200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

Coldwaterpaddler
Bought this Preway 402 stove on Friday. My wife spotted it for me over a month ago and I wasn't really interested in gathering more 2-burner stoves. No, really, I wasn't. But, my youngest son just told me he was looking for a 2-burner white-gas stove and that got me thinking. I have a 1937 Preway 409 (crackle paint, etc.) and it's a nice stove, so I thought maybe he might like this and the price was right. The funny thing is that he told me that he'd really like to have my 1926, Model 2, because he thinks the oven feature is really nice. Man, he has expensive taste!

Anyway, I got this 402 home and cleaned it all up. I tightened the valve stem packing because it was leaking, as you can see by the drip mark on the fount. After replacing the fuel cap gasket, I lit it up. These don't work exactly like Coleman stoves because of the separate Pre-heater knob, so I double-checked the lighting instructions. But, here's the thing. It takes 5 minutes, at least, to get it to settle down to blue flame, unlike my other Preway. I'm thinking that either I'm flooding it and it's burning off excess fuel in the burners or maybe the generator is dirty (I didn't clean this, but the tip cleaner rod looked like new when I removed the valve stem to inspect the packing). I'm kinda leaning towards the flooding, but I'm following the light-up instructions, so it's not quite making sense.

Has anyone else has had this issue with Preways and, if so, what have you done to resolve it?

Also, do these generators un-thread similar to a Coleman?

I still haven't figured out when these 402s were made, so if anybody has figured that out, I'd like to know. It's got a cast-iron grate like the 1930s stoves. It's got rounded corners on the case, so I suspect it post-1937. The 1937 409s had squared corners, but 1938 409s had rounded corners.  I've only seen one or two examples on this forum and only two on CCS. It uses Bakelite, or some other plastic, knobs instead of the fiber wheels, so, I'll bet that's a clue, too. I don't know when this burner design was introduced, but it looks like post-war. Also, interesting is that the 400 series of numbers seem to be all in the 1930s. On the other hand, the plastic knobs and the entire fount look exactly like a 4521 which would be 1945 (Terry Marsh site).

Does anyone have an email address for Terry Marsh?

Here is the stove before some clean up and sheet metal straightening (on the bottom of the case to make the left-side leg lock correctly):
Preway_402_Clean.jpg 

The label is nice:
Preway_402_Label.jpg 
The pump uses a Coleman-like retainer clip instead of the more typical Preway threaded and removable pump tube:
Preway_402_Pump.jpg 

As you can see, once it gets going it works pretty nice:
Preway_402_Burning.jpg  Thanks,
Stovie-Steve
"Don't let the weather run your life" - Steve
The Coleman Blues - #95
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Coldwaterpaddler
Bump . . . since I posted at midnight, MST.
Stovie-Steve
"Don't let the weather run your life" - Steve
The Coleman Blues - #95
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Majicwrench
You had to get that, no questions asked.

I've got a similar one downstairs, rounded, same legs, wondering if mine has cool grate?
Seems these with this two-knob system are a little prone to flooding.
 Make sure  you have a flame source at burner the moment it starts to gurgle.
Do not open fuel valve anywhere near wide open, provides too much fuel.
Leave air valve open longer than you think.
And, with tank off and pumped up, make sure fuel isn't leaking out of genny tip.



I had an AGM (same valve arrangement) that the little hole that provides the air was almost plugged. Always started rich and took forever to clean out excess fuel. A few minutes work and it is now better than ever, I may have opened hole more than original.

I'm gonna go look at mine to see if it has same grate.....
Keith
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Coldwaterpaddler
@Majicwrench, thanks for the feedback. Yes, indeed it is flooding. I was able see that this morning when I used it to cook breakfast and coffee. I noticed fuel leaking out of the second burner poppet valve stem under the burner, once I opened it. In fact, it pooled under the burner. The Preway design uses that really short tube for air, and I was thinking that it wouldn't clog. So, one option is to remove the valve from the fount. I'm thinking that it is the only way you could have cleared your AGM. Is that correct? Second , the instructions say to open several turns, but maybe I'm going too far and allowing too much fuel to pass. Perhaps a few more experiments before I unnecessarily remove the valve.

I'm curious if you have the same stove.

For future reference, here is what I found for lighting instructions of typical Preway stoves:
Preway_409_Lighting_Instructions.jpg 
 
Stovie-Steve
"Don't let the weather run your life" - Steve
The Coleman Blues - #95
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Sam McCord
Steve that's a neat stove. I really like the Preway stoves and have a couple of them but both are older than the 402. Joe Pagan helped me out to nail down a date on a model 8F Auto Cook Kit and during our email exchange he indicated that the 400 series stoves first showed up in the catalogs he has about 1935 to 1936 time frame. He could not find his 1934 catalog at the time. Hopefully he will see this and post.
Doug

Why is there never enough time to do it right but always enough time to do it over?
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Majicwrench
Mine is the same but w/o the cool grate.
Dang, forgot to look to see if mine has that same pump. Later.

On the AGM, yes I pulled valve. 

Is your generator tip tight?? If you are pooling fuel you are really getting a lot of fuel. but it does clean up eventually??
Keith
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Coldwaterpaddler
It does clear up eventually. I turned off the valve and let the fuel burn out of the burners and then light it up again and it works nicely. I'm pretty confident that it's getting really flooded. So either A) I'm not being patient enough when lighting, B) The air tube is clogged or C) the gen needs some service. I'll check that gen tip again next. Pretty sure it was tight, but maybe with all of that varnished fuel on the generator, it's not properly tightened. 

A couple more photos from today:
Preway_402_Staged.jpg 

Preway_402_Closed.jpg 
Stovie-Steve
"Don't let the weather run your life" - Steve
The Coleman Blues - #95
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Coldwaterpaddler
@Majicwrench are you saying that yours is labeled 402, but has the wire grate?

While I was out today I picked up a 425C and tore it down to clean the F/A tube. It was crusty. It's running good now, but the check valve still isn't right. I don't like it when they don't seal completely while the stem is still open.

After that, I went back to the Preway and thought I'd give it another light to see if lack of patience was my issue, but then noticed that after opening the main valve, but before I could even light it, there was a lot of fuel on the generator end. I could barely see it while still in the manifold. So, I took the tank out and looked at it. I opened the valve with the preheat valve opened and the fuel was a constant stream. I was thinking I'd see more of a misty-spray. At this point I figured I had two problems, the air tube is clogged and the gen tip wasn't tight enough. I thought I'd remove the generator because I don't have a good way to get something on the valve to removed it, but I couldn't get the generator loose either. I'm thinking that next, I'll put the long generator end of the valve in the vise and see if I can rotate the fount off. Not sure what kind of tool they used to install these things, but I'm really concerned about bending the fount. It's tough to use some heat because these founts are difficult to drain and get dry of any fuel.

I think I'm heading towards a complete tear-down anyway. After working on so many GPA's it seems like if I can get the old ones as clean as new, they will likely operate as new when I'm done. The tricky part is getting them all apart without breaking anything.

Here's the Preway 402-700 Grate ID for reference:
Preway_402_Grate_ID.jpg 
 
Stovie-Steve
"Don't let the weather run your life" - Steve
The Coleman Blues - #95
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Majicwrench
MIne is labeled a 4 digit number, would have to go downstairs. Is probably newer than yours, has same case/tank but with typical wire grate.

Do not hold genny tube in vise and try to turn tank.

Heat is your friend. Tank is sealed. Heat it up. Use common sense, like do it outside.
Keith
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Coldwaterpaddler
Sorry. Didn't mean to imply that I would clamp the genny tube in the vise. I meant the part of the valve into which the genny gets threaded. Seems to be about the only place to grip the valve to get it out of the fount.
Stovie-Steve
"Don't let the weather run your life" - Steve
The Coleman Blues - #95
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Coldwaterpaddler
@Majicwrench  Well . . . what a bummer. Used heat but a butane torch on only the brass valve part and proceeded to spin the fuel tank fitting. Apparently the solder was still soft. Not sure how to fix that, yet or get the valve out at this point. It may take some experimenting if it can be removed at all.

After I stood there looking at it, it occurred to me that on these AGM and Preway stoves, it would probably be better to remove the preheat valve and shoot solvent in there, let it sit and then eventually blow compressed air though it to clear it, with the fuel cap removed.
Stovie-Steve
"Don't let the weather run your life" - Steve
The Coleman Blues - #95
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Majicwrench
Bummer is right!

Solder valve back onto tank.  Get it clean clean and then cleaner. Flux, heat it up good and touch the solder to it. What solder is there may flow just fine.
Keith
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Coldwaterpaddler
Ha! Just finished doing that. I don't think that valve is ever coming out. Once I get the valve guts  and generator cleaned up and back together, I'll test my soldering for leaks.
Stovie-Steve
"Don't let the weather run your life" - Steve
The Coleman Blues - #95
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Coldwaterpaddler
@Majicwrench I was pretty bummed earlier today. But . . . . .

Bullwinkle: "Hey Rocky, watch me pull a rabbit outta my hat"
Rocky: "Again?"

Not sure if it seemed like I implied that the entire tank fitting came out with the valve, but to be clear, it didn't. Everything just spun in the fount. I cleaned around the fitting with a small, bent angle wire brush. Wouldn't even know where to get another one. The brush wire area is less than 1/4" wide. It worked great. I spread flux around the solder joint. careful not to get any on the threads, etc. I was  ready to add solder if needed. I heated the valve body with the micro butane torch and added a little solder here and there. I was thinking that they would have used silver solder, but this stuff flows at low temp. Anyway, here is the soldering result.
Preway_402_Solder_Fount.jpg 

I sprayed carb cleaner into the pre-heater opening and let it sit for some time, then blew it out with compressed air. I installed the generator, pre-heater valve stem and main valve stem. Then added fuel. I pressurized the fount, then flipped it over and tilted it to the valve end and let it sit for 10 minutes to see if it leaked at all. It did not. So, what else to do, but try to light up the stove?

Preway_402_Burn_Post_Solder_Clean.jpg 

I opened the pre-heater valve, lit a match and then opened the main valve. Right away it sounded different than before. It lit almost immediately. And really, it worked the way I thought it should. It lit quickly, no flooding and the flame settled down quickly.

So, two troubleshooting items to note:
1 - The gen tip was tight, but not tight enough. It was leaking fuel around the fitting. Considering that the generator was nearly clean and was shiny (inside) in places I think it's possible that someone either cleaned it or replaced it at some point but didn't tighten the generator tip.

2 - Since it acted way better at startup (more forceful sound of air) I think the air tube was also partially clogged. Adding carb cleaner and using compressed air fixed it. I will be trying this first in future Preway projects before trying to remove a valve that doesn't want to come out.

Finally, one thing I learned is that Preway used a lower temp solder than newer Coleman products, so be careful if you plan to use heat on the valve body. In fact, it's probably not a great choice for Preway tear-downs unless the valve is already removed.

Thanks to the Preway owners for the sound advice on the gen tip and the air tube. So far, so good. This time I pulled the rabbit out of the hat. Phew!
Stovie-Steve
"Don't let the weather run your life" - Steve
The Coleman Blues - #95
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Majicwrench
Solder job looks good!
No need to use silver solder there.

Now cook something.......
Keith
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