200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

After using my old 220F for an hour or so, I turned the valve all the way to the right and waited for the mantles to go out. They slowly dimmed, then the outside of the lantern caught fire. I presume that’s not normal operation, so I could use some input. My suspicion is fuel is leaking out of the valve. Should I replace the valve packing, or does the entire valve assembly need to be replaced? Or should I be looking elsewhere? An additional symptom: it now won’t light and I get drops forming on the back of the valve knob. Thanks!
If the valve packing is leaking try and snug it up a bit, say 1/4 turn at a time until it seals. Make sure not to get too tight or the valve wheel will be difficult to operate.
looking for 200a 11-56,9-77,2-65 Coleman 275 appreciation syndicate member #0004 ICCC #1262
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #19
Frank appreciation syndicate member #9
[welcome] from Pennsylvania, Chris!
Well, first things first.  Once it cools down, do you see fuel leaking anywhere? You can tighten the packing nut around the valve stem a bit to prevent leaks.
ICCC #1012
🍂🍂🍂 Waiting For Autumn🍂🍂🍂
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As stated above, try tightening the packing nut ever so slightly and check for a leak.  Even better, drain the fount, pump it up, submerge the fount, but at an angle so water doesn't fill the pump tube, and look for air bubbles.  Keep snugging a wee bit at a time until it stops.   If you're able to stop the leak by tightening the packing nut, but not so tight that the valve stem is difficult to turn, you're good.  I  suggest snugging very little at a time because if you go too far and the valve stem is hard to turn, backing off on the packing nut may not loosen the stem.  However, if this happens, you can always try polishing the valve stem with 0000 steel wool when it's fully open. 


Flammable liquids, open flame, what could go wrong?

There is a very fine line between hobby and mental illness. - Dave Barry

Thanks for all the input. I added this to the description above: An additional symptom: it now won’t light and I get drops forming on the back of the valve knob.

I'll try tightening the nut and see if that seals it back up, then work through the other suggestions.


Rotate the pricker to clear the genny if it won't light?
Duane-All seasons, year round backpacker and camper.  So many stoves and lanterns, who's counting.
Just a word on a loose/leaking packing nut...

My worst experience was when the packing was stuck to the packing nut, and as I continued to open the valve after warmup, the packing turned with the shaft and became loose and leaked a bunch of fuel that caught fire. I ended up replacing the packing, which allowed a free and smooth opening and closing action. Best of all, it doesn't leak! 🙂

It was a nasty experience.

I hope you resolved your leak.
John L. Kemmis ICCC #703
Bernz Appreciation Club #007
I collect the Coleman 290 series
and the usual unusual ones.
I would remove the vent and cage, empty the fuel from the fount, pump it up and do a dunk test.  That will show you where you're leak is.
1/4 turn on the nut seems to have solved both the leaking and the non-lighting problem. If I have more trouble later or discover the leak still slowly dripping, I’ll do the dunk test and replace the packing. Thank you for all the help.

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