200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.
Quick Cal
This is the first time I've worked on a lantern so be easy with me. Type real slow so I can understand,,,lol. Normally I'm pretty good at this kind of stuff. I restore old motorcycles. But on this thing everything I touch turns to crap.

I have some questionable lines in the fount that I'm concerned about as posted in my other thread. But I polished it with mothers and now they don't seem near as deep so I think it's just scratches. But I still want to pressure test the fount to be sure.

So I guess first I need to rebuild the pump.

With the pump rod removed from the tube, when I screw the rod all the way closed there are no threads showing on the end. But if I install the rod into the tube it will not screw in that far. I can get only 1-1/4 turn thread engagement with lots of threads showing. Is that normal or do I have a stuck check valve.

 photo 20190505_2229511_zpsrhho9qex.jpg

 photo 20190505_2228551_zpsxzupgyyp.jpg


The leather is deteriorating. Would it be the same as off of one of these 220's, or even 275 that I have. Or is AGM different. But it seems to be pumping air. Not a good angle but is just under the threads where the pick is pointing the only place air is supposed to come out of. Looks like a little flat tube running from the bottom going up. I can see there's a hex screw at the end of the pump. I scared to death to try and remove it with the ways things are going. Or is that where my potential problem could be and I need to take it out.

 photo 20190505_2229121_zpsmwz3cvnt.jpg

Can you guys tell me what size and type o-ring goes under the big wing nut that secures the pump to the fount. Is that something I can just get at the hardware store.

I'm going to break this up into different section so it's easier to read a little at a time and reply with answers. I hope,,,lol.
Quote
Quick Cal
Next issue.

I can not get the e-block out. Which end of the generator does it come out of. I would GUESS the flared end. But there's something jammed up in there. I've been poking at it with a thin wire but I just keep packing it tighter. Now I can't even blow air through. Could that be some kind of filter I guess. Or just trash.

 photo 20190505_2236181_zps6p086d2y.jpg
Quote
dwillie
Any O-ring as long as its gas safe. The cup will need re-oiled. On the bottom of your pump is a brass bolt that has a small BB AUNDER IT. THAT NEEDS CLEANED WELL.
Darien.
“All of us are creatures of a day; the rememberer and the remembered alike.”    

Coleman Blues #67.   ICCC #1242.   Searching for 5-1940. 6-36.
Quote
Guff
I have an AGM 278, however it has the earlier pump type where the NRV is exposed to the fuel in the fount on the end of the pump tube. Yours is the later type which has the NRV enclosed with a small air tube attached to the outside of the pump tube that reaches above the fuel full level in the fount.

I can answer some of your questions though.
Refer to my picture below showing my pump tube and pump shaft which is slightly different to yours, but works the same way.
Look on the end of the pump shaft and you will see a cone shaped pointed end, now look down your pump tube and you will see a circular stop with a small hole in the center of it. The pointed end of the pump shaft is a friction fit into that hole when the pump shaft is inserted into the tube and the pump knob is screwed clockwise  until you feel it meet resistance. When it meets resistance there will be still some threads shown like in your pic #2. It does not screw all the way down. That means the pointed end of the pump shaft is firmly seated in the hole in the pump tube seat. So don't screw it in any more or you may damage the seat or the pointed end of the shaft. It only needs to be a firm fit, not over tight. That friction fit provides a positive shut off so that if the NRV located below it is leaking, it will not allow raw fuel from the fount into the pump tube. Your pump has the added safety of having the NRV being enclosed.
I would assume that the NRV on your pump tube is accessed by unscrewing that hex screw on the end of your pump tube, but someone here may be able to confirm that, as my pump type is different to yours, with no enclosure.
When you pump air into your fount you need to firstly unscrew the pump knob to release the pointed end of the pump shaft from the hole in the seat, so the air can pass into the fount. In your case the air should exit into the fount via that small air tube attached to the outside of the pump tube, same as the Colemans do.

The inside diameter of my pump tube is 11/16" diameter, so a 220 Coleman pump leather will be too large for it.
You can certainly use an O ring as a washer to seal the pump tube to the fount bung connection. It will need to fit in the recess in the pump collar and have an internal diameter of 1". Just make sure that it is a fuel resistant rubber O ring.
Here is a pic of my pump AGM 278 pump.

Keith.
P5062837 (2).jpg 
 
Quote
Gand28
Most would not take that generator apart.  Yes, probably a screen and packing in the bottom. I soak them in acetone, remove the tip and shoot some carb cleaner through them. You can throw it in some citric to clean up the outside of the shell. 

That is a fairly uncommon AGM roto generator. Careful with it!
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
Quote
Quick Cal
Thanks so far guys.
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Quick Cal
As far as the gen goes. Did I trash it. There was no screen in there just the packing that I now have packed so tight it won't pass air.

Can I get replacement gut or will I need a new gen.
Quote
SteveRetherford
a coleman R55 genny has the same threads and will fit there .
[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
Quote
Quick Cal
Before I go too far I need to figure out if this is worth the effort with all the parts it may need. The po really butchered this thing up. It had what I believe is Indian Head gasket sealer all over this thing. He even cross threaded the burner caps and had goop all over those threads. After cleaning the burner I blew air through the air tube and had bubbles coming out of the threads. I guess I'll need new caps and hope I can straighten out the threads. Or might even need new tubes as well.

 photo 20190503_2206051_zpsm6jjbupl.jpg


 photo 20190506_1015211_zps8guvxtqq.jpg


Right off the bat I broke the valve removing it. If I can find a replacement what could I expect to pay for that. Will one off of another model work. This has 1/8'' pipe threads. And I will need a new pick up tube as well. I barely nicked it drill out the broken off piece out of the fount.

 photo 20190505_2239281_zpskfhbxlrf.jpg

Is it worth continuing,,,,lol.
Quote
Gand28
Yeah, I think you pooched it. As Steve said, the Coleman R55 is a direct fit. I found my one and only AGM roto gen on an old Quicklite. Saved it until the day came I got an AGM USFS. Was the correct piece to complete the restoration. I’ve seen a few around in the box, but not many!

You are making great progress.  Good advice from those who have a 278. The couple I have found were shot and I parted them out. 
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
Quote
Quick Cal
Gand28 wrote:
Yeah, I think you pooched it. As Steve said, the Coleman R55 is a direct fit. I found my one and only AGM roto gen on an old Quicklite. Saved it until the day came I got an AGM USFS. Was the correct piece to complete the restoration. I’ve seen a few around in the box, but not many!

You are making great progress.  Good advice from those who have a 278. The couple I have found were shot and I parted them out. 


We were typing at the same time. My post hit a couple of seconds before yours. Please read just above you.

In short. Got any parts left,,,,lol.
Quote
Gand28
Quick Cal wrote:


In short. Got any parts left,,,,lol.


Maybe a frame, but that’s it. Everything else went to members here or eBay. 

Maybe put it aside for a while. Sometimes parts pop up later to complete an unfinished project. Patient is a virtue!
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
Quote
Quick Cal
Gand28 wrote:


Maybe a frame, but that’s it. Everything else went to members here or eBay. 

Maybe put it aside for a while. Sometimes parts pop up later to complete an unfinished project. Patient is a virtue!


Put it aside. WHAT!!. The power might go out and I will die if I don't get this going,,,,lol. Ya, it's on the back burner,,,lol.
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Quick Cal
So I got the new o-ring installed. But the leather is so far gone now it won't pump up. I even put a lot of oil in it. It tries. But just won't do it. And the spring is broke too. Does that effect anything.

 photo 20190506_1925181_zps82gjolaz.jpg


I did get the check valve took apart. The bee bee was stuck. Is there supposed to be a spring in there.

 photo 20190506_1934191_zps7jqmdnfz.jpg

I did see the gauge twitch once,,,lol.

 photo 20190506_1940201_zpskh9n09tk.jpg
Quote
mnhogrider
Look on OCP. Mike has smaller pump cups for a 427 or 445 that might work.
You’ll find the pump cup and it looks like you got the gasket snot off of the fount so you’re making progress. 
Finding that broken valve will be a challenge...
Put a WTB in the classifieds. You might get lucky.
Steve
ICCC Member #1396 
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #017
Mack, Cat and Cadillac.
Quote
RonMack
Cal,

I might have a valve for you. I'm waiting on a lantern that's being shipped to me. Depending on what I get, I may have an extra AGM valve. I'll let you know. 
Ron    ICCC # 1770

Forget the map and the GPS. "I know where we are!!!!

Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0174 BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #020 MilSpecOps #0032 
Coleman Slant Saver #45
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Quick Cal
So is there supposed to be a spring in the check valve. Or what's it called. DNR valve?
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Quick Cal
Success and failure at the same time,,,,lol.

I tried the pump again and it was building pressure a tiny bit at a time. After about 100 pumps it was holding 20psi.
 photo 20190506_2016391_zpsplvfmrkl.jpg

dSo I did a dunk test. It's leaking around where I have the air gauge screwed into the fount. But I think I can see that the square angled fitting I used is touching the top of the bung so it may not be tightened all the way. Or I can also see what looks like a little blob of solder. I hope that is from the factory and is not the source of my leak. But the butcher did have Indian Head sealer around this as well.  I need to use a straight fitting for my gauge and hope that takes care of the leak.
 photo 20190506_2023531_zpszdkvgxbv.jpg
Quote
Quick Cal
RonMack wrote:
Cal,

I might have a valve for you. I'm waiting on a lantern that's being shipped to me. Depending on what I get, I may have an extra AGM valve. I'll let you know. 


Thanks Ron. That would be great. I could use the pick up tube too if you have an extra. LMK. Thanks
Quote
Quick Cal
Oh ya. What would be the max pressure to test this thing at.

Think I'll put a schrader valve in it and use my compressor and put about 100psi in there,,,lol. If it don't blow then,,,, should be good,,,lol.
Quote
zoomkat
"Think I'll put a schrader valve in it and use my compressor and put about 100psi in there,,,lol. If it don't blow then,,,, should be good,,,lol."
 
    Be sure you fill it as full of water as possible before pressurizing. If it lets go, you don't want to go with it.
    Quote
    Quick Cal
    zoomkat wrote:
    "Think I'll put a schrader valve in it and use my compressor and put about 100psi in there,,,lol. If it don't blow then,,,, should be good,,,lol."
     
    Be sure you fill it as full of water as possible before pressurizing. If it lets go, you don't want to go with it.


    You know I was joking. Right,,,lol.

    Question is are you joking about putting water in it first. Cause I all ready have 20psi just air in there.
    Quote
    Guff
    Yes your pump leather certainly needs replacing. I just measured the internal diameter of my built on pump tube on my L427 and it is about 11/16" the same as your 278 tube should be. So check if OCP has those pump cups.

    My 278 pump type has a non return valve with a spring, brass cup and nitrile pip. However, since your 278 pump has the external air tube and a steel ball inside the control valve, it probably would not have a spring in that type of valve.

    The large spring on your pump shaft is of no importance. Simply replace it with one from a hardware store about the same diameter and trim it to a similar length as your broken one. The length is not critical.

    Your AGM 278 burner type was used on quite a few other AGM models, so it should not be too difficult to find a replacement for yours. Try the classifieds.
    You may be able to run a tap and die over the existing threads of the burner housing and your burner caps, if they are not too severely damaged. I don't know off hand what those thread sizes are though. Use a smear of muffler cement on the threads when screwing the caps back in the housing.

    Just for your future ventures, this type of lantern is similar to the 327 and 427 quicklite models. It does not have a fuel/air type of arrangement on the fuel tube which provides an instant lighting feature. The fuel tube is simply a straight tube soldered to the end of the valve. These types rarely gets blocked up, so there is no need to remove that type of valve from the fount. Blockages can usually be cleared by back flushing through the valve with a solvent.
    Only remove the valve if it is absolutely necessary, as you run the risk of breaking the valve or spinning the valve bung in the fount.

    Keith.   
    Quote
    Quick Cal
    mnhogrider wrote:
    Look on OCP. Mike has smaller pump cups for a 427 or 445 that might work.
    .


    the 427 leather is too big. So I'll have to try the 445.

     photo 20190506_2308561_zpsnihr1kvr.jpg
    Quote
    Dmacp
    When restoring a 278 it is not unusual to start with several cores. (old lanterns). Your pump looks pretty rough, having two might solve a few problems.
    There are several pump configurations. One looked very similar to a Coleman 427 pump. Mine has several threads visible on the pump when it is closed. You can make the correct pump leather from a slightly larger one by wetting it and wiring to a wood dowel that is the same diameter as the pump tube, and letting it dry. Likewise with the cap gasket-cut one out of a Buna-N (Nitrile) or Viton sheet. You can get them many places, McMaster-Carr is one. There was a generator made by AGM that is identical to the Q-99. It was called "American Ready-Lite generator" and I see them from time to time. As Steve says, the R-55 works great. So would a Q-99.
    If you have got a sound fount, that is 90% of the battle. I'd urge you to stick it with it and see it through. They are beautiful when together.
    Dan
    ICCC member #604
    Quote
    Guff
    I think you may be comparing the built in 427 pump cup with your AGM 278 pump cup, not the built on 427 pump cup. There is a big difference between those 427 cups.
    Below is a size comparison of the built on 427 pump cup on the left with my AGM 278 pump cup on the right. They look pretty much the same size to me, or maybe your 278 pump cup is a lot smaller than the one on my 278, which I don't think would be the case. 

    Keith

    P5072844 (2).jpg  P5072847 (2).jpg
    Quote
    Quick Cal
    Guff wrote:
    I think you may be comparing the built in 427 pump cup with your AGM 278 pump cup, not the built on 427 pump cup. There is a big difference between those 427 cups.


    You Sir, are correct. Being a newbie I did not know the difference,,,,lol. But I'm talking about this one I posted about.
    http://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/post/please-id-coleman-lamp-amp-stove-lantern-10125744?pid=1308481873

    To be clear, is this the correct one.
    http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/product.php?productid=715&cat=&page=1

    Would it be the same as the 445. Maybe I should just order both to be sure,,,lol.
    http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/product.php?productid=4397&cat=&page=1
    Quote
    Guff
    Yes, the Coleman 427 lantern you posted and took the pump from for your comparison is a late one with an in built pump. That's not the pump cup you want.
    I would get the 445 pump cup from OCP as it states it is 11/16" diameter, which is the same as I measured as the inside diameter of my AGM 278 pump tube. The OCP 427 pump cup says it is the smaller 427 pump cup, but does not list the actual diameter.

    Keith. 
    Quote
    dwillie
    There is no spring with that style NRV. They are the worst set up I have run across for a pump. I rolled the BB over some fine grit paper to try to get it to seal well. I got it so it would burn finally. Another never did. I swap the pump from the lantern to the lamp. lol. I can see why AGM only used this pump a short time.
    Darien.
    “All of us are creatures of a day; the rememberer and the remembered alike.”    

    Coleman Blues #67.   ICCC #1242.   Searching for 5-1940. 6-36.
    Quote
    Quick Cal
    Is there a parts manual for this out there anywhere?
    Quote
    Dmacp
    I've never seen one but there is an AGM contingent here, maybe someone does.
    Dan
    ICCC member #604
    Quote
    Quick Cal
    It looks like I need valve stem packing too. I can't tell if this was all one piece or not. There was some packing hanging out. and is that a smaller washer of some kind. Looks like the po was digging at it.

     photo 20190507_1346291_zpskvk5go3k.jpg



    I do have the 3/16'' shaft. Would this be the right packing from ocp.
    http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/product.php?productid=86&cat=&page=1
    Quote
    Quick Cal
    Can you guys tell me what date this thing is?
    Quote
    Lanterndude
    The following info is courtesy from Terry Marsh website........

    https://terry-marsh.com/american-gas-machine-co-lanterns-early-models/ )

    Keep at it with the restoration process. It may take awhile over time but if persistent, you'll eventually get it complete.
    Hopefully someone will chime in on a parts listing or perhaps with more knowledge on the AGM 278 build, parts, etc.
     

    agm277runningmarsh.jpg  agm278runningmarsh.jpg 
    Models 277 (left) & 278 (right) only differ from Models 267 & 268 above
    in having built-on pumps.
    These two lanterns came with straight AGM L35 generators,
    comparable to the Coleman Q77, and require preheating with a match.
    The globes are AGM with brass frames and large head fasteners as above.
    I have an ad from a 1926 magazine that pictures Model 278.

    "TURD" #0132
    "MILSPEC" #0024

    Quote
    Quick Cal
    Lanterndude wrote:
    The following info is courtesy from Terry Marsh website........

    https://terry-marsh.com/american-gas-machine-co-lanterns-early-models/ )

    Keep at it with the restoration process. It may take awhile over time but if persistent, you'll eventually get it complete.
    Hopefully someone will chime in on a parts listing or perhaps with more knowledge on the AGM 278 build, parts, etc.
     

    agm277runningmarsh.jpg  agm278runningmarsh.jpg 
    Models 277 (left) & 278 (right) only differ from Models 267 & 268 above
    in having built-on pumps.
    These two lanterns came with straight AGM L35 generators,
    comparable to the Coleman Q77, and require preheating with a match.
    The globes are AGM with brass frames and large head fasteners as above.
    I have an ad from a 1926 magazine that pictures Model 278.


    Thank You!!
    Quote
    Quick Cal
    Hey I fixed the valve. Just kidding. I did manage to get a few threads on it. I just wanted to be able to put it back together some what so I could at least sit it on a shelf,,,lol.


     photo 20190508_1015071_zpsv6gc2fah.jpg

     photo 20190508_1026031_zpsrdl7uwp5.jpg
    Quote
    Quick Cal
    I can't get the threads to seal up with teflon tape. Could I dare use this thread seal. Even if temporary. Or would I play hell trying to clean it off.

     photo 20190508_1133201_zpscsuz7lxw.jpg

     photo 20190508_1133331_zps7w7pezh0.jpg


    I have a solder spot that I think maybe leaking and need to plug this up and make sure the threads are sealed so I can tell where the leak is coming from.

     photo 20190508_1133041_zpsljre1fll.jpg
    Quote
    Lanterndude
    http://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/post/thread-sealers-10127335

    "TURD" #0132
    "MILSPEC" #0024

    Quote
    Dmacp
    is this the first lantern you've restored? Just curious. Yes I see you said it was.  My advice:  Don't take anything apart unless it absolutely HAS to come apart. It you crank enough pipe threaded fittings into the fount the taper on the original valve will not seal. Pipe threads exert a pretty fair amount of outward force and will enlarge the threads in the bung. The packing you pulled out is graphite string and it is replaceable.
    The last thing you want to do with a pump check ball is sand it. That will render it useless. When cleaned and shiny they do a good job of sealing. Those are found on the "built on" 427 pumps and the work very well.
    Sorry I'm not trying to be overly critical, a beginner has to start someplace. You should reverse the order in which you are doing things. These guys are pros and will help you out but asking before you take something apart rather than after will save you a lot of grief. An AGM can be challenging to rebuild compared to a Coleman. You don't try and crank the valve out of the fount like a Coleman. They usually shear. You clean the threads with a wire brush (brass) so penetrating oil can work it's way in. it works, but slowly. You can't be in a hurry. Again sorry for the criticism, I do have a shelf full of these and they can be bastards. But rewarding if you follow through.
    Dan
    ICCC member #604
    Quote
    Quick Cal
    Dmacp wrote:
    is this the first lantern you've restored? Just curious. Yes I see you said it was.  My advice:  Don't take anything apart unless it absolutely HAS to come apart. It you crank enough pipe threaded fittings into the fount the taper on the original valve will not seal. Pipe threads exert a pretty fair amount of outward force and will enlarge the threads in the bung.

    Are you saying now the fount is junk too because I screwed too many pipe fittings in it? Will it seal with the proper sealant.

    It turns out that the solder spot is leaking. The po had sealer smeared over that spot too. Now I know why. Can this be re-soldered. I've read about you guys doing it to colemans. But I'm asking first,,,lol.

    I feel that if I get the solder leak fixed I still need to pressure test the threads before wasting any money on a new valve and other parts. How do you suggest I proceed from here.



    The packing you pulled out is graphite string and it is replaceable.
    The last thing you want to do with a pump check ball is sand it. That will render it useless. When cleaned and shiny they do a good job of sealing. Those are found on the "built on" 427 pumps and the work very well.

    I did not sand the ball. That was the other guy,,,,lol. But I did roll it around on a paper towel with brake cleaner on it. It is still dirty and I think I felt a rough spot on it. But I wasn't focused on that part at the time. I knew I had to clean it better. I will try polishing it with my Miracle Cloth and get a better look at it.


    Sorry I'm not trying to be overly critical, a beginner has to start someplace.

    You've really hurt my feelings. I'm going to take my ball and go home. Na. Gonna take more than that to run me off,,,,lol. Seriously though. I do appreciated the advise.

    You should reverse the order in which you are doing things. These guys are pros and will help you out but asking before you take something apart rather than after will save you a lot of grief. An AGM can be challenging to rebuild compared to a Coleman. You don't try and crank the valve out of the fount like a Coleman. They usually shear. You clean the threads with a wire brush (brass) so penetrating oil can work it's way in. it works, but slowly.

    That's exactly what I did. Clean the top of the bung off with a wire brush so the pb blaster could soak in. I let it soak over night. Guess that wasn't long enough,,,lol.

    You can't be in a hurry. Again sorry for the criticism, I do have a shelf full of these and they can be bastards. But rewarding if you follow through.
    Quote
    mnhogrider
    Polish the check ball with some Mother’s and call it good. Get a 1/8 pipe plug, put a couple of wraps of Teflon tape on the threads and install into the bung fitting. Not too tight. Pressurize the fount using the pump you just rebuilt and spray some soapy water on the bung. If it’s leaking at the solder seam then clean the area real good, fill the fount about half full of water, then heat the solder with a propane torch. Dab some flux on. You may just need to get it hot enough so the solder re-flows and seals up the pin hole. Otherwise add a bit more if you think you need to.
    Steve
    ICCC Member #1396 
    BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #017
    Mack, Cat and Cadillac.
    Quote
    Quick Cal
    mnhogrider wrote:
    Polish the check ball with some Mother’s and call it good. Get a 1/8 pipe plug, put a couple of wraps of Teflon tape on the threads and install into the bung fitting. Not too tight. Pressurize the fount using the pump you just rebuilt and spray some soapy water on the bung. If it’s leaking at the solder seam then clean the area real good, fill the fount about half full of water, then heat the solder with a propane torch. Dab some flux on. You may just need to get it hot enough so the solder re-flows and seals up the pin hole. Otherwise add a bit more if you think you need to.


    I've had 2 different fitting's on my air gauge screwed in there using teflon tape. They both leaked.

    So yesterday I got a pipe plug. I thought maybe somehow the teflon tape just wasn't getting into the threads deep enough, which it should but I had to try something different.  So knowing it's not the right kind of sealer for fuel, I used the tfe sealer pictured above which I think should have worked for this little bit of air pressure I'm using. It also leaked. I could see the air bubbles blowing right threw it.

    So I think I need a hard setting sealer. Right? At least for the finally assembly. But for testing after soldering should I use a hard setting or semi-hard. I need to take it back apart.

    When doing the soldering can I use just a plumbing type flux and solder. Or I have some small electronics type stuff too. What do you guys recommend.


    Quote
    Dmacp
    Quote:
    You've really hurt my feelings. I'm going to take my ball and go home. Na. Gonna take more than that to run me off,,,,lol. Seriously though. I do appreciated the advise.


    Definitely look at Michael's 3708 in the restoration section. You have a crack free fount. Like I said that's a big success right there. I did a 278 and had about 3 lanterns, and one crack free fount. You are positioned very well to restore one. You just need some more parts. If I had them I'd give them to you, but I've already given them away to other members. A nicer pump would help you a lot. I don't see a frame rest (collar) but those are steel. That is the plus in getting a second lantern. Buy a cracked one, if they cracked early in their life you will find many almost new parts and they go for cheap. (Well, cheaper anyway)

    The holes in the solder come from condensation collecting at the top of the fount. I would check the bottom because it could be rusted worse than you think. They hold pressure as long as the rusted plug seals, which it will for a while.
    No, I'm not trying to rag on you, I'd like to see you get it done. I just don't want to see you scrap out something you will need. Your valve is sitting very low, there are no threads visible at all. You might need a sealer because the pipe threads will not tighten. And the valve will be too low for it's hole in the collar. Those valves are pointed in a certain direction (clocked) so that looking at the valve wheel, the pump/filler is 90° from it on the left.
    You can find generators for those, I found several on ebay. The original generator looked like a Coleman Q99.
    Good luck!
    Dan
    ICCC member #604
    Quote
    campinut
    L@@ks like you really screwed the pooch on this one, Calvin. Not sure if anyone can get that one up and running again? Happy hunting..lol..campinut..
    Like a moth at night, I am attracted to the light!..7/7/1964...Russ, from Missouri..
    Quote
    Quick Cal
    Dmacp wrote:


    Definitely look at Michael's 3708 in the restoration section. You have a crack free fount. Like I said that's a big success right there. I did a 278 and had about 3 lanterns, and one crack free fount. You are positioned very well to restore one. You just need some more parts. If I had them I'd give them to you, but I've already given them away to other members. A nicer pump would help you a lot. I don't see a frame rest (collar) but those are steel. That is the plus in getting a second lantern. Buy a cracked one, if they cracked early in their life you will find many almost new parts and they go for cheap. (Well, cheaper anyway)

    I have the collar. Just not shown.

    The holes in the solder come from condensation collecting at the top of the fount. I would check the bottom because it could be rusted worse than you think. They hold pressure as long as the rusted plug seals, which it will for a while.

    Turns out there was more than one pin hole, and leaks at the top of the bung. It had been previously repaired and didn't hold. So the po gooped it up. But it's all re-soldered now with NO LEAKS,,,,lol.


    No, I'm not trying to rag on you, I'd like to see you get it done. I just don't want to see you scrap out something you will need.

    Need? That's a tricky word. Yes I need it to feed my addiction,,,,lol. I've "COLLECTED" about 10 in the last week,,,lol. And the week before a Perfection lamp from 1905, another kero lamp from 1906 (can't remember the name), and a Aladdin caboose lamp. So I'm covered if the lights go out,,,,lol.

    Your valve is sitting very low, there are no threads visible at all. You might need a sealer because the pipe threads will not tighten. And the valve will be too low for it's hole in the collar. Those valves are pointed in a certain direction (clocked) so that looking at the valve wheel, the pump/filler is 90° from it on the left.

    That's the broken valve I was just goofing around with  and re-threaded. Now it sits too low for the hole in the collar.


    You can find generators for those, I found several on ebay. The original generator looked like a Coleman Q99.
    Good luck

    Is the Q99 the one with the loop it in it. Would that make the one I trashed not original?

    !
    Quote
    Quick Cal
    campinut wrote:
    L@@ks like you really screwed the pooch on this one, Calvin. Not sure if anyone can get that one up and running again? Happy hunting..lol..campinut..


    Don't make me name names Russ,,,,lol
    Quote
    Dmacp
    I'm looking to see what spares I have.  Yes I see the broken valve. You somehow got the broken piece out. Good work.
    On the valves, there is something you should know. Seeing the small valve wheel on the 277 from Terry's page reminded me. There are two valve spindles that look identical. But they are not. Not sure on the one pictured, but one has a single lead (thread) and the other has a double lead. If you screw a single lead thread into a double lead valve, or vice versa, you might never get it out. When Dean gets back you might ask him about this. I found out the hard way and it destroyed an otherwise good valve. (which I would have given you if I hadn't screwed it up)
    The condensation corrosion suggests more damage may be lurking but if it is a sound fount you should coat the inside with epoxy. Caswell's is the CCF approved stuff. Get the fount as clean as you can before using it. When you get a valve, both the clock angle and the height should be checked and if the valve is not tight you will need some sealer. Knowing (as you do now) how hard it is to get the valve out, I am going to go against the CCF grain here and suggest you do not use threadlocker. My AGM's all use an anaerobic gel gasket. Several of them had to be broken down again because under the screened pickup is a tiny jet which must be pricked occasionally. That's what makes an AGM a PITA. Make sure you can get it apart again if needed. I will go out and check the shed and see what I have left over from my numerous AGM all night root canals.
    Dan
    ICCC member #604
    Quote
    mnhogrider
    Reading post #35 with the Terry Marsh clip looks like a Q77 generator would match the original.
    The Q77 is a straight tube generator without a cleaning lever so just like a Q99 without the loop.
    Or get an R55.
    Steve
    ICCC Member #1396 
    BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #017
    Mack, Cat and Cadillac.
    Quote
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