200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

ke4ljh
Draino: Stove Fount Black Sludge Removal?  Need Advise.

I think I am doing the right thing here but want to check.

Stove Fount that has been BB'd for rust. In the process what I believe is black organic sludge has developed inside the fount. When removing the BB's with a magnet the sludge also appears to be magnetic no doubt due to small metal shavings and particles the BB's have beat loose.

BB's are now out of the fount. There is still the black sludge and what I believe tiny metal shavings or metal dust mixed in with the black sludge. I now the sludge is not magnetized but the metal shavings mixed with the sludge is magnetized.

I had some "Lime Away" not drain cleaner, so tried that over night. It does not seem to be breaking down the sludge.

What do I need to do to finish removing the sludge and metal shavings still in the fount.

Stephen - Florida
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Gand28
Stephen, I like to use lye to breakdown the organic fuel residue in old founts. I use 100% lye drain cleaner crystals. I buy a local brand...not sure if Draino is 100% lye, so check. I mix 1 tablespoon into 1 cup cool water and then pour into the fount. It will get warm. Let it sit a few hours or overnight. Pour out and flush with water.
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
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Eel
Drano isn't straight lye - it contains aluminum as well.  Red Devil is a commonly available brand of lye.

Always add lye to water.  Never add water to lye.

EEL Eclectic Lanterns, div.  Doofenshmirtz-EEL Incorporated.

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scl
my mixture now is naptha, crown fuel,colemanfuel and acetone. the crown and cf are basically naptha and i have been using the crown. i had a 530 stove that there was no hope for and would not even pass air, the main fuel valve would not come out without some probable damage, so i poured the mix in  and waited a few hours and when i pumped it up it gurgled a bit and then started flowing nicely. i will go get some more acetone today for a 222a that i am working on.
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Asbestos
Drano has Lye, Sodium nitrate, salt and aluminum.  My concern with leaving it in a already damaged font would be further weakening the metal. if it is an organic sludge I would think solvents would be the way to go SCl said he uses naptha and acetone. Acetone eats pretty much everything I might try toluene or the solvent based goof off  They have a water based degreaser (which may well work) and the stuff that is a blend of solvents and seems to work quite well.
goof off.jpg 
Pithy saying wanted- will pay cash for wit.

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Gunhippie
Drano would be a very bad choice for cleaning a fount. It contains aluminum chip to make it foam--giving the consumer something to see that makes them think it's working better. This will produce pressure in the fount--not something you want when much of the mixture is caustic lye.

Get some straight NaOH--Caustic Lye. Carefully add about a tablespoon to a quart of very hot water, then use that for your BB dance or just let sit. Wear PPE: Rubber gloves and eye protection at the least.

Caustic lye will not harm steel or brass. The one common metal it will attack--and aggressively--is aluminum, so keep it away from aluminum collar such as are found on later 200As. Otherwise, it's always my first step for steel, brass, porcelain enamel (vents) and even glass.

After you've removed the organic crud with the lye, weak acids (citric, vinegar, phosphoric, CRL, etc) can get to the rust to do their job.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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Gand28
I’d argue with Timm on lye and hot water...but he does this every day at the brewery. I do agree you should do the lye bath first. Get all the organic crude out so you can expose the bare metal to derust if necessary.
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
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Mark in Texas
I’ve had good luck on gunky founts with simple green and BBs then shaking.

Pour everything out then give it a good shot of carb cleaner, shake, pour.

Then an overnight soak with evaporust. Shake, drain.

then a really good 20-30 second shot of carb cleaner again, seal it up, let’s sit for a few minutes, shake, drain,

then use Coleman fuel and seal up again until you are ready to proceed.
Don’t sell yourself short judge, you’re a tremendous slouch.

Mil-Spec Ops #8505
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ke4ljh
Thank you all.

I think the simplest thing for me is to get some (100% lye) crystals from the grocery detergent isle. But Not Draino due to the other ingredients.

The challenge is the removal of a great deal of dark grey sludge mixed with metal particles broken loose by the BB's.

Stephen - Florida
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Asbestos

 Use good eye protection if you are going to be using caustics. These will mess your eyes up but quick.  Regular safety glasses often allow splashes  Protect your eyesight, you are needed to rescue more lanterns.

Adding lye to hot water and then mixing with organics with make it foam and boil a lot anyway.

FWIW I read that it will attack copper and soft solder joints. Coleman currently uses copper for fusing parts.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/gunsmithing/sodium-hydroxide-caustic-soda-lye-useful-stuff-158041/

 

Pithy saying wanted- will pay cash for wit.

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curlyjoe_99
I have used both 90% alcohol and even sea foam with BB's and it took the crud out of lamps and lanterns.
I got a quart of 90% and dumped it in and poured a bunch of BB's in it. I shook it twice a day and by that weekend all the chunks flowed out and the founts were spotless.

it may be worth a try and both are a whole lot less hazardous than lye.

hope this helps
Robert (AKA Curly)-- Heart-of-Texas! "Keep 'Em Working"  
MILSPEC_OPS & 275 Appreciation Syndicate Member #9999

In Search of (ISO): evidence of a 220/228 series lantern dated 2/63    

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Gunhippie
Asbestos: Good points on the PPE. Caustic eats organics, and people are organic. Fortunately, beer is a very good mild acid, and will neutralize caustic lye. I always keep a bottle or six handy when fettling for just this reason. Craft beers seem to work the best, with IPAs at the top of the list.

As for the danger of foaming from hot water, caustic and organics: It's just not a thing I've ever observed. Caustic lye and very hot water are the industry standard (or one of them) for brewery cleaning, and I use it for cleaning GPA parts in an ultrasonic cleaner just to add more energy to the system. I've never had that problem.

As for attacking copper and solder, yep, it will. Slowly. Very slowly. Don't leave brass or copper in the solution for more than a few hours. In the ultrasonic (12 gal, 1,200 Watts), I usually go for about 20-30 minutes without any problems. Once again, we clean brewery parts, including brass, bronze and copper, in caustic in the ultrasonic cleaner (Don't worry--I use a plastic bucket floating in the cleaner for dirty stuff so as not to contaminate any brewery parts). Brewery parts get cleaned after every use, so they see much more caustic than any GPA part ever will.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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Brassngas
I recently cleaned an old 319 tank with about an inch and a half of bb's and solvent strapped down to a vibrating case cleaner (with the container removed). Snug up the filler cap and let it shake for twenty four hours. The solvent makes a great slurry and this method really cleans the rust scale out well. Rinse thoroughly with solvent until clear solvent comes out. Then to remove gunk from the fuel tube I soaked the tank with acetone overnight. If you do this make sure the vibrating cleaner can't rattle off of your bench when unattended. You will have to experiment with the bungies or rubber straps to make sure they are secure. Works very well!
So many lanterns, so little time....  ICCC member #151
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Brassngas
If the fount has really gummy fuel in it use the acetone first.
So many lanterns, so little time....  ICCC member #151
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Scouterjan
I use a strong solution of boiling water and TSP
Jan


Mitakiuye Oyasin " All My Relations"
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Puffie40
One caveat I have with using lye in the tank, is limit the exposure to the paint. I've found the paint from older Coleman's tends to soften quite a bit when exposed to lye, and I've actually stripped a couple of tanks for repainting this way.
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ke4ljh
"I use a strong solution of boiling water and TSP "


Jan,
What is TSP?

Stephen - Florida
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Eel
TSP is trisodium phosphate, commonly used to clean and prep walls before repainting. 
Not to be confused with TSP substitute for our purpose.

EEL Eclectic Lanterns, div.  Doofenshmirtz-EEL Incorporated.

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Gunhippie
Puffie40 wrote:
One caveat I have with using lye in the tank, is limit the exposure to the paint. I've found the paint from older Coleman's tends to soften quite a bit when exposed to lye, and I've actually stripped a couple of tanks for repainting this way.


Very good point. Lye is a very good paint stripper. Keep it off all painted surfaces! Same for most solvent, and carb cleaner in particular.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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