200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

GJ
Picked this up in Shreveport at a Flea Market while the wife was gambling. I know very little about them, certainly have never worked on one but paid a lot less than my wife lost😂😂🥺🥺.
looks like the original globe and in decent shape. No idea what year. Any info is appreciated. 49EB0F17-CC17-4220-9BBE-A1FF14FCF5EC.jpeg 
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Pancholoco1911
Nice looking Petromax and for the date they should be stamped at the bottom, head to CPL website to find the date code. Please post pictures after fettling it. Enjoy!
~Pancho~
Looking for B-Day lantern 9/83, 7/85, 10/04, 5/11, 2/19
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #101
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Chucker
Pancho is correct, there is a code on the bottom of many but not all. 
Chuck
"Pleasant words are a honeycomb, Sweet to the soul and healing to the bones." Proverbs 16:24
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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Pancholoco1911
Chucker wrote:
Pancho is correct, there is a code on the bottom of many but not all. 


I believe new HK production doesn't have a code. 
~Pancho~
Looking for B-Day lantern 9/83, 7/85, 10/04, 5/11, 2/19
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #101
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JimL
How many points on the star?  Also, does it state Germany or Made in Germany on the fount?

Edit:  10 points on the star is a well made German one.  11 points would be somewhere in Asia, but I don't recall where.  Made in Germany is the other clue that it's really a quality one made in Germany.  Just the word Germany doesn't mean much.

-Jim

Flammable liquids, open flame, what could go wrong?


There is a very fine line between hobby and mental illness. - Dave Barry
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GJ
I may have gotten lucky on this one, has 10 points on the star and says made in Germany, also cleaned the bottom of the fount and it’s stamped 2273.
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JimL
https://classicpressurelamps.com/https://classicpressurelamps.com/I can't date it, but will say that you scored.  i think they stopped making them in Germany around 1960, but I'm not up on the history of them.

As stated above, folks over at CPL would be a good resource.  In case you're not aware, CPL is classicpressurelamps.com

-Jim

Flammable liquids, open flame, what could go wrong?


There is a very fine line between hobby and mental illness. - Dave Barry
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Chucker
So...22nd day of the 7th month of 1963, IIRC?

Good pick on that one! Whether you love 'em or hate 'em, they challenge the amateur and sometimes the pro when fettling. I got to the point where one of mine needed the pre-heat tube re-soldered. I stretched my know-how a bit that day, years ago. Glad I kept at it. 
Chuck
"Pleasant words are a honeycomb, Sweet to the soul and healing to the bones." Proverbs 16:24
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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mnhogrider
Run it on kerosene only.
Steve
ICCC Member #1396 
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #017
Mack, Cat and Cadillac.
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GJ
Hopefully I will have one to show off soon!! Going to have to do the research first.
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JimL
>>Run it on kerosene only.

+1  Regardless of any instructions to the contrary from 'another' company.

-Jim

Flammable liquids, open flame, what could go wrong?


There is a very fine line between hobby and mental illness. - Dave Barry
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Rustytank
Great score!I got my feet wet on those with two Aida Express 1500s that were crudded up with years old regular unleaded. Got them both going with a few hours of work. Ditch the lead washers and go with viton o-rings. Pips can be made fairly easily. It is a different ball game, I'll look up some reference material I have bookmarked and post it. 
The kerosene only admonition isn't entirely the case. Absolutely do not run gasoline, Coleman fuel, naptha or any other volatile fuel. My two run great on pump kerosene, canned kerosene, low sulpher diesel, Tiki brand citronella oil, and Dollar General Flame-Glo brand charcoal lighter fluid. I mainly run it off diesel now. I have used a Peerless 24a on it with good results but I stumbled across Lighthouse 625 mantles at the local Mennonite shop and they are my favorite for these lanterns.
Here is a gold mine of info
275 Appreciation Syndicate #0245
Looking for birthday lanterns 11/58, 3/68, 3/73, 11/96, 6/97, 11/97, 12/00
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Erwin
http://www.eschaefer.de/hobbys/starkl/px-rest.pdf
My homepage: http://www.eschaefer.de
Pls. see navigation on HP for Collectors Maps.
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Chucker


Erwin has all the knowledge you need to get it running at that link. We appreciate his knowledge and input.
Chuck
"Pleasant words are a honeycomb, Sweet to the soul and healing to the bones." Proverbs 16:24
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
Quote
Rustytank
One thing none of the diagrams will show you is that the fuel pickup for the pre-heater torch is threaded on both ends. Mine were so gunked up that there was no way to blow them out with carb cleaner. They also each had a crack running lengthways of the tube I believe was caused by the gasoline turning into varnish and expanding. Anyhow I burned them out with a propane torch and quenched them several times. Same with the head and I found that the individual bristles of the 3 pack of utility type cleaning brushes sold in the hardware aisle at Dollar General were the perfect size to clean the orifice holes on the pre-heater. I sheathed the pickup tube in weed eater/chainsaw fuel line as a quick fix and it's working well so far.
275 Appreciation Syndicate #0245
Looking for birthday lanterns 11/58, 3/68, 3/73, 11/96, 6/97, 11/97, 12/00
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mnhogrider
Rustytank wrote:
Great score!I got my feet wet on those with two Aida Express 1500s that were crudded up with years old regular unleaded. Got them both going with a few hours of work. Ditch the lead washers and go with viton o-rings. Pips can be made fairly easily. It is a different ball game, I'll look up some reference material I have bookmarked and post it. 
The kerosene only admonition isn't entirely the case. Absolutely do not run gasoline, Coleman fuel, naptha or any other volatile fuel. My two run great on pump kerosene, canned kerosene, low sulpher diesel, Tiki brand citronella oil, and Dollar General Flame-Glo brand charcoal lighter fluid. I mainly run it off diesel now. I have used a Peerless 24a on it with good results but I stumbled across Lighthouse 625 mantles at the local Mennonite shop and they are my favorite for these lanterns.
Here is a gold mine of info

How well do the Viton O rings hold up to heat? My Petromax’s run pretty hot. Especially the top of the fount and collar. Somewhere on the internet there was somebody that did a study and good write-up on his theory on why these lanterns would fireball because of excessive heat causing the lead washers to fail. 
I’ve got a couple where the washers have started to melt.. They do make heat shields for these lanterns I believe.
Steve
ICCC Member #1396 
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #017
Mack, Cat and Cadillac.
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Chucker
Steve, it's been my experience I prefer the original 'leaded' type washers for the valve to fount, and pre-heater to fount connections. The NRV can use Viton, even a harder Durometer like 70 or 75. 

If these leaded washers fail they 1) would not be recommended and included in tune-up kits and 2) I believe it would be from using gasoline/benzine in the mix or by itself.

I've never had or heard of a member whose had the leaded Pmax washers fail even after 6-7 hours of burn time on kero. 
Chuck
"Pleasant words are a honeycomb, Sweet to the soul and healing to the bones." Proverbs 16:24
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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GCinSC
Chuck I'm with you, lead seals for mine. The other thing the lead seal does allow is tightening the carb to clocked position then finding out it's not quite tight and being able to carefully crank it one more full turn getting it back to clocked position. The lead just oozes out.

 GJ if this is a first, I can recommend pre assembly pressure testing of the fount with soap bubbles and you can use a metric bolt and grommets (found mine at ACE hardware) that sealed fount. You only need a parts commitment from the pump check valve and a good leather to do this. And at finally assy another pressure test with soap bubbles. 

These are different and worth the effort. 
Gary, self acclaimed Cast Iron Camp Cook & Tinkerer.
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0154
Mil-SpecOps #0308
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GJ
Ok, have looked up the reference material and read y’all’s advise, about to jump into it, will check fount pressure first, I am sure I will be posting more questions and asking for advise, this is my first Petromax.
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Smudge
You can get a heat shield at Petromax.com.
https://www.petromax.com/product/protection-plate-hk350-hk500-chrome/
They refer to it as a protection plate. I had to trim some material from the outer diameter for a nice fit on my Petromax.
"If all the beasts were gone, men would die from a great loneliness of spirit, for whatever happens to the beasts,
also happens to the man. Whatever befalls the Earth, befalls the sons of the Earth.” - Chief Seattle

ICCC # 1726  -  Bernz0matiC Appreciation Club #057
Perfection Heater Collectors #6
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Rustytank
I've had no problems since the rebuild on mine with the viton. I do run it with the heat shield. And it's probably got 125+ may be more hours on those o-rings. 
275 Appreciation Syndicate #0245
Looking for birthday lanterns 11/58, 3/68, 3/73, 11/96, 6/97, 11/97, 12/00
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GJ
I’m using the web site that I believe Chuck put up, shocked at how easy the check valve came out and apart. Before i took the check valve out I attempted to pressure the fount after replacing cup, no air was getting through the check valve, soaked it over night using card cleaner in the tube, no luck. So I took the valve out and apart, looks pretty clean I did stretch the spring out. What would be blocking the air From pumping into the fount? 618D516F-06B1-4D2E-9BD3-7B731948FA84.jpeg 
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Chucker
When these lantern sit for a few years the PIP material can kind of adhere or stick to the brass. It might take a bit of a slam of the palm of the hand on the pump to free it up in the first place.

However, you say you have taken it apart and it still won't pump air into the fount - which tells me your spring maybe be too long, too much tension. I just cut one down the other day to allow me to pump it up. Used a spring from a ball point pen. 

Note: if that leaded washer has a crack even half way across it, toss it. They can take some squishing a couple times but a crack means it's ready to fail when you wish it wouldn't.
Chuck
"Pleasant words are a honeycomb, Sweet to the soul and healing to the bones." Proverbs 16:24
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
Quote
GCinSC
That's a one way valve. When I pump one it makes a PFFFT sound as it's in liquid kero. You should feel an easyish push until near the bottom and then pressure overcomes the check valve. PFFFT

Nice layout. No. 3 might have been stuck inside No. 5. If you have any o-rings to play with put the check valve back together and install with o-ring and retest.

I try not to use a lead seal until things prove out as they don't reuse well. 
Gary, self acclaimed Cast Iron Camp Cook & Tinkerer.
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0154
Mil-SpecOps #0308
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Smudge
It could be hard to pump if there's too much tension on the spring. Once the fount is pressurized, the valve/pip is held in place by the fount pressure so the spring tension does not come into play at that point.
"If all the beasts were gone, men would die from a great loneliness of spirit, for whatever happens to the beasts,
also happens to the man. Whatever befalls the Earth, befalls the sons of the Earth.” - Chief Seattle

ICCC # 1726  -  Bernz0matiC Appreciation Club #057
Perfection Heater Collectors #6
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GJ
At a loss, every thing is clean, tried using a pen spring , cut it down, and still will not pump up, unless I use my compressor. I used a small wire to push #3 (pic above)down in the valve, just seems like it takes to much pressure. Is there a site I can order a new spring, this one is really clean as you can see in the pic above, wonder if someone changed it and used the wrong one?
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Pancholoco1911
GJ wrote:
At a loss, every thing is clean, tried using a pen spring , cut it down, and still will not pump up, unless I use my compressor. I used a small wire to push #3 (pic above)down in the valve, just seems like it takes to much pressure. Is there a site I can order a new spring, this one is really clean as you can see in the pic above, wonder if someone changed it and used the wrong one?


try and cut another loop of that spring. BriteLyt has replacements for these lanterns or Lehman’s has a Petromax service kit too. They are other websites available too, I personally have ordered from BriteLyt and parts arrived safe and fast shipping 
~Pancho~
Looking for B-Day lantern 9/83, 7/85, 10/04, 5/11, 2/19
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #101
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GCinSC
Did you replace the pump leather already? Was it for this model?

I just did a bench assy test of 1-3-4-5 and used a toothpick to go thru the hole and push the pip down against the spring. Finger tip pressure EASILY pushed the pip in.

Also recently ordered two sets of 500CP perishables. When I ordered about 3 wks ago: Lehman was out of stock, Petromax US did not reply to e-mail inquiry, BriteLyt  order processed and shipped same day, no issues.
 
Gary, self acclaimed Cast Iron Camp Cook & Tinkerer.
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0154
Mil-SpecOps #0308
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GJ
I replaced the pump leather, was tough to get in, this is what it looked like when I pulled it out. Do they need a different size? I used a very scientific method to test the valve, I blew in it, no comments, didn’t budge. Only way to get air in was using an air compressor. I may order a new check valve and spring if I can find one. It’s in good shape compared to some of the other lanterns I’ve bought.41D93219-31C5-4571-860C-F746788F784F.jpeg 
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Rustytank
With the check valve disassembled can you see through the orifice in it? Are you certain the check valve body is making a good seal at the bottom of the pump well? Check for remnants of the old seal and other debris that is preventing the valve body from properly sealing.
You aren't trying to reuse the old lead seal are you? That may be a problem too.
275 Appreciation Syndicate #0245
Looking for birthday lanterns 11/58, 3/68, 3/73, 11/96, 6/97, 11/97, 12/00
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GCinSC
If that’s a new leather it’s not how they are supposed to look. That folded in section is not correct. Is that a Coleman pump leather?
Gary, self acclaimed Cast Iron Camp Cook & Tinkerer.
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0154
Mil-SpecOps #0308
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GJ
From OCP, did I seem to fit right going in, I tried 2 same result. Are the pump leathers the same size as Coleman for these? 
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GCinSC

I just measured both a Coleman pump cyl bore .815” and the Petromax pump cyl bore is .712”. 

Coleman pump leather is too big for petromax pump. 


What part number did you install?

Gary, self acclaimed Cast Iron Camp Cook & Tinkerer.
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0154
Mil-SpecOps #0308
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mnhogrider
You can also order a pump cap/air valve conversion. It’s like a tire valve with a Schrader valve core in it. It eliminates the pump.
You should be able to pump air looking at your check valve pieces. It might not hold air but it should at least pump. You might be able to turn the pip upside down in the cup to get by while you wait for parts. That oversized pump cup looks questionable. I know the Petromax cups are smaller than the Coleman.
Steve
ICCC Member #1396 
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #017
Mack, Cat and Cadillac.
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Dmacp
Quote:
10 points on the star is a well made German one

the early imports also had a 10 point star. and they were very well made. Not sure where but I've got one and it is a beauty. Maybe someone here knows?
Dan
ICCC member #604
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GJ
Gary, if your asking me what part number pump cup I installed, it was one I got from OCP which I’ve learned is wrong.
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GCinSC
GJ,

That's what I should have added to my comment was the Coleman part number to be accurate. I measured the pump from a 425 for my size post. 

These are worth the effort if you're looking for something different that throws the light.

Gary
Gary, self acclaimed Cast Iron Camp Cook & Tinkerer.
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0154
Mil-SpecOps #0308
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Pancholoco1911
Get this thing running, you won’t be disappointed. I fettled my Hipólito the same day arrived and this wouldn’t be my last.
~Pancho~
Looking for B-Day lantern 9/83, 7/85, 10/04, 5/11, 2/19
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #101
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