Sportsman globe
Blow out price
Was $19
Now $8
VWguy
I waited to start this thread until I could verify this lantern was rebuild material. It looks like it will be good to go on all the original parts it came with expect the globe and fiber wheel. The tank has no cracks or pinholes, but it does contain rust. Below is a picture of the inside of the tank after one treatment with krud kutter. Also half of the top hat was polished quickly with a promising result. This seems like it will be a strait forward job. One question.. Q99 or R55?

[2YCdq6K] 

[fmYRTX6] 

[SUJsjeg] 

[DNHO8up] 

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
BSAGuy
Lookin' good, Zach.  Keep going.
- Courtenay
Be Prepared
Quote
Gand28
Special lantern should have an original Q99.

There are threads on how to glue a fiber wheel back together. It may be hard to find a good “B” wheel that someone will give up.
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
Quote
VWguy
Gand28 wrote:
Special lantern should have an original Q99.

There are threads on how to glue a fiber wheel back together. It may be hard to find a good “B” wheel that someone will give up.


I'll have to start looking for a q99. Might be hard to find an OG that's not way over priced.

I'll start looking for a B fiber wheel and attempt to mend mine.

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
Rubing
Nice lantern, search oven cleaner you might like it. If the valve wheel is separated I have had good luck in the past with Elmer’s glue. Apply it in the seperations, put a flat washer on each side and clamp together, make sure you remove the excess glue before it hardens and then just set aside until you are ready for it.
ICCC # 1402
Quote
Fraggboy
You are off to a great start. That rust in the fount will come out in no time. Evaporust is my “go to” solution for that.

+1 on using a Q99.
Quote
VWguy
Any thoughts on how I can repair the graphite seal on the fill and pump cap? It's not a good seal and is missing chunks. I could remove the graphite and put a rubber o ring in, unless it's possible to repack the graphite.

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
Rubing
VWguy wrote:
Any thoughts on how I can repair the graphite seal on the fill and pump cap? It's not a good seal and is missing chunks. I could remove the graphite and put a rubber o ring in, unless it's possible to repack the graphite.
You can order replacements from our sponsor OCP.
ICCC # 1402
Quote
VWguy
Rubing wrote:
You can order replacements from our sponsor OCP.


Not that graphite. I mean the graphite around the underside of the fill cap. I didnt see anything like that on ocp.

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
Gand28
VWguy wrote:


Not that graphite. I mean the graphite around the underside of the fill cap. I didnt see anything like that on ocp.


Its not graphite, it’s a lead seal. You have to really wrench on them to get it tight. I use a small black o-ring on my filler plugs like this. Lets you close and open by hand and it’s not really noticeable.
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
Quote
VWguy
Gand28 wrote:


Its not graphite, it’s a lead seal. You have to really wrench on them to get it tight. I use a small black o-ring on my filler plugs like this. Lets you close and open by hand and it’s not really noticeable.


Aww ok, I'll do that then.

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
Gand28
If you have your heart set on keeping the lead seal, you can reflow the lead with a little heat or add some lead from some fishing sinkers.
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
Quote
VWguy
Gand28 wrote:
If you have your heart set on keeping the lead seal, you can reflow the lead with a little heat or add some lead from some fishing sinkers.


Hmm good call ok the fishing sinkers. Ill try that, either way I can still throw an O ring on there.

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
Rubing
Gand28 wrote:
If you have your heart set on keeping the lead seal, you can reflow the lead with a little heat or add some lead from some fishing sinkers.
Or you can buy a replacement lead seal from Fred Kuntz.
ICCC # 1402
Quote
VWguy
Rubing wrote:
Or you can buy a replacement lead seal from Fred Kuntz.


I may do that, i gotta email him soon and get the order going for a globe anyway. Wonder what the best way to remove the old lead seal would be? 

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
VWguy
Just one picture for tonight. The Rust in the tank was being stubborn so I gave it a ride on the tumbler for 15 min with the rust cleaner inside.. Seemed to really shake some stuff loose. Ill dump the results out tomorrow. I buffed out the collar and top hat. started the rust treatment on the frame. Cleaned all the paint off the fount, and besides the dents here and there, its a nice one. 

[4LO8h6J] 

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
steve p
Sounds like your making progress on the LZ. All those dings and dents are part of its story. Looking forward to the lite up.
I found one a few months ago. Love it. Wife even said it can be in the house. What a gal.
Steve

 We,re chained to the world and we all gotta pull.
                                                                 Tom Waits
Quote
VWguy
steve p wrote:
Sounds like your making progress on the LZ. All those dings and dents are part of its story. Looking forward to the lite up.
I found one a few months ago. Love it. Wife even said it can be in the house. What a gal.


Haha, yea. I have 2 dirty lamps and an optimus 1200 that have been on the dining table for 2 weeks, no word from the misses about moving em. The finished ones that are cleaned up nice go in my office.

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
Gunhippie
That's looking fine, Zach!

I have a half-dozen of the nickel-plated brass vents (top hats), and none were even close to as good of a condition as your started in. All of mine have been caved-in in the center from over-tightened ball nuts, and most were in several pieces.

OCP has your repro Q99s. After an hour or so of running it will look just like a vintage one. I like to unscrew the tip from a new or old Q99 and flush it with carb cleaner from the bottom on the belief that this will wash any any loose pieces of the fiber packing. Seems to work, as I haven't had to prick one yet.

Be very careful threading the new (or old) gen into the valve. It's very easy to strip those threads out, and very difficult to repair.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
VWguy
Gunhippie wrote:
That's looking fine, Zach!

I have a half-dozen of the nickel-plated brass vents (top hats), and none were even close to as good of a condition as your started in. All of mine have been caved-in in the center from over-tightened ball nuts, and most were in several pieces.

OCP has your repro Q99s. After an hour or so of running it will look just like a vintage one. I like to unscrew the tip from a new or old Q99 and flush it with carb cleaner from the bottom on the belief that this will wash any any loose pieces of the fiber packing. Seems to work, as I haven't had to prick one yet.

Be very careful threading the new (or old) gen into the valve. It's very easy to strip those threads out, and very difficult to repair.


Im working on that right now in fact. The previous owner of this lantern broke the generator off just above the threads. Its going to take some heat and vice grips go get the old generator that rusted, out of the base. So wish me luck on that, its the last part im really worried about. The rest should be A-ok!

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
Gand28
Making progress! A torch on the old lead in the fill cap will have it flowing out in no time.
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
Quote
VWguy
Just a small update today. I buffed the collar and top hat well. Seems to be in good condition. I also was able to remove the old broken off generator from the valve ass. little heat and it came out nicely. 

[airWgqx] 

[91jUZJn] 

I also saw this Alladin wick lamp at a shop near me, even at $140 I was really tempted to buy it. Its really cool looking I thought. I passed for now. 

[B0HiO8P]

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
VWguy
Bit of progress today. Cleaned up the parts mostly with steel wool. The frame is pretty shot, not sure if I should try to find another or send it! Functionally its fine, just rusty. Thoughts? I flowed a led fishing weight and got the cap to seal up nicely. Im just waiting on the fiber wheel to dry. I had some more cracks to seal up before I spray it with a water resistant and UV resistant urethane. 

[image]  [kvzJ1l0]  [XVjFYL6]  [ux8wcV1] 

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
OregonMichael
Zach, that frame looks really decent to me.  They were plated, so the shiny parts are what's left of the plating.  Brush on some naval jelly where the rust is and let it work for a few minutes.  Then, start scraping the rust to get down to bare steel.  You'll probably need to repeat a few times.  When you get it where you're happy with the rust removal, follow up with some Barkeeper's Friend and a scouring pad, then finish off with an SOS Pad.  Once it dries completely, you should have a good finish that still retains some of the nickel plating in spots.  That's what I do, anyway.


Quote
VWguy
OregonMichael wrote:
Zach, that frame looks really decent to me.  They were plated, so the shiny parts are what's left of the plating.  Brush on some naval jelly where the rust is and let it work for a few minutes.  Then, start scraping the rust to get down to bare steel.  You'll probably need to repeat a few times.  When you get it where you're happy with the rust removal, follow up with some Barkeeper's Friend and a scouring pad, then finish off with an SOS Pad.  Once it dries completely, you should have a good finish that still retains some of the nickel plating in spots.  That's what I do, anyway.




Ive never used the Navel Jelly, ive seen it used, just never tried it. Maybe ill give it a shot instead of leaving the rust. 

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
Gand28
Repair on that valve wheel looks awesome! Glad you invested the time in that. I second Michael’s naval jelly routine. He taught me how to do it!
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
Quote
VWguy
Ran into a snag.. I've assembled it to this point. And despite having to re set the lead seal again due to a very small air leak. I can't get the pressure to come out of the top of the valve assembly. I've rebuilt the valve assembly with a new graphite seal and that seems to be fine. When I had it apart I cleaned it and was able to pass air through it.. thoughts? Troubleshooting?

Click image for larger version - Name: 20190421_135225.jpg, Views: 240, Size: 176.07 KB

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
SteveRetherford
you sure pump is up to snuff ? put a finger over the tip n try to pump it ?
[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
Quote
VWguy
SteveRetherford wrote:
you sure pump is up to snuff ? put a finger over the tip n try to pump it ?


Yea I just re oiled the pump cup. It's a lantern pump for sure. The tank is holding pressure. It's just not comming out when I open the valve. Which is weird...

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
SteveRetherford
there has got to be some crap in the valve somewhere . its just a straight shot from the fount up when you crack the valve . pull the valve n inspect it .
[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
Quote
VWguy
SteveRetherford wrote:
there has got to be some crap in the valve somewhere . its just a straight shot from the fount up when you crack the valve . pull the valve n inspect it .


Ok I'll try and clean it again.

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
SteveRetherford
could the pick up tube be bottomed out and created a blockage there . typicaly this is just simple to get working .
[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
Quote
VWguy
SteveRetherford wrote:
could the pick up tube be bottomed out and created a blockage there . typicaly this is just simple to get working .
this could be it, it was bent a little when I pulled it out and I straitened it. Maybe I should re curve it lol!!

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
VWguy
Good news everyone! I poked around with a thin wire with the valve wheel ass. Out. I found there to be some sort of blockage just under it into the pick up tube. It shoots up like a fountain now. Which brings be to my next question.. unlike a newer lantern that spits, when you crack the wheel and test without the generator. Is it normal for these ones to shoot out like a stream?

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
kansaswoody
VWguy wrote:
Good news everyone! I poked around with a thin wire with the valve wheel ass. Out. I found there to be some sort of blockage just under it into the pick up tube. It shoots up like a fountain now. Which brings be to my next question.. unlike a newer lantern that spits, when you crack the wheel and test without the generator. Is it normal for these ones to shoot out like a stream?

Yes, that’s what makes it need the preheat. No fuel air mixture at all, just pure fuel from the straight pickup tube.
Drew
Turd Appreciation Member #1286
Quote
VWguy
Is this even the right frame? Even so, is this how the burner stand will be mounted? (BTW uploading photos still sucks!) Other forum features are nice.  Click image for larger version - Name: 20190429_125624-768x1024-307x409.jpg, Views: 196, Size: 50.45 KB Click image for larger version - Name: 20190429_130241-1024x1365-768x1024-192x256.jpg, Views: 196, Size: 29.60 KB

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
OregonMichael
Zach, I just looked at my LZ and the frame is different than what you have; it's a Quicklite frame without the baffle plate.  Yours looks more like an early Air-O-Lantern.  However, that doesn't mean it's not original to the lantern.  Lots of parts substitutions in the factory.  
Quote
VWguy
Finally done! I got distracted a few times and flowing new lead to fill the cap properly with no leaks was a challenge, but, I got it done. Fired up pretty nicely. Once I get a new Globe from Fred, I will throw some new mantels on it and let it glow. 

[3vaIdbm] 

[7AVajWF] 

[6SY3nPS] 

I have no idea what I am doing.


-Zach

Quote
Gand28
Looking good, Zach!
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
Quote
OregonMichael
Good job!  Glad to see that patience paid off and that one came together so nicely.  Looking forward to the pictures with mica...
Quote
Welcome to the Coleman Collectors Forum, an international forum of Coleman enthusiast and collectors, as such people from all over the world come here to read about Coleman collecting, repair, and to meet and make friends. The pages contained here are intended for the use of amateur collectors and people interested in Coleman collecting, restoration and repair as a hobby. It goes without saying to refrain from political posts, personal attacks and inflammatory posts.

Please note, all postings are the personal opinions of the members posting, the owner, administrators and moderators of the forum do not warrant the accuracy of posted information or endorse the safety of such.