200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

hikerduane
Was airing out my nickel stripped "R"  fount so I could solder one area on the bottom where it was weeping a little, some pitted rust along the seam.  These early founts take some doing to shake out any liquid then to dry out.  After all day, came to realize that the early shapes seem to be prone to stress cracks and after some research this Spring, read where even preheating a large area could cause a crack when all you are trying to do is relieve the material, so added some leftover POR 15 I had last night, rolling the fount around where the leak was, hoping I covered the area it might be leaking from and not a leak that ran aways before finding a route out.  Down side, takes quite a few days for the stuff to dry, hope I covered the complete area and don't have to coat the remainder.  Weep was very minor, but would be a pain if placing the lamp on a nice surface.
Duane 
Duane-All seasons, year round backpacker and camper.  So many stoves and lanterns, who's counting.
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SteveRetherford
did ya clean the inside first ? i always do a citric bath , bb dance , acetone wash n blow dry first
[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
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MYN
I'd guess, patience would prevent a lot later frustrations.
I would give that at least a week to completely dry out the solvents and cure in open-air before fuelling.
POR-15 is a urethane/polyurethane sealing product. A little ambient humidity actually hastens curing.
Sometimes slow curing is better because the product could remain 'more fluid' and have a longer time to work itself into all pores and crevices.
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hikerduane
Only thing I did, hoping the stuff would take, is dump the fuel out that I had run it on.   Have cleaned real well in the past when I sealed founts.
Duane
Duane-All seasons, year round backpacker and camper.  So many stoves and lanterns, who's counting.
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Majicwrench
I'm a huge fan of following the directions on can and so far have had excellent results.
Keith
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