200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

budman
got new gens for 252a made 1952 no matter what i do when i light it  flames around bottom wont go away have to shut off old gens have larger flare than new ones seem to fit better on nipple than new ones don't know if i should get flaring tool to make flare bigger on new ones or what
bud newhouse
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hikerduane
Heat the flare end until dull red to soften the metal.
Duane 
Duane-All seasons, year round backpacker and camper.  So many stoves and lanterns, who's counting.
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Rhubarb
Be very careful using heat to anneal the flare on an aluminum generator for a Mil-Spec. Aluminum has a very low melting point, and heat could ruin a perfectly good generator. 
[SMALL-RISING-SUN-RHUBARB]  - Andy
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hikerduane
Ah, that's a milspec?
Duane
Duane-All seasons, year round backpacker and camper.  So many stoves and lanterns, who's counting.
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Dmacp
check the nipple for a gouge and dress it out with sand paper or a jeweler's file.
He's right about the aluminum-try picking up a new generator, they appear on ebay for cheap, plus Cigar Mike might have them.

If you keep re-tightening them, eventually the entire flare will break off.
Dan
ICCC member #604
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holliswood
The nut that holds the generator down could be threading on crooked. Doesn’t take much for them to get crossed threaded. Make sure the nut is threading on correctly every so often when you’re tightening it down. It is possible to over tighten that nut as well.

Edit: If your generator, on the flared end isn’t reaching the generator seat fully, you’ll need to make sure the generator flare and the generator seat are touching each other. My last Milspec fettle was a Armstrong and the replacement generator was not reaching the generator seat. I inserted the generator into the burner assembly fully and then had to gently pull it down and inward until the generator flare and generator seat were touching. From my experience, if those two aren’t touching before tightening the nut, they’ll never line up properly enough to make a solid seating/seal. Take your time and don’t rush it. 
-Fred

ICCC Member #1871
MilSpec-Ops #1278
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #41
Perfection Heater Collectors #2 
CANADIAN BLUES SYNDICATE #57
Coleman Slant Saver #65

snipesfred on Insta
Big Ferd on YT
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Happy Luke
If you over-tighten the jamb nut the top of the nut can crack.
 If you want to anneal aluminum smear some washing up liquid on it, when the liquid blackens the aluminum is hot enough.
I learned this trick restoring my Land Rover.
Luke
 
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rob_pontius
I agree with Fred on this one. I've also had to seat the generator by sight and hold it in place while I thread the nut on. Remember, these parts were made under government contract to the lowest bidding company, not the highest quality.
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Tigerfans2
Had one do that, got aggravated and sat it back for awhile,  tried it again one day and the problem had gone away
Coleman Slant Saver #58
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #8
Coleman Blues 243's #16
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Emorr123
I had the same problem on mine...no matter what I did or which generator I used it still had a flame around the nut. I used high temp Teflon thread sealant to solve the problem.
Eric 
MilspecOps #1272
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #1272
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #1272
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #7
ICCC #1789
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SteveRetherford
could be the flare , could be the nut or the receiving brass end . need to put on the reading glasses n figure out which needs help .
[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
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Tigerfans2
"old gens have larger flare than new ones"
Since you have multiples of new, high quality🙄replacements you might give the flaring tool a shot,  can't hurt.

I'm paraphrasing here ... having served I find "military grade" to not be the highest accolade.
Coleman Slant Saver #58
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #8
Coleman Blues 243's #16
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budman
thanks guys i will try your tips hopefully i will get good results i tell you what if i was on the battle field using one those lanterns i would get that dam person that came up with that great design and say you make it work or i will kick your a_ _ 
bud newhouse
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Chucker
Larger flaring of the gen is expected with older milspec's simply because they have been tightened so many times. 

Just go slowly with the advice above.

BTW Bud, once you get it going you'll curse the designer's again because it is so loud the enemy could walk some mortars in on your position - just from the flippin' combustion! 
Chuck
"...we also glory in our sufferings, because we know that suffering produces perseverance; perseverance, character; and character, hope" Romans 5:3-4
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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Tigerfans2
The designer was a Mr. Aladdin but I don't have his contact info 🙂
Coleman Slant Saver #58
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #8
Coleman Blues 243's #16
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holliswood
@budman 

Any luck?? 🙏🏻🙏🏻
-Fred

ICCC Member #1871
MilSpec-Ops #1278
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #41
Perfection Heater Collectors #2 
CANADIAN BLUES SYNDICATE #57
Coleman Slant Saver #65

snipesfred on Insta
Big Ferd on YT
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bluepen61
I clean and wipe, clean and wipe, both mating surfaces with CF and a clean, cotton rag. Also, clean the jamb nut and the outside flare surface, too. Visually inspect for debris and gouges. Dirt, grit, and any debris is not your friend with flare fittings. And as others have noted, alignment when attaching the genny is also very important, if not critical with the mil-spec's.
John L. Kemmis ICCC #703
Bernz Appreciation Club #007
I collect the Coleman 290 series
and the usual unusual ones.
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zoomkat
You might try dressing the face of the valve nipple and the generator flair using some valve grinding compound. Spin the generator on the nipple maybe using a drill to face the two surfaces to each other.
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