200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.
HwyChef
This is way off topic here at CCF, but since there are so many very knowledgeable folks out there, i'll post this question anyway: Does anyone have experience with mat style heating elements?

I have a ca. 1950s Pizzelle iron  from Switzerland passed down from grandma to mom and now it's mine. I've been using it for over 10 years, and it finally gave up. This is a unit with metal housing, cast iron cooking surface, and what appears to be a mat style heating element. It's a 240v  500w unit that I have been powering with a step up converter rated up to 1000w.
IMG_2865.jpg 
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It started a few years ago, when I found it wouldn't heat evenly. I made due, and kept her going. Last year's cookie season she died completely. I took her apart and found this inside:
IMG_2858.jpg  IMG_2859.jpg 
The mats, one on top, one on the bottom, heat the cast iron and controlled through a mechanical thermostat. The closest I have found is "Micanite" that is formed into mats. Can something like that be custom cut?
This is what my baby used to be able to do:
IMG_1540.jpg  IMG_1541.jpg 
I'm afraid my images aren't close enough to see the detail, but the "cigar" looking cookies are pulled out of the iron flat, then rolled on a wooden spoon. There is a very intricate design / motif that is really the reason to try and resurrect her. Thanks for looking in.
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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Bob1774
Not sure if it is still available, but there was a listing on etsy for one similar from New Zealand.  Pricey at $1,843.60, but they might throw in free shipping?
https://www.etsy.com/nz/listing/710552957/rare-jura-electric-brazeli-bratseli?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=pizzelle+iron&ref=sr_gallery-1-5
Bob
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HwyChef
Thanks for the link Bob. $1200+ US is a bit steep for a glorified waffle iron!
Dan
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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zoomkat
"and it finally gave up"

So what actually failed? If you can figure that out without causing further damage, there could be a fix. If the failure is in the "mat style heating element" which I'm not familiar with, there is a possibility of replacing the wire in the mat.
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JimL
It might be darn near impossible, but I'd see if I could find an old-time appliance repair place.  By that, I mean someone who's been doing it all his/her life and it's now more of something to keep them busy.  Definitely not a major/chain repair place.

-Jim

Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do.
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HwyChef
I have been on the lookout for a "retired" German elicitation for a few years now!  The heating mats are very brittle, and I know I lost a few pieces just from taking it apart.  I have found a couple of places online, and I got a PM from a member here referring me to a company, that all specialize in making custom heating mats for all kinds of industries. My interest right now is something made of silicon, that can be custom cut to any size, shape, etc. that heats up to 400f. I can't be sure, but my guess is the iron used to heat to about 325f or so. So there are options, I just have to find the right place. But a one-off special order might make it a non-starter from the get go. I've been searching CL and other places for used waffle irons, in hopes of cannibalizing the innards.
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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fuel brained
As a cook I hope you get that beauty going again. To nice to let it die
Pastor Jeff
God said "Let there be light" so He let His Son shine.
SoCal and Lovin' It
US Navy Submarine Cold War Veteran
MilSpec Ops #1960 "Feel the Roar"
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Weirdnerd
I would take it apart and make a hand operated Coleman stove version with a couple of handles.... If I was in Peru, there are some resourceful "fix everything" people there...but in the US, the only thing I can suggest is this:  https://www.amazon.com/Pizzelle-Non-stick-Electric-Cookies-Included/dp/B000I1QJ06
Can't sleep, squirrels will eat me....

If you need a Sun Flame Generator Model 100-107 ( for Sunflame lanterns models 105, 106, 107 and 110) give me a PM, I have close to 80 of those, 15 bucks each.


Werner
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campinut
If it has a coiled heating element wire inside and the 2 halves cannot be separated? You are at the end of the rope. I suspect the element has a broken coil and was making a loose connection till it burned into and separated. Check for continuity at each end of the wires. If none? then it is burnt, or in other words, Toast..Sorry, bad pun..
campinut..
Like a moth at night, I am attracted to the light!..7/7/1964...Russ, from Missouri..
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zoomkat
If you have a multimeter with an audio continuity feature, you could connect the leads to the mat connectors and gently massage the mat element path to find a possible break. A break in the heating element wire could probably be reconnected by placing the element ends in the crimp section of a small electrical eyelet connector and crimping them together. The problem may also be in the switch or in in the wiring that flexes between the two appliance halves, or in other areas of the electrical circuit. There is also the possibility to just replace the broken element wire with a element wire from a $10 Walmart electric space heater, which would allow the appliance to operate on 120v power.
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HwyChef
Thanks all for the suggestions.  There are no coils. My guess is there are ribbon type wires sandwiched in between the glass mats. There are two leads coming off of them, one on top, one on bottom, and they are wired to a mechanical thermostat. I'll have take it all apart, take some better images, and post them. I'll try plugging it in and using a volt meter to check if there is current to the thermo. I'll try the Ohm meter to see if there is a break inside the mats that I can't see.  It's a 220v unit, so i'll have to break out the very heavy 1000W inverter. 
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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zoomkat
"I'll try plugging it in and using a volt meter to check if there is current to the thermo."

Well, I'd just suggest you not do any testing with the unit powered up for now. You should be able to do trouble without power on the appliance. Just saying...
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tcanthonyii
There is a place here in Lincoln Nebraska called electric shaver corporation or something like that. They are always fixing coffee pots and the like. Been a while since I’ve been in there but I’d anyone can fix it would be them. 
T.C.
Thomas Charles Anthony II
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HwyChef
So I had some time yesterday before company came for diner (the wife said "what are you starting now?!" So I took apart my iron to better document what I need. So it's a 1950s era Pizzelle iron (Bretzeli in Swiss German) that didn't heat. So I started by turning the "Jura" emblem counter clockwise and removed it which allowed me to take the white metal cap off and I found this.
   IMG_0992.jpg  IMG_0993.jpg 
There are tow leads attached to the heating mat, and a ground wire attached to the cast iron. I removed 5 bolts, all 10mm and pulled off the steel plate to find an aluminum plate under that.
IMG_0994.jpg  IMG_0995.jpg 
Under the aluminum plate I found the heating mat. It appears to be some kind of fiberglass mat with wires laminated to the bottom, in between another fiberglass mat.
IMG_0996.jpg
IMG_0997.jpg  
I used a multi meter set to Ohms, and I got a good reading when I touched both leads to each wire; there was continuity.
IMG_0999.jpg  IMG_0998.jpg  IMG_1000.jpg 
I pulled apart the bottom half and and found a similar mat, plus the thermostat.
IMG_1005.jpg  IMG_1006.jpg  IMG_1007.jpg  IMG_1011.jpg  IMG_1010.jpg 
I've tried looking for a similar part online, but you can imagine that I was unsuccessful.  All the contacts were tight, the wires seemed in order, but I just don't know why it wasn't heating. I'll have to plug the iron in and make sure i'm getting power through the cable and to the iron. If any of this looks familiar, please chime in! 
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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zoomkat
With the appliance in the "on" position and unplugged, have you used the multimeter on the appliance's power plug to see if you have continuity thru the appliance? If there is no continuity, then you should be able to work thru the unit to find the interruption. If there is continuity thru the unit, then your power supply may be defective. 
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HwyChef
Zoomkat, there is no "on" button, it's on when plugged in! It theory it's a very simple circuit. Power is delivered to the thermostat that should be "On" until such time that it gets too hot, which should cut power by expanding the contact points mechanically, thus cutting off power. When it cools, the points make contact again and power is delivered and the mat heats back up and so do the cast iron plates. There is an adjustment screw with makings, + and - which I'm guessing is to set the temperature at which time the contact points separate. It may be that it's not adjusted correctly. I'll have to play with it under power. My transformer has a breaker, and it's plugged into a CGIF outlet!
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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zoomkat
 "It may be that it's not adjusted correctly"

So who "unadjusted" it? You should be able to determine if the thermostat is the issue in a couple of seconds. The contacts could be needing cleaning. Some appliances like these have internal fuses that may be blown. With the unit disassembled you should be able to find the electrical issue quite quickly. Good luck! 
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Weirdnerd
That is not fiberglass, it is Mica, and the elements should be Monel, or Inconel....Old school stuff there. check the mechanical connections for the wires, most of the time it is caked with corrosion and they lose connectivity.
Can't sleep, squirrels will eat me....

If you need a Sun Flame Generator Model 100-107 ( for Sunflame lanterns models 105, 106, 107 and 110) give me a PM, I have close to 80 of those, 15 bucks each.


Werner
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offrink
I agree with these guys. Slowly take one wire off at a time and clean it and put it back on. You need no power to check if electricity is flowing through. That’s what the meter is for. While it might not be a lot of power and that is why cleaning the connections should help. Just be happy the thermostat didn’t go out and the heating mats kept getting hotter until there was a fire. 
Ben
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate Member #0035
Looking for B-Day dates of 6/80, 2/84, 3/11, and 12/13
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HwyChef
I followed all the leads, each wire is terminated with a secure connection. The Mica is very brittle, and any manipulation causes flakes to fall off.  I'm getting continuity through the mats, so that would mean no breaks there. I'm still messing with the mechanical thermostat; but can't get a consistent reading. I have to pull the contact points apart with a toothpick, measure, then let them reconnect and measure again, but that won't work up til now. So it just might be the points need a little 1000 grit sandpaper. I have yet to find something that looks like a fuse or a breaker that might be blown.
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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zoomkat
You could jumper out the thermostat then check at the wall plug to see if you have continuity thru the rest of the unit. Most appliances of this type have thermal fuses (usually a small round silver thing) that protect against a runway over heating condition in case the thermostat fails. Go easy with the sand paper as some contacts (especially high current units)  have a silver coating on the surface that might be harmed.
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HwyChef
So it's been a while since I played with my cookie iron.  Found an old electric griddle at the GoodWill store and I thought It just might work.  So, now my problem is this: how does one get the heating elements out of the "pinched" aluminum base? The copper tube seems to be filled with a chalk / rock like substance. There is a solid copper wire running through the middle. When I lift the end, the chalk crumbles. Any ideas would be appreciated! Cheers. IMG_4022.jpg  IMG_4023.jpg  IMG_4024.jpg   
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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campinut
All types of heating appliances are set at different temps due to element diameter and length so finding something that would work on your iron is next to impossible. Try taking leads off terminals and making a short extension cord out of the brown and white flat cords from any store. Strip ends of wires and attach to iron leads. Make sure that you are bypassing thermostat as it seems like that is your problem. You can also clean contacts of the thermostat using a very fine sandpaper, like cleaning points in a distributor, on a vintage car.  Plug in just enough to feel the iron getting warm, then unplug. Did you disconnect wires and check the terminals by themselves? Checking continuity with wires detached will give you a true reading of the elements condition. The bimetal in the thremostat shuts off at preset time from heating up enough to bend metal and stop opening circuit. When bimetal starts to cool it pops back to make heat again. Hope this helps..campinut..
Like a moth at night, I am attracted to the light!..7/7/1964...Russ, from Missouri..
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Bob1774
If you have to have that model, there is one similar on eBay from France.  They might negotiate a better deal for you.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/183899711876
Too bad one sold in Chicago Oct 2018 for under $100...
Bob
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HwyChef
Campinut, I can direct connect bare wire extension cord to the iron, but it wants 224v, so I'll only be giving it half of what's needed. I'm going to see if I can find a new, old stock thermostat that runs on the 240v / 500W. At this point, that would be the easiest.  As for the griddle, it was a $9 project; well worth the try for my 60 year old iron. Research & development costs money!!
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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campinut
Sorry, did not realize it was 240 volt. Can you bypass thermostat and connect it up directly? Just to see if it starts to heat up?..campinut..
Like a moth at night, I am attracted to the light!..7/7/1964...Russ, from Missouri..
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Ciancio
The griddle uses a tube type element, similar to an electric oven at your house. They cannot be taken apart or reshaped.

As far as your Pizzelle iron, you have continuity thru the heating pads but what resentence are you reading? both elements should have about the same ohm reading. It really sounds like your problem is in the thermostat. Every time that thermostat opens there is a small spark between the points, over time this causes pitting and carbon buildup that starts to block the terminals from contacting properly. Some sand cloth or fine sandpaper is a good place to start if you want to try fixing the old one.
That thermostat looks very similar to the hi-limit thermostats used in foodservice hot wells, those ones are not adjustable but if the temperature is close enough its not a big deal. I will see if I have any at the shop tomorrow to check their rating.
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colemanholic
If it is your thermostat I might have one, that looks very similar, it is adjustable and is rated at 800 watts, usually it has a thermal fuse that goes out first.  
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HwyChef
colemanholic, thanks for the offer. I'm going to try and use a "whole" system that I canabalize from another iron / griddle.  I'd like it to run on 110v if i can find something that works. 
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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HwyChef
A little update on my "white turtle" cookie iron.  So after purchasing several waffle irons and trying to retro-fit the heating elements into my ca. 1960 iron, I gave up. The patient was dead!  THEN: by accident, I came across a website of a guy back east that"fixes" old Swiss cookie irons. I couldn't believe my eyes! Wrote the guy, called the guy, sent the guy my iron.  Great reviews, seemed like a nice guy. I was over the moon.   BUT.......then it came. An email asking me to call him.  I had sent my iron to him along with a check for a little more than he originally quoted me. When I call, the guy was nice, and I was giddy with expectations.  AND then it happened; the quote to fix it.  I almost dropped my phone. He not only wants an arm & a leg, but also the other two as well as my first 2 born!! I was angry and disappointed. I felt that I was being taken advantage of. My iron is very rare to buy. There may only be a few dozen left in the world functioning. I want to keep this custom going for my kids. With a grumble, I said "OK" we'll fix it. I could have bought a nice HDTV at the big box store for what he's charging! But, I'm telling myself that it's for a good cause, for my kids, to follow in my, my parents, and my grand parents' footsteps and keep it going.  I guess if I divide the years this thing has lasted by the price to fix it, my beer / wine costs are much higher per year!! Cheers! 
Cooking is the art of adjustment. – Jacques Pepin
b-day light of 01/69 sought after
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holliswood
Please be careful with the 220v!! It doesn’t let go. 
-Fred

MilSpec-Ops #1278
snipesfred on Insta
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BSAGuy
That sounds kinda like a bait and switch or a hostage taking.  He has your iron and you have the sunk cost of shipping, then suddenly, the price to fix it (the ransom) goes up.  Let's hope that he does a bang-up job.
- Courtenay
Be Prepared
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