200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

Erwin
Hi AGM friends.
I've pulled out a box with the parts of a disassembled lantern which was sitting around for a long time already.
I didn't work on it earlier because it obviously has some tiny cracks and I had no Caswells then. Now I'd like to get it going again but I'm not sure about the check valve.
I've tried to make a photo but I'm sorry it's blurry.
How can I unscrew the valve without damaging it? I have the check valve removal tool but that doesn't help here.
If everything fails and I damage the edges and have to use an EZ out, are replacement valves available?
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks, Erwin.
check-valve1.jpg
My homepage: http://www.eschaefer.de
Pls. see navigation on HP for Collectors Maps.
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Chucker
I've always just used two different sized screw drivers. 

Is it leaking?
Chuck
"Pleasant words are a honeycomb, Sweet to the soul and healing to the bones." Proverbs 16:24
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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Erwin
Hi Chuck.
I've tried a screw driver also but when it slipped out I was fearing I'd break the edges and stopped.
I can't judge if it leaks since it's so crusted that I can hardly see anything. I've sprayed a lot of WD40 into the pump shaft and let it soak for some time. Then we'll see (hopefully)....
My homepage: http://www.eschaefer.de
Pls. see navigation on HP for Collectors Maps.
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Lantern Junkie
Carb cleaner and let it sit overnight ...usually works fairly well .
Ernie
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Erwin
Thanks Ernie.
Unfortunately I don't have carb cleaner but I hope WD40 will work as well. We'll see tomorrow....
My homepage: http://www.eschaefer.de
Pls. see navigation on HP for Collectors Maps.
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Lantern Junkie
Are you trying to just turn the NRV or trying to remove it entirely from the pump tube ?
Ernie 
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Erwin
Ernie, I have no idea so far. If I can clean it enough to just make the valve work I'll probably not take it out completely. Let's see what the penetrating oil does...
My homepage: http://www.eschaefer.de
Pls. see navigation on HP for Collectors Maps.
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Lantern Junkie
Thats a good idea not to remove it if you dont have to . 
If the wd40 doesn't work maybe a soak in vinegar will loosen it up enough to get the NRV to unthread and work for you .
Ernie 
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SteveRetherford
WD40 would be my last choice here .
[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
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RobSchroff
WD40 would be my last choice here .


I agree - WD40 has somehow developed (and maintained) a reputation as a panacea,  but it doesn't really do any one thing well.  It's not a great solvent (use carb/choke cleaner) nor is it a great penetrant (use a liquid wrench type product). 
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Chucker
In your case Erwin I would use acetone and then cover the opening of the pump tube. Let it soak for an hour or two.

If it's corrosion of the brass you think is the issue then a bit of vinegar over night should do the job. 

Just the way I would do it.
Chuck
"Pleasant words are a honeycomb, Sweet to the soul and healing to the bones." Proverbs 16:24
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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mnhogrider
I wouldn’t mess with it, Erwin. They can be real difficult to get out and tough to find a replacement. Do a dunk test when you’re able. The shutoff plug on this type of CV is usually good.
Steve
ICCC Member #1396 
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #017
Mack, Cat and Cadillac.
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Erwin
Hi all.
Thanks for all your hints. Sometimes one only needs a little push into the right direction. ;-))
Even though WD40 might not be the best choice (I had no carb cleaner around) it loosened the dirt (rust?).
Now I can open/close the valve with the pump stem. No need to remove the valve. Now on to the next step. :-))
Thanks again and have a nice weekend.
My homepage: http://www.eschaefer.de
Pls. see navigation on HP for Collectors Maps.
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Erwin
Hi fellas.
Thanks again for your hints. Everything worked well.
Now I've another long-term project almost finished. 😁
Cleaned everything, caswell'ed the fount to be on the safe side (there were some soldering spots in the lower half) and repainted.
I'm satisfied with the result so far. Unfortunately the lighting test wasn't really succesful. The lantern changed from very dim to a little better and vice versa every second. I've cleaned the genny in the ultrasonic bath and I think that's ok.
Also uses to much air. I don't think there's a leak. It could be the pre-heating function where the tiny pipe underneath the valve block releases air. The hex cap opposite the main valve was the only thing I couldn't get off and cleaned whithout breaking.
Whatever, I think I've to disassemble again and to start-over. 😖

2572-finished.jpg 
My homepage: http://www.eschaefer.de
Pls. see navigation on HP for Collectors Maps.
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mnhogrider
Looks real nice Erwin! If it’s using air it could be the spring loaded pin behind the hex cap on the valve needs to be cleaned. But be careful as I’ve seen more than one broken off from too much force. They did put some sort of thread sealer on too so maybe some heat would help.
I’ve also had trouble getting the two piece check valve to seal properly. If you can unscrew the small center piece then polish it up sometimes that’ll work.
Steve
ICCC Member #1396 
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #017
Mack, Cat and Cadillac.
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Erwin
Hi Steve.
Thanks for your opinion.
I also assume it's that spring loaded pin. I'll disassemble everything and try again. Heat is probably a good idea.
I didn't attempt to get the check valve out. After cleaning it seams to seal properly.
Will report back.
My homepage: http://www.eschaefer.de
Pls. see navigation on HP for Collectors Maps.
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Majicwrench
Purty!

You'll get it. Pump it up lots, spin tip cleaner, run it for a bit....
Keith
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Erwin
Hi friends.
I don't know what happened. I could cry all day long. 😖
Not only have I to disassemble the lantern and check the spring-loaded pre-heat function on the valve block again as mentioned above, now I also have to re-paint the fount again.
The lantern was sitting in the glass house which was pretty warm inside but nothing excessive.
The bad paint was not at the front, facing the sun but on the back sice in front of the pure-brass 241 fount (perhaps 4-5" away).
Could that be reflection? 😳
It is only on the area you see in the picture.
I could peel the paint easily off. It doesn't stick to the fount properly.
Is there any trick painting a brass fount? I've tried with and without primer and it doesn't seem to make a difference.
Unfortunately I have to brush the paint on (for that it really came out ok) since it was specifically mixed for me and filled in a can only.
I've thourougly cleaned / de-greased the fount with acetone and a clean cloth before painting.
Any ideas? Did something like that happen to anyone before?
What should I do to prevent that again?
Thanks for your help.

2572-bad-paint.jpg 
My homepage: http://www.eschaefer.de
Pls. see navigation on HP for Collectors Maps.
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mnhogrider
My guess would be that the paint wasn’t made right. Something was wrong in the mixture. I’ve painted brass founts and don’t use primer and clean real well before applying the paint and never had that happen.
I’ve also had my share of “do-overs”. ☹️
Steve
ICCC Member #1396 
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #017
Mack, Cat and Cadillac.
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Phredd
Sorry to see that....  I agree with Steve.  What kind of paint did you use.
 And I add that I always make sure to use 200 sandpaper to rough up the finish and then clean carefully with denatured alcohol.

Phredd
ICCC#1799
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #40
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Erwin
Phredd, I didn't rough the surface up but thoroughly cleaned with Acetone. The paint was a customer mix, just for me. It's already some years old as I've painted an AGM 3006 also but I don't think paint goes bad. I've stirred it up and it looked good to me.
My homepage: http://www.eschaefer.de
Pls. see navigation on HP for Collectors Maps.
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Gasman64
Oh, NO, Erwin! That was such a nice paint job, but I really don't know what went wrong.  I hope it goes better for you next time.
Steve
ICCC #1012
logoballistol logo 1a.png

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SteveRetherford
it looks like something , fuel maybe got under the paint like from a pin hole maybe . just a guess here .
[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
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Chucker
So sorry about that one.

Painting brass founts has been iffy with me - one just wants to keep flaking off, another is still fine.

Both Steve's guesses are as good as any.
Chuck
"Pleasant words are a honeycomb, Sweet to the soul and healing to the bones." Proverbs 16:24
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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Whitegas Extraordinaire
Zero research from me but I’d treat the brass like aluminum. A light coat of etching primer over a cleeen scuffed fount. Not looking for coverage from the etching primer.
I frighten easily!

My current shade is Coleman!!

To me a lamp without a shade is creepy!

ICCC # 1865

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