200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

Tgarner01
Looking to clean some dirty Founts out and was wondering what ratio of lye mixture to use. Googling comes up with soap mixtures.. Been there done that. Thought I'd ask the experts ðŸ˜
Toby Garner
ICCC #1939
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Gunhippie
I use about 1/4 cup to a gallon of very hot water. Don't get any on you!

Be sure to keep it off of paint unless you want to strip it. Aluminum and lye play very poorly together.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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Tgarner01
Gunhippie wrote:
I use about 1/4 cup to a gallon of very hot water. Don't get any on you!

Be sure to keep it off of paint unless you want to strip it. Aluminum and lye play very poorly together.

Thanks Timm, I've had experience with it in the past getting on skin.. It's not fun for sure. I'm glad you mentioned the aluminum, I've always wondered about it. Will give it a go, thanks.
Toby Garner
ICCC #1939
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Whitegas Extraordinaire
Make sure you use a measuring cup and proper PPE. I was shaking lye into 24-30 oz of water and mistakenly Dumped 1/2 a jar of lye into it. I didn’t realize I had a saturated solution until I was filling a fount up. This could have gone very bad and I got extremely lucky!
TY
Kevin
I frighten easily!

My current shade is Coleman!!

To me a lamp without a shade is creepy!

ICCC # 1865

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Tgarner01
Definitely! Thanks for the heads up.
Toby Garner
ICCC #1939
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Rubing
I just pour liquid Drano in them. 
ICCC # 1402
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Whitegas Extraordinaire
Rubing wrote:
I just pour liquid Drano in them. 

Greg
Ive done that too but powered lye is 1/10th the cost.
Saves a ton of $
TY
Kevin
I frighten easily!

My current shade is Coleman!!

To me a lamp without a shade is creepy!

ICCC # 1865

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Tgarner01
Rubing wrote:
I just pour liquid Drano in them. 

I've thought of that as I know it has some lye in it, but was not sure of the rest of the ingredients... Do you have any trouble with flash rusting? Main reason I'm looking to use strait lye is because we have a bunch of it from my wife making bar soap... Playing around mainly
Toby Garner
ICCC #1939
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Gunhippie
I'm sure you're already aware of this, but ALWAYS add the powdered or concentrated lye to water, and NEVER the other way around!

Do whatcha' oughter, add chemicals to water!

We use mostly liquid lye here at the brewery as powder has anti-clumping agents that will clog small passages in our equipment. One day, I noticed the plastic pitcher we use to measure it was half-full of crystallized lye. Since I needed some for my electrolysis tanks, I filled the pitcher up halfway with hot water. The bottom of the pitcher melted and fell out immediately--and fortunately right over the sink. Could have been messy.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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Tgarner01
Thanks Timm, I was aware... Usually look it up again before hand to make sure I'm going the right way ðŸ˜
Toby Garner
ICCC #1939
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JimL
Not being a fan of dealing with chemicals that require PPE and the potential to burn myself, I suggest using boiling citric in the fount.  I find it cleans out old fuel residue as well as rust.  Perhaps I'd consider the nastier chemicals if I dealt with them on a regular basis.

I appreciate that Timm mentioned adding chemicals to water.  Too many folks in the past assume that everyone knows this so they don't mention it.

-Jim

Flammable liquids, open flame, what could go wrong?


There is a very fine line between hobby and mental illness. - Dave Barry
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Tgarner01
JimL wrote:
Not being a fan of dealing with chemicals that require PPE and the potential to burn myself, I suggest using boiling citric in the fount.  I find it cleans out old fuel residue as well as rust.  Perhaps I'd consider the nastier chemicals if I dealt with them on a regular basis.

I appreciate that Timm mentioned adding chemicals to water.  Too many folks in the past assume that everyone knows this so they don't mention it.

I use hit citric a lot rebuilding these GPAs. And if I had slightly dirty fount I would use it. But it seems as if they either need nothing but flushed out or are absolutely full of rust or old dried up RUG. Just trying to expand my experience and tooling... Knowledge. Idk anything to make this hobby easier. I have FFR'd a lot of lanterns in a very short amount of time and still looking for new improved ways to do so ðŸ˜
Toby Garner
ICCC #1939
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OregonMichael
Gunhippie wrote:
I'm sure you're already aware of this, but ALWAYS add the powdered or concentrated lye to water, and NEVER the other way around!

Do whatcha' oughter, add chemicals to water!


^ This!!!!  Remember the saying, "add water to lye and you could die!"  ALWAYS add the crystals to the water; the hotter the water the better.  It's true, the crystals in a plastic jar are a lot more affordable than using a drain cleaner and will work faster.  The ratio that Timm talks about should be just right.  From my experience, for removing dried up fuel residue/crystals and varnish, a lye/water solution will be the most effective
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