This is a concatenation of three posts I made about the stove on the Classic Camp Stoves (CCS) forum over a couple of days.
This is a Gates Folding Stove. There is another on in the reference gallery at CCS here:
Mine appears to be identical except for the wording on the badge. Mine reads
Gates Folding Stove
Parented 1915 other patents pending
W. J. Baker Co.
I have found two patents awarded to Frank Gates. On the first he lists himself as a resident of Lents, Oregon and the patent is assigned to Frank Gates and William J. Baker of Newport, Kentucky. It was filed in December of 1914 and awarded in June of 1915
Click in the middle of the drawing to scroll through the patent.
The second lists Gates as residing in Los Angles, California and the patent is not assigned to anyone else. It was filed in July 1917 and awarded in December if 1918
Both my stove and the other in the reference gallery conform to the 1918 patent rather than the 1915. From the information on the badges it looks like Gates parted from the Baker company and started having the AD Stove Company produce his stoves. W.J. Baker is still a going firm
A couple of inquiries to them have gone unanswered.
Since my stove lists the 1915 patent but not the 1918 one and was made by Baker rather than AD I'm guessing it was made in 1917 after Gates had filed the patent but before it was awarded.
The paint appears to be original. Included were the pump, skate key, pre-heating torch and funnel. The funnel has been modified (read squashed) to fit within the case. It is similar to many I've found in early PW or AGM stoves and I suspect is a common off-the-shelf product of the period. The skate key works the fuel valve (square hole) and the wrench portion fits both the gland nut and fuel cap.
Folded the stove is 9"X8"X5". The big hex nut at the bottom of the picture is a plumbing union that allows the tank to pivot into the case for storage. More on this brilliant design feature later.
On the primary burner vapor enters through a hole in the side of the burner, red arrow, flows across the tube cast in the center of the burner and comes up at an opening at the blue arrow.
On top of that goes this thin steel plate.
Then the burner top piece. The secondary burner is just a simple cast bowl.
A sheet steel tube is riveted to each burner, the one on the secondary just a hair bigger in diameter that allows the two burners to connect when the stove is opened. In the primary burner this damper is the on/off mechanism for the secondary burner. Annoyingly the bend in the handle is at right angles to the damper, unlike modern valves. When the handle is parallel to the tube the damper is closed.
The control valve/orifice is this brass piece. The skate key opens the valve, the orifice is in the right end of the casting. The packing was still good enough to seal just by doing up the gland nut.
Valve shaft is a simple steel piece that serves as both pricker and shut off.
In the long piece of pipe that serves as a vaporizer I was surprised to find this mesh insert. I resisted the temptation to pull it out to see if it was clean.
This is the mating face of the plumbing union. It may have done the job when new, but it leaked horribly no matter how much I tightened it even after polishing the mating faces. . I finally fashioned a lead washer and that worked but only if the union is tightened with a wrench. I may run the stove for a realistic cooking time to see how hot this union gets to see if a viton seal would work. Since it is connected directly to the vaporizer with iron fittings I don't think that solution is viable.
In operation the vapor is expected to jump the gap between the orifice on the left and the hole in the burner. Not unlike some early PWs I have.
Here it is chugging along at full throttle. It took a huge amount of pre-heat to get to this point and operation was never completely reliable. It is possible the orifice has been enlarged by overtightening the valve as most of the time there was a lot of yellow flame, especially when running just the primary burner. I also had trouble maintaining pressure. The small bore pump, method of attachment and fill cap/air screw arrangement make for fiddly pressurization.
Hard to read, but for completeness here's the badge.
Not satisfied with how it was running I made another attempt on this stove today. Tired of fighting the pump and air screw set up, at least for now I bodged this together. (anyone got a source for replacement glass. dropped the gauge during assembly.)
This is at 20 psi after running for about six minutes. Started with the preheat torch, when it burned out I lit the burner, still took about 6 minutes running before it started burning blue.
Any increase in throttle caused the flame at the jet to go horizontal towards the back of the stove and the burner to go out. When running sounded like a buzz bomb.
I dropped the pressure to 15 psi and got this.
Much better pattern on the burner. Half a turn on the valve got us to here.
Another 1/8 of a turn and this happens.
It looks like I was wrong about it needing high pressure, I think I still had air leaks leading me astray. I still think the orifice may be a bit oversize but given how infrequently this stove will be used I think I may declare success and put it away for now.
I just couldn't leave it without knowing..
At this level of flame, slightly more than low, nowhere near high.
One quart of tap water from 76F to 212F in eleven minutes. I chose that flame setting because it was the highest that didn't wrap around the sides of the pot. If I had cranked it up I suspect about a 4-5 minute boil time but I didn't want to melt the plastic pot handle.
I also found that I had a surprising amount of control over the secondary burner by adjusting the damper. I could go from a low simmer flame to something hot enough to do useful cooking.
I also measured the temp of the troublesome plumbing union during this burn. The hottest it got was 102F. Warm but still not too hot to touch. I think that means I can cut a viton gasket to replace the lead one and then maybe have a joint that doesn't require a wrench to tighten.
All-in-all I think if I had bought this stove new a hundred years ago I would have been satisfied with the purchase.
North West Florida
Reese’s Law of Thermodynamics: At temperatures below incandescence hot metal looks exactly like cold metal.