve threads, and into the fount it goes. Tighten it the same number of turns that you counted upon earlier removal.



Let's move on to the burner. First, screw the burner cap onto the burner tube and tighten hard by hand.


Insert the tube into the burner, aligning the holes as shown.


Insert and tighten the burner tube screw,



The assembled burner.


Turn the tip cleaning lever down.


Insert the cleaning needle of the generator into the eccentric block, and lower the generator to the valve.

Install and tighten the jamb nut.



Install the collar.


Lower the burner assembly onto the valve and collar, being certain that the end of the generator enters its port in the burner.


Install and tighten the center nut.


Place the knob on the valve stem.


Now, the direction disc...


...and the screw.


OK, back to the pump.


Remove the clip, working it off with needlenose pliers.


Lift off the cup & retainer.

After wiping everything clean, we first replace the retainer...


...now, the new leather cup.


Seat the clip on the pump shaft.


Oil it up...


...re-install the air stem...

...and carefully install the pump.



We're in the home stretch now.


Tie on a #11 (or 111 or 1111) mantle.


Trim the string ends.


Burn it off.


Install the heat shield.


Replace the globe...


...the vent...


...and the bail. Assembly complete.





Another Sunshine of the Night!




Nicely feddled, i have one of these as well.
Always looking for 237 parts, new, used, or broken.....Michael..theDude ICCC #1423
Thanks Bob. Looks great!
“All of us are creatures of a day; the rememberer and the remembered alike.”    

Coleman Blues #67.   ICCC #1242.   Searching for 5-1940. 6-36.
I had one and gladly gifted it on to another collector who deserved it.  Mine started really rough, but once settled it it ran very well. 
ICCC #1224

THE Ohio Boys University

Well done Bob.
Tommy P.M. ICCC #1250 With confidence in our armed forces, with the unbounding determination of our people, we will gain the inevitable triumph -- so help us God.   
FDR Dec.8th 1941
Wow, great write up!  Thanks

I have one of these somewhere.  (Thanks Dan)

#1 in the 223B club
Gatlinburg, TN

By the way,  Bob graciously walked me through my first lantern rebuild via email many years ago.  I saw one of his tutorials and had many questions.  he quickly provided answers to everything and encouraged me to try out my own project.  It turned out great.
ICCC #1224

THE Ohio Boys University

Great detailed write-up and pictorial! Thanks for taking the time to do this.


Flammable liquids, open flame, what could go wrong?
Well saved!
Great tutorial and nice cleanup!!  Noticed a tab on the burner assembly air tube nearest to the genny to retain a preheat cup.  Is there a kero version or is this same burner assembly used on another lantern model, possibly 639?
"... at evening time, it shall be light." Zechariah 14:7

Slant Saver #05 Milspec Ops 0045
Quicklite Crew #27
Perfection Heater Collectors #4
Corning Clunker
Great write up! I bought one of these this summer, and it runs great once it warms up a tad. 
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #7657
looking for 2/81,8/06,5/10,10/13,11/16 b-days and hollow wire #27 mounts
Kent Baumann
Very nice, Bob; I live about half an hour from Leacock Coleman.
007AJJ_Paul_Schneider_001 - Copy.jpg 
ICCC #1012
logoballistol logo 1a.png

Thanks guys! Glad you like it.

Some direct replies:

Frank - mine also seems to "flame up" a bit when starting. I think that this might be characteristic of this model. While servicing it, it seemed to me that the F/A tube on this is considerably thinner (smaller diameter) than the older lanterns. Keep in mind that this was just an impression - I didn't have another valve handy, for comparison. However, if I'm correct, then perhaps it doesn't pass quite enough air during the instant-lite phase (1/4 turn open) to support good lean & clean combustion. I believe this to be a distinct possibility.

Mike - that tab is absolutely for retention of a preheater cup. This same burner assembly was used on all 635B lanterns, and all 639B & C (kerosene) lanterns.

Steve - if you ever have occasion to stop by Leacock, perhaps you could get whatever official history and information that exists about this lantern, firsthand! If you ever do, please let me know anything you find out. BTW - your above picture & quote, what is that from?

BobA wrote:

Steve - if you ever have occasion to stop by Leacock, perhaps you could get whatever official history and information that exists about this lantern, firsthand! If you ever do, please let me know anything you find out. BTW - your above picture & quote, what is that from?


Hello again, Bob, I can certainly stop in there sometime and have a talk with them;  I am quite sure I can find someone who knows about the lantern.  Several years ago, they moved into a much larger, new facility that is quite nice, but the old place was interesting, too.  There was a back room in the rear of the showroom that sometimes had an open door, and that room was where they assembled the lamps.  There were boxes of parts everywhere, and it made me think of what the Coleman factory must have looked like years ago.
The picture and quote seemed to be quite relevant to your detailed post, and is from the movie "The Assassination of Jesse James By The Coward Robert Ford" (2007).  The character shown is Dick Liddil, who uttered that very quote in a scene at the beginning of the movie.
ICCC #1012
logoballistol logo 1a.png

Excellent photo essay, Bob.

The only tip/trick I'll add is that if you load the air stem into the pump shaft first, then install the pump in the pump tube, it's an easier fit.

Assume this will move to the How-to section soon!
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
I bought mine straight out of the very room Gasman steve is referring to. Word i got directly from Leacock was 1500.
Always looking for 237 parts, new, used, or broken.....Michael..theDude ICCC #1423
Very interesting, and thank you for the nice write-up with great pics...!


Here Comes Sunshine
My name is Dave, and I'm in Rhode Island.
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate member #0207
Interesting that the tip cleaner has to be up to run.  They must have used a stove part.
Dennis the Peasant

ICCC Member #1337 (Thanks Dean!)
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0086

"One of the sanest, surest, and most generous joys of life comes from being happy over the good fortune of others."
-R.A. Heinlein-
Gand28 wrote:
The only tip/trick I'll add is that if you load the air stem into the pump shaft first, then install the pump in the pump tube, it's an easier fit.


After all these years, I've never even thought of doing it this way. I'll have to give it a shot next time, to see how I like it.


dpatten wrote:
Interesting that the tip cleaner has to be up to run.  They must have used a stove part.

It is my opinion that this is exactly what they did. Doing some limited comparison & measurements of the lever and nut on this lantern and on a 425 stove (both installed, of course) makes me believe that they are exactly the same thing. This makes sense if you think about it. At the time, all other Coleman lanterns used a Schrader valve setup (and had for the previous 12 years). The only lever of that type that was in production at that time, was the stove lighting stem (#412-3531), which had the lever pointing in the opposite direction with respect to the eccentric end. It was probably much easier, faster & cheaper to print up a little sticker for the fount than to manufacture a limited number of "correct" stems.

Yes i heard the "it was a mistake " story. Id say more likely Leacock requested a lantern not in production, id say they were built using left over parts and the tip cleaner came up short. A simple call from Coleman to Leacock would fix that, "take it or leave it, we'll put a sticker on it"
Always looking for 237 parts, new, used, or broken.....Michael..theDude ICCC #1423

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