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BobA
After almost 10 years of searching, I finally found an affordable Coleman 201 kerosene lantern. It needed some work, so I thought it was probably a good time for another one of my tutorials. This one is called (what else?):

Project 201

First, let's take a look at the poor old gal, as she was received from my eBay seller:

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Aside from all of the burner frame components (which look like they survived a house fire, and then were stored in a swamp for 10 years), most of the lantern is in pretty good shape and just needs a good cleaning!

So, let's get started:

Step #1 is to remove the bail.

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Now, take off the ball nut and lift off the ventilator.

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Now, gently lift off the globe.

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Next turn the tip cleaner so it points upward.

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Loosen and remove the frame nut.

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Lift the frame stright up to remove it.

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Loosen and remove the jamb nut.

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Lift the generator about an inch, and disengage the needle from the eccentric block.

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The base rest (collar) can now be removed.

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Now, to the pump. Using needlenose pliers, remove the clip.

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The pump plunger assembly pulls straight out.

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Unscrew and remove the air stem.

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At this point, if one was having difficulties with the check valve leaking, this would be the time to remove it. Since this one works fine, and looks almost like new (in fact, I can even hear the valve ball moving freely as I tilt the fount back & forth), I decided to leave this one in place.

Next step is to remove the fuel cap.

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Remove the valve knob screw, direction disc, and knob.

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Now we begin disassembly of the burner. Loosen the lock nut and unscrew the burner tube from the "U" tube.

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Slide the ventilator bracket out and remove it.

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Lift off the "U" tube...

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and the venturi.

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Here are the burner components, completely disassembled!

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Loosen & unscrew the packing nut all the way.

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Then, unscrew the valve stem until it comes out.

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The packing in this lantern was in excellent condition, so I did not change it. I just lightly polished the crud off of the valve stem using #0000 steel wool. Remember, go very lightly, as you don't want to remove any metal - just the crud!

Now we put our metal parts into the citric acid bath (I use bottled lemon juice). Remember, different batches for brass & steel.

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The burner parts after the bath. The brass parts also got a light polishing with #0000 steel wool. The steel parts were all well rusted. These required various amounts of wire brush work with my Dremel tool, and then polishing with the steel wool.

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Now, to reassemble the burner. First, drop the venturi into the frame's air tube.

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Drop the plain end of the "U" tube onto the venturi, with the threaded end over the hole in the center of the frame.

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Now slide the ventilator bracket between the "U" tube and the frame, lining up the holes in all three.

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Keeping the holes aligned, insert and screw in the burner tube.

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While making sure that the ventilator bracket is aligned squarely with the "U" tube & frame, as shown, tighten the locknut.

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Screw on the burner cap, and tighten as much as possible with fingers. Don't be afraid to crank it down hard by hand.

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Re-attach the preheater cup clip.

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The assembled burner frame:

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Here is the fount after cleaning & polishing. I use my own variation of the original Frank mixture. I use a mix of rubbing compound and Formula 409. Does a good job! While the paint does have some missing specks here & there (especially on the bottom), it doesn't come anywhere near a candidate for a repaint, in my book. I think it still looks darn good! After the polishing, I just rubbed a little car wax on to the fount to further protect it.

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At this point, I want to cover the valve. You'll notice that I have not removed the valve from the fount. This is because it simply was not necessary! While the frame of this lantern looked like it went through a world war, the inside of the fount looks like it just came from the factory! In the following pictures, I try to show a small sample of just how good this fount is, inside. The original coating appears new and unmolested. Not a single speck is missing. No rust to be found. I just rinsed it out with some kero and dumped it out - it was perfectly clean! I know that it's difficult to see through the tiny fuel filler, but it's the best I could get.

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Since I didn't remove the valve, I had to clean it in place. I used some brass polish & Q-Tips (no, not the gas tip - the cotton swab!) followed by the oft-mentioned #0000 steel wool. I think that it came out pretty well!

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Now, we install the collar.

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To install the generator, allow the needle to drop out an inch or less, and engage it with the hole in the eccentric block.

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While holding it engaged, turn the tip cleaner down. This will prevent the needle from slipping out  of the hole.

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Now screw down & tighten the jamb nut.

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Place the preheater cup on the frame, lining it up with the generator hole in the frame.

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Lower the frame over the generator, making sure that the tip of the generator goes into the hole in the air tube, and that the jamb nut and the stud on the valve come up through their respective holes in the frame.

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Screw on the frame nut and tighten it.

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Put the knob & direction disc back on the valve stem, retaining them with the screw.

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Now, we will see to the pump. You'll notice that this pump has the wrong cup on it. This lantern should use the leather cup, not neoprene (actually it is my considered opinion that they should ALL use leather, but that's another story).

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Pop off the "push-on nut" using needlenose pliers.

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Here we see the leather replacement.

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Place it over the end of the plunger...

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...and push on the nut.

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Screw in the air stem...

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...and insert the pump plunger, working the cup in carefully.

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Align the pump cap, and insert the clip.
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Now, we tie on a mantle...

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and burn it in!

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Replace the globe

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and the ventilator.

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Then, finally, the ball nut & bail. Assembly is complete!

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Fill the preheater cup.

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Preheating!

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Voila! The Sunshine of the Night!

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Thanks for reading! I hope it was helpful and enjoyable!


BobA
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Chucker
Yowza! Looks great!
Chuck
"Stop being angry, and forget about getting back at people; do not worry -- it only causes harm." Ps. 37:8
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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ChuckDynasty
Nice series of photos.
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Legs
Well done sir! Thanks for the tutorial. Nice lantern.

Don

Let it burn....        
Don... Oregon
USA 236 Syndicate #003  Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0126  The Coleman Blue's 243's #097
Coleman Slant Saver 007  ICC #1438   NRA #147137741
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Bob1774
Love your tutorials!  Great job on the lantern and documenting the process.
Bob
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1hpycmpr
Nice step by step with some very nice camera work! Great close-ups.
Mark
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markds2
Bob, what an absolutely brilliant tutorial! Well done - it has cleaned up beautifully. Your steps are practically exactly what I had to do to mine, which you can see here: http://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/post/my-first-kerosene-coleman-a-1983-201-7517737?pid=1288063773#post1288063773 This 201 was only used once or twice by the original owner (who I purchased it off).

Also, to quote you above:
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Now, we will see to the pump. You'll notice that this pump has the wrong cup on it. This lantern should use the leather cup, not neoprene (actually it is my considered opinion that they should ALL use leather, but that's another story).
 

For your interest, mine did come with the neoprene washer from factory, rather than the leather.
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BobA
Thanks to all, for the kind words!



markds2 wrote:
For your interest, mine did come with the neoprene washer from factory, rather than the leather.


That's interesting, Mark. Perhaps that is because yours was made in 1983, while mine hails from 1976. I notice that you got the instructions with yours. Please check your parts list and tell me what part number is listed for the pump cup.

Thanks,

BobA
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markds2
Not a problem Bob, I'll do a scan for you and pop it here for everyone to see.
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Murff

Great pictorial, Bob!

Okay to move it in a few days to Tech Assist Archive?

Murff


Name: Murff   ICCC Member #726 
Coleman Blue's 243's #002   Ebay Handle: Happy-campers2 
ICCC Newsletter Editor & Coleman Addiction Enabler
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BobA
Murff wrote:

Great pictorial, Bob!



Thanks, Murff.

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Okay to move it in a few days to Tech Assist Archive?

Murff



Absolutely - feel free! Also, please consider putting my related post from the topic 201 vs. 200A Burner Tubes into the archives as well. I think it could be potentially useful to those considering 200A kero conversions, as well as to those just interested in the 201 itself.

Thanks,

BobA




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BobA
markds2 wrote:
Not a problem Bob, I'll do a scan for you and pop it here for everyone to see.


Very good! Thanks, Mark.


BobA

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markds2
Here are the scans of the instructions included with my '83 model 201. And you are right, the part number shows 216-5091 which is correct for the leather washer. The instructions do appear to have the date of 12-76 so I wonder if they changed to neoprene later in production whist using instructions printed earlier?

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BobA
markds2 wrote:
Here are the scans of the instructions included with my '83 model 201. And you are right, the part number shows 216-5091 which is correct for the leather washer. The instructions do appear to have the date of 12-76 so I wonder if they changed to neoprene later in production whist using instructions printed earlier? 


First off, Mark, nice scans! Thanks!

It has to be one of two things. Either it is, as you said, a production change - OR - somebody, between 1983 and the present, found that the pump wasn't working, and instead of just oiling the leather, went out and bought one of the pump replacement kits (which use the neoprene cups) and installed it.

Actually, this (to me) is an interesting point. However, since this topic will soon be moved to the archives, I'm going to start a new topic called 201 Pump Cups for the purpose of trying to pin this down.


BobA

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