200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.
avj7209

For those of us that have an inverted lantern, they certainly are a different beast from the standard Coleman lantern.  Disassembly can seem daunting, but luckily iceiceguy was kind enough to provide an overview for some basic disassembly here in the "How To" section.

My Thermos inverted loved to only stay lit for a little bit then die out, so I figured I would take it apart and take a look at the valve and f/a tube.  Iceiceguy's warning was ever so true regarding the extremely thin walls of the f/a tube.  While trying to unscrew mine from the valve, I sheared the f/a tube clear off leaving only a nub in the valve body....DOH!!!! 

Parts for these lanterns are not common and after a little thought, I came up with a solution that worked swimmingly and figured I would share here.  Be sure to keep the brass screen from the original inverted f/a tube.

1) Drill out the old f/a tube remains with 3/32 drill bit down to the bottom of the f/a tube recess in the valve body.

2)  Next and using the same drill bit, continue drilling into the valve body as we will be adapting a new tube.

3)  Using an old Coleman 530 or 200a f/a tube, remove the outer tube of the f/a tube assembly to reveal the inner tube (which is just about the proper length and similar in size of the original inverted f/a tube).  For this I put the nut at the end of the f/a tube in a vice a wiggled the f/a tube until it released.

4)  Get your tap and die set and locate the 6-32 tap and die.

5)  Take the inner tube from the Coleman 530/200a f/a assembly and create a 6-32 thread on one end.  The wall thickness of this tube is much better than the inverted f/a tube.

6)  Now create a 6-32 thread in the hole of the valve we previously drilled.

7)  Install the newly created f/a tube... but wait, we are not done yet!

8)  Just above the threaded area of the valve body where the  f/a tube is, drill a 1/16 hole in the new f/a tube on one side.  The original f/a tube had a very small hole which was prone to getting plugged up easily.  This new sized hole should help alleviate similar issues.

9)  Using the brass screen from the original f/a tube (and be sure it is clean), slide this over the newly drilled hole close to the valve body.

10)  Install the valve and go on about your inverted fettle.

I should've taken some pictures of the drilling and threading, but you get the idea from the above information and pictures below.  Using this method brought my inverted back to life and from having to hunt down a new valve. 

Note:  I did notice that it appears to take a few less initial pumps when lighting, probably due to the enlarged hole drilled on the new f/a tube. Hope this helps out someone else down the road in the event they run into a lost or sheared off f/a tube problem!

Sheared off F/A Tube [frown]

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(Sorry for no picts of this step [frown] ... using your 6-32 tap and die, thread the new f/a tube
and valve body as indicated in the steps listed in the post above, then assemble.)


IMG_1683r.jpg 

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IMG_1685r2.jpg 

IMG_1687r.jpg 

IMG_1688r.jpg 

IMG_1689r.jpg 



HOUSTON... WE HAVE LIFT OFF!!!

IMG_1691r.jpg 

• Tony
• ICCC member #1201
• Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate Member #0064
• The Coleman Blue's 243's #030
Quote
avj7209
If you don't have to, good for you!!! I have been hoping the same for a while, but after weeks of soaking the fount in denatured alcohol and still having issues... I had to break it down.  Not too happy that I messed up the original f/a tube, but am very happy with the results of this retrofit to get her going again.  I've had it lit for a few hours today and haven't had any issues. 

Like originally noted, it seems to take less pumps when doing the lighting ritual (most likely due to the 1/16 hole).  If you pump too much it will flood a little at the initial light up.  Just pump up a bit less at initial light up, throttle as necessary, and you should be good to go with this mod!
• Tony
• ICCC member #1201
• Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate Member #0064
• The Coleman Blue's 243's #030
Quote
aephilli
Any ideas what size the original hole is? 1/32? Maybe split the difference between the larger hole and the original, to get less clogging but still have closer to the original lighting characteristics? Just brainstorming (brain farting) here.
Albert
"At least it's not a complete wretched pulsating ball of fail and suck."
dpatten

Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate Supporter #42
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avj7209
aephilli - No worries and thank you!  In regards to splitting the difference in the size of the orifice by the valve, I used what I had available and perhaps splitting the difference would achieve a closer to original lighting.  However, the larger orifice should greatly offset the all too common plugging up that this model is often cursed with.  As the original orifice was so small, it didn't take much to cause a plugged hole.

All -To clarify on the design of the inverted F/A tube, they are more like quasi-F/A tubes when compared to the Coleman counterpart.  They are very simplistic and are comprised of only the tube with an orifice by the valve and an orifice at the end of the tube.  Inverted F/A tubes have no rod or outer tube.
• Tony
• ICCC member #1201
• Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate Member #0064
• The Coleman Blue's 243's #030
Quote
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