200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

ecblanks

Had some time this weekend to scour some spots in rural VA and NC that I had been eyeballing on trips to my MIL's, which before were difficult to really dedicate time to while toting the family around.  But alas it wasn't to be.  The best thing I found was a broken amber on a 228H that I had to pass on.  
On the way home I made one last ditch stop, closer to home, that I've stopped in from time to time and while I never brought anything home, there were signs of promise . In a booth (one of the last, just before closing) where a guy usually had a $75 200A (which was still there) and some other lanterns ,I spied a curious looking device in the corner, buried under some cast iron griddles, with a telltale fuel knob that could only be Coleman.

I dug it out and noticed Coleman stamped on the burners and I knew I had hit it. I didn't recognize it at all though, so I hit Terry's site and identified it as a model 373, from the 30's. No recent sales on ebay so I had to take a chance on the price tag which I felt was reasonable, and plus i was just worth it to me. I had been wanting an old stove for while (something older than a 425 with CI).  Here is what I've got myself into.
IMG_20190714_183508.jpg 
Almost all of the paint from the chassis is gone.  I'm not much into painting, but this one will probably get the works. IMG_20190714_210750.jpg
Steel tank still has about half of it's paint, but it's flaking quickly. Some rust around the seams but I hope it's just external.  Lots of RUG residue in it.  This thing is huge . I bet i can get almost a whole can of fuel in it!   IMG_20190714_204442.jpg  IMG_20190714_203859.jpg  IMG_20190714_203850.jpg  IMG_20190714_203834.jpg
Already replaced the cap gasket and borrowed a stem from my 327 (I'll need one!) and was able to get air into it, so that's a start. Have to replace two packings on this one! <Mike rubbing his hands together greedily>.
IMG_20190714_203439.jpg  IMG_20190714_203431.jpg 
The telltale wheel I saw
IMG_20190714_203427.jpg
Love the stamped burner.
  IMG_20190714_203416.jpg 

I'm guessing no one has an unfired one of these (John?).  Need to know where to paint it.  Not even a hint of a decal on it, as I can see right now. 
I got all the tank disassembled last night and will clean up the nickeled brass and replace packings.  Then I need to do a bb dance and further inspect the tank.  This one will get a full fettle and lightup (hopefully) before I attempt to paint it.  I'll post updates here.

Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
sailman
Why can't I find stuff like this!!! Good luck with the tank. 
Greg,  KN4JZZ wtb 6/11 grandson
Quote
Legs
That is cool! Good to know that huge tank holds air. Nice find....

Let it burn....        
Don... Oregon
USA 236 Syndicate #003  Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0126  The Coleman Blue's 243's #097
Coleman Slant Saver 007  ICC #1438   NRA #147137741
Quote
Barrett
Nice score, and good spotting eye.
Definitely deserving of a full makeover, even without it it looks robust enough to see its 100th bday, given a new lease of life who knows how long you'll preserve that beauty for.
Andrew

Living and learning in NZ
Hoping to reach cognitive and emotional maturity before my children do.
Quote
ecblanks
sailman wrote:
Why can't I find stuff like this!!! Good luck with the tank. 

It's not for a lack of looking, and my find rate is still very low. I've never found anything at a yard sale (to the point I've almost stopped looking) and this is only the 2nd thing I've ever taken home from an antiques mall (the other being a very crusty 220D).
This was a little harder to spot than lanterns or suitcase stoves. I feel like I see a lot of old gravity fed kerosene stoves and newer , antique looking propane stoves that I have to visually filter out, so it was a little bit of luck that I spotted this one.
Anyway, as for progress, I'm mostly done with the "plumbing". Tonight I'm going to de-crud the tank and hopefully get it fired up. I tried to remove the burner (lots of dry grass in them) but all the screws and bolts are rusted on tight so I think I a little heat will be my friend (plus a 24hr PB Blaster soak).  Also had to soak the generator as the spring inside is steel and is rusted into place. This after doing a heat and quench.  
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
Mike
These are the ones that will try your patience--but are ultimately why many of us are in the hobby. I think you'll be pulling all of your rust-corrosion-seized screws/bolts/nuts tricks out of the book for this one!

Good luck on a mighty fine project!

Mike.
My best gal is a Coleman outing pal!
2 1/2 minutes to Midnight...
Quote
ecblanks
Yes, Mike, exactly. I'm beyond the repetition of fettling 220's, 200a', 237's and 242s, so exploring the nuances of this machine, while "appreciating" the limited availability of parts, has made this my favorite project in quite a while. I find it interesting that while this model was marketed as "economy", I don't think I've ever seen nickel laid on as thick as it is on the fuel delivery assembly (aka the plumbing).
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
holliswood
Cool find Carlton! I’ve had some decent luck looking into those nooks and crannies at antique malls where someone has hid it hoping no one sees it until they can afford to come back and get it. Looking forward to seeing your progress on this one. 
-Fred

ICCC Member #1871  -  MilSpec-Ops #1278  -  Coleman Quick Lite Crew #41
Perfection Heater Collectors #2   CANADIAN BLUES SYNDICATE #57  Coleman Slant Saver #65

snipesfred on Insta
Quote
ecblanks
Made a nice little fire pit out of it last night.
IMG_20190716_222405.jpg 
After reassembly I did a quick dunk test of the suspect areas and got the all clear for test fire.  I was hoping that putting heat to the burner screws would loosen them up, but i don't think the weak yellow flame got it hot enough.  Back to PB Blaster and torch.
I really need to get this burner off.  I wasn't getting good fuel flow through the manifold and the aux is frozen open, so  I'm not getting good pressure on the main at light up.  Patience, young Padawan.
This model does not have a "lighting lever" like the 425, to control the F/A tube.  It has a whole separate wheel for that. You open it the usual quarter turn (there's even a stop on the wheel to keep you going past 1/4 turn), then while that's open you open the generator wheel fully.  Once the generator is preheated you press a "safety lock" which is spring loaded, which allows you to open the F/A wheel the whole way. 
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
ecblanks
Just found my first hole. And it wasn't even in one of the rusted areas!  Guess this one gets the full treatment, although I may try to rig a different tank for general use. We'll see. This is a pretty unique design
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
ecblanks

This thing is really trying my patience and skills.  Here's the run down:
Burner and chassis  - I have still yet to budge any one of the screws holding the burner to the chassis, and yes the slot screws heads are starting to strip. I have hit them with PB Blaster and heat over many cycles.  Manual impact driver.  last night I even tried the wax method.  I felt like I may have seen some movement out of the main burners screw. Maybe.  Do I need to remove it?  I have plugged a 413 tank/generator and ran it and there are lot's of obstructions in the burners that need to be cleared out.  Plus the aux burner is frozen in the open position which isn't helping get pressure on the main, and I can't see any way to get to it with it assembled. PLus the whole thing needs to be stripped and painted.
Tank - I discovered one pin hole, but suspect/expect there will be more.  I soaked the tank for 2 nights in lye and that got the crud out of it and pulled most of the remaining paint off, but just to discover a good bit of rust inside.  Put a dollop of clear silicone over the pin hole so I can start an internal vinegar soak and bb dance. My goal is to get it repaired as best I can for display purposes and maybe run it once or twice, but I also plan to get another 413 tank for "regular" use, but I need to make sure i can get is securely mounted.  

Yes I'm well aware of the hazards of running a repaired tank and I will take all the precautions. That said if you are going to that it's on this model. The tank sits below the burner and the holes (as I've found so far) are on the bottom so any leak would be directly onto the ground.  Still a bad idea, I know.  

Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
Scouter_Angus
I have major stove envy at the moment... what a great project. I think Mike nailed it, it will try your patience, but be very rewarding. Have you tried MAP gas on the generator and the main burner to see if that will loosen the crud? Heating each part of the burner to red hot, tap with a hammer to loosen, shake out the debris, repeat X times? You might be able to get away without removing the burner that way. Still, it is crying for disassembly.

You might be faced with drill and tap...😬 
Angus

There is no armour made that can withstand the Truth. Karsa Orlong
ICCC # 1256
#001 in the Canadian Blues Syndicate (Syndicate Supreme Leader)
#058 in the Coleman Blues Syndicate
Looking for Canadian lanterns 8/30, 10/34, 4/67, 3/64, and any GPA for July 2004.

Quote
ecblanks
I don't have access to MAP. Heating to red hot is hard because the screw is so buried into the rest of the burner assembly, and with all the cast iron the heat is absorbed and distributed. 
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
zoomkat
I think what is currently sold as MAP gas is really not much hotter than standard propane. I use a screwdriver and vice grips like below on stubborn screws. Press down on the screwdriver with your body weight to keep the blade in the screw slot, and carefully apply torque using the vice grips.

torque3.jpg 
Quote
ecblanks
I got it as hot as I thought I could get it and gave it a few taps. No dice.  So I let it cool down and tried a few more whacks of the impact wrench and a few other things.  Eventually my impatience got the better of me and pulled out the impact driver.  That snapped the head of the main burner screw off, so now I've got that problem. I was not so "lucky" with the aux as all it did was strip the slot head almost flat.  The amount of dirt and rust that came out of the burner was astounding.  At least 3 tablespoons. So at least I got the obstruction out.  Should run like a champ now!  
Also got the grate almost all the way off.  3 of the 4 bolts came off with relative easy, and stripped the head on the 4th.  Not sure if "made progress" or not tonight.
IMG_20190731_201146.jpg 
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
Hot Diggity
Hi Carlton,

   You might try an electric engraver on the small broken screws.  After a good dose of penetrating oil the vibrations from the engraver act like a micro impact hammer and often I can just push the broken screw in the direction I want it to go and vibrate it right out.  Makes me a good deal of money and even more happy customers who save big on parts.
Chuck, 3/61, ICCC 1689
Milspec Syndicate #510
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0510
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #12
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #510
Coleman Slant Saver #510
Tinker, Toy maker, Trash picker, Wickie, Lamp loon


Quote
ecblanks
THanks for the tip, Chuck.  I'll see if I can locate one and give it a try. Certainly sounds less risky than using an extractor.  
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
Scouter_Angus
zoomkat wrote:
I think what is currently sold as MAP gas is really not much hotter than standard propane. I use a screwdriver and vice grips like below on stubborn screws. Press down on the screwdriver with your body weight to keep the blade in the screw slot, and carefully apply torque using the vice grips.

Well, the MAP I buy I have to be sure not to use on a brass generator coil. Propane is fine, but MAP will melt it into a blob, so it is considerably hotter than propane. The vice-grips on a standard screwdriver method is an oldie, but a goodie, and I've used it many times myself. However, Carlton is dealing with a seized screw, and the armstrong method won't do anything but strip the screw head, or break it off. 
Angus

There is no armour made that can withstand the Truth. Karsa Orlong
ICCC # 1256
#001 in the Canadian Blues Syndicate (Syndicate Supreme Leader)
#058 in the Coleman Blues Syndicate
Looking for Canadian lanterns 8/30, 10/34, 4/67, 3/64, and any GPA for July 2004.

Quote
ecblanks

However, Carlton is dealing with a seized screw, and the armstrong method won't do anything but strip the screw head, or break it off. 

Of which I have now done both 😃
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
ecblanks
I'm starting to stress this less. Even if, worse case, I have to drill them out and retap, the cast iron is pretty thick and should take it pretty easily.  But I'm still going to do all I can to keep that as a last resort.  Regardless, I'm in for finding some new screws.
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
Bill
Very interesting post.  David Jewell has on similar to this, and was working on it last August at the Ohio Gathering.  The burner bolt snapped off from his as well, and had to be drilled out and re-tapped.  The quarter-turn fuel valve arrangement appears identical to that on a Handy Gas Plant.  The instruction disk also appears identical.  Depending on how bad the rusting is in the tank, a heavy Caswell treatment might do the trick.
Bill Sheehy, aka Merlotrin P.M.      ICCC #1390      eBay handle: wtspe
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #24  /  Mil-Spec Ops, Bernz-o-Matic, and Sears Syndicates #58
Looking for birthday lanterns dated 4/33, 9/33 & 7/86

Quote
bowenstudios
I cant tell how big the screw that snapped is for sure, bit I'm guessing not real big but here is something I've done before on car parts. Start with a very small bit and try to get it as close to center as you can. Then drill out with progressively bigger ones until you start to see the treads on the other part, at this point you can usually use a pick or a something to bend what's left inward and then work what's left out. I've had this work when there wasnt room to tap the next size bigger, it's slow but can be done
-Mike
______________________________________

BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #651
Mil-SpecOps #0651
The Coleman Blue's 243's #154
Quote
Majicwrench
Any sort of extractor---EZ Out----is a bad idea. EZ out stands for Easy to break and impossible to get Out. Those are simple to drill and tap.

I would encourage you to fix the tank. I have a hot plate tank that had a couple holes,  I dug em out good and was surprised how sound and thick the metal was around the holes.  I soldered the holes, pressure checked it in a bucket, then POR 15 on the inside and a patch on the outside. I have great faith in it.

Looking forward to more progress
Keith
Quote
ecblanks
Thanks, Keith.  The tank is progressing.  It's sat for a round of lye bath, and a vinegar bath and bb dance. The inside is still not as clean as I'd like it to be yet for the POR 15.  At this time I only still see the one hole but a good amount of rust came out with the bb dance, so I'm expecting more . 
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
Majicwrench
POR 15 is very happy over rust. Follow directions on can. 

I've used it in several lanterns/stoves just to control all the little flaky particles.

You can very effectively do the electrolysis thing inside a tank too, just use a long nail or similar down the fill. 
Keith
Quote
ecblanks
I do have some leftover POR 15 from a previous project. Should be more than a plenty.  Yes I am familiar with internal  electrolysis but never executed it. I may give it a try.  Right now the founts ability to hold liquid because of the one hole is problematic, but I'm working past that using silicone caulk.  The first patch sprung a leak during the vinegar bath, but my second application held much better.
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
warren
Great work on a nice stove.   Are you missing the check stem for putting in air?  If so I probably have one here somewhere.  Might just be out during the pictures.

ANTIQUESWV on Ebay
#1 in the 223B club
Gatlinburg, TN

Quote
ecblanks
Thanks Warren, it is actually missing that part.  I've been borrowing one off my 129 lamp. 
Didn't make much progress this weekend except I got the last bolt off the top grate via "easy out", then I broke off same said easy out on the screw remnant on the main burner. Looks like I'll definitely be driling and retapping that side.  At this point I'm assuming I'll be doing the same on the aux as well . 
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
ecblanks
After clearing out the rust and dirt from the manifold, and I got the aux burner control finally turning (it is actually brass), I thought I'd give it another lightup and assessment.  I plugged in my 413G tank and it lit up reasonably well, the main is now burning strong (flame spreader just laid in there), but the aux is still not closing off though I can now open it all the way, and there is still some obstruction.  So I guess I'm still going to have to get that aux spreader off but it is frozen tight and the head of that screw is stripped clean.  I'll be drilling this one out.  
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
Scouter_Angus
Carlton, we need more pictures, man! Stop teasing!
Angus

There is no armour made that can withstand the Truth. Karsa Orlong
ICCC # 1256
#001 in the Canadian Blues Syndicate (Syndicate Supreme Leader)
#058 in the Coleman Blues Syndicate
Looking for Canadian lanterns 8/30, 10/34, 4/67, 3/64, and any GPA for July 2004.

Quote
ecblanks
I'll get some pics but I may have just royally screwed up. Just finished vinegar treatment and bb dance #2 on the tank and then i put it on the grill to dry. Well I let the temp get too hot and it flowed the solder on the joints and bungs (now I know what was holding it together) . For a second I thought I at least got luck enough that maybe some dropped down into my pinhole but no joy. So I went ahead an soft soldered the pinhole and in a little bit I'll pressure test it and see how bad I screwed the pooch.  Ugh, too depressed to take pictures.
Starting to think that maybe the wrong hombre is working on this project.
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
ecblanks
You asked for pics.  Here's pics, and my current problems:
1. pin hole in tank.  As of right now it's the only one.  I tried last night to just use lead solder it but it didn't hold very long.  I'm very nervous about trying to braze it so close to the joint (the gold stuff is flux). Any help is appreciated:
IMG_20190806_213035.jpg      
2. Broken screw on the main burner. Actually that's not just screw broken out in there, there is also a broken extractor.
IMG_20190806_213057.jpg 
3. Stripped head on aux burner . This one will have to get drilled as well, andI think at this point the best I can hope for is breaking the head off like on the main.
IMG_20190806_213112.jpg 
4. One of few successes was getting the burner grate off with only one damages bolt.  I was pretty happy about that.  My only other success was cleaning the "plumbing" and putting a new cap gasket on the fill cap.
IMG_20190806_213122.jpg 
You can see the stains from all the PB Blaster, candle wax and heat I've applied to these guys.  THen once I'm done up top i have to actually get the burner assembly off the chassis, which is another 2 screws buried in rusted cast iron.  Yay.
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
ecblanks
Progress yesterday, and fresh challenges.  For one I got the aux burner off.  I was resigned to the fact that this screw was never coming out in one piece.  I also wanted to avoid the failure i had on the main burner where I broke off the extractor in the remnant stud. So my plan was to just get the spreader off and then drill out the rest.  To do this just drill a hole deep enough to get and extractor in and weaken he top half of the screw off to ensure breakage.  Mission accomplished.
IMG_20190807_182240.jpg 
You can see here exactly how frozen this screw was.  That's the head of the screw still bonded to the spreader.  That'll be fun to get out.    
Which left me with this:
IMG_20190807_182230_2.jpg 
Lots of cleanup required here, and of course a drill and tap (and find new screws).  Hopefully get a more flush fit of the gas shutoff.  But to do that I need to remove the burner assembly from the chassis.  Here is what I'm faced with, and it's a little more unique.  
So there's a screw head underneath:
IMG_20190807_182520.jpg 
But this doesn't go straight into the burner.  There is an about half inch gap between the base of the burners and the plate that the screw head goes into.  Some sort of vent/baffle.  In there is what appears to be a brass spacer (guess; no rust). 
IMG_20190807_182546.jpg 
And then where the screw actually enters the burner up in here:
IMG_20190807_182554.jpg 
Which again is steel into cast iron.  So I've got this long spacer which is that much more area I have to get heat to , and penetrating oil, both indirectly. Yay.  I'm hoping that gravity will be my friend as opposed to the spreaders where moisture settled downward.  I've lubed it in the past and hit various areas with heat, and tried screwdrivers and manual impact wrech, to no avail.  Up to this point I have resisted the urge to use my impact driver but not sure how much longer I'll be able to hold out.  

The tank is another matter. Tried hitting it with silver solder to close up the hole and I thought I successfully got the silver flowed into the hole and had a good bond, but air is still escaping from the area somewhere/somehow.  

It's a war of two theaters.  

Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
ecblanks
Success!
IMG_20190809_090410.jpg 
One to go.

Also found the source of the escaping air around my pinhole... more pinholes (as expected).  I'm going to need to find a professional welder and put a patch on it.
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
Scouter_Angus
Time for a vat of Evaporust...
Angus

There is no armour made that can withstand the Truth. Karsa Orlong
ICCC # 1256
#001 in the Canadian Blues Syndicate (Syndicate Supreme Leader)
#058 in the Coleman Blues Syndicate
Looking for Canadian lanterns 8/30, 10/34, 4/67, 3/64, and any GPA for July 2004.

Quote
ecblanks
I don't use evaporust.  The burner assembly will get a gentle round of electrolysis and the chassis will likely just get sand blasted.  
The 2nd screw has not been as forgiving as the other one. In fact I've pretty much stripped the head on it now.  My options are A) Drill it and go after it with an extractor or B) just cut the head off, pull the burner , and then deal with the remnant stud.  I should be able to get better heat on it and better oil penetration with the burner off.  
If I use the extractor I risk breaking the screw of where it joins the burner and then my only option is drilling and tapping.
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
Scouter_Angus
I'd be inclined to go straight to drilling and tapping. So far, those screws have been beyond seized, the threads seem to have fused together. Save money on another broken extractor, and go straight to the end-game.

Just my two cents. I wonder why they didn't use brass screws on those burners, like they did on other stoves. Never meant for them to be taken apart, I guess.
Angus

There is no armour made that can withstand the Truth. Karsa Orlong
ICCC # 1256
#001 in the Canadian Blues Syndicate (Syndicate Supreme Leader)
#058 in the Coleman Blues Syndicate
Looking for Canadian lanterns 8/30, 10/34, 4/67, 3/64, and any GPA for July 2004.

Quote
ecblanks
I couldn't find a tool that I could get into the area and cleanly cut the head off the screw, so I decided to have another go at turning it and let the chips falls where they may.  I got my dremel in there and cut a new slot.  This gave my impact drive enough grab to finally get it turning, and I thought it was backing out, but it broke off too.
IMG_20190810_145114.jpg 
IMG_20190810_145116.jpg 
Oh well, so be it.  Par for the course.  
That leaves me with one final disassembly challenge before I can start cleaning the metal.  The aux stopper needs to come off.  It's attached via 7/8 hex nut and boy is it in there tight.  It is brass, so the different metals really need to separate before I drop this into e-tank or vinegar, etc.  
So, back to rounds of heat and penetrating oil. This is one  I simply can't just break off.
IMG_20190810_145120.jpg 
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
holliswood
Invest in some drilling lubricant like rapid-tap if you haven’t already. It’ll extend the life of your drill bits and keep what your drilling into a tad cooler. It worked wonders drilling through inch thick steel. 
-Fred

ICCC Member #1871  -  MilSpec-Ops #1278  -  Coleman Quick Lite Crew #41
Perfection Heater Collectors #2   CANADIAN BLUES SYNDICATE #57  Coleman Slant Saver #65

snipesfred on Insta
Quote
ecblanks
Thanks, Fred, will do. I've got a lot of drilling in my near future. I've still got a loooonng way to go on this guy.  My tank is riddled with pinholes in one location that needs to be cut and welded.  I'm also looking for an old, round 413 tank to serve as a stand-in for running, but I'll need to cut the tabs off (thus why i posted looking for one in B/S/T).
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
holliswood
Praying for you and go slow. After drilling bolts out of motors those bits can leave a nasty wound. 
-Fred

ICCC Member #1871  -  MilSpec-Ops #1278  -  Coleman Quick Lite Crew #41
Perfection Heater Collectors #2   CANADIAN BLUES SYNDICATE #57  Coleman Slant Saver #65

snipesfred on Insta
Quote
zoomkat
You might try heating that part up with a torch to thermally shock it and maybe break some of the bond.
Quote
ecblanks
zoomkat wrote:
You might try heating that part up with a torch to thermally shock it and maybe break some of the bond.

yeah I've already torched it 3 times.  I've been reading that I shouldn't torch and quench as the cast iron doesn't like it. At least with being a hex head i can get a good solid grip on it.  
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
Scouter_Angus
I'm thinking your new bolts will be stainless steel...
Angus

There is no armour made that can withstand the Truth. Karsa Orlong
ICCC # 1256
#001 in the Canadian Blues Syndicate (Syndicate Supreme Leader)
#058 in the Coleman Blues Syndicate
Looking for Canadian lanterns 8/30, 10/34, 4/67, 3/64, and any GPA for July 2004.

Quote
ecblanks
I'm thinking your new bolts will be stainless steel...

99.99% probability (actually a "probability" would be represented as .9999)
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
ecblanks
Quick update on this, and some major updates hopefully later today.
I ended up having to send the burner to a machine shop and tap out 3 of the 4 screw holes, 2 of which had extractors broken off in them.  Found some SS bolts at home perfect for the burner , and a trip to Ace found me some SS screws for the spreaders.   So the burner assembly is now ready to go .
As for the tank, I've given up on the original.  Just too rotten. Fortunately another member (Billdog37) had a spare tank from a Model 16 heater which is the same, and should arrive today.  I am now north of $100 on this whole project, but it's been "fun".
I'll give it a full test burn tonight, then back to disassembly for prep and paint.  Pics to come! 
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
holliswood
Carlton, did the machine shop make quick work of it? Sometimes I back up and punt as well. 
-Fred

ICCC Member #1871  -  MilSpec-Ops #1278  -  Coleman Quick Lite Crew #41
Perfection Heater Collectors #2   CANADIAN BLUES SYNDICATE #57  Coleman Slant Saver #65

snipesfred on Insta
Quote
ecblanks
Quick? I don't know.  I think he forgot about me cause when i called about 3 weeks later he said it was done.  I would have drilled and tapped it myself but the broken extractors scared me off.  I thought he was going to burn them out but he said he drilled them. 
Got it lit and running, but it took some effort.  It really didn't like to run with the generator valve all the way open, only partially.  Not sure what was up with that.  So I took it back apart and went through the valve assembly and didn't find anything obviously off. The generator spring (steel, rusted) is still seized in the tube (brass so I'm thinking that must be it.  Took the generator off and still can't get the spring out.  Put it back together to work on another day and I stripped the threads on the tube where the tip attaches.  Fortunately I have a steel standby from the heater valve. That's tonight.   At least the aux is completely closing now, so that was helpful. 
IMG_20190923_194120.jpg 

A few interesting differences between the Model 16 tank and valve, and the 373 tank and valve:
1. Tank is steel on the 373, some alloy on the 16 (Everdur, maybe even brass).
2. Brass gen tube on the 373, steel on the 16.
3. Extra "coupler" between the gen and valve on the 373, not on the 16 (so I couldn't do a straight swap). 
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
ecblanks
Well the light at the end of the tunnel ended up being a kid with a flashlight looking for mushrooms. 
I was not pleased with my light up performance so I took the generator apart for more cleaning.  When putting it back together I guess there was a burr in the tip and it completely stripped the threads on the brass tube.  Then I went to the back up, which is a steel tubed generator off the Model 16 valve, but it also was heavily gummed.  So I cleaned it up and wouldn't you know it but the tip on that one is also burred and starting to round the threads.  I need to run thread restorer on both sides; anybody know the pitch and size? Looks roughly the same size as a 413.
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote
ecblanks
Update: got the generator fixed.  Found a cheap chinese tap on eBay that did the trick on the threads.  Lost a fair bit of metal but it was enough. Now I am fully functional. I still have a small leak around where the generator tube enters the valve but that should be an easy fix.  Now it's time to strip and paint and this baby is done!
Boy this thing is a bear to light.  It takes 2 cycles of pumping and lighting before it takes . I think it just expends all the air in the first attempt without having pulled any fuel. 
IMG_20191020_165958.jpg 
Carlton
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
Mil-Spec Ops #0973
ICCC Member #1892
Quote


...
...
Welcome to the Coleman Collectors Forum, an international forum of Coleman enthusiast and collectors, as such people from all over the world come here to read about Coleman collecting, repair, and to meet and make friends. The pages contained here are intended for the use of amateur collectors and people interested in Coleman collecting, restoration and repair as a hobby. It goes without saying to refrain from political posts, personal attacks and inflammatory posts.

Please note, all postings are the personal opinions of the members posting, the owner, administrators and moderators of the forum do not warrant the accuracy of posted information or endorse the safety of such.