200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.
Judamonster
I have damaged the last 4 check valves I have pulled. I have done at least a dozen before this started happening. Any ideas what may be happening? The tab or ears of the tool is shearing a portion of the valve where the tool contacts it. It could be coincidence, but thought I would ask.
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Judamonster
Fyi, I have a mike wells tool.
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SteveRetherford
i have ruined some too . some are just stubborn . i like the quick snap rather than a power turn of the wrench . add some oil first ?
[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
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Phredd
I always spray it with some PBBlaster and let it sit for a while.
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JeepJeepster
Got any pics? Ive removed the valve from every lantern I own and Ive yet to damage a check valve. Are you making sure the little tabs are down in the groove and the nut is nice and tight?
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Gand28
Sometimes the tool is a tight fit in the CV. Make sure it is seated properly before turning the wrench. I’ve boogered a couple, but probably 1-2% of those I have removed (500+). 
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
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rob_pontius
I also use a quick snap of the wrench opposed to a steady turn. I use Mike Wells' newest double ended tool. I haven't damaged one yet either.
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Judamonster
Double ended? what are the 2 different sizes for?
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scl
make sure it is tightened very tight before you turn it or it will do that. cannot be loose at all.
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rob_pontius
The two ends have different tooth thicknesses. Coleman check valves weren't very consistent with the width of the groove. Start by dropping the wider toothed end into the pump tube and turn. If it doesn't engage the slot, flip it over to the narrow end and try again. The two sizes are also great for other brands of check valves as some are narrower than others. The treaded rod that goes down the middle insures that the teeth can't jump and skip out of the groove. It's very important to make sure the wing nut is tight.
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Judamonster
It has been tight, I will try the quick snap and see if it helps. Has the PB blaster affected the paint at all?
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Cottage_hill_bill
Make sure the tool is seated completely and the center rod is tight. Put your wrench on the end of the tool and give the free end of the wrench a sharp hit with a soft faced hammer. I use a 1 pound rubber mallet. A wooden mallet or maul or plastic dead blow hammer would work as well. That is how the original tool was designed to be used.
Reese
North West Florida

Reese’s Law of Thermodynamics:  At temperatures below incandescence hot metal looks exactly like cold metal.

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mnhogrider
I don’t remove a check valve unless it’s absolutely necessary. And that’s pretty rare. 
Steve
ICCC Member #1396 
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #017
Mack, Cat and Cadillac.
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hikerduane
Where is the tool available?   I have the type OCP carries I believe its like.
I also only remove a C/V if it leaks, would be nice to have the tool with two widths as Coleman stoves with the NRV that has a slot need to be removed with a wide screwdriver.
Duane
Duane-All seasons, year round backpacker and camper.  So many stoves who's counting.
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hikerduane
Thank you, have a order arriving today from Mike, makes my old tool obsolete then.  Will get one my next order, parts coming for a collectible kero lantern.
Duane
Duane-All seasons, year round backpacker and camper.  So many stoves who's counting.
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SteveRetherford
its not that they were inconsistent  , early CV's had a 1/16th inch slot later ones have a 1/8th .
[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
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Tigerfans2
Well that's just great, now I have to buy another tool. Because I don't have that one.
.......
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Judamonster
I am betting there is enough slop in the older tool on newer lanterns that that is my problem. Up to this point i only removed the cv fron 242's and 220b/d, a few 200's. The ones i have been messing up are later 200a's and doner 220 (later) models.
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SteveRetherford
the tool needs to be tightened down quite a bit , so everything turns as one . if your bending or breaking off brass i wonder if its tight enough  .  i learned this the hard way .
[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
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ImMrBill
I've got a stuck check valve in a 275 Ordered Mike's tool Set everything up according to directions. Felt it drop in the slot Cinched everything down and turned it and both the little feet on the tool or whatever they are called immediately snapped off. Check valve is so messed up I think I'm gonna have to use it as a parts lantern. 
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zoomkat
"Check valve is so messed up I think I'm gonna have to use it as a parts lantern."

If the check valve is already messed up, you might se a big easy out to remove it.
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immrbill
I've got a stuck check valve in a 275 Ordered Mike's tool Set everything up according to directions. Felt it drop in the slot Cinched everything down and turned it and both the little feet on the tool or whatever they are called immediately snapped off.

Mike sent a new part so I'll be ready when the next valve goes bed
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mmriley159
I have rarely have to replace the check valve. I use a long bamboo skewer to poke around and then use some carb cleaner. By the time I get done with the ball bearing rattle and flush of the font, and the poking about, the values work. You can also quick pump and then remove the pump. A poke into the valve will tell you if it is working as the air will hiss out and then you can hear the valve close. But perhaps all valves are not the same?
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mikew
I have only had one CV break and it was big time stuck in a bad rusty Sears fount that I was robbing the parts from.   The tool was tightened in the groove correctly and the CV would not give using a single wrench.  I placed two wrenchs on it and used like a T-handle.  The increased torque twisted the brass lobes off the CV, but gladly no damage to the tool, which was made by Mike Wells.
Mike
"... at evening time, it shall be light." Zechariah 14:7

Slant Saver #05; Milspec Ops 0045
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JeepJeepster
Ive removed check valves from my 242 and from a 90’s 295. Not issues at all...

May buy the new one just for kicks though. 
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