200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

Orpac86

E23B8933-E73A-4270-9CAD-D9225E8FCF1E.jpeg  I just purchased a complete stove in F canister with all the extra repair parts. 

my problem is Two fold
1. Fuel is going inside pump and leaking out
I replaced pump seat (Small seal with a new one from parts kit) That was dry rotted
2. Burner will not stay running
Fuel will start to flow and then seem to stop flowing but, if I keep a lighter to the vaporized fuel still flowing it will burn as long as I have flame to it. 
I’ve preheated the generator with fuel and then turned on the fuel/opened the needle valve. 
Also I checked the needle valves to make sure it wasn’t damaged and double checked that it seems to be working properly. 
I cleaned out the tank with Berrymans and ran some up through system until it came out nozzle but, nothing was really in the tank like gunk it’s corrosion (was dry when I purchased it)
So should I change out the nozzle/screen/needle?
is there something else I should look at?
Should I buy new seals especially the pump nib seal. 

Any help would be appreciated 
Pic is for example in discussion 

Allen Bradley
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Gasman64
[welcome], Allen, from Pennsylvania! I have yet to work on my stove like that, but very soon, members will be right along to help you.  Before you know it, you'll have it working fine and cooking for you...[cooking]
Steve
ICCC #1012
🍂🍂🍂 Waiting For Autumn🍂🍂🍂
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Majicwrench
The screen in the generator need to be CLEAN. Carb cleaner, compressed air (got safety glasses on right?)  I fought mine that wouldn't stay running for a while till I got that screen clean. And if I recall these take a LOT more pumps that others.

 Stick pump assembly in a pan of water, put finger over little hole in end and try to pump, see if it bubbles from anywhere. If it doesn't (this is good) pip (little rubber seal in brass carrier)  has got to be leaking.
Keith
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macwacs
Minamum  it needs the pip changed. Its the small gasket check valve at the pump bottom. Then the pump gasket itself as well as a new pump leather while your at it would not hurt. Only thing left is the generator screen, clean or replace that. If the burner tip is open it has to work then. The cleaning lever handle should be in the up position.
RMW
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JimL
Welcome to the forum from north Jersey.

>>1. Fuel is going inside pump and leaking out

This needs to be resolved before even thinking of lighting!  If that fuel ignites, it could be very bad.   Also, with that leak, not only are you losing fuel, but also losing pressure.   As long as there's pressure in the fount, the flame can't get inside.  Once pressure drops to atmospheric, I don't know what could happen, but I certainly would not consider it worth the risk.

Keith has a great idea on putting your finger over the hole and pumping it.  Follow that advice.

-Jim

Flammable liquids, open flame, what could go wrong?


There is a very fine line between hobby and mental illness. - Dave Barry
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Orpac86
What’s the best way to clean the screen in the generator?Just soak entire generator assembly with screen inside less the needle?Take screen out and soak?Unroll it and soak?These type of screens scare me not knowing how to treat them and the possibly damaging the needle trying to re-assemble it. Thanks for the advice
Allen Bradley
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macwacs
Myself I remove the needle then the screen. Then soak everything in vinegar or lemon juice with a pinch of salt. Scrub gently with a tooth brush and dry with compressed air carefully. Only unrolled one that was really plugged like a rock. I lost about 1/4 inch of the screen that was completly rotted away. Re rolled it up and used it with no ill effects.
RMW
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JimL
When you roll it back up, roll it up around the pricker rod as tight as you can, avoiding contact with the tip cleaning wire.  It'll already be a tight fit when you put it back and will expand to fill any excess room in the generator, if there is any.

-Jim

Flammable liquids, open flame, what could go wrong?


There is a very fine line between hobby and mental illness. - Dave Barry
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JimL
@Majicwrench

Keith, 

Thanks for that brilliant tip on putting your finger over the end to determine if the leak is at the PIP or the pump itself.  I actually have an M-1950 that exhibits the same symptom of the fuel coming out of the pump.  I was thinking of something like a tiny balloon to create back pressure but no longer needed.  I now know it's the pip, even though I replaced it as well as went with a stronger spring.  This stove worked perfect after replacing it a year or two ago, but just won't seal now.

-Jim

Flammable liquids, open flame, what could go wrong?


There is a very fine line between hobby and mental illness. - Dave Barry
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Coldwaterpaddler
@Orpac86 are you preheating it first? I didn't see where you mentioned that. If you don't preheat it, I could see where the flame might blow out and then you could still have fuel flow. This stove doesn't have an F/A tube like typical Coleman products, but instead just a straight pickup tube, so it needs to be preheated per instructions. Just a thought.

If that's not the problem, ensure you have adequate pressure buy pumping the recommended 30 pumps and then, with the stove still cold, open the cap and be sure you have a large hiss of air coming out. Sometimes the pip isn't sealing well and you don't have as much pressure as you think you have. Happened to me many times until I figured that out.

Third, did you cycle the tip cleaner lever several times to ensure the vaporizer tip is pretty clean?

Also, be sure the tip cleaner lever is in the up position for operation. (Moving the lever down pushes the tip cleaning wire up into the vaporizer tip and that will restrict fuel flow a lot and cause the symptoms you describe. 

If all of the above is fine, then you probably have carbon build-up in the vaporizer screen (as suggested earlier) and it can flake off and clog the vaporizer tip. A good cleaning and possibly a replacement screen would fix this.

This is a pretty simple stove overall, so there can't be too much wrong with it if you're this far along. You're almost there!
Stovie-Steve
"Don't let the weather run your life" - Steve
The Coleman Blues - #95
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Orpac86
Thank you very much for the adviceI was very hesitant to do anything with the vaporizer or screen. I did remove the vaporizer to check the needle but just put it back together. Seemed to flow fuel better for a moment then seemed to stop the flow again. The pip seal I replaced with one from the parts kits but, it may be hardened after almost 80yrs.
Allen Bradley
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Orpac86
JimLAppreciate the advice on the screen. I’ve accidentally messed up cleaning rod needles on lanterns so I was very hesitant about working on this one until I knew more about it.
Allen Bradley
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Orpac86
ColdwaterPaddlerI was preheating sometimes with an external fuel (for longer heating) and then sometimes with fuel that came out like instructions said. 
Yep, was pumping 30 pumps but at that pressure it would start to back flow up and out the pump handleBecame a little dicey at that point of trying to make it run. 
I am going to order NeW pip and cap seals to see if that helps in overall performance and as well try to clean the vaporizer screen. 
Do you know of dis-assembly instructions/order instead of just tearing into it?
Thanks for your advice and everyone’s on the forum. This is my first post, Mike at OCP said if I had questions to bring it to the group.
Allen Bradley
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Coldwaterpaddler
Oh, yeah. If you've used the decades old pips, that's probably your problem. All if the originals I have are rock hard. For disassembly check some of my M-1942 blog posts at Sklcolorado.wordpress.com and let me know if you have questions.
Stovie-Steve
"Don't let the weather run your life" - Steve
The Coleman Blues - #95
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salukispeed
You have the right idea and the Pip is a normal maintenance item that must seal completely or fire can happen. Some try stretching the Pip spring But if you have a good pliable pip it is unnecessary and the pressure helps keep it sealed. Be sure the point in the pump barrel where the pip seals is clean and smooth too. even a pencil eraser might help there. 
Bob
ICCC 1868
Perfection appreciation #10
Milspec 65252
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Majicwrench
What they said about old pip.
Getting a parts kit from Old Coleman Parts?

I just cleaned screen as it was in generator, carb cleaner and compressed air.  I don't like taking things apart if I don't need to.
Keith
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Chucker
Good advice above.

If you run it and it gives you fits with the flame, double check the vaporizer screen. Some guys would run leaded gasoline and after awhile some lead will lodge in the screen/mesh and has to be melted out - or just replace the screen. 
Chuck
"Pleasant words are a honeycomb, Sweet to the soul and healing to the bones." Proverbs 16:24
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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Orpac86
Cold water paddlerThanks for the adviceI’m going to order new stuff from OCPAnd try again. I did check out your site and it had some way good stuffNeed to do some more reading
Allen Bradley
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Orpac86
SalukispeedThanks as well for the adviceWill be ordering new seals soonReady to see it runMy dad was excited to see it and he wondered at what stories it could tell
Allen Bradley
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Orpac86
Magic wrenchI soaked I’m the vaporizer in Berrymans cleaner and looking at both ends it looked okThe tip that the needle seats into had carbon buildup though. Cleaned it pretty good but, if I still have issues then I will swamp it out. Thanks for the advice and I as well hate to dos-assemble too much of not necessary
Allen Bradley
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Orpac86
Chucker Soaked the vaporizer in cleaner and cleaned out the nozzle which really seemed to have carbon in itThanks for the advice
Allen Bradley
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