200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.
jWoodyNE
Hello All!  I just picked up my first Coleman stove, which I believe is a 426B.  Shout out to @Gand28 , @Majicwrench , and @Flyboyfwa for their thoughts in another thread that pushed me to go get this gal from Hickman, NE, about 30 min away.  Paid $15 and the nice young lady said it was her father's stove, Dennis.
from_front.jpg 
I'm looking for input as to how badly deteriorated the unit currently is. I'm not particularly experienced with metal, so I'm hoping to learn a bit. Main usage for stove will be for backyard dinner hosting, running on profane.  Might get usage car camping on CF, if it'll fit into the Mustang, LoL.  My goal of repair/restore is simply to have a safe and reliable user.

Here she is:
all_3_burn_blue.jpg  All three burners burn blue center_burner.jpg  Burner looks good.  Not sure how serious the corrosion is on the venturi-looking thing. corrosion1.jpg Not sure how serious the corrosion is on under main burner.corrosion2.jpg Same thing with corrosion here.from_front.jpg Grates are pretty straightleft_burner.jpg Left burner.light_rust_inside.jpg Some rust on the interior.mystery_part.jpg Mystery part laying loose in case.right_burner.jpg Right burner.some_ghost_flame_center.jpg Tiny ghost flame from center of main burner.stove_side_tank.jpg Stove-side of tank.welded_repair_on_tank.jpg  Repair to front of tank.
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When I initially de-fueled it, I got only the tiniest trace of rust fines in my coffee filter, probably just a few micrograms.  The pump was well lubricated, and the unit started easily on first try.

I'm mainly curious as to how serious the corrosion is on the photos, and how to properly address it.  I've seen other threads on the forum that make me think I need to get some de-ruster and soak the main burner tube and Venturi-looking thing.    I'd also like to know how to address the rust inside the main case, I think just use wire brush to remove the surface rust and leave it be?  I've seen some people use high-temp paint to protect grates and burner tubes, if that's something to will extend the stove's life I'd be interested in doing it.

I'm really excited to get started into Coleman stoves, and even if this one doesn't live very long as-is, I'm sure it won't be my last.
 "qui tacet consentire videtur" - He who is silent, when he ought to have spoken and was able to, is taken to agree.
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Majicwrench
Tank would be my biggest concern, if that repair fails is going to spray fuel on whomever is cooking. Is repair epoxy?? Solder?? Does it look like a rust hole was repaired??

 
Some of the gang have really gone gungho painting and cleaning up 426's, if it was me I would just clean it up a bit and use it as is. Three burners rock.
Keith
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Gand28
Fry up some bacon, get grease all over the rust and you’ll be fine!

I am a little concerned about the tank repair. Usually one hole means others are starting to creep through. If you run it with a propane adapter mostly then that’s not a huge issue. But the B and C model are the only ones with that size tank and they can be hard to find. Be on the lookout for one. 
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
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hikerduane
Burner parts could be cleaned if you think dinner guests might get turned off by a meal cooked on it.  Tank is the  biggest concern.  Like the guys mentioned, can run the stove as is since it is running great except some concern over the tank.  See if our sponsor, Oldcolemanparts has a tank when using gas.  I just use a wire brush on the burner parts.  The one burner with the flame out the center may only need to be tightened a little or top burner plate moved slightly or centered better.
Duane
Duane-All seasons, year round backpacker and camper.  So many stoves who's counting.
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jWoodyNE
Roger on tank condition being potentially hazardous. The repair seemed metal to me, so solder? I'm not sure exactly what they were repairing but a hole would be my guess.

Understanding that this tank is a different size than the other models, if I get a different replacement tank can I simply Dremel a new mounting slot to preserve my CF usage option?
 "qui tacet consentire videtur" - He who is silent, when he ought to have spoken and was able to, is taken to agree.
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Eel
So you've got some great news - you got a nice stove, it works well enough as-found to get a clean flame from the main burner (and likely from the aux burners if you tried to light them).  SO you can use it in the backyard for the summer while you consider how much cleanup you might want to do to it in the winter.
I don't see any lurking disasters from your photos.  "The rust looks solid and will hold up for many more years."  Your decal is intact and nobody's dropped the lid over a running burner.  The wings are both still green.  Even the standard-issue paint scar in front of the main burner is mild.  The grates look to be in fine shape.  The tank holds air and pumps up and generates!  The bunsen is insect-free!  What a find!

The thing that would give most joy for least effort is to wire-brush the burner rings while preserving their stacking and top/bottom orientation, and being gentle with the screw when reinstalling them.  The second most joyful thing will be a pass through the corner car wash - the one with the wand and brush.
Different people do different levels of cleanup, from none to "FFR" full Frank rebuild - keep in mind that you intend to use the stove and grease gets around, so factory-plus beauty will be a fleeting thing.  If you decide to strip and repaint, search here for "electrolysis" and for rattlecan paint suggestions.  Lye is effective at cleaning manifolds and burners.

Do you want to spend your precious time time restoring and coating some metal, or do you want to use that time to make (several nice) dinners?  I vote for seafood gumbo to excess!

PS You can tell the mystery part isn't for a Coleman - not enough rust... 

EEL Eclectic Lanterns, div.  Doofenshmirtz-EEL Incorporated.

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Eel
jWoodyNE wrote:
Roger on tank condition being potentially hazardous.

I missed that point!  I'd tag any metal repair as HAZARDOUS: these fuels burn in free air.
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Understanding that this tank is a different size than the other models, if I get a different replacement tank can I simply Dremel a new mounting slot to preserve my CF usage option?

Yes.  Yes, you can, my user 426B is set up by a PO this way - fits a 413 tank. 

EEL Eclectic Lanterns, div.  Doofenshmirtz-EEL Incorporated.

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Ridge Runner
Hi there,
In the electrical trade the mystery part is called “bat wings” made by Erico/Caddy. They’re used to fasten electrical cable or boxes to beam flanges, threaded rod or the tie wire that supports suspended ceiling grid. The little banjo-eyes are for attaching other threaded fasteners or hangars. Definitely not a Coleman part.

Best of luck with your stove clean-up!
— L.J.

-- L.J.
Don't reinvent the wheel, build a better mouse trap!
"Ain’t no need to watch where I’m goin’; just need to know where I’ve been" -Tow Mater

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jWoodyNE
Found John's tank chart which says a 418, 418B, 420, 426, 426A, 426B, 426C, 443 will all mount up on the 426B.  Time to start hitting garage sales and thrift stores.

http://intlccc.net/wordpress/live/iccc_docs/public/Stove%20fuel%20tank%20descriptions.pdf

I appreciate everyone's input. I think I'll take @Eel 's advice on just cleaning her up a bit.  I won't fire it again on CF until tank is replaced.  From the measurements on the tanks at OCP, I don't think any of them would work.  I do have a local propane shop that carries Coleman parts, I'm going to check with them tomorrow.

@Ridgerunner , LoL.  They are aptly named then 🙂 
 "qui tacet consentire videtur" - He who is silent, when he ought to have spoken and was able to, is taken to agree.
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Flyboyfwa
Congrats. I think you will enjoy that stove. That has the 3-position feet. 1959-1960 according to the book. I would agree with others about the tank. It looks like OCP at the top of the page has many tanks for sale. Look up "stove tank". Link below.  I have nothing but good things to say about OCP.  I think you should be able to find a good replacement for your repaired one. The cost of a replacement is much cheaper than a trip to the hospital. As to the level of repair/restore, do as much as you think you need to.

Because I don't have the level of experience as many here I like to disassemble and clean as much as possible to ensure that there are no surprises and that everything looks safe. One thing that I have learned from doing this is replace the cap gaskets. Look up "dunk test". LanternLab has a lot of great videos on YouTube that have been invaluable to me. I believe there is one about stove repair. Enjoy your stove, just keep them separated from each other. They like to multiply.

Summertime is Gathering time. There should be some near you. These are a great way to learn a lot about Coleman stuff.


Stove Tank
  http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1
Andy
Mil-Spec Ops #199
275 Appreciation Syndicate #1970
ICCC #1741
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Eel
jWoodyNE wrote:
Found John's tank chart which says a 418, 418B, 420, 426, 426A, 426B, 426C, 443 will all mount up on the 426B. 

An excellent find!  Unfortunately the 426B is the most common stove on that list...  and then, like Timm says, you buy it for its tank, then you have another 426B for which you seek a tank.

EEL Eclectic Lanterns, div.  Doofenshmirtz-EEL Incorporated.

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NYGfan
For the time being order a propane adapter and use it on propane til you find a replacement tank. 426s rock! Congrats. Oh yeah. You'll need separate shelves for stoves just a warning. 
Joe
Mil-SpecOps #0219
Stovie and Damn proud of it

 
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BSAGuy
That's not rusty at all, just character.  You can just nock the active rust off and carry on or you can strip it all down and repaint.  Same for the case and the burner and manifold.  As others have said, use propane or replace the tank.  Life's too short to cook with a potential Molotov cocktail between you and your cooking surface. 
- Courtenay
Be Prepared
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