200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.
BobA
Project 459


In this project, we will go through the Coleman Model 459-499 stove. Made from late 1977 - early 1978, this is probably one of the rarest of the Coleman stoves. More information is available on my other post, 459 - Theory of Operation.

I just want to point out that, on this stove, because of its rarity, I've decided to keep as much of the original finish as possible. This stove was well-used, and had a good amount of spillage into it which was not cleaned and, therefore, turned to rust. It also had some dried duct tape residue in various places. If this were any other "suitcase" stove, I would have at least, attempted a touch-up, or perhaps even stripped it down for a re-paint! However, on this one, I just removed the rust and cleaned it up as best I could, while keeping it original. So, the end result may not be as pretty, but it is honestly original!

Here are some photos of the stove, as I received it.

IMG_0000A.jpg 
IMG_0000B.jpg 

IMG_0000C.jpg 

IMG_0000D.jpg 


The first step is to remove the lid. Do this by depressing one of the hinges toward the center, until it clears the hole in the case. Then lift out the lid.

IMG_0001.jpg 

IMG_0002.jpg 


To remove the grate, work out one of the clips (incredibly tough & tedious job), and lift out the grate. Then slide the grate out of the other clip & remove.

IMG_0003.jpg 

Now, remove the screw & clip holding the manifold to the back of the case.

IMG_0004.jpg 


From the bottom of the case, remove the two (2) pal nuts holding the manifold to the drip tray. Hold the manifold in place until removal, since it will want to fall out if you move the case.

IMG_0005.jpg 

IMG_0006.jpg 

Turn the auxiliary burner valve, so that it aligns with the slot in the case, as shown.

IMG_0007.jpg 


Lift the entire manifold assembly out of the case.

IMG_0010.jpg 


Remove the two (2) screws on both sides of the case (4 total), securing the drip tray.

IMG_0011.jpg 
IMG_0012.jpg 

IMG_0013.jpg 
IMG_0014.jpg 


Lift out the drip tray.

IMG_0015.jpg 


Now, we dismantle the burners. Starting with the main burner, remove the screw that holds the burner together.

IMG_0016.jpg 

IMG_0017.jpg 

Lift off the burner cap.

IMG_0018.jpg 


Remove the rings...

IMG_0019.jpg 


...and the baffle plate.

IMG_0020.jpg 

Removing the burner bowl completes the disassembly of the main buner.

IMG_0021.jpg 

We do the same thing for the auxiliary burner. The only difference is that this burner does not have a baffle plate.

IMG_0022.jpg 
IMG_0023.jpg 

IMG_0024.jpg 
IMG_0025.jpg 
IMG_0026.jpg 

Here are all the burner parts, ready for cleaning.

IMG_0027.jpg 

After cleaning the parts, it's time for re-assembly. Here is the manifold.

IMG_0028.jpg 


We'll start with the auxiliary burner. Place the burner bowl on the burner.

IMG_0029.jpg 
IMG_0030.jpg 


Lay on a flat ring...

IMG_0031.jpg 

...followed by a wavy ring.

IMG_0033.jpg 


Continue to alternate rings, ending with a flat ring. This burner has 7 rings - 4 flat, and 3 wavy rings.

IMG_0034.jpg 

Now place the cap on top of the rings.

IMG_0035.jpg 


Insert the screw, and turn down finger tight.

IMG_0036.jpg 

Using your fingers, center the rings vertically.

IMG_0037.jpg 


Now tighten the screw snugly.

IMG_0038.jpg 
Re-check the rings to see that they are centered. If not, loosen screw and repeat.


The completed auxiliary burner.

IMG_0039.jpg 


Place the burner bowl on the main burner.

IMG_0040.jpg 


Now, install the baffle plate.

IMG_0041.jpg 


Install a wavy ring. Note that the baffle acts as the first flat ring - this is why we start with a wavy ring.

IMG_0043.jpg 


Install a flat ring.

IMG_0044.jpg 


Continue to alternate rings, ending with a flat ring. This burner has 6 rings - 3 flat, 3 wavy (not counting the baffle).

IMG_0045.jpg 

Install the burner cap.

IMG_0046.jpg 

Install the screw, center the rings, and tighten, as you did before.

IMG_0047.jpg 

IMG_0048.jpg 

IMG_0049.jpg 

The completed burner assembly.

IMG_0050.jpg 


Now we move to the most interesting part of this stove - the tank & valve.

IMG_0667.jpg 
IMG_0668.jpg 

IMG_0669.jpg 

IMG_0671.jpg 


First, we remove the pump. Straightforward stuff.

IMG_0677.jpg 

IMG_0678.jpg 

Since I didn't want to gouge up the generator, I first applied friction tape, then used leather to grip and loosen the generator, as shown. Loosen only at this time. Do not remove.

IMG_0681.jpg 

IMG_0682.jpg 


To remove the knob, note that there is a clip behind the knob that must be depressed. Depress it with a small screwdriver, and work the knob off the valve stem.

IMG_0687.jpg 
IMG_0689.jpg 

IMG_0690.jpg 


At this point, place the valve body in a vice and hold snugly. Twist the tank evenly to loosen it from the valve. Now remove from the vice and unscrew the valve from the tank, counting the number of turns until removal. You will need that count when you re-install the valve.

IMG_0692.jpg 

IMG_0693.jpg 


The valve & generator, ready for disassembly.

IMG_0694.jpg 


You might wonder why I did not remove the generator before removing the valve from the tank. The reason for this is that, according the the stove instructions (particularly the parts list & exploded diagram), the valve stem and the needle are not separate, but are one part! At least, it gives the impression that they are one part. I found out after disassembly that this is not the case, and the needle does unscrew from the valve stem - like any other stove. But, I didn't know this at the time, so I thought it best to keep the needle well protected in the generator during disassembly, since I probably won't ever find another one!

So, put the valve body in a vice.

IMG_0695.jpg 

Unscrew and remove the generator tube.

IMG_0696.jpg 
IMG_0697.jpg 
Carefully slide the spring off the needle.

IMG_0698.jpg 

IMG_0699.jpg 

Using a 3/4" wrench, loosen the stem nut. This was on very tightly.

IMG_0700.jpg 


Unscrew & remove the nut. Be careful that you retain the internal parts (spring & washer) as they come out.

IMG_0701.jpg 

IMG_0702.jpg 


Loosen and remove the F/A tube.

IMG_0703.jpg 
IMG_0704.jpg 

Gently withdraw the valve stem & needle assembly.

IMG_0705.jpg 
IMG_0706.jpg 


Remove the F/A rod & spring.

IMG_0707.jpg 

IMG_0708.jpg 

Remove the spring from the stem nut.

IMG_0710.jpg 


You'll need to gently pry out the brass washer with a small screwdriver or other suitable implement.

IMG_0711.jpg 
IMG_0713.jpg 

Next, dig out (carefully) whatever is left of the o-ring. Be careful not to scratch or damage the stem nut.

IMG_0714.jpg 

IMG_0715.jpg 

Here is where I found out that the parts list/diagram was misleading. The needle does, in fact, unscrew from the valve stem, although, apparently, the two were meant to be ordered and replaced as an assembly. Why? Who knows?!

IMG_0718.jpg 

IMG_0719.jpg 

IMG_0720.jpg 

IMG_0722.jpg 


This is the front o-ring. It is what turns the fuel flow to the generator on and off. Both the front and rear (packing) o-rings are the same part number (5445-220) and are both square cut o-rings, size 010 (1/4" I.D. x 3/8" O.D. x 1/16" C.S.).

IMG_0723.jpg 


The front of the valve stem, after o-ring removal.

IMG_0725.jpg 

Now, remove the gas tip protector from the generator tube.

IMG_0726.jpg 

IMG_0727.jpg 

The gas tip was stuck inside the protector, so I tapped it out gently with a plastic mallet, and an old chop stick.

IMG_0728.jpg 
IMG_0730.jpg 

IMG_0731.jpg 

All the valve components cleaned & ready to go.

IMG_0732.jpg 


The two new o-rings.

IMG_0778.jpg 

Install one in the valve stem.

IMG_0779.jpg 
Install the second one in the stem nut. First, lay the ring squarely in the opening of the nut, as shown.

IMG_0782.jpg 


Using the spring, gently press the o-ring in until it seats properly in the nut.

IMG_0783.jpg 

IMG_0784.jpg 

IMG_0785.jpg 


Install the spring onto the valve stem...

IMG_0786.jpg 

...followed by the washer.

IMG_0787.jpg 


Gently insert the valve stem into the valve body.

IMG_0788.jpg 


Lightly lube the stem with some hi-temp silicone lube. This assures that:

a) the o-ring will more easily slide over the stem during assembly, and be less likely to bind & twist.

b) the stem will slide in & out easily, as it needs to, during use.

IMG_0789.jpg 


Carefully slide the stem nut over the valve stem, being careful not to damage the o-ring. Then tighten finger tight.

IMG_0790.jpg 

IMG_0791.jpg 


Place the valve body in the vice and tighten the nut tightly.

IMG_0792.jpg 

Looking into the inlet of the valve (F/A tube port). Turn the valve stem to center the OFF detent in the port, as shown.

IMG_0794.jpg 


Place the F/A rod & spring into the tube, as shown.

IMG_0796.jpg 


Screw the F/A tube into the valve body. IMPORTANT - the F/A tube must meet the valve body, as shown in the 2nd photo below, without using force of any kind.  When done correctly, it goes in fully - finger tight. If there is ANY resistance, twist the valve stem slightly back and forth, until you can finish seating the tube without force.
Failure to follow this procedure could result in damage to the F/A tube and/or the cam of the valve stem - both of which are irreplaceable!

IMG_0797.jpg 

IMG_0798.jpg 

Tighten the F/A tube snugly.

IMG_0800.jpg 


Insert the needle into the valve, engage the threads of the valve stem, screw in and tighten finger tight.

IMG_0801.jpg 

Using pliers, tighten snugly. Do not overtighten!

IMG_0803.jpg 


Install the spring over the needle.

IMG_0804.jpg 


Install & tighten the generator tube.

IMG_0805.jpg 
IMG_0806.jpg 

Insert the gas tip into the end of the generator tube.

IMG_0807.jpg 

Install & tighten the tip protector.

IMG_0808.jpg 

The assembled valve & generator.

IMG_0810.jpg 


Apply a small amount of thread sealer (I like Permatex #2) to the valve body threads...

IMG_0811.jpg 

...and screw it into the tank (the same number of turns that you unscrewed it earlier). You'll probably need to mount the valve body in the vice to finish tightening.

IMG_0812.jpg 

IMG_0813.jpg 


Insert the air stem...

IMG_0814.jpg 
...and install the pump.

IMG_0815.jpg 
IMG_0816.jpg 

Install the fuel cap. Mine was in great condition and didn't need to have the gasket changed.

[IMG_0817.jpg 
Sliding the knob on the valve stem completes the tank and valve assembly.

IMG_0818.jpg 

Now, we re-assemble the case. First, install the drip tray into the case and align the holes.

IMG_0856.jpg 


Install & tighten the 4 mounting screws (2 on either side).

IMG_0858.jpg 

IMG_0860.jpg 


Align the auxiliary burner valve with the slot in the case, and insert the valve through the slot.

IMG_0861.jpg 


Install the manifold/burner assembly on the drip tray.

IMG_0862.jpg 


While holding the manifold in place, install & tighten the pal nuts from the bottom of the case.

IMG_0863.jpg 

IMG_0864.jpg 


Install and tighten the screw & clip holding the manifold to the back of the case.

IMG_0865.jpg 


Install the grate by sliding one end into the clip, then the other end, working the clip into the case, as shown.

IMG_0869.jpg 
IMG_0870.jpg 
IMG_0871.jpg 

IMG_0872.jpg 

IMG_0873.jpg 
IMG_0874.jpg 


Now, replace the cover by sliding one hinge into the hole at the rear side of the case. Then depress the other hinge toward the center while working it into the hole.

IMG_0875.jpg 

IMG_0876.jpg 


The completed stove case.

IMG_0878.jpg 


The finished stove, with tank & valve in place.


IMG_0881.jpg 

IMG_0884.jpg 


Now, we light 'er up. We turn the knob to the LIGHT position and light the burner.

IMG_0885.jpg 

IMG_0886.jpg 


After about a minute, turn to the HI position.

IMG_0887.jpg 

IMG_0888.jpg 


Here is the LOW setting. A nice simmer.

IMG_0889.jpg 

IMG_0890.jpg 


Open the auxiliary burner valve. Here are both burners on LOW.

IMG_0891.jpg 

Both burners on a medium setting (halfway between HI and LOW)

IMG_0892.jpg 

Both burners on HI.

IMG_0893.jpg 

I did the "boil a quart of water" test on the main burner. Achieved a hard boil in 3:01 (three minutes, one second)!
This thing works great!

Well - looks like we've come to the end. Be happy and safe!


BobA



Quote
Kansas John
Thanks for all the work documenting the operation and tear down of this stove, Bob! Very thorough and informative.
John M. Lawrence, KS
ICCC #1431

Looking for a 214 kero and REI single burner anniversary stove as well as any Coleman born on date 10/77, 1/80
Quote
Deanofid
You do a good write-up, Bob.  Remind me in a week or two and we will get this put into the Tech archives.
Dean -Midnight Kerosene Ritualist--http://www.deansmachine.com  ICCC #1220.   275 commiseration #0018.
"In Him was life, and His life was the Light of men."  John 1:4
Quote
BobA
Thanks, guys!


Bob
Quote
Welcome to the Coleman Collectors Forum, an international forum of Coleman enthusiast and collectors, as such people from all over the world come here to read about Coleman collecting, repair, and to meet and make friends. The pages contained here are intended for the use of amateur collectors and people interested in Coleman collecting, restoration and repair as a hobby. It goes without saying to refrain from political posts, personal attacks and inflammatory posts.

Please note, all postings are the personal opinions of the members posting, the owner, administrators and moderators of the forum do not warrant the accuracy of posted information or endorse the safety of such.