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Nightlight for Aliens
Hi folks!
I just recently used CitrStrip can spray paint remover to remove paint on a 220 Fount.
Turned out great...
The steel looks very good. I did a 500 grit wet sand and all rust is 90% removed, some small orange peal of barely noticeable rust that I will have to sand out.


 fount.jpg  Fount close up.jpg 

I like the steel look. So I have decided to refund my Rust-Oleum Painters Touch 2X Gloss Hunter Greenm and just clear coat the Fount.
Has anyone done this before?
How should I just clear coat the fount and not paint it? 🙂
What is the best clear coat to buy for it? Rust-Oleum 2x gloss clear? or just regular Rust-Oleum gloss clear coat?
Should I use high temp gloss clear coat?
I want to put the decal on it then clear it ( I think that is best?)
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JeepJeepster
Hmm, never thought of doing that but I like it. 

I think you’ll find that you need to cure the clear coat so that its fuel resistant. When you cure it, the clear will turn brown. Hopefully Im wrong but thats what happened when I cured a clear coated frame. 
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rob_pontius
You should use a high temp clear such as VHT. It is high temp, bit it is also fuel resistant. Other types of clear coat will come off once they come into contact with fuel.
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Nightlight for Aliens
Thanks for the replies... 
Do you think I can polish it with auto polish before clear, or just fine sand as much as I can keeping it 'clean' so the clear can stick?

JeepJeepster, when you say cure, meaning oven bake it?

And do you guys think I should put 2 coats, sanding in between ? ( which would be a good time to drop the Coleman Decal on it).
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rob_pontius
I would avoid polishes before clear coating it. If the surface is too smooth, the clear has nothing to attach itself to, causing it to lift over time. Some polishes have protectants such as a light wax base that will prevent the clear from sticking as well. As for the decal, either way should be fine.
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Nightlight for Aliens
rob_pontius wrote:
I would avoid polishes before clear coating it. If the surface is too smooth, the clear has nothing to attach itself to, causing it to lift over time. Some polishes have protectants such as a light wax base that will prevent the clear from sticking as well. As for the decal, either way should be fine.

Thank you.
Clear gloss primer would be ideal 😃
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NWMike
I don't have a lot of experience with VHT so I'll leave that to others.  Rustoleum clear gloss engine is also fuel resistant and polishes up very well with 2000 wet paper.  
I've been told that with VHT the results you get can vary depending on the temperature range of the paint you choose. I would think anything good to 500 F should be good for founts.
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Nightlight for Aliens
I have 7 days wait for the Decal I ordered last night. I'm just pondering on what to prep the tank with.. the orange peal barely rust fount as seen in the pict below.. I think I'm going to just sand with 500 again then 1000. I WANT a mirror image before clear but I also want the clear to stick. ( no paint, just clear ).
So I would be happy with a sand pattern (If I need to have for clear to stick)
-------
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-----
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----- like the brushed look on the collar.

I had this prepped ready for primer, and was literally shaking the can, when I thought to put the collar and cage resting on top to have a look.. and just was like, why am I going to paint this? Then I went to get the vent, put it on, asked someone elses opinion.. and we both said.. "I like the steel look better".

I'm pretty sure I'm just going to sand the crap out of it and clean it and clear it.
Fount close up.jpg
fount.jpg 
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outlawmws
I like it!
[Logo%20Outlaw-half]  Coleman Blue's 243's #341


“A Human Being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, give orders, take orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook  a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly.  Specialization is for insects.”            - Lazarus Long


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Fuzzy
Be mindful of the decal material if you are going to clear coat over it and then oven cure it....the decal may not survive as you intended it to.
Chad

275 Appreciation Syndicate member #0244
Mil-Spec Syndicate #0244
Canadian Blues Member #27


Looking for birthday lanterns:  5/04, 6/06

Quality / Inexpensive / Quick - Normally you only get two

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Nightlight for Aliens
Fuzzy wrote:
Be mindful of the decal material if you are going to clear coat over it and then oven cure it....the decal may not survive as you intended it to.

I was wondering about that, thank you so much!

Think I'm just going to sand it nice and smooth to get the orange peel out. Change to a higher number sand paper grit.. then clear it.
I'm really tempted to sand it to 2000 grit and then clear coating it.
I have done some 500 grit sanding on it today.. it is working 🙂 

Honestly pondering on just sanding and polishing it, clear the decal only.
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holliswood
Seems like if a high gloss clearcoat is applied first, then a semi-glosscoat over the top of that will yield a matte finish. Unless you like the blinding shine. 
Spending more $$ on GPA’s than my meds
snipesfred on Insta
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Nightlight for Aliens
holliswood wrote:
Seems like if a high gloss clearcoat is applied first, then a semi-glosscoat over the top of that will yield a matte finish. Unless you like the blinding shine. 

Kind of all depends on how well I sand it LOL.
I had to get a 220 grit on it just to get that orange peal off.. 500 was a waste of time. So I have 1 sheet of 500 left to work that out. Couple of 1000 and 1200. 
My Coleman Decal should arrive today along with my 530 stove AF Tube.

If all else fails, I'll spray with Gloss Hunter Green, but I'm confident it will turn out nice anyway. 
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macwacs
Why not chrome plate?
RMW
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Nightlight for Aliens
macwacs wrote:
Why not chrome plate?
RMW
That would be nice! I would love to do that. How much do you think that would cost?
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ShootinAce
Wow, I really like that look too!

Chrome plating is a great idea as well, but not sure if the cost would be justified, unless it'd be on my Birthday lantern (3-82, which I'm still trying to find 😕).
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Coast to Coast
Brushed steel, or a circular machined finish, would look cool too.
-Bird- Milwaukee, WI.

ICCC#1776

The Coleman Blue‘s 243’s #143
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Rhubarb
Just a word of caution, I've heard of a few folks who have tried to use rattle can clear on a bare fount, and they have had limited success. Apparently the the clear coats don't seem to like to adhear to the bare metal...

Your mileage may vary.
Andy in NV ICCC #1253 
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Nightlight for Aliens
I'm going to do some sanding tomorrow, update some pics : )
Thanks Rhubarb for that info. I have been holding off on buying the clear coat just because of that fact.
Maybe I should dip it https://kansashydrographics.com/

Kansas Hydrographics
4350 S Southeast Blvd. Wichita, KS 67210 Mon - Fri  9am - 6pm CST
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