200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

smudvapor
I am sorry guys but the stove is out in my camper and I haven't dug it out yet.  I wanted to ask a question anyway.  I have an old 3 burner camping stove, off the top of my had I am thinking maybe a 426.  The last time we used it, it didn't work very well so I thought I would take it apart and give it a once over.  My question:  Is there anything special I should know?  Thanks.
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Chucker
When washing/cleaning off grease, often paint will come with it. 

Whatever color you paint it you might want to apply a topcoat of clear Engine Enamel as it is heat resistant up to 500 deg. F and oil/gas resistant as well. Make sure you check the operation of the unit BEFORE disassembly so you don't bang things up or scratch a new paint job. 

When you use it again you might line it with aluminum foil under the burners and get a zippered pillow case to store it in. 


Chuck
"...we also glory in our sufferings, because we know that suffering produces perseverance; perseverance, character; and character, hope" Romans 5:3-4
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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nomis1
When taking apart the burners, take a picture of how the burner rings are stacked. You want those to go back in the same order. Easy thing to overlook.

Simon
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Majicwrench
If it didn't work well, first thing ya gotta do is make sure fill cap gasket is sealing, pump it up good and piss with soapy water. This is assuming that it pumps up....if you can't feel resistance (like pushing air) when pumping, pull pump and oil pump cup. 

Anyway, when you get to stove, I would recommend running it, and fixing whatever issues you have before you bother to clean it up much. 
 When you get er running, let us know what is going on and help will be forthcoming I'm sure.


Keith
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ke4ljh


My suggestion is to clean the burner rings first. That may be the only problem. I use a small stainless steel toothbrush size brush. Even if the rings look clean, brush both sides of those rings, wipe off and reassemble.

Pump it up.  If it does not pump, you need a pump cup. Does it hold pressure. It may need a fuel cap gasket. These are the first three items to check.

Test Light the stove.

Make sure there is plenty of fuel in it. Testing with a low fuel tank is not good. You don't know if it's a low fuel problem or not. The F/A pickup tube in the tank will not draw all of the fuel out of the tank. Start with a half tank of fuel.

Make sure the lighting lever is in the up position until flames turn blue. If yellow flames result from turning the lighting lever down, it means the generator is not hot enough yet, turn the lighting lever back up for a minute. Then down again. You may find during this process that you will need to continue pumping the stove up to keep the pressure up. When the lighting lever is up vapor from the top of the tank is drawn out for starting. When the lever is down liquid fuel is drawn into the generator after it is hot enough to vaporize the fuel.

If after cleaning the burner rings you still have challenges starting the stove. Let us know and describe in detail what you did and what the result was so we can help. Pics of the problem can be helpful as well.

When ever I have lighting issues I usually clean the burner rings first then stepwise look at other things. When those burner rings get the slightest dust on them air flow is obstructed causing yellow flames and the stove not getting a good hot blue flame that you want.


Stephen - Florida
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smudvapor
The last time we used it (Fall) it would light but you had to turn in way up and then if you turned it down it wouldn't stay lit.  I can pump it up and it pumps up really nice and will light up.  You have to keep checking it because it will go out on its own,  I pump it back up and it lights back up and runs for a while.  I can never get it to run at a steady pace, it is either too high or too low. I hope I explained this right.
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Billofthenorth
Sounds like a pressure leak. Check the fuel cap gasket.
- I've been adapting all my life and I'm too old to change now.

~Bill

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smudvapor
I am going to pull it out of the camper tomorrow and check it out.
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Majicwrench
Like Bill said.....if you have to pump it back up to get it to light again, you have a pressure problem.
Looking forward to hearing more..
Keith
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ke4ljh
Here is how I get the old gaskets out takes but a few minutes and your done!

Below on the left is the inner piece of a three piece fuel cap. You may have a three piece fuel cap, it's all brass so the propane torch won't damage it.

On the right is the standard one piece cap. In this case the older cap was brass so I did't mind burning the paint off. I don't know if the lateset caps are brass or not. With a three piece cap you don't heat up the painted part of the cap, just the inner brass piece. So you don't lose the paint on the three piece caps.



I did both the inner piece of the three piece cap and a newer one piece cap at the same time.



Burn them for about a minute and then let them cool. Then pick out the ashes and burnt pieces. Plug the new gasket in and your done.







This is what your three piece fuel cap looks like disassembled. The measurements were taken with a dial vernier caliper.



There are two different size gaskets for the three piece caps. You can't go buy the year of your stove because over the years often they have a fuel cap that came from somewhere else.

If you need to buy replacement gaskets talk to Mike at oldcolemanparts first so you get the right ones.


Stephen - Florida
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Tigerfans2
Sometimes you dont burn the 1 piecers because of originality but to each his own. Google Craftsman 4 pc. Hook and Pick Set with Cushioned Grip Handles, the one with the bent pick will get the old 1 piece gasket out after a few puncture wounds to your thumb
Coleman Slant Saver #58
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #8
Coleman Blues 243's #16
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smudvapor
smudvapor wrote:
Okay guys I finally dug her out of the camper and changed the seal in the cap on the tank.  She really roars now!  I have a knew guy question.  Someone please explain the little lever on the valve.  Is that just to clean or do you put it in one position to light and another after it is lit?  I included a picture of it.  Last thing.  Anyone got any ideas as to model and year of my stove?  I can't find anything on it.  Thanks.  Can't wait to cook something on it!

DSC01522.jpg  DSC01523.jpg 
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Eel
The lever operates the instant-light circuit (FA tube rod). 

Stoves work "just like" lanterns.  (It took me quite awhile, I mean years, to figure this out.)

You know how, with a lantern, you open the valve 1/4 turn, light it, then open the valve all the way when it's burning well?
This starts the lantern with the FA rod down, so both fuel and fount air are drawn in - Instant-Light in action! - then when the valve is opened all the way, the F/A rod moves up so fuel cuts off fount air? 
The F/A tube rod in a stove is moved down and up by that "Up to light - Down to burn" lever.  So when the lever is moved up, the F/A rod is moved down, and both fuel and fount air are sent to the gen - Instant-Light in action!  When the lever is down, the F/A rod moves up so fuel cuts off fount air.

The knob on the stove operates the fuel on/off valve in the brass valve body.  That knob also operates the gen pricker rod, which is also used as the fine fuel control.  On a pre-1975 lantern, the knob operates on/off in the brass body, and the tip cleaner stem works much like the stove's fine fuel control at the hot end of the generator.

OK, done with the continuous editing process... sorry.

EEL Eclectic Lanterns, div.  Doofenshmirtz-EEL Incorporated.

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papa
Majicwrench, please explain "pump it up good and piss with soapy water". Thanks.
Ps 34:6_ This poor man cried, and the Lord heard him, and saved him out of all his troubles.             KJV
Bernzomatic Appreciation Club #064
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offrink
Put soapy water all over it. Especially at the valve and fuel cap. If you see bunny come out/appear then you have an air leak. I use a bucket or sink of water.
Ben
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate Member #0035
Looking for B-Day dates of 6/80, 2/84, 3/11, and 12/13
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smudvapor
Thanks for the info and the gaskets, they fit perfectly and she works great now!  Any ideas on the year and model?

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Chucker
I think Ben meant, "...If you see bubbles come out..."
Chuck
"...we also glory in our sufferings, because we know that suffering produces perseverance; perseverance, character; and character, hope" Romans 5:3-4
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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fuel brained
Post a picture this helps a lot. Look on the front of the case and look for the model number. It will most likely be a 426 model. The letter will tell which version. Look on the under side of the tank tabs there is usually a number code. This is the month and year.
God bless. Pastor Jeff
gleaming-silver-jesus-fish-smiley-emoticon.gif
Pastor Jeff
God said "Let there be light" so He let His Son shine.
SoCal and Lovin' It. Desert Rat Division
US Navy Submarine Cold War Veteran
MilSpec Ops #1960 "Feel the Roar"
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offrink
Chucker wrote:
I think Ben meant, "...If you see bubbles come out..."


Well if you see bubbles you know you have a small leak. If you see bunnies come out you have BIG problems!
Ben
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate Member #0035
Looking for B-Day dates of 6/80, 2/84, 3/11, and 12/13
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Chucker
Baaa! Good Ben!
Chuck
"...we also glory in our sufferings, because we know that suffering produces perseverance; perseverance, character; and character, hope" Romans 5:3-4
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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Eel
And if Bubbles and Bunny are both here... you're in trouble with your spouse when you get home.

EEL Eclectic Lanterns, div.  Doofenshmirtz-EEL Incorporated.

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