200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

paulbarrette
Hi all,
I saw this m4 stove for sale here.  He wants$30, days it works fine.  What do the experts think?  I am think it is my next project.

ad_0_1599936313175.jpg  ad_1_1599936313182.jpg 
Paul Barrette
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Litemup1
I would jump on it for 30 bucks 
Silvani
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paulbarrette
Litemup1 wrote:
I would jump on it for 30 bucks 


I am picking it up tomorrow and will  post more pics.  Apparently I will need a shelf at this rate.
Thanks
Pb
Paul Barrette
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austin65uri
Looks like it's in sound condition and has honest wear.  Not the easiest model to find; offer less and see what happens, or just grab it.
Bill.
ICCC#1601
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Newfie
Try and get it for $20 unless you agreed to $30.

4M are very common stoves.
Shane Looking for the following Canadian birthday lanterns or lamps: 2-32, 6-34,
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Barrett
Excellent, another new Stovie 🙂
That'll clean up nice and continue serving as intended. 
Andrew

Living and learning in NZ
Hoping to reach cognitive and emotional maturity before my children do.
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paulbarrette
Barrett wrote:
Excellent, another new Stovie 🙂
That'll clean up nice and continue serving as intended. 


🤘 We almost have the same last name.
Paul Barrette
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Barrett


🤘 We almost have the same last name.


And my Dad's name is Paul lol
Andrew

Living and learning in NZ
Hoping to reach cognitive and emotional maturity before my children do.
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Mister Wilson

Newfie wrote:

4M are very common stoves.

Maybe in Canada. 

John
H.C. Lanterns dealer
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #2001 A Turd's Odyssey
Canadian Blues #028
Coleman Slant Saver #31
Looking for 6-56 and 6-58 Birthday lanterns.
There's been an alarming increase in the number of things I know nothing about.
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paulbarrette
I picked up the stove (and lantern) today.
Not sure how to date the stove, there is no date on the tank hooks.  The handle has tape, not sure what was supposed to be there.

Case has a bit of rust, dings, had been used a fair bit.  Nice heavy case compared to my 97  425 model.
No stickers left.

Tank holds air, pump works, sprays fuel on command.  Still has fuel.  He says it was used recently.  I haven't fired it up yet.

One of the leg lock nobs is missing.

My plan is to derust with acetic acid and clear coat.


Pb
Paul Barrette
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paulbarrette
[image] 
Paul Barrette
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Duck
The tape is there to make it more comfortable to carry. I don’t believe anything was there before. Barret should know if I remember correctly he has a few 4Ms

Joe
Mil-SpecOps #0219
Stovie and Damn proud of it


how long does one have to be dead before it’s considered archeology  and not grave robbery?


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paulbarrette


[image]  [image]  [image][image] 
Paul Barrette
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paulbarrette
[image] 
Paul Barrette
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Barrett
Hi Paul, that's looks in great condition. 
The handles are just bare wire, the tape on that one suggests someone carried it a little further than their fingers were comfortable with. 
Is the tank magnetic? The two stamped 4M's I have have non magnetic Everdur tanks,  one has the burners like yours and the other has complete cast iron burners which isn't the norm for a 4m.
The 4's became a little bit of a rabbit hole for me when I found a couple of unstamped model # cased 4k's with cast iron burners and Everdur tanks,  appears NZ got a few unusual models.
These are the two stamped 4M's just to sure the burner difference. 
They're great stoves and you'll enjoy it.
20200914_053405_copy_1280x960.jpg 
Andrew

Living and learning in NZ
Hoping to reach cognitive and emotional maturity before my children do.
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paulbarrette
Barrett wrote:
Hi Paul, that's looks in great condition. 
The handles are just bare wire, the tape on that one suggests someone carried it a little further than their fingers were comfortable with. 
Is the tank magnetic? The two stamped 4M's I have have non magnetic Everdur tanks,  one has the burners like yours and the other has complete cast iron burners which isn't the norm for a 4m.
The 4's became a little bit of a rabbit hole for me when I found a couple of unstamped model # cased 4k's with cast iron burners and Everdur tanks,  appears NZ got a few unusual models.
These are the two stamped 4M's just to sure the burner difference. 
They're great stoves and you'll enjoy it.
20200914_053405_copy_1280x960.jpg 


Hi Andrew
The tank is magnetic.  Maybe the tank is not original?  Thanks for posting those pics.  It makes me want to restore it now 😀

Pb
Paul Barrette
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grunts
looks like it is in rough shape.
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Bo Bishop
Looks like a fun project!  Keep us all posted.
L.G.Bishop
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Barrett
Paul, your tank is what is excepted as the norm, mine are the odd ones lol
Andrew

Living and learning in NZ
Hoping to reach cognitive and emotional maturity before my children do.
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paulbarrette
I took it outside to fire it up.  Works well!  No pain like my old easy lite.  I noticed there is a slight drip on the fuel cap.  It is the type with the screw in it.  Can it be serviced?  I have never seen that type before.

Thanks
Pb
Paul Barrette
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grunts
do you get blue flames or yellow flames?
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paulbarrette
[image] 

Starts off yellow, then goes blue and I switch the lever.  It is hard to tell in the day light but it looks like it is burning correctly.  Nice blue.

Pb
Paul Barrette
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paulbarrette
grunts wrote:
looks like it is in rough shape.


Dirty, and some ugly rust inside but should be a good project.

Pb
Paul Barrette
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Gunhippie
Paul--The three-piece cap is easy to repair. Screw the cap down firmly. Now find a standard screwdriver that fits the screw well--this will prevent damage to screw and paint. Insert driver and give it a sharp twist--really snap--to break the screw loose. Remove the screw, unscrew the cap. Take the insert w/gasket out and put it on something flameproof--I use a firebrick. Heat it with a propane plumber's torch until the gasket is fully burned and then drop it in a bucket of water while still very hot. Most or all of the gasket should come right out, if any is left. carefully scrape it out with a jeweler's screwdriver.

You can buy a new flat gasket from OCP or use an  o-ring from the hardware store. #112 is the size, Buna or Viton are fine for our purposes. DO NOT use a silicone o-ring or gasket--they'll swell and disintegrate with fuel contact. Personally, I prefer the o-ring as it seals with less force. Put the ring in the insert--a little silicone grease or spray helps--then put the insert on the fuel bung of the tank. Screw the cap over it and insert and tighten the screw.

Should take about 5 minutes, not counting the run to the store.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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paulbarrette
Gunhippie wrote:
Paul--The three-piece cap is easy to repair. Screw the cap down firmly. Now find a standard screwdriver that fits the screw well--this will prevent damage to screw and paint. Insert driver and give it a sharp twist--really snap--to break the screw loose. Remove the screw, unscrew the cap. Take the insert w/gasket out and put it on something flameproof--I use a firebrick. Heat it with a propane plumber's torch until the gasket is fully burned and then drop it in a bucket of water while still very hot. Most or all of the gasket should come right out, if any is left. carefully scrape it out with a jeweler's screwdriver.

You can buy a new flat gasket from OCP or use an  o-ring from the hardware store. #112 is the size, Buna or Viton are fine for our purposes. DO NOT use a silicone o-ring or gasket--they'll swell and disintegrate with fuel contact. Personally, I prefer the o-ring as it seals with less force. Put the ring in the insert--a little silicone grease or spray helps--then put the insert on the fuel bung of the tank. Screw the cap over it and insert and tighten the screw.

Should take about 5 minutes, not counting the run to the store.


Thanks the the detailed answer!  I never thought of burning the old one out.   I ordered a few but I will try orings in the mean time.

Thanks again

Pb
Paul Barrette
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Gunhippie
It's the single-piece caps that are a PITA. Changing the gasket on those requires various sharp pointed tools, copious cursing and abundant bloodshed.

I don't know what kind of rubber Coleman used for the gaskets, but it doesn't last. I just assume that any cap gasket is toast and replace them as a matter of course.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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paulbarrette
Gunhippie wrote:
It's the single-piece caps that are a PITA. Changing the gasket on those requires various sharp pointed tools, copious cursing and abundant bloodshed.

I don't know what kind of rubber Coleman used for the gaskets, but it doesn't last. I just assume that any cap gasket is toast and replace them as a matter of course.


Good idea.  I will change them in my two new acquisitions.  Guaranteed one will fail while I am camping.

Pb
Paul Barrette
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Gunhippie
It's funny, but in Boy Scouts we were taught that the screw had to be tightened after installing the cap to tighten the gasket down. It never had any affect on a leaking gasket, but we didn't question the wisdom of our seniors until many years later.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
paulbarrette
Gunhippie wrote:
Paul--The three-piece cap is easy to repair. Screw the cap down firmly. Now find a standard screwdriver that fits the screw well--this will prevent damage to screw and paint. Insert driver and give it a sharp twist--really snap--to break the screw loose. Remove the screw, unscrew the cap. Take the insert w/gasket out and put it on something flameproof--I use a firebrick. Heat it with a propane plumber's torch until the gasket is fully burned and then drop it in a bucket of water while still very hot. Most or all of the gasket should come right out, if any is left. carefully scrape it out with a jeweler's screwdriver.

You can buy a new flat gasket from OCP or use an  o-ring from the hardware store. #112 is the size, Buna or Viton are fine for our purposes. DO NOT use a silicone o-ring or gasket--they'll swell and disintegrate with fuel contact. Personally, I prefer the o-ring as it seals with less force. Put the ring in the insert--a little silicone grease or spray helps--then put the insert on the fuel bung of the tank. Screw the cap over it and insert and tighten the screw.

Should take about 5 minutes, not counting the run to the store.


+1 on this!  Worked like a charm.

Thanks
Paul Barrette
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Bo Bishop
Paul,  Thanks for sharing the o-ring size for gas caps!I can't tell you the hundreds of sizes I have that DIDN'T work!  That info is now in my repair kit and will come in handy for those I meet in the field who encounter leaky caps.
L.G.Bishop
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paulbarrette
Bo Bishop wrote:
Paul,  Thanks for sharing the o-ring size for gas caps!I can't tell you the hundreds of sizes I have that DIDN'T work!  That info is now in my repair kit and will come in handy for those I meet in the field who encounter leaky caps.


That was all gunhippie.

Pb
Paul Barrette
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