200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.
atomicbee
Hello,I had a post about the rebuild(railroad lantern) but I deleted it by mistake,I have cleaned everything up and found a wick at a hobby store but it will not feed into the burner? Maybe wrong thickness of wick? or burn the top and side edges of wick? maybe put some tape on end so the teeth rollers can grab the wick? any help would be helpful-Thank you as always! Pic#2 with old wick jammed in burner Click image for larger version - Name: DWP 1 with globe.jpg, Views: 147, Size: 135.88 KB Click image for larger version - Name: Burner 1.jpg, Views: 145, Size: 114.00 KB
 Bally Coleman Bill
Quote
DougA
You might have some rust in the wick mechanism.  I'd put some Kroil or whatever your preferred free-em-up substance is in there and let it set a while.

Edited to add: the wick may also be rusted to the channel in which it sits.  That is a common problem in the big wickie kerosene heaters that have sat a long time.  Try carefully working a thin tool like a knife or small putty knife between the wick and the channel guide to free the wick from the metal.

Further edited: OK, so I see you have the old one out, it's the new one you're having trouble with.  (I read things too fast at times)  It looks like in your picture that the wick is a bit wide for that burner.  You can try trimming it down but it will cause it to unravel; I tried that once in a wickie and it just made a mess and the loose threads from the trimmed wick got tangled in the mechanism.  I'd say go to Miles Stair or Kirkman's web sites and get the correct size wick.
DougA  ... fettler and keeper of a family collection of nickel: a 249, a pair of 237s, and a 1938 228B, along with a late 1979 red 200a.  Then two more turned up, a 1941 243A and a 1944 242C, and now there's a b-day 200A lantern, too!.
Coleman Blues Member #92.
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #009.
Quote
atomicbee
Yes removed old wick and all the strings wrapped around shaft and teeth.nice and smooth now just wont pull wick all the way to top
 Bally Coleman Bill
Quote
Smudge
And, I've found it helps to soak the wick with kerosene first, and then try to feed it into the burner.
Also, I think all those flat wicks have same thickness, But, as DougA mentioned, the proper width is essential.
"If all the beasts were gone, men would die from a great loneliness of spirit, for whatever happens to the beasts,
also happens to the man. Whatever befalls the Earth, befalls the sons of the Earth.” - Chief Seattle

ICCC # 1726  -  Bernz0matiC Appreciation Club #057
Quote
campinut
What is the width of the wick?..campinut..
Like a moth at night, I am attracted to the light!..7/7/1964...Russ, from Missouri..
Quote
mikew
Have not owned that style of Embury hot blast, but believe it came in two sizes.  Not sure which one yours is.  The smaller one uses a 5/8 wide wick and the larger uses either a 3/4 or 7/8 wide wick.  Agree with Doug, the wick in the pic is too wide and could possibly have slightly bulged the wick guide chute so the gears aren't getting the bite they should.  May try to GENTLY squeeze the wick guide chute just a smidgen so the gears bit into the wick a little deeper.  Also may help feeding to have the wick already damp with kero to reduce friction of the wick movement in the guide chute.
Mike
"... at evening time, it shall be light." Zechariah 14:7

Slant Saver #05; Milspec Ops 0045
Quote
Smudge
I've several roles of wick material in various thicknesses; More than I'll ever need for a lifetime. Let me know the width you need, and if I have it, PM me, and I'll sent it to you.
"If all the beasts were gone, men would die from a great loneliness of spirit, for whatever happens to the beasts,
also happens to the man. Whatever befalls the Earth, befalls the sons of the Earth.” - Chief Seattle

ICCC # 1726  -  Bernz0matiC Appreciation Club #057
Quote
atomicbee
Ok I wet the wick in kerosene and still still not passing past gears,the wick chute is about 1/2 wide .i will see if cripping the center of chute will help.Thx everyone!
 Bally Coleman Bill
Quote
Chucker
If you do pull the wick again check the gear shaft. You may have some stray threads wrapped around it. Then again, maybe you already checked that. 
Chuck
"Stop being angry, and forget about getting back at people; do not worry -- it only causes harm." Ps. 37:8
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
Quote
atomicbee
sorry for delay, long day and drive from CAF museum,gears are free moving with no wick strings, check out picture below and share your thoughts on  this feed issue-Thank you Click image for larger version - Name: burner assembly.jpg, Views: 128, Size: 65.71 KB Click image for larger version - Name: burner 2.jpg, Views: 128, Size: 77.90 KB
 Bally Coleman Bill
Quote
DougA
Looks like you need a 1/2" wick.  Either take up Smudge on her offer or check out Kirkman's.
DougA  ... fettler and keeper of a family collection of nickel: a 249, a pair of 237s, and a 1938 228B, along with a late 1979 red 200a.  Then two more turned up, a 1941 243A and a 1944 242C, and now there's a b-day 200A lantern, too!.
Coleman Blues Member #92.
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #009.
Quote
atomicbee
this is the 3/4 wick that I cut to 1/2  width and still it would not get past the burner wheels Click image for larger version - Name: new wick material.jpg, Views: 126, Size: 104.78 KB Click image for larger version - Name: inside burner wheels clean now.jpg, Views: 128, Size: 78.57 KB
 Bally Coleman Bill
Quote
SteveA
I've found that if you take a hammer and flatten the wick a bit it'll feed right in.
Quote
atomicbee
ok let me try that one Thank you!
 Bally Coleman Bill
Quote
74HARLEY
There are different thickness of the wicks, some lamps use a thicker wick. Try trimming the corners off just a little bit, but the correct wick is cheap.
Joe
looking for 200a 11-56,9-77,2-65 Coleman 275 appreciation syndicate member #0004 ICCC #1262 
Quote
atomicbee
Flatten about 1/2 inch of top of wick and it fed into burner easily YAY!! but still has a weak up and down control of wick.I will try the one from Hicks and see what happens and if all else fails I will a PM  to S/P and maybe help solve this mystery, Thank you for all the help so far! Click image for larger version - Name: Red Light Ruby and 530.jpg, Views: 101, Size: 106.56 KB Click image for larger version - Name: Red Light Ruby and 228J.jpg, Views: 101, Size: 82.19 KB
 Bally Coleman Bill
Quote
SteveA
I'm glad it worked for you.  I really like those hot blast lanterns as well, I have four or five, some with red glass and some clear.  You have to be carefull with the wick adjuster, I have a few old one where those toothed wheels inside have been broken free of the shaft by some gorilla fisted PO. 
Quote
atomicbee
Yes really like the look and happy shes back to life again! I would like to find a clear globe just to compare the light outputs.Are you running kerosene or lamp oil?Wally world sells both so I went with kerosene
 Bally Coleman Bill
Quote
mikew
atomicbee wrote:
Yes really like the look and happy shes back to life again! I would like to find a clear globe just to compare the light outputs.Are you running kerosene or lamp oil?Wally world sells both so I went with kerosene


I use both in mine.  Kero is cheaper.  Not sure, but I thinking the Wally World stuff is kero with a little fragrance added.  Just don't use a fuel with dye in it as it will clog the wick over time.
Mike
"... at evening time, it shall be light." Zechariah 14:7

Slant Saver #05; Milspec Ops 0045
Quote
atomicbee
cool thank you for that fuel information Best Regards
 Bally Coleman Bill
Quote
SteveA
I burn K1 Kero I buy at Wally World.  Pricey but there's no K1 available at the pump here, just the dyed stuff.
Quote
atomicbee
which one lasts longer? K1 or lamp oil?
 Bally Coleman Bill
Quote
JimL
I think you'll find it's really a matter of high high you adjust the flame.  With a higher flame, it'll definitely burn fuel faster.  Wickies are generally very fuel miserly. 

-Jim

Have you ever imagined a world with no hypothetical situations?
Quote
atomicbee
Ok that makes sense,besides that wick loading issue they are very easy to maintain but boring to tinker with! Thank Jim!
 Bally Coleman Bill
Quote
atomicbee
I just purchased another Embury and that burner loaded the wick with no issues and it adjust up and down perfectly so I have to try to close up that gap on burner some how...or find another embury burner
 Bally Coleman Bill
Quote
brucesheehe
The shaft may be stripped from the teeth in the burner.

When you turn it under pressure, nothing happens.  I don't know how to fix it, since the burner can't be taken apart.

That hot blast lantern only came in one size - large.  It is a hot blast lantern - newer style.

The Air Pilot came in two sizes, large and small.

The Air Pilot is the cold blast lantern = twice as bright as the hot blast, and uses twice the fuel - more weather proof.

Embury was bought out by Dietz in the 1950s.  They took over the Air Pilot and the Traffic Guard lantern models. 
Bruce Sheehe
ICCC #889 - Connoisseur of Time, Friends, Leisure, & Coleman   Altoona, PA - The Mountain City - Near The Eastern USA Continental Divide
Quote
atomicbee
Hey that's some interesting information and I have to admit I"am really digging  the wick lanterns and have my eye on another Embury near me, Do you have,any suggestions on other wick lanterns that wont break the bank? To solve the wick channel gap I was thinking of stacking metal tape or bond a strip of 2024 aluminum with engine epoxy to make up the gap in wick channel
 Bally Coleman Bill
Quote
JimL
I don't know what your threshold is for 'breaking the bank' on a wickie, but suggest seeing what local antique shops, and junque/consignment shops have available.  Ones local to me aren't too bad.  I picked up two Dietz hot blast lanterns a couple of years ago for $40 at an antique store.  I haven't paid that much for one since.  Estate sales and yard sales are probably the lowest prices.

Electrolysis does an amazing job on wickies, if you don't already know this.  'Common knowledge' is that electrolysis is line of sight.  If you ignore that, leave the fuel cap off and remove the burner, electrolysis will also de-rust the inside of the fount.  No need for any kind of electrode inside the fount.

-Jim

Have you ever imagined a world with no hypothetical situations?
Quote
atomicbee
yes I got the last one in Tustin at a antique shop,you dip the lantern in the chemical to remove rust sounds good but where do I get the solution?
 Bally Coleman Bill
Quote
JimL
I'm guessing you mean Evapo-rust, but it you soak the item for X amount of hours, it's not a dip.  Can be had at any major retailer, but price can vary wildly.  That's why when a retailer has it on sale, it gets posted here.

I just found out they have a gel.  Maybe I'm one of few that didn't know, but I think it holds promise.
https://evapo-rust.com/evapo-rust-gel/

-Jim

Have you ever imagined a world with no hypothetical situations?
Quote
atomicbee
Hi Jim,I like the gel and there is a retailer really close to me so I will stop by and check this out and let you know how well it works. Thank you! 
 Bally Coleman Bill
Quote
Welcome to the Coleman Collectors Forum, an international forum of Coleman enthusiast and collectors, as such people from all over the world come here to read about Coleman collecting, repair, and to meet and make friends. The pages contained here are intended for the use of amateur collectors and people interested in Coleman collecting, restoration and repair as a hobby. It goes without saying to refrain from political posts, personal attacks and inflammatory posts.

Please note, all postings are the personal opinions of the members posting, the owner, administrators and moderators of the forum do not warrant the accuracy of posted information or endorse the safety of such.