200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.
mgmlvks
Received this today to try and make my "CZ' 220C as accurate as rationally possible.  "The Book" says mixing chamber is 6620 if cast.  Later evolves into 5136 which appears to be less beefy.  Between being 70 years old steel against brass, broken stud and my impatience here it is.  Seems I may be in need of a qualified braizer to close the vent hole for retapping at 10-32 , same for the air tube screw opening, which I seem to have drilled through the other side.

Hmmm. What is screw threads for air tube screw and is the mixing chamber threaded?  Appears to be.

Resizer_15596163514620.jpg  Resizer_15596163514622.jpg 
  1. Resizer_15596163514621.jpg
Mike, ICCC member #1156, Slant Saver Group #011, 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0215
"In order for the light to shine so brightly, the darkness must be present"
Francis Bacon
(and - for those who have asked - avatar from postcard and says "Coming Home by Rail".  https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4595/27430282209_39a564be00_z.jpg
 
 
Quote
Rubing
What is a CZ 220? I have some 5136 mixing chambers that seem to be more rebust than what you have. 
ICCC # 1402
Quote
mgmlvks
Possibly a Crown Zellerbach used fount from Greg Anderson.  I'm buying the sizzle as they say!  Burner was donated by MDS70 (Mike swihart) for some authenticity! 

Link here
https://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/post/fs-2208c-brass-fount-with-valve-and-pump-dated-846-sold-10149330?pid=1308664063
Mike, ICCC member #1156, Slant Saver Group #011, 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0215
"In order for the light to shine so brightly, the darkness must be present"
Francis Bacon
(and - for those who have asked - avatar from postcard and says "Coming Home by Rail".  https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4595/27430282209_39a564be00_z.jpg
 
 
Quote
Gand28
Mike, I’m gonna send you the right burner, but the tip cleaner/eblock is pooched. You may have to drill the eblock out and add another. Can’t get the one in there to move much. 

So trade one problem for another, but one step closer!
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
Quote
mgmlvks
Thanks Greg!  I'll send some postage your way shortly.  I am going to try the "drill a bigger hole, plug it and drill the right hole" solution on the mixing chamber.  A critical life skill I need to practice!
Mike, ICCC member #1156, Slant Saver Group #011, 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0215
"In order for the light to shine so brightly, the darkness must be present"
Francis Bacon
(and - for those who have asked - avatar from postcard and says "Coming Home by Rail".  https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4595/27430282209_39a564be00_z.jpg
 
 
Quote
Gand28
Mike, did you find this thread in the How-to section?

https://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/post/repairing-a-vent-stud-hole-3351913?pid=35980687
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
Quote
mgmlvks
Thanks for the link!  - I remember reading that a long time ago - and am doing similar.  Since we have a GREAT old timey hardware store (Gronis) who has all kinds of brass screws, washers, bolts and such - repaired the two smaller holes by drill/tap for 8-32 and used blue lock-tite (am out of red it appears) and will drill/tap for the retainer screw (think I got a 6-??).  Did the same drill/tap for the top hole - 1/4-20, but really fits too loose, and I need some red lock-tite anyway so never set the screw.  Reread the article and may switch to a pipe thread - will be Thursday before I get back on it.  Pics later.
Mike, ICCC member #1156, Slant Saver Group #011, 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0215
"In order for the light to shine so brightly, the darkness must be present"
Francis Bacon
(and - for those who have asked - avatar from postcard and says "Coming Home by Rail".  https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4595/27430282209_39a564be00_z.jpg
 
 
Quote
mgmlvks
Free Cat Status Update!

Pics show plugged small holes (one for retainer screw and one because I drilled it out!) with staked edges and blue lock-tite.  Also center punched for the hole to drill for retainer screw when get the air tube on.  Also the 1/4-20 screw tapped in - BUT  the 1/4-20 is too loose because of my impatience - so will be drilling that out and re-tapping to 5/16-18 (using brass toilet tank bolt) with red lock-tite.

[48014410367_a2cd1cac9e_z] 

[48014319336_2382e8010c_z] 

[48014330641_719522a692_z] 
Mike, ICCC member #1156, Slant Saver Group #011, 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0215
"In order for the light to shine so brightly, the darkness must be present"
Francis Bacon
(and - for those who have asked - avatar from postcard and says "Coming Home by Rail".  https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4595/27430282209_39a564be00_z.jpg
 
 
Quote
Eel
The side screw is 6-32 x 1/4 or 5/16 pan head slotted head ZPS.  Mixing chamber's threaded three holes, 1/2-32.  Vent stud is 10-32.  Is there some reason you couldn't thread the far side of the top and run a side screw in there too?   Not so "pretty" but works perfectlyl!

I think I'd rebraze before going to a 5/16 vent stud.

EEL Eclectic Lanterns, div.  Doofenshmirtz-EEL Incorporated.

Quote
mgmlvks
Eel wrote:
The side screw is 6-32 x 1/4 or 5/16 pan head slotted head ZPS.  Mixing chamber's threaded three holes, 1/2-32.  Vent stud is 10-32.  Is there some reason you couldn't thread the far side of the top and run a side screw in there too?   Not so "pretty" but works perfectlyl!  I think I'd rebraze before going to a 5/16 vent stud.


More of an experiment than anything else - I broke it - now I am going to fix it - don't have a torch - so will try my advice I give to others!  Appreciate the thread sizes - was pretty sure the small screw was 6-32 but now know others do too - comforting!  Actually have some 10-32 helicoils coming - but they may be OTBE until the next project.
Mike, ICCC member #1156, Slant Saver Group #011, 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0215
"In order for the light to shine so brightly, the darkness must be present"
Francis Bacon
(and - for those who have asked - avatar from postcard and says "Coming Home by Rail".  https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4595/27430282209_39a564be00_z.jpg
 
 
Quote
Eel
That particular mixing chamber is a bit hard to come by.  Might I offer some brazing/threading services?  Unlike eel-paks these services would not be quite as favorably priced, though my hourly rate has happily fallen of late.  (It's disgusting lol!  I am so much enjoying not being able to sell every waking hour at full price!  That means I have some waking hours to do things I actually want to do)  We haz the tooling and 56 alloy to hand at Eelhouse, and you've done me a favor or three along the way, so we could probably make this work.
When you have the pocket change, I do recommend owning the $15-before-coupon HFT 63170 methpipe/crème-brulee torch - it solves lots of problems including healing stuck 242/200A pricker levers and liberating gaskets from inserts.

EEL Eclectic Lanterns, div.  Doofenshmirtz-EEL Incorporated.

Quote
zoomkat
"so will be drilling that out and re-tapping to 5/16-18 (using brass toilet tank bolt) with red lock-tite."

If the temperature is running low enough for the red lock-tite to be effective, you probably could use a soft solder. If the temperature is higher and the hole does not go into the manifold chamber, then you might just put in the size stud you want and silver solder it in place.
Quote
mgmlvks
Red Locktite is an interesting choice - 400F, lanterns put more than that.  May be a need for a pin into the 5/16" bold.  If/When it all fails - may need to send off for a brazing session.
Mike, ICCC member #1156, Slant Saver Group #011, 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0215
"In order for the light to shine so brightly, the darkness must be present"
Francis Bacon
(and - for those who have asked - avatar from postcard and says "Coming Home by Rail".  https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4595/27430282209_39a564be00_z.jpg
 
 
Quote
zoomkat
If the manifold hole still has some internal threads left, the hole might be lined with steel or brass wool, or similar, then screw the desired stud down into it until it jams up. Then maybe melt some solder in. One might need to measure the temperature of a manifold stud/stud hole on a running lantern to see what temperatures are present.
Quote
Eel
I happen to have a 295 running (with two 2CHG so not my usual bigguns) - the top of the vent stud, with vent on, "down the throat" of the nut - 257 C.  The top of the mixing chamber would be quite a bit hotter.  And I'd bet a 220c vent stud would be hotter than a 295 vent stud.

EEL Eclectic Lanterns, div.  Doofenshmirtz-EEL Incorporated.

Quote
zoomkat
"The top of the mixing chamber would be quite a bit hotter"

The external areas on the manifold maybe hot, but the inside wall appears to be lower than the flash point of the fuel air mixture inside. If you are measuring the temperature, most likely you measuring the temperature of the hot combustion gases on the outside rather than the actual metal temperature of the manifold. One may need to use a thermocouple bead down in the stud hole to get a more accurate temperature reading. One might attempt to make a DIY heli coil out of a strand of wire. That manifold is thick metal, but one might be able to tack a stud in with 56% silver solder using a map/propane torch.
Quote
Eel
zoomkat wrote:
"The top of the mixing chamber would be quite a bit hotter"

The external areas on the manifold maybe hot, but the inside wall appears to be lower than the flash point of the fuel air mixture inside. If you are measuring the temperature, most likely you measuring the temperature of the hot combustion gases on the outside rather than the actual metal temperature of the manifold. One may need to use a thermocouple bead down in the stud hole to get a more accurate temperature reading. One might attempt to make a DIY heli coil out of a strand of wire. That manifold is thick metal, but one might be able to tack a stud in with 56% silver solder using a map/propane torch.


One is using a low-mass type K down the vent nut, avoiding direct exposure to combustion gases.  One accepts the result as sufficient proxy to say that tin/lead or SAC solder isn't going to work out well in this application.

EEL Eclectic Lanterns, div.  Doofenshmirtz-EEL Incorporated.

Quote
mgmlvks
Plugged and tested.  Tapping tomorrow if replacement studs come in.
[48017224873_0239cc8bd4_z] 
Mike, ICCC member #1156, Slant Saver Group #011, 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0215
"In order for the light to shine so brightly, the darkness must be present"
Francis Bacon
(and - for those who have asked - avatar from postcard and says "Coming Home by Rail".  https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4595/27430282209_39a564be00_z.jpg
 
 
Quote
Colemannut
Eel wrote:
That particular mixing chamber is a bit hard to come by.


Going have to disagree! The 6620 is found on the 152 lamps and 220/228D’s from the late 40’s. And many other lamps and lanterns from that time frame. 
Quote
Welcome to the Coleman Collectors Forum, an international forum of Coleman enthusiast and collectors, as such people from all over the world come here to read about Coleman collecting, repair, and to meet and make friends. The pages contained here are intended for the use of amateur collectors and people interested in Coleman collecting, restoration and repair as a hobby. It goes without saying to refrain from political posts, personal attacks and inflammatory posts.

Please note, all postings are the personal opinions of the members posting, the owner, administrators and moderators of the forum do not warrant the accuracy of posted information or endorse the safety of such.