200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

ke4ljh
Preserving Burner Cages After Clean Up?

After rust removal and cleaning with Mother Aluminium Mag and Wheel Cleaner. What can be done to prevent future rust?

I know that Silver VHT spray paint from auto parts store is an option.

If the finish is nice enough would a Clear Coat VHT keep the burner frame nice?

Are there other options that might be better?

Stephen - Florida
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Gand28
I think it depends on where you live and where you store them.  I have no rusting problems, but mine are mostly indoors.
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
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cainlp
That's true.  Here in Florida my can of Evaporust is all rusty.
In the beautiful Sorrento Valley, between the towering snow-covered peaks of Mt. Dora and Mt. Plymouth.
ICCC # 1508
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 166
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club # 046
Canadian Blues Syndicate # 43
Coleman Slant Saver Group # 34
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Eel
Out of the vat, I spray mine with Seafoam Spray - it does take some time to smoke off when you light up for the first time, and doesn't do all that much to protect in the longer term.  Not NEARLY as ugly as VHT, though.

EEL Eclectic Lanterns, div.  Doofenshmirtz-EEL Incorporated.

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curlyjoe_99
I use VHT for brakes as it is glossy. I usually coat the frame and any exposed brass to keep it nice until well used.
it seems to do well enough on the frame but the generator scorches it in like 5 minutes
Robert (AKA Curly)-- Heart-of-Texas! "Keep 'Em Working"  
MILSPEC_OPS & 275 Appreciation Syndicate Member #9999

In Search of (ISO): evidence of a 220/228 series lantern dated 2/63    

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ke4ljh
Curlyjoe, are you referring to Clear VHT, That is what I'm thinking as I have some?

Stephen - Florida
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curlyjoe_99
yes but what type of VHT do you have?
I use the brakes spray as it is approximately 1200deg f but still glossy and several colors besides clear.
the high heat is only flat in sheen and the engine coats are only around 500deg before they give out.

Robert (AKA Curly)-- Heart-of-Texas! "Keep 'Em Working"  
MILSPEC_OPS & 275 Appreciation Syndicate Member #9999

In Search of (ISO): evidence of a 220/228 series lantern dated 2/63    

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Chucker
I use the VHT clear (flame proof) on the upper 1/4 and regular clear Engine Enamel (500deg.) on the rest as it is also oil/gas resistant. 
Chuck
"...we also glory in our sufferings, because we know that suffering produces perseverance; perseverance, character; and character, hope" Romans 5:3-4
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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ke4ljh
I use the VHT brand.

 did you mean VHT clear coat 2000 degree on the upper burner cage?
What is your experience with using Clear coat VHT 2000 degree on the crown?

I understand why use the clear engine enamal on the fount.

Stephen - Florida
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curlyjoe_99
for myself, I like the shine of the clear coat over the color coats on the founts. also, if you have a stubborn color that VHT doesn't quite match and you use a different brand that isn't fuel resistant, you can overcoat it with the clear (most of the time).

the high heat VHT goes on flat AND I have had bad experience with both it and the white turning brown or antique once the high heat from the lantern bakes on it- even after curing.

So when I do use the High heat VHT on a vent, I just leave it the flat color and that seems to work out ok.

Now, back to the burner cages, it is really a preference and personal decision. So that I don't need to keep multiple clear coats around, I decided to stick with VHT (or equivalent) clear coats for the Brakes and wheels. it will protect the lower 2/3 of the cage and bake down on the upper portion of the cage and manifold once it is used. However, i do have several refurbs that I have yet to burn and they are sitting there nice and shiny 5 years after their repaint. 

again it really is how do you want to proceed.   Hope this helps you decide
Robert (AKA Curly)-- Heart-of-Texas! "Keep 'Em Working"  
MILSPEC_OPS & 275 Appreciation Syndicate Member #9999

In Search of (ISO): evidence of a 220/228 series lantern dated 2/63    

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Aspbear
I just use the VHT clear coat, but I like to see the metal, the silver just does not look right to me but that is just my opinion and we all know about opinions.
G.B. Harp
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ke4ljh
Ok, the Clear VHT is what i was thinking. Is there a problem with the clear VHT peeling or discoloring on the burner cage itslelf. That is where I want to use it.

I have a nice lantern and do not want to be sorry later!

VHT clear coat on the burner frame or not?

Stephen - Florida
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Aspbear
Mine has never peeled just a light coat
G.B. Harp
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Chucker
Like Curlyjoe_99 (Robert) said the VHT clear coat can look a little burnt after a while - your mileage may vary.
Chuck
"...we also glory in our sufferings, because we know that suffering produces perseverance; perseverance, character; and character, hope" Romans 5:3-4
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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Asbestos
I just hit a pair  200 frames with some rust oleum ultra high heat silver.(1200 deg F) I did a multiple bake off 200>cool>400>cool>550>done I ran them in the driveway for about an hour and it seemed to hold  up fine. I have used POR high heat I think it's 1500 and that works pretty well. I think I like the POR as it better matches the original.
Pithy saying wanted- will pay cash for wit.

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ke4ljh
Chucker, I need just a little clarification..


 Your comment:
"I use the VHT clear (flame proof) on the upper 1/4 and regular clear Engine Enamel (500deg.) on the rest as it is also oil/gas resistant. "

Does this mean you have good results with VHT Clear Coat Flame Proof 2000 degree on the upper burner cage without discoloration for a working lantern?

Do you also use the VHT Clear Coat Flame Proof on the Vent without problems?



Stephen - Florida
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Chucker
Sure Stephen.

I'm going to say I haven't "noticed" dis-colorization on the upper frame of the one's I've done with VHT clear/flame proof. Since they came to me as rusty I'm not losing sleep over any slight dis-colorization if it happens. Besides, the vent hides that area of the frame. If you want one without the potential for dis-colorization, use clear coat and set it up as a Shelf Queen. 

Yes, I have used the VHT flame proof clear coat on Mil-spec vents only after my attempt to get the black and green VHT to adhere (3 coats) failed IMO. I followed the directions to a tee and still the VHT flame proof paint alone will chip from a Milspec vent. I am contemplating using the whole 9 yards next - VHT primer, VHT paint, and VHT Clear coat on the SMP vents. 

The easy way to cure the vent issue is to purchase enameled older Milspec vents but I do like a challenge and the SMP stays original.
Chuck
"...we also glory in our sufferings, because we know that suffering produces perseverance; perseverance, character; and character, hope" Romans 5:3-4
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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