200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

woodlandlife
Morning everyone, I just got a a46 530 and when trying to light it i noticed that it dumps all tank pressure quick and will not light easily. When i do get it lit and give its warm up i have zero flame control. Any ideas of whats going on before i totally dissemble it when its not needed?
Quote
1hpycmpr
G’morning!  Have you oiled the leather pump cup and replaced the fuel cap gasket?  If not, the pressure may be escaping at that point.  Fuel cap, that is.  Until you can build and maintain pressure in the tank, there’s no point moving forward with more troubleshooting. Welcome from Colorado!
Mark
Quote
woodlandlife
yep they are all good and hold pressure, pumped up and let sit for 24 hours and still has full pressure, its when i i open the valve the 1/4 turn it dumps all pressure out the jet and acts like the valve is open all the way.
Quote
1hpycmpr
If you can see under the flame spreader plate, rotate the tip cleaning lever an see if the pricker is just visible In the tip/ jet when the lever is in the up position.  If hard to see, you can unscrew the bell with the flame spreader attached to get a close view.
Mark
Quote
1hpycmpr
Should have also asked if you get a pretty impressive flame when you light it.  If so, this is normal and will settle down once the vaporizer/generator gets hot enough to vaporize the gas.
Mark
Quote
woodlandlife
yes i can see it and it moves up and down freely, when running that doesn't adjust flame either it is either on or off when the lever is turned up and down.
Quote
1hpycmpr
The lever is to run the tip cleaner up and down and is not for adjusting the flame.  When the tip cleaner pricker is up inside the tip, the flame will most likely go out.  The tip cleaner needs to be in the down position for the stove to run.  These stoves are not really adjustable and are designed to run like a blast furnace.

Edited to add:  I have a tendency to skim and not read everything.  If I would have slowed down and completely read your post title.....🙂
Mark
Quote
woodlandlife
lol understandable and i know the cleaning lever not the adjustment, the valve knob whether its at a 1/16 turn or fully open acts the same and thought the 530 model was somewhat adjustable where the m1950 is literally only a blast furnace... or is this really just how these operate. I am just getting into old colemans and vids i've seen on this seem to have a little flame adjustment.
Quote
1hpycmpr
Yea, pretty much how these operate.  I use mine to heat liquid meals quickly or boil water for tea/cleaning dishes!  Fun to light for sure!
Mark
Quote
HercL4D2
When you rotate the tip cleaning lever it clears the jet orifice of carbon deposits that can plug the jet and also allows fuel and air to pass out of the jet. When the valve is closed no fuel or air will pass. If the stove is holding pressure the I suspect the needle in the F/A tube inside is missing the spring or it is stuck in the down position allowing the air to escape out the generator jet. It probably needs a good generator mesh cleaning. A good guide to rebuilding your 530 here. https://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/post/how-to-rebuild-a-530-gi-pocket-stove-5102549 
Quote
woodlandlife
Alrighty then, and mine isn't hard to light, at least in current temps, just instant jet engine. and that is pretty much what i plan to do with it throw it in my pack to boil water and heat meals while out n the woods. Thank you for the fast response and info.
Quote
woodlandlife
HercL4D2 wrote:
When you rotate the tip cleaning lever it clears the jet orifice of carbon deposits that can plug the jet and also allows fuel and air to pass out of the jet. When the valve is closed no fuel or air will pass. If the stove is holding pressure the I suspect the needle in the F/A tube inside is missing the spring or it is stuck in the down position allowing the air to escape out the generator jet. It probably needs a good generator mesh cleaning. A good guide to rebuilding your 530 here. https://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/post/how-to-rebuild-a-530-gi-pocket-stove-5102549 

alright, does sound like whats happening for flame adjustment i will defiantly go to the mesh and clean it. The link you posted isn't working doyou by chance have anouther one or easy enough to just search for a rebuild guild.
Quote
hikerduane
You can lower the flame, run the pricker up a little, pretty touchie and not precise.
Duane
Duane-All seasons, year round backpacker and camper.  So many stoves and lanterns, who's counting.
Quote
woodlandlife
hikerduane wrote:
You can lower the flame, run the pricker up a little, pretty touchie and not precise.
Duane

how mine is its with the pricker its either full bore or it shuts it off really no adjustment no matter how small of movement i do on the pricker lever.
Quote
JimL
When you run into a dead link like that, something changed in the link.  Search the words and you'll find it here:
https://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/post/how-to-rebuild-a-530-gi-pocket-stove-5102549

The screws on the frame are notorious for stripping.  You can remove the pricker lever and valve stem to pull the valve from the frame, but I haven't gone that route myself.  The PO of one I just picked up for a friend did that because of the screws stripping. 

To disassemble mine, I brought the stove to Lowes and found a very large two-piece screwdriver set for six bucks that the slotted screwdriver (also came with a Phillips) completely filled the slot on the screws and I was able to disassemble the stove.

-Jim

Flammable liquids, open flame, what could go wrong?


There is a very fine line between hobby and mental illness. - Dave Barry
Quote
woodlandlife
thanks for the information, guess  I am just gonna bite it and buy new seals and such sense its gonna be torn down to base so might as well go there once and be done.
Quote
JimL
Good idea, and you'll have confidence in it knowing that you went through it yourself.

-Jim

Flammable liquids, open flame, what could go wrong?


There is a very fine line between hobby and mental illness. - Dave Barry
Quote
Gunhippie
The only seal you need to replace is the fuel cap gasket. It's 74-year-old rubber!

Get some of your favorite penetrating oil and soak down those frame screws RIGHT NOW. If you run the stove some afterwards, so much the better. Re-apply the oil after you run it, and run it outside as it'll really stink up the house. That'll give you a fair chance of getting the screws out without damage. When you go to put the stove back together, take one of the screws down to the hardware store and buy some brass or stainless screws in the same size and length. Use a tiny amount of anti-seize when you put the screws back in, and it'll be much easier the next time you need to remove them in, say, seventy years.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
JimL
What Timm wrote, but I want to emphasize that you not only want the right size, but the length is also critical.  If you go with screws any longer, you'll punch holes into the fount.  I found the right size at an Ace, but needed to cut them down to match the length.

-Jim

Flammable liquids, open flame, what could go wrong?


There is a very fine line between hobby and mental illness. - Dave Barry
Quote
woodlandlife
sounds good, i have them soaking in kroil atm and will most ikely go ss to keep to the look of the rest of it, as for seals i ment the pump cup and 3 piece cap gasket... the other is the pick up tube thinking the spring is junked up or something. For the price better safe then sorry.
Quote
Pancholoco1911
OCP has the screws for $3 also once there you can order a filler cap seal and some extra parts you could be in need in a near future. Mike is selling his store so better hurry 😉

forgot to say Welcome from CA
~Pancho~
Looking for B-Day lantern 9/83, 7/85

BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #101
Quote
woodlandlife
OCP has the screws for $3 also once there you can order a filler cap seal and some extra parts you could be in need in a near future. Mike is selling his store so better hurry 😉

forgot to say Welcome from CA

thats where I am ordering the parts from but didn't know the store is being sold so think im gonna be ordering a couple extra and parts for other models I'm looking to get, Thanks for the heads up and thanks for the welcome ðŸ˜ƒ
Quote
SteveRetherford
the way to adjust a 530 is not to pump it up so much to start with , if after its warmed up and you want more heat you add a few more pumps , but there is no way to lower the temps with a fully pumped up fount , a flame disc helps a bit too ..... the key is dont pump it up so much to start with :-)
[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
Quote
HercL4D2
woodlandlife Try this link.

https://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/post/how-to-rebuild-a-530-gi-pocket-stove-5102549?pid=1267353061&highlight=530
Quote
Gasman64
[welcome] from Pennsylvania!
Good luck with your stove, and could you by chance give us a first name?
Steve
ICCC #1012
logoballistol logo 1a.png

Quote
woodlandlife
HercL4D2 wrote:
When you rotate the tip cleaning lever it clears the jet orifice of carbon deposits that can plug the jet and also allows fuel and air to pass out of the jet. When the valve is closed no fuel or air will pass. If the stove is holding pressure the I suspect the needle in the F/A tube inside is missing the spring or it is stuck in the down position allowing the air to escape out the generator jet. It probably needs a good generator mesh cleaning. A good guide to rebuilding your 530 here. https://www.colemancollectorsforum.com/post/how-to-rebuild-a-530-gi-pocket-stove-5102549 

After doing a tear down it seems that the F/A spring was fubar... after replacing it the thing starts like it should and runs so much better.Thank you for the direction pointed to, it solved my headache with it... and sense then I have added a unfired m1950 stove along with 2 220 lanters and 1 1962 252a Milspec never fired in perfect condition, no chips or rust in box... in which is a question for collectors here is that is it worth keeping it as a mantle queen  or pop its cherry and light the thing.
Quote
Chucker
Welcome Woody? The roarer burners are just plain fun when running well.

Adjusting the flame: pretty much what Steve Retherford said, start with lower pressure - add as needed AND add a round stainless steel flame spreader plate. A friend made mine for me and they help to "spread" the flame out.  

You'll find many opinion's on whether or not to light and unfired GPA from history. I have done it a few times but with items I plan on keeping and using regularly. I also have some shelf queens and some are unfired and will keep a monetary value. In the end - it's yours, do as you wish.
Chuck
"Pleasant words are a honeycomb, Sweet to the soul and healing to the bones." Proverbs 16:24
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
Quote
woodlandlife
Chucker wrote:
Welcome Woody? The roarer burners are just plain fun when running well.

Adjusting the flame: pretty much what Steve Retherford said, start with lower pressure - add as needed AND add a round stainless steel flame spreader plate. A friend made mine for me and they help to "spread" the flame out.  

You'll find many opinion's on whether or not to light and unfired GPA from history. I have done it a few times but with items I plan on keeping and using regularly. I also have some shelf queens and some are unfired and will keep a monetary value. In the end - it's yours, do as you wish.


Yea, I am finding the work arounds as I use it out and about now that its running allot better and i did get a ss flame spreader to help with temp control. As for the 252a the only reason I am debating on it is that i scored it at a online estate auction for $20 so I don't have a allot of money into it and 2 i have the 220's that are a bit used so I don't have the worry of damaging something pristine ( I didn't know it was nos until i picked it up, nice bonus i think).
Quote


...
...
Welcome to the Coleman Collectors Forum, an international forum of Coleman enthusiast and collectors, as such people from all over the world come here to read about Coleman collecting, repair, and to meet and make friends. The pages contained here are intended for the use of amateur collectors and people interested in Coleman collecting, restoration and repair as a hobby. It goes without saying to refrain from political posts, personal attacks and inflammatory posts.

Please note, all postings are the personal opinions of the members posting, the owner, administrators and moderators of the forum do not warrant the accuracy of posted information or endorse the safety of such.