200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

10gage
I’ve looked up old discussions on this subject and decided on buna over viton mostly do to price. My question is, is there a certain type I should get ? I found some 60a durometer stuff. Descriptions aren’t always great on most sites. So will any buna n work?
im tired of failing pips that don’t last long in my m1950. I’m ordering a punch set as well.
James sizemore
milspec syndicate #1941
slant savers #68
quicklite crew#43
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gpaguy
I would check out this thread. Lots of good info. here. I just tried a new pip made of Buna in a Lindaman and Hooverson lantern and it didn't work. I ended up buying the same Viton material that Bob did and that stuff was 54 dollars for a 6 x 6 x 1/8" piece. ouch ! And we don't know about it's long term durability. Then make your decision.

https://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/post/new-pip-material-10597458?pid=1312374897


John
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Tgarner01
James, I've had good luck cutting automotive o-rings. Find the right diameter then get a sharp thin knife or razor blade and cut them as flat as possible. I have a huge selection of o rings here at the shop so I don't really know what I grabbed now... I believe they are 4.5mm? Still working last I checked in my M1950. One word of caution, I have never tried it in cold weather. I would think that might make a difference.
Toby Garner
ICCC #1939
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10gage
Tgarner01 wrote:
James, I've had good luck cutting automotive o-rings. Find the right diameter then get a sharp thin knife or razor blade and cut them as flat as possible. I have a huge selection of o rings here at the shop so I don't really know what I grabbed now... I believe they are 4.5mm? Still working last I checked in my M1950. One word of caution, I have never tried it in cold weather. I would think that might make a difference.


i did that recently on my m1942. I need to pull that one out and see.
James sizemore
milspec syndicate #1941
slant savers #68
quicklite crew#43
Quote
Tgarner01
I think I used the same o ring to do a couple stoves a couple lanterns and a blow torch or two... None of them are everyday users, but I check them now and then and seem to always work... I'm not a pip fan..
Toby Garner
ICCC #1939
Quote
10gage
Tgarner01 wrote:
I think I used the same o ring to do a couple stoves a couple lanterns and a blow torch or two... None of them are everyday users, but I check them now and then and seem to always work... I'm not a pip fan..



me either I would love for someone to develop a check valve to be screwed in the the bottom of these. 
James sizemore
milspec syndicate #1941
slant savers #68
quicklite crew#43
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Chucker
In my experience either BunaN or Viton at 60-65 Durometer are good. 
Chuck
"Pleasant words are a honeycomb, Sweet to the soul and healing to the bones." Proverbs 16:24
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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Gunhippie
Buna N (Nitrile rubber)  at 60-65 duro is perfectly acceptable for a pip. The question being: Is it really Buna N?
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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Coldwaterpaddler
A lot of us chimed in with opinions and experiences on the link provided by gpaguy. It's fun to play around with materials, but really it's not that bad to change on an M-1950 or M-1942, so if you just plan on changing it once per year at the beginning of the season I don't think it's too bad. I think my one sons has been running an ECH or BunaN 60A in his M-1942 MOD for three years without issue and he uses it a lot. I'm currently running Fluorosilicone in mine and it's been perfect. Like Viton, Fluorosilicone is expensive. I have sheets of all that stuff.

A conversion would be tough (I've thought about it myself) because the ball check valve is meant to have a stem to close it tightly after pumping, so to do that mod, you'd need to modify the pump assembly, too. If it's the transport you don't like (risking fuel seeping out) then removing the pump during transport and replacing it with a solid cap would be a good solution, like this (except where do you store the pump?):
M1950_Plastic_cap.jpg 

I've been using one on my M-1950 spare fuel can like the one on the left in the photo (along with a plug I made for the middle):
M1950_Fuelcan_Stove.jpg 
Stovie-Steve
"Don't let the weather run your life" - Steve
The Coleman Blues - #95
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10gage
Gunhippie wrote:
Buna N (Nitrile rubber)  at 60-65 duro is perfectly acceptable for a pip. The question being: Is it really Buna N?


 and that’s it The ones I’ve gotten don’t last 2weeks. So I dought it’s good buna n
James sizemore
milspec syndicate #1941
slant savers #68
quicklite crew#43
Quote
Gunhippie
If you got them from our usual source, there was a problem a year or two back with pips swelling to where they would pass no air. I hope that's been resolved. Obviously, their source was passing some bad goods.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
10gage
Gunhippie wrote:
If you got them from our usual source, there was a problem a year or two back with pips swelling to where they would pass no air. I hope that's been resolved. Obviously, their source was passing some bad goods.


thats where they came from
James sizemore
milspec syndicate #1941
slant savers #68
quicklite crew#43
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