200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.
johneliot
I was at my wife’s uncles house in Friday Harbour in the San Juan Islands.  As I walked into his garage I looked on the wall and I saw the wickie I’ve been looking for!  An Embury Pilot #2. Pictures will come, but I need to take the burner off.  It won’t turn at all. I’ve sprayed it with kroil.  Still won’t turn yet.  Any other Ideas how I can remove it?

John

“Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.” 
― Albert Einstein

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JimL
It'll come off, but the main item you need now is patience.  Don't try forcing it or you may be looking for a burner replacement.  Let penetrating oil do its job.  You can also try using a very fine screwdriver and working it up, but you need to do this very gently.  Patience is the key here since it rusted in place.

-Jim

I wish Noah had swatted the two mosquitoes.
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johneliot
We always look for a quicker easier way and when it comes down to it, its just patience and wait.  I guess there’s no  shortcuts here!

John

“Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.” 
― Albert Einstein

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atomicbee
yes let it soak in oil more and gently try to turn the burner cap off so you can get to the burner assembly Click image for larger version - Name: Burner base.jpg, Views: 84, Size: 138.08 KB Click image for larger version - Name: Wick base.jpg, Views: 82, Size: 48.58 KB
Bally Bill Coleman

Life is too short,smile while you still have teeth!
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DougA
Also an Evaporust soak for a few days can do wonders.
DougA  ... fettler and keeper of a family collection of nickel: a 249, a pair of 237s, and a 1938 228B, along with a late 1979 red 200a.  Then two more turned up, a 1941 243A and a 1944 242C, and now there's a b-day 200A lantern, too!.
Coleman Blues Member #92.
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #009.
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johneliot
Got it!  Twisting back and forth got it off. There was no rust. I think that it was kerosene/lamp oil that bonded it on.  The burner is soaking in citric acid. 
I’m probably going to keep the patina look but I’d like to take of the rust on the inside of the vent.  I can soak it in citric acid but usually when i do this I take a brass brush and scrub the rust off.  I can’t do this in the top of the chimney. Any thoughts on how to accomplish this task?

John

“Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.” 
― Albert Einstein

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atomicbee
great you removed the burner in one piece, I would not tinker with the top hat/vent rust issue only because you have to bend the 4 small metal tabs on the top to disassemble and there's a 50/50 chance one or more tabs will snap off. I attempted to do this on a Dietz Monarch and I broke 2 tabs in the process. Does the wick wheel spin freely and did you check to see if it leaks?
Bally Bill Coleman

Life is too short,smile while you still have teeth!
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johneliot
The wick wheel spins great.  I have not put anything in the fount as of yet. 

John

“Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.” 
― Albert Einstein

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BSAGuy
I had a similar lantern that I recently cleaned up, John.  The burner was stuck like yours, but some gentle tapping and a little Kroil did the trick.  After I removed the burner, I soaked it in vinegar/water for about 24 hours with periodic brass wire brushing.  Came out pretty nice.  I stripped paint with electrolysis and then completed with vinegar/water and citric acid soak to finish paint removal and clean up rusty spots. 

atomicbee is right.  You really don't want to disassemble this puppy.  As he said, complete disassembly requires the straightening (and then re-bending) of the four thin metal tabs onthe top and they will never be as flat as originally from the factory and one or more might break.

As painful as it is, I just left some pretty heavy rust on the underside (not visible) of the chimney vent, painted the rest of the lantern, and moved on.

Here is my before and after.  The globe was much sootier from years of kero burning.  I wish I had made the before photo before I washed the globe.

For paint, I used Dupli-Color Honda Hampsted Green.  The new color is not as fun as a nice red or deep blue, but I wanted the lantern as close to original color as possible.

[cDeWdjC]   

[5durkvq]
- Courtenay
Be Prepared
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atomicbee
BSA Guy has the right approach to your restoration with some great advice, make sure to install a new wick to make sure the wheel functions correctly and check for leaks before you complete your restoration. If the lantern leaks coat bottom with clear varnish and let dry for a least 3-5 days before you fill it with Kerosene or Lamp oil. Please post some pics when your finished-Best regards
Bally Bill Coleman

Life is too short,smile while you still have teeth!
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johneliot
Getting closer.  Is a cotton or fiberglass recommended?  Also, what width is used for the lantern.  The wick it came with is still usable and long enough even after trimming it. I am searching for lamp oil and I am  hoping I can get something here without ordering online. 

John

“Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.” 
― Albert Einstein

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JimL
If the wick is still usable, use it.  For lamp oil, you can go to <insert a department store name> and get it.  WallyWorld will have it with their wickie section as well as the outdoor section for citronella and variants.

-Jim

I wish Noah had swatted the two mosquitoes.
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atomicbee
yes use wick for sure, FYI some reason Lamp oil does not burn as bright as some of my kerosene lanterns
Bally Bill Coleman

Life is too short,smile while you still have teeth!
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