200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.
HwyChef
This is way off topic here at CCF, but since there are so many very knowledgeable folks out there, i'll post this question anyway: Does anyone have experience with mat style heating elements?

I have a ca. 1950s Pizzelle iron  from Switzerland passed down from grandma to mom and now it's mine. I've been using it for over 10 years, and it finally gave up. This is a unit with metal housing, cast iron cooking surface, and what appears to be a mat style heating element. It's a 240v  500w unit that I have been powering with a step up converter rated up to 1000w.
IMG_2865.jpg 
IMG_2866.jpg 
It started a few years ago, when I found it wouldn't heat evenly. I made due, and kept her going. Last year's cookie season she died completely. I took her apart and found this inside:
IMG_2858.jpg  IMG_2859.jpg 
The mats, one on top, one on the bottom, heat the cast iron and controlled through a mechanical thermostat. The closest I have found is "Micanite" that is formed into mats. Can something like that be custom cut?
This is what my baby used to be able to do:
IMG_1540.jpg  IMG_1541.jpg 
I'm afraid my images aren't close enough to see the detail, but the "cigar" looking cookies are pulled out of the iron flat, then rolled on a wooden spoon. There is a very intricate design / motif that is really the reason to try and resurrect her. Thanks for looking in.
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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Bob1774
Not sure if it is still available, but there was a listing on etsy for one similar from New Zealand.  Pricey at $1,843.60, but they might throw in free shipping?
https://www.etsy.com/nz/listing/710552957/rare-jura-electric-brazeli-bratseli?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=pizzelle+iron&ref=sr_gallery-1-5
Bob
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HwyChef
Thanks for the link Bob. $1200+ US is a bit steep for a glorified waffle iron!
Dan
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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zoomkat
"and it finally gave up"

So what actually failed? If you can figure that out without causing further damage, there could be a fix. If the failure is in the "mat style heating element" which I'm not familiar with, there is a possibility of replacing the wire in the mat.
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JimL
It might be darn near impossible, but I'd see if I could find an old-time appliance repair place.  By that, I mean someone who's been doing it all his/her life and it's now more of something to keep them busy.  Definitely not a major/chain repair place.

-Jim

Have you ever imagined a world with no hypothetical situations?
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HwyChef
I have been on the lookout for a "retired" German elicitation for a few years now!  The heating mats are very brittle, and I know I lost a few pieces just from taking it apart.  I have found a couple of places online, and I got a PM from a member here referring me to a company, that all specialize in making custom heating mats for all kinds of industries. My interest right now is something made of silicon, that can be custom cut to any size, shape, etc. that heats up to 400f. I can't be sure, but my guess is the iron used to heat to about 325f or so. So there are options, I just have to find the right place. But a one-off special order might make it a non-starter from the get go. I've been searching CL and other places for used waffle irons, in hopes of cannibalizing the innards.
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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fuel brained
As a cook I hope you get that beauty going again. To nice to let it die
Pastor Jeff
God said "Let there be light" so He let His Son shine.
SoCal and Lovin' It
US Navy Submarine Cold War Veteran
MilSpec Ops #1960 "Feel the Roar"
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Weirdnerd
I would take it apart and make a hand operated Coleman stove version with a couple of handles.... If I was in Peru, there are some resourceful "fix everything" people there...but in the US, the only thing I can suggest is this:  https://www.amazon.com/Pizzelle-Non-stick-Electric-Cookies-Included/dp/B000I1QJ06
Can't sleep, squirrels will eat me....

If you need a Sun Flame Generator Model 100-107 ( for Sunflame lanterns models 105, 106, 107 and 110) give me a PM, I have close to 80 of those, 15 bucks each.


Werner
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campinut
If it has a coiled heating element wire inside and the 2 halves cannot be separated? You are at the end of the rope. I suspect the element has a broken coil and was making a loose connection till it burned into and separated. Check for continuity at each end of the wires. If none? then it is burnt, or in other words, Toast..Sorry, bad pun..
campinut..
Like a moth at night, I am attracted to the light!..7/7/1964...Russ, from Missouri..
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zoomkat
If you have a multimeter with an audio continuity feature, you could connect the leads to the mat connectors and gently massage the mat element path to find a possible break. A break in the heating element wire could probably be reconnected by placing the element ends in the crimp section of a small electrical eyelet connector and crimping them together. The problem may also be in the switch or in in the wiring that flexes between the two appliance halves, or in other areas of the electrical circuit. There is also the possibility to just replace the broken element wire with a element wire from a $10 Walmart electric space heater, which would allow the appliance to operate on 120v power.
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HwyChef
Thanks all for the suggestions.  There are no coils. My guess is there are ribbon type wires sandwiched in between the glass mats. There are two leads coming off of them, one on top, one on bottom, and they are wired to a mechanical thermostat. I'll have take it all apart, take some better images, and post them. I'll try plugging it in and using a volt meter to check if there is current to the thermo. I'll try the Ohm meter to see if there is a break inside the mats that I can't see.  It's a 220v unit, so i'll have to break out the very heavy 1000W inverter. 
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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zoomkat
"I'll try plugging it in and using a volt meter to check if there is current to the thermo."

Well, I'd just suggest you not do any testing with the unit powered up for now. You should be able to do trouble without power on the appliance. Just saying...
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tcanthonyii
There is a place here in Lincoln Nebraska called electric shaver corporation or something like that. They are always fixing coffee pots and the like. Been a while since I’ve been in there but I’d anyone can fix it would be them. 
T.C.
Thomas Charles Anthony II
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HwyChef
So I had some time yesterday before company came for diner (the wife said "what are you starting now?!" So I took apart my iron to better document what I need. So it's a 1950s era Pizzelle iron (Bretzeli in Swiss German) that didn't heat. So I started by turning the "Jura" emblem counter clockwise and removed it which allowed me to take the white metal cap off and I found this.
   IMG_0992.jpg  IMG_0993.jpg 
There are tow leads attached to the heating mat, and a ground wire attached to the cast iron. I removed 5 bolts, all 10mm and pulled off the steel plate to find an aluminum plate under that.
IMG_0994.jpg  IMG_0995.jpg 
Under the aluminum plate I found the heating mat. It appears to be some kind of fiberglass mat with wires laminated to the bottom, in between another fiberglass mat.
IMG_0996.jpg
IMG_0997.jpg  
I used a multi meter set to Ohms, and I got a good reading when I touched both leads to each wire; there was continuity.
IMG_0999.jpg  IMG_0998.jpg  IMG_1000.jpg 
I pulled apart the bottom half and and found a similar mat, plus the thermostat.
IMG_1005.jpg  IMG_1006.jpg  IMG_1007.jpg  IMG_1011.jpg  IMG_1010.jpg 
I've tried looking for a similar part online, but you can imagine that I was unsuccessful.  All the contacts were tight, the wires seemed in order, but I just don't know why it wasn't heating. I'll have to plug the iron in and make sure i'm getting power through the cable and to the iron. If any of this looks familiar, please chime in! 
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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zoomkat
With the appliance in the "on" position and unplugged, have you used the multimeter on the appliance's power plug to see if you have continuity thru the appliance? If there is no continuity, then you should be able to work thru the unit to find the interruption. If there is continuity thru the unit, then your power supply may be defective. 
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HwyChef
Zoomkat, there is no "on" button, it's on when plugged in! It theory it's a very simple circuit. Power is delivered to the thermostat that should be "On" until such time that it gets too hot, which should cut power by expanding the contact points mechanically, thus cutting off power. When it cools, the points make contact again and power is delivered and the mat heats back up and so do the cast iron plates. There is an adjustment screw with makings, + and - which I'm guessing is to set the temperature at which time the contact points separate. It may be that it's not adjusted correctly. I'll have to play with it under power. My transformer has a breaker, and it's plugged into a CGIF outlet!
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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zoomkat
 "It may be that it's not adjusted correctly"

So who "unadjusted" it? You should be able to determine if the thermostat is the issue in a couple of seconds. The contacts could be needing cleaning. Some appliances like these have internal fuses that may be blown. With the unit disassembled you should be able to find the electrical issue quite quickly. Good luck! 
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Weirdnerd
That is not fiberglass, it is Mica, and the elements should be Monel, or Inconel....Old school stuff there. check the mechanical connections for the wires, most of the time it is caked with corrosion and they lose connectivity.
Can't sleep, squirrels will eat me....

If you need a Sun Flame Generator Model 100-107 ( for Sunflame lanterns models 105, 106, 107 and 110) give me a PM, I have close to 80 of those, 15 bucks each.


Werner
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offrink
I agree with these guys. Slowly take one wire off at a time and clean it and put it back on. You need no power to check if electricity is flowing through. That’s what the meter is for. While it might not be a lot of power and that is why cleaning the connections should help. Just be happy the thermostat didn’t go out and the heating mats kept getting hotter until there was a fire. 
Ben
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate Member #0035
Looking for B-Day dates of 6/80, 2/84, 3/11, and 12/13
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HwyChef
I followed all the leads, each wire is terminated with a secure connection. The Mica is very brittle, and any manipulation causes flakes to fall off.  I'm getting continuity through the mats, so that would mean no breaks there. I'm still messing with the mechanical thermostat; but can't get a consistent reading. I have to pull the contact points apart with a toothpick, measure, then let them reconnect and measure again, but that won't work up til now. So it just might be the points need a little 1000 grit sandpaper. I have yet to find something that looks like a fuse or a breaker that might be blown.
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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zoomkat
You could jumper out the thermostat then check at the wall plug to see if you have continuity thru the rest of the unit. Most appliances of this type have thermal fuses (usually a small round silver thing) that protect against a runway over heating condition in case the thermostat fails. Go easy with the sand paper as some contacts (especially high current units)  have a silver coating on the surface that might be harmed.
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