200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

spencerville
Hi guys, Obviously first time post as well as I'm completely new to lantern restoration. With that said I was following the step by step rebuild of a double mantle lantern. Happily everything came apart better than expected with the exception of the screw in the burner assembly. The screw head broke off. My ez out set only goes down to 1/8". So my question is should I try to get a 1/16th ez out and try to remove or is there another way you guys may have experienced working? I am working on a 220D with a stamp date of 8 - 50. Has green paint on the top vent and looks to be nickel plate on the bottom. Any help would be appreciated on how to fix this issue and any other thoughts you might have on this lantern. It was given to me by a guy who was throwing it away and I just thought he was nutz! so here I am not want to just look at an old corroded coleman.... I want to see pretty and working again. thx
Quote
curlyjoe_99
IF the screw was the one at the top of the long tube it connects to the mixing chamber or manifold. two burner tubes drop down from there and have burner caps on them to allow mantles to be tied on.  there is also a screw at the bottom of the long air tube that hold the tube and manifold to the tip cleaning assembly and lever.


the manifold screw should just be left as is. this is a common issue when attempting to take apart 60 year old lanterns.

hope this helps and others may come by with a suggestion on how to remove it.
Robert (AKA Curly)-- Heart-of-Texas! "Keep 'Em Working"  
MILSPEC_OPS & 275 Appreciation Syndicate Member #9999

In Search of (ISO): evidence of a 220/228 series lantern dated 2/63    

Quote
Gand28
You could drill it out and tap for another screw, but as Robert said, it can be left alone (assume it's the one in the cast mixing chamber).  First mistake of a new restorer is to try and take everything apart to the individual pieces.  Without heat and patience, it doesn't always come apart easily.  And if you are ever going to light the lantern, it will get dirty again after the first time.

Welcome to the group...you know we like pics!

Edit:  I meant to add that your 220D is likely stamped B-50.  These used A and B for the first or second half of the year.  The vent is porcelain coated, not painted and the fount is nickel plated brass with a steel bottom plate.
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
Quote
spencerville
Thanks for response guys, unfortunately I didn't know of this forum before trying to work on this lantern. So I haven't taken and pics of the lantern at start before I took it apart. I will take some before it cleaned and reassembled. So to be clear, the screw that broke was the one at the top of the manifold. And as I understand you it is okay to leave the broken screw in as is with no head? I also will need to replace a few things as it appears to me. Like the plunger cup? as I believe its called.... there is no mushroom head on it. can I replace just the tip or cup? also the arm that comes out the side you turn to clean the whatever it cleans,lol turns hard, how do I get that aprt to clean and get working freely?  
Quote
SteveRetherford
this may help some understanding the part names n numbers .

double click this link and it will enlarge
http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/diagrams/220DEF-228DEF.jpg

http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/diagrams/220DEF-228DEF.jpg
[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
Quote
Gand28
And read through this thread before you go too much further...

http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/resources/re_2lant.php
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
Quote
mgmlvks
Gand28 wrote:
And read through this thread before you go too much further...

http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/resources/re_2lant.php

And - couple of items to note

  1. Do not disassemble without the Gas Tip Cleaner Assembly 220B3571 in-place or you will squash the opening
  2. There is 99.99% of the time no need to do anything related to disassembly of the gas tip cleaner
Mike, ICCC member #1156, Slant Saver Group #011, 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0215, FAS #20 - Confusing Future Generations of Collectors One Lantern at a Time
"In order for the light to shine so brightly, the darkness must be present"
Francis Bacon
(and - for those who have asked - avatar from postcard and says "Coming Home by Rail".  https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4595/27430282209_39a564be00_z.jpg
 
 
Quote
Gasman64
[sSig_welcome4], Neil, from Pennsylvania!  (Hey, somebody's got to welcome you! [biggrin])
I hope you can get that old lantern working; good luck! It's really not tough at all...
Steve
ICCC #1012




Quote
spencerville
Thanks for all the input guys. Looks like Ill have to buy some new parts, I want to be in good working order. If I loose my patients then Ill beg someone who knows what there doing to try to clean up my mess. I will work on some pics of my lantern as well as another one I want to get working. Its not that old I don't believe and it not a Coleman. Just another mans trash. ITs an 829 petromax single burner. I've already cleaned up the outside a bit. Again, just couldn't see it go in the trash.
Quote
boneweed
I was going to do a thread for this but will explain it here: Instead of messing with Phillips screws, unscrew the entire frame and plumbing as a unit. I use a large rounded vice grip on the brass fitting pointing away from the tip cleaner rod. The flat part of the vice grip is grabbing the fitting just below the generator and the round part is resting against the wider part around the air tube. Hold the fount with your feet with the vice grip pointing away. Rap counter clockwise on the vice grip with a mallet. It will slip from your feet but realign it and continue until it's loose.
Quote
spencerville
Thanks for the tip, I actually didn't have any trouble at that point. THe screw at the top is the one I broke.
Quote
Jim_l
If there is a leather cup at the end of the pump, it can usually be rejuvenated with some oil.
Neatsfoot oil is one of the best you can use.
If there is no cup, you can get, or make, a replacement.

[Smilie6]
From Oconee.
Matthew 5:16: "Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in heaven." Jim-- Coleman Blues Member #014
Quote
spencerville
Okay guys...my 50s 220D. Took apart and soaked in coke. Going to spend this 9* day cleaning instead of ice fishing due to sick kid and wife is shopping. You like pics so her is the start of my lantern with more pics ti cone I'm sure. ..😆
Quote
spencerville
New seal for cap. And I'd like to replace just the mushroom end of plunger... hopefully I can get it apart...suggestions?
Quote
spencerville
I know there juat pics but can see anything that may need attention other than cleaning?
Quote
spencerville
I'm thinking all these need replaced...thoughts m
Quote
Jim_l
Check valve is probably good.
Just soak it a while, or even boil it in some white vinegar and blow it out good.

You can replace the spring and tube on the tip cleaner with some brass wool or rolled up fine brass screen.
Or you can order the tube from OCP.

The tip cleaner assembly should clean up and work ok.
Loosen the packing nut and clean the shaft that's showing, then try sliding the shaft through far enough that you can clean it inside where it turns in the assembly, and put a little light oil on it before sliding it back in place.
Once you reassemble the lantern, tighten the packing nut just enough that you can still turn it easy, but tight enough that it doesn't leak fuel while running.

Some people like to replace the valve packing ring every time.
I rarely do.
Again, a little cleaning of the valve shaft and a little oil will usually make it good.

The seal in the fuel cap insert will definitely need replacing.
You can burn it til it looks like ash and pick /clean the old one out.
No need to replace the cap.


Matthew 5:16: "Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in heaven." Jim-- Coleman Blues Member #014
Quote
markamulvaney
Welcome my friend from Eastern Iowa! Lots of good people and information here.
Quote
Hot Diggity
Any time you have a small broken screw it's worth trying an electric engraver on.  The vibrations from the engraver act like a tiny air hammer, and by applying slight pressure on the broken piece in the direction you'd like it to move, it often will.  I've been using this technique for a long time.

My engraver has my old Michigan drivers license number engraved on it.  That one hasn't been current for at least 20 years.
Chuck, 3/61, ICCC 1689
Milspec Syndicate #510
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0510
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #12
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #510
Coleman Slant Saver #510
Frank Appreciation Syndicate Member #2
Tinker, Toy maker, Trash picker, Wickie, Lamp loon
Quote
Jim_l
I hadn't heard of that method, HD, and I don't have an electric engraver, but that sounds like a good one to remember...[up]

Matthew 5:16: "Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in heaven." Jim-- Coleman Blues Member #014
Quote
Gand28
Looks like you may need to replace the leather pump cup...

http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/product.php?productid=77&cat=&page=1
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
Quote
spencerville
I want to replace the needle assy. And spring and the paper or whatever it is... anyone have a part number for the whole deal? pic is coming
Quote
spencerville
Thanks Smudge, I hate the interweb and working on my first coleman restore has been easier than looking for things on the net.
Quote
spencerville
What would you guys suggest for this ventilator? Try to find a better one?
Quote
Chucker
Yes, find another. Our host OCP has them for half the price of a large fast food burger.

Unless a vent is hard to find or is maybe pre-1936 I would just find a replacement. 

I saved a couple that looked like that with brazing and one with wire welding just because they were going to be runners and it's better to use a beat up vent than a good looking one just for around the house and back yard, IMO. 

A harder one to find for me was a green brimless vent for a 427 last summer. So, I welded the broken one that came with it since they are going for more money than I like to spend on an original vent. 
Chuck
"...we also glory in our sufferings, because we know that suffering produces perseverance; perseverance, character; and character, hope" Romans 5:3-4
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
Quote
spencerville
Is there a part number for this item or where do I look for it?
Quote
bridd
spencerville wrote:
Is there a part number for this item or where do I look for it?


Here is the only one he has currently. Not a whole lot better than what you have, except it’s still one piece. Also has the part number listed. You might try a WTB want to buy in the classifieds.

http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/product.php?productid=114&cat=&page=1
bart

"If you wanna go fast you gotta have gas...”     —Wildbull
Quote
Chucker
Sorry, I assumed and shouldn't have. Thanks Bart for the link.

You can click on the Old Coleman Parts banner at the top of the page here and it takes to to Cigar Mike's website. 
Chuck
"...we also glory in our sufferings, because we know that suffering produces perseverance; perseverance, character; and character, hope" Romans 5:3-4
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
Quote
scl
welcome.
Quote
JimL
spencerville wrote:
I want to replace the needle assy. And spring and the paper or whatever it is... anyone have a part number for the whole deal? pic is coming


When you replace the generator, save the old one, including the cleaning rod and spring.  You never know when those parts can come in handy. 

-Jim

Flammable liquids, open flame, what could go wrong?


I've missed you!  But I'm reloading.
Quote
spencerville
got it ordered along with the other items required. Thanks for the help guys.
Quote
Jim_l
Yeah, I second what the other Jim said about keeping the old genny parts.
That one looks like it might be nickel plated too.

Matthew 5:16: "Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in heaven." Jim-- Coleman Blues Member #014
Quote
spencerville
Okay, Finally got back to my 220D re-assembly. Got the font back together and pressure check. All was good. Had to leave with the wife so it sat over night. Next day I finished putting the top together, Went to light and no sound. I try to pump it up and seems Im getting no pressure. What could have changed?????
Quote
Jim_l
Fuel cap tight ?
You are opening the pump/check valve rod and then tightening it, right ?
Did you oil and replace the pump leather.
Is the check valve ball free ? Does it rattle when you shake it, with no pressure in the fount ?

Could be any number of things.
Matthew 5:16: "Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in heaven." Jim-- Coleman Blues Member #014
Quote
spencerville
yes,yes and I cant hear the check valve with the fuel in it. I believe I have a leak in the font top. I took it back down to there and Im getting feul to there but when I close the valve I can hear a slight hiss. but no fuel is leaking....
Quote
fatherof31970
Did you clock the valve correct and tight? Jim is right in that it could be a number of things. You can pump it up and dunk it in a bucket of water and look for a bubble trail. Also did you flush the fount out good. Could have a piece of crud blocking the pump tube.
"Sit tall in the saddle, Hold your head up high Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky And live like you ain't afraid to die And don't be scared, just enjoy your ride" From "The Ride" by the late Chris Ledoux. Ed, Moscow, Idaho 
Quote
spencerville
CLock the valve correct??
Quote
Gand28
spencerville wrote:
CLock the valve correct??


Clocking refers to the position of the valve in the fount. Did you screw the valve in the proper distance so it is positioned centered between the pump and fill hole with the pump on the right when looking at the valve? Also with the collar on, the valve shaft should be centered in the cutout in the collar.
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
Quote
Eel
Gand28 wrote:
  Also with the collar on, the valve shaft should be centered in the cutout in the collar.


... centered vertically in that collar hole - if it's sitting "too high" take another turn of the valve body into the fount. 

Did you use any sealant on the valve threads? 

EEL Eclectic Lanterns, div.  Doofenshmirtz-EEL Incorporated.

Quote
Traderjac
My first 2 lanterns I tried to restore were a 220 and a 228. I can guarantee you I will never purchase either of these again. They were not made to be worked on. The 3 that I have will sit on a shelf and will never be fired.
MilspecOps#0416
I do not adhere to today's political correctness.
Quote
SV Falcon
Jim,

220/228 B through E were made as utility tools to be serviced either by Coleman reps or the end user . End users were generally rural people who were tasked with working on machines as a way of life . If you master the skill of removing the burner frame retaining nut under the cleaning lever assembly ( OCP has a handy tool for this ) and then mounting a crescent in a vice to hold the valve assembly while you turn the fount life is easy . You can break down a 220/228 in five minutes . Don’t give up on the 220/228 . Some of the best machines ever designed . Many 85+ year old models are still running today just as they were designed to function . Hang in there , reach out for help when you need it .

Dave
Quote
Gand28
+1 to Dave’s comment. Once you figure it out, they are not hard to work on. Resist the urge to take every little piece apart for cleaning.
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
Quote
Gasman64
Gand28 wrote:
+1 to Dave’s comment. Once you figure it out, they are not hard to work on. Resist the urge to take every little piece apart for cleaning.

Especially the tip cleaner lever assembly and valve packing, if, of course, the latter is not leaking.
Steve
ICCC #1012




Quote
spencerville
thanks guys, It appeared to be clocked correctly. I'm going to try the vise trick and try to get another turn out of it.
Quote
offrink
If it’s tight already you won’t get another turn! Please do a dunk test to see if bubbles are coming out someplace!
Ben
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate Member #0035
Looking for B-Day dates of 6/80, 2/84, 3/11, and 12/13
Quote


...
...
Welcome to the Coleman Collectors Forum, an international forum of Coleman enthusiast and collectors, as such people from all over the world come here to read about Coleman collecting, repair, and to meet and make friends. The pages contained here are intended for the use of amateur collectors and people interested in Coleman collecting, restoration and repair as a hobby. It goes without saying to refrain from political posts, personal attacks and inflammatory posts.

Please note, all postings are the personal opinions of the members posting, the owner, administrators and moderators of the forum do not warrant the accuracy of posted information or endorse the safety of such.