200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.
Jwalton121692
Does anyone know the deminsions to build a carrying box for a Coleman 220 lantern
Jason Walton
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25 502s
I would measure the lantern and go from there. The case could be huge if you want to put other stuff in there or it could be just big enough to hold the lantern. 

Welcome from Texas. 
Jason
not looking for any more Bday gpas. Honestly, if you have a 10-72 don’t let me know about it.
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0214
Coleman Slant Saver #56
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #31
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Chevyboy89
Welcome from Central Kentucky
Zach
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0223
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NWMike
Also depends on the age of the 220, the earlier ones are taller than the ones that came after.  I think it's B thru E and F to the end, but it's early still and I'm waiting for my coffee.
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dnishimura01
Measure the wides part, usually the bail handle. That’s the diagonal dimensions of the box. Then use Pythagorean’s formula to figure the sides and add about 3/4 inch to the sides. Make the whole box with bottom and top and about 15-16 inches high. When done cut the box about 3-4 inches from the top. This will make the lid. Cutting the box this way makes a better box. Hinge it up one side and latch the other.  Make a rope handle.  I made a few. But now I like making Hexagon shape boxes. More complicated but looks nicer.
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Phredd
The hexagonal box sounds cool!  How about a photo?

Phredd
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dnishimura01
E2861B1A-7667-4F36-B498-2ABD2B3B6B73.png 
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dnishimura01
42505D4C-9067-4747-9580-335D744957A5.png 
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dnishimura01
I made these to fit 220F but fits 220E. Making 228E/F later. Got the plans but not the time.
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dnishimura01
I can give you the plans but you need a table saw or some way to cut a 30 degree angle. Use cedar fence boards or some cheap 1/2 inch boards or 1/2 plywood. 
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dnishimura01
The wood I used was 1/2 Poplar from a wood working hardwood speciality store. Cost about $20 for the wood, but turn out looking good. Other cheaper wood you can paint white and wood cost about $5-10, the hardest part is getting that 30 degree cut exact. Use pneumatic nailer and counter sink and fill with putty. sand smooth. Cut a piano hinge to size and a cam latch. Get some seatbelt like strapping and a strip of aluminum to secure strap as a handle. You can make it less complicated if it’s a square rectangular box, but lots of extra space. 
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bdickson
Tried to find my original post on this but no luck so will have to go a bit from memory. I used Mike Freda's (Flyball Products) original 200 box plans and adapted as best I could. A bit of trial and error.

1) Measure lantern height, width (with handle down and measure widest part).
2) Think about it and then add some for margin of error.
3) Since it is 1/4" birch ply and I didn't want to grind off screw tips I added a bit plus 1/4"
4) This 1/4" was so I could cut some pieces to line the top of the box to hide small screws with no cutting (I did add these after initial assembly and cutting of box although could probably do this at beginning.)
5) Cut and Sand all pieces and paint B4 assembly (found easier).
After cutting and glue/nail base together you can also drill bottom of base to install some small wood buttons (the ones used to hide screws etc.) to act as feet for finished lantern.
6) Glue and nail (used small brad nail gun) and clamp for a bit, then cut off top of box with table saw or band saw. I used my table saw with miter gauge. Keep as tight as possible and can use fence also if cutting slow.
7) The cut is at a distance you prefer but probably 2-3 inches. (Make sure this is the top of the box as bottom has the 1/4" ply with hole cut to hold lantern base.)
8) Remember to drill small hole in top (if not done previously) to hold the lantern nut. (bigger than the nut)
9) Install hinges and latch and handle for box.
10) Touch up paint and can give it all a spray with clear coat of choice. (remove hinges etc).


I found after the first one you remember your mistakes and they become somewhat easier to make. Hopefully this does help and double check all measures before cutting. One other note: for some reason when cutting box the table saw blade cuts a bit deeper on the joined sides - must have something to do with the kerf of blade. This also happend when cutting some off a shelf with sides recently. I had to sand a bit to even up. Box top does not fit perfect but passable. If I solve this problem I will get back to you. Right now I have been onto some other projects.
Sorry but it's "Zed" not "Zee" for Z and a lot of "our" words end in "our" not "or" it's a Canadian thing.
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smithers646
This is a great thread!  One question I've been mulling: is there any need or benefit to putting some sort of foam spacers below and beside the globe, while it's installed in the frame?  Seems like it should be done, as it would otherwise be rattling around, and would possibly break the globe.  
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Phredd
That octagonal box looks great!  I'm jealous!!
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dnishimura01
I don’t seems use any padding. Just keep the box up right. Vent seem to keep things safe. Bother my Hexahon and rectangular boxes. 
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dnishimura01
They are Hexagon 6 sides. Not octagon 8 side. Octagon I thought would not be strong.
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dnishimura01
A7318FF1-63E4-4E80-B956-2D3C4FA30707.png Another view
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