200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

WhiskyBingo

I recently fixed 2 M1950 stoves, but the third one is giving me problems. 


Replaced gasket, pip, and pump cup to get the pump working. 

Replaced the fuel needle gasket so that the stove can be turned back off.

Now the stove is leaking fuel from the valve itself, only when the valve is open. 

I can not tell if it is leaking from where the eccentric stem body screws into the valve body, or where the packing nut screws onto the eccentric body. The valve body might be dented out-of-round enough that it isn’t sealing there, or it might be just the graphite packing needs to be replaced (might be my fault from overtightening). 


I also can’t find a part number for the graphite packing, so I’m not sure which (if any) replacements might fit. Does anyone know which packing would work for the M1950?


also, the actual eccentric was damaged/excessively worn when I got the stove, so I’m considering declaring it dead and just using it for parts. 

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Chucker
"Macwacs" is a good one to comment on this. 

I recall someone said they took a 220 lantern graphite and cut it down to fit that stove but - I may be misremembering. Some days I can't tell. 
Chuck
"Pleasant words are a honeycomb, Sweet to the soul and healing to the bones." Proverbs 16:24
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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Cottage_hill_bill
You can also try this approach,
https://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/post/repack-tip-cleaner-9468552?pid=1284415058&highlight=packing
Reese
North West Florida

Reese’s Law of Thermodynamics:  At temperatures below incandescence hot metal looks exactly like cold metal.

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Phredd
I always try this first before replacing the packing a have solved some packing leaks. Open the about 1/2 way - apply heat to the valve with a small torch - you need to get it hot - and then while still warm tightening the valve back down.  And of course you would need to have the fount empty!

Phredd
ICCC#1799
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #40
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macwacs
Take it apart again and look at the mating surfaces closely for a defect or crack. The eccentric block is inside and should not have an effect on anything unless it is binding. It only moves 1/4 of an inch. Often a few drops of oil on the packing will help. Tighten everything up and give a dunk in water for a bubble test. I had one that needed to be done three times before I got the sweet spot. Everything looked good just one of those that liked the extra attention.
RMW
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SteveRetherford
i have replaced the valve stem packing in these a few times , as i recall its just what they call the large packing for a 220 . dont think i had to do this on a M1950 but if the packing is too long to get the packing nut started you just hand file shorter . i didnt have specific M1950 packing i just used what i had here .
[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
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WhiskyBingo

Update:

the worn tip of the eccentric was fixed by altering a washer to fit between the eccentric stem and the eccentric body, so the face of the eccentric stem is pushed against the face of the eccentric block. I reassembled it with a soft thread sealant on both ends of the eccentric body, and it fired up with no leaks. The graphite packing doesn’t seem to have been the problem, and with the spacer added, the eccentric stem no longer binds/grinds against the eccentric block. 

In testing the ones I had already repaired, I realized that another one probably needs the thread sealant on the eccentric body. So I‘m still 2-1 on repairing M-1950 stoves. 

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