200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

smallenginelover
I recently acquired a well used 502. I have spent too much time already on trying to remove the base-plate of the burner, I am wondering if there are any that I could buy because I am to the point where I want to cut the old one off, clean up the threads where it once would have been, then put a new one on. I have used penetrating oil, channel-locks, vice grips, hammering, heat, heating and quenching but to no avail have I broken it loose. The reason I really want to get it off is because the stove needs a deep clean and the top part of it is loose thus allowing it to rattle around. I will probably try more penetrating oil and maybe and oil-filter wrench if I can find one that will fit it.
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #072
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Barrett
I beat a real stubborn one by applying ATF and then heating and cooling it and applying more ATF over numerous days, before holding the rim with a good pair of pliers and using a heavy SS Rod to hit the pliers with a good shock effect.
There was much joy when I realized it had moved a mere mm the first time.

Good luck
Andrew

Living and learning in NZ
Hoping to reach cognitive and emotional maturity before my children do.
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TwoCanoes
The oil filter wrench is critical, IMHO.  Next in line of requirements is patience.  As above, allow days for soaking/heating/quench cycles.  I was able to get the right filter wrench at the first auto parts store I stopped at. They're also readily available on the Internet.
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JimL
Only one of my 502's (out of six) was stubborn enough that the burner bowl was bending because it would not release.  It took a few heat/quench cycles to break it free, but this was in the winter, so I quenched it by pushing it into snow.   Maybe you can heat it more with a torch and use a bucket with ice water to give it a little extra shock for the quench.

-Jim

Flammable liquids, open flame, what could go wrong?


I've missed you!  But I'm reloading.
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stoves1234
I use the above-mentioned oil filter wrench, the type that tighten as it's turned. I also wrapped duct tape around the wrench where it contacts the burner bowl for a better grip. Then, like they said, heat and quench, heat and quench. It's worked for me so far. This is a common problem with 502's. Good luck, and be patient or you'll destroy the bunsen (I think that's what it's called).
Jim Brizzolara
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smallenginelover
Okay, I'll keep at it and try not to rough it up too much. Penetrating oil, heating then quenching. 
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #072
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Pancholoco1911

Okay, I'll keep at it and try not to rough it up too much. Penetrating oil, heating then quenching. 


you better hear these guys or your 502 will end like mine, I’ll show you a pic tomorrow 

~Pancho~
👀 for BD lantern  7/85, 10/04, 5/11, 2/19
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #101
“Solo sé que no sé nada”
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Northman49
Once you get it off you will be wise to reassemble it using a good anti-seize compound.
She was only a moonshiner's daughter, but I loved her still.

I keep my tools sharp...but my mind sharper!
  Ed
                 ICCC no.1880
                 CANADIAN BLUES Member #023
     
                  Mil-spec ops #1982
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smallenginelover
Yeah I imagine those three screws that hold everything to the fount might break or strip out with to much torque applied, or the bunson manifold may fail. Something catastrophic.
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #072
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zoomkat
What size channel locks you use? I think my ~10" ones just spanned the burner width and finally worked. A 12" pair might give a better positioning and gripping advantage. I may have put my tank on some of the no slip drawer liner from the dollar store to help keep the tank planted while doing the turning. The thread depth is fairly shallow, so it will probably break free after while. 
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smallenginelover
I don't know how to size channel locks but mine are about 14" long, they could have a hair bigger jaw but they grip the burner well, aren't marking up the bowl and don't slip. And yes I will be putting anti-seize in it, so hopefully whoever ends up with it half a century later will not have to fight as hard as I am.
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #072
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JimL
I haven't used anti-seize, but then again, I see no reason to crank down on that burner bowl.   It's not necessary since it mainly holds the bunsen in place as well as provides the attachment point for the burner.

-Jim

Flammable liquids, open flame, what could go wrong?


I've missed you!  But I'm reloading.
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Phredd
Don't use channel lock. Use a filter wrench that looks like this and as other say - heat, quench, lube, repeat......download.jpg 

Phredd
ICCC#1799
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #40
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Ridge Runner
Phredd wrote:
Don't use channel lock. Use a filter wrench that looks like this and as other say - heat, quench, lube, repeat......download.jpg 
👆🏻 This. Except for the red booties, I have the same one. Worked very well. More even distribution of pressure and rotational force than channel-locks.

— L.J.
Looking for 10/2015 & 1/2020 B-Day Lanterns
I love the smell of naphtha in the morning!
"Ain’t no need to watch where I’m goin’; just need to know where I’ve been" -Tow Mater

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25 502s
I concur with the use of this tool. I have taken apart more than 25 lol and have not found one it won’t work on. I think I bought it at Lowe’s or Home Depot (whichever one that sell husky tools). You can check online to see if they have it in stock.  7E853CAF-E8CD-415A-B78B-C07A9C4107F9.jpeg 
Jason
not looking for any more Bday gpas. Honestly, if you have a 10-72 don’t let me know about it.
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0214
Coleman Slant Saver #56
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #31
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eanddrice
Thanks for sharing these ideas.  I ruined a 502 that needed a new paint job.  Made me sick!!😠
Eric & Debbie & a Doxie named Lucy
Bernzomatic appreciation #1960
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clifforddward
I discovered Kroil penetrating fluid several decades ago when I was restoring old cars...I suggest you buy some and never look back:
http://www.kanolabs.com/google/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsZKZwNCd6wIVVeWGCh0j8AD1EAAYASAAEgJyj_D_BwE
Cliff Ward
Cary, North Carolina
ICCC #1955
Wanted: USFS lanterns with embossed fount...complete lantern or just the fount.
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smallenginelover
Unfortunately after even more heating, quenching, penetrating oil, and hitting it with hammers it still didn't budge before the manifold gave. Here is the damage and the tool my Dad and I made. We used a cordless impact on the tool if anyone was wondering. I am not giving up yet, I still want to see it working, so I am looking for parts or a parts stove that doesn't have a seized burner base-plate. If you have anything that would work for me let me know, I'll be posting a wanted ad in Classifieds too.
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #072
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zoomkat
I can't pick it out from the pictures, just what is the damage to the manifold?
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smallenginelover
Below the threaded bit it started rolling up from being twisted. This isn't a great picture but it should show it better.
 
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #072
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