200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

Paul Aslanides
Hi All.    New chap here - Paul,  in Melbourne, Australia.
I have put a new pump cup into my Coleman 500 Speed Master Stove.  Plenty of pressure now, but only in the pump tube. So I assume the check valve is stuck closed, as it will not pump air at all.
    Would someone kindly advise me on how to remove the air stem and the check valve ?
     Is it possible to rebuild the check valve ?   Or buy a new one ?   Does the valve take one of those little rubber 'pips',  maybe 4 m/m or 4.5 m/m  diameter ?
      A sticker underneath reads 500 - 289.   The date stamp is hard to read, maybe C 38  or C 58.
Thank You.
Paul  Aslanides.
Paul  A.
Quote
hikerduane
Welcome Paul.
Air stem will unscrew.  Can try squirting some carb cleaner, acetone etc. down the pump tube then to see if gummed up old fuel is preventing the ball bearing in the C/V to move/stuck or a obstacle down there.  You could buy a C/V tool or try to make one.
Duane
Duane-All seasons, year round backpacker and camper.  So many stoves and lanterns, who's counting.
Quote
arizonacamper
Okay, I got to ask the dumb question. Are you opening the air stem? When you're trying to pump up Pressure And welcome from Southern, Arizona.
Shawn 
Owner of Copper State Diesel And Automotive. See my facebook page.

Lanterns are like tools. 
You can not have too many unless your wife says so!!

Gas is what you use for washing parts diesel is for making power!

Coleman blues 243 #147
Coleman 275 appreciation #74
Milspec syndicate #39

Looking for any lanterns or stoves dated 5/63 or 1/72
Quote
Newfie
If it has a C as part of the date it'll be a 1938. That's one of the first ones made. It's a Canadian made stove, correct?

Post some pics if you get the chance. I'd love to see it.

And welcome from Western Canada (Victoria, British Columbia to be exact).
Shane Looking for the following Canadian birthday lanterns or lamps: 2-32, 6-34,
Quote
SteveRetherford
here is a link to original owners manual , this should help you .

http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/resources/scans/500_1.htm
[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
Quote
Paul Aslanides
Gentlemen - thanks for the warm welcome, and your kindly assistance.
Yes, it's  definitely  C 38   made in Canada.  I have had no success in uploading photos.  And yes,  I've printed off the owner's manual, two pages.
Yes, I was trying to pump with the air stem closed !  All my other stoves and lanterns do not have this extra device.  It was a surprise to find that the stove uses a good old fashioned ball check valve , or pressure relief valve, outside of an old  automobile, or somesuch old machinery, and no little coil spring is necessary to keep the ball on its seat. The check valve is  O.K.  Dunk test proves no leaks from pump or filler cap.
Further searching has wised me up to the  workings of the  air stem , the check valve and the tools, not that I need the removal tool now.
I will flush out the font, reassemble the top (the plate is a bit rusty) and fire it up next week.  Under pressure, some old fuel came out the end of the feeder tube.
So it's probably good to go.  I must confess that I bought a new repair kit, Aust$15, for a recent model Coleman lantern, took off the modern cup and fitted it to the older Coleman.  It works  beautifully.  Wish I could buy some of those modern cups (bucket washers) without having to buy the full repair kit....
    Again,  many thanks to you, one and all,  for your help.  Cheers.  Paul. 
Paul  A.
Quote
BSAGuy
G'day and welcome here, Paul.  As you have quickly seen, there is a wealth of knowledge here and everyone is quite willing to share and help.  Good luck with getting your stove running.
- Courtenay
Be Prepared
Quote
arizonacamper
You can get the leather pump cups for that model stove from our sponsor here. They're very inexpensive.
Shawn 
Owner of Copper State Diesel And Automotive. See my facebook page.

Lanterns are like tools. 
You can not have too many unless your wife says so!!

Gas is what you use for washing parts diesel is for making power!

Coleman blues 243 #147
Coleman 275 appreciation #74
Milspec syndicate #39

Looking for any lanterns or stoves dated 5/63 or 1/72
Quote
74HARLEY
Welcome from Washington! You have an awesome stove there.
Joe
looking for 200a 11-56,9-77,2-65 Coleman 275 appreciation syndicate member #0004 ICCC #1262
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #19
Frank appreciation syndicate member #9
Quote
poppa
Welcome from Alabama and good luck on your stove.                         poppa
Quote
Tigerfans2
If you bought the neoprene cup toss it and get a leather one.
Coleman Slant Saver #58
Coleman Quick Lite Crew #8
Coleman Blues 243's #16
Quote
austin65uri
Glad you got it running and welcome from Hawaii!
Bill.
ICCC#1601
Quote
Gunhippie
A 500 is one excellent stove! Welcome to the forum!

The neoprene pump cups are fine until they aren't. They wear out and must be replaced, unlike the leather cups which can almost always be revived with just a little oil.

Not that is will probably be a problem in Oz, but the neoprene cups also don't perform well at extreme low temperatures.

So, I take it your "other stoves and lanterns" are Euro, without the positive shut-off air-stem?
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
Scouterjan
G Day cobber. I also have a C 38. Great stoves. Glad you figured it out.  I use Photoresizer to change the size of my photos so I can post them here. I also in BC Canada
Jan


Mitakiuye Oyasin " All My Relations"
Quote
Chucker
Welcome to the forum Paul, from a bloke from Michigan, U.S.A. Plenty of other mates from Oz aboard here and there. They will probably make themselves known in a bit. 

Glad you have it running! I own too many of those but they are so robust and durable - can't imagine not owning one for camping now. 
Chuck
"...we also glory in our sufferings, because we know that suffering produces perseverance; perseverance, character; and character, hope" Romans 5:3-4
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
Quote
Paul Aslanides
Hi All.  Thanks for your informative responses.  I'm still struggling to navigate this forum/site.  Wrote yesterday, but lost the lot after some distraction.
I fired up the 500 yesterday - gave it time to warm up,  Orange flames with plenty of black soot,  some petrol leaking from where the generator tube enters the  burner casting. This leak eventually stopped.  But no, it would not go to a blue flame, so I let it cool down then did the dunk test into a bucket of  water and lo! a slow air leak from under the  air baffle.  I would guess that it is clearly not vaporising the petrol. No doubt after 82 years, this C 38 is due for a strip down and a refurbish. Plus the new neoprene cup works funny, i.e. pressure against the pull-back, or vacuum behind, but not on every stroke.  So I will soon be ordering leather cups, etc, from our sponsor.  Can we still obtain new generator mesh,  or is there a way to clean and recover the old one ?  I think this matter has been covered here earlier.
     All my other items are kerosene burners,  ( Tilley,  Austramax,  Handi, Solex, Companion, etc. ) and don't have the  threaded air stem gadget that is curious to Coleman.  The Austrmax being the most reliable of all.
     I was badly burnt by petrol (gasoline) years ago and am very wary of messing with the stuff.  Even so, I still insist on pre-mixing oil and petrol in a can before topping up the tanks of my two-stroke motorcycles. Outside, in the open. 
     Oh, and  Harley74 - I fondly remember back in 1965 getting a ride on  the buddy seat of a '37  10/12 ( 1937 Harley 74 cu.in.). We cruised past the  front of the Auckland War Memorial on the hill, overlooking the bay, with Rangitoto in the background, while tourists stood agape , on one of those fine, rare days when the world stood still.
Oh Lordy, unforgetable.  Cheers, Paul. 
Paul  A.
Quote
Cottage_hill_bill
Paul,  If you haven't already, check in on the Classic Camp Stoves site. There are several Aussies on it and possibly one near you who could lend a hand. Parts for your stove are easily ordered from Old Coleman Parts, link in the banner at the top of the page. You will most likely need to replace the fuel cap gasket. Someone in the classified section here was advertising 500 generators. Also get a leather pump gasket from OCP when you order the fuel cap gasket.

Cheers,
Reese
Reese
North West Florida

Reese’s Law of Thermodynamics:  At temperatures below incandescence hot metal looks exactly like cold metal.

Quote
Paul Aslanides
Thanks, Reese.   Much appreciated.  Will do.
Cheers.
Paul  A.
Quote
Majicwrench
I trust you are moving the lever under the burner to "Light" before lighting stove, and leaving it there for a good minute??

IF you are getting yellow flames and soot stove is flooded. Once flooded, it takes forever to clean up enough to get nice blue flames.
Keith
Quote
Paul Aslanides
Yes, thanks.  Lever  to 'Light" for starting.  Orange flames, sooty smoke, spasmodic fuel supply and goes out easily. Will strip & clean the stove, & fit new parts where ness.
Cheers.  Paul. 
Paul  A.
Quote
scl
welcome, i recently got 2 green ones i am working on. i will paint the grates back to their original black.
Quote
Gunhippie
Sounds like it's time to do a full tear-down and rebuild on that 500! In addition to that leak, you probably have critters in your Bunsen (not a euphemism nor insult, honest mate!). I use an ultrasound cleaner to get stuff out of there, but others report success with hydrogen peroxide.

Use lots of penetrating oil of your choice on every threaded part--especially the screws that hold the burner assembly together and those that secure it to the fount. Let sit for several days, preferably in the hot sun. If you encounter resistance to unscrewing them, use heat on the screws where they thread into things (be sure the tank/fount is empty and sealed first or better yet, empty it, let it dry out and fill with water). More penetrating oil, more patience and more heat will eventually get them out. Then replace them with brass or stainless screws so they don't freeze in place again. You might have to order screws--I think OCP stocks them--as they are ASE, not metric.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
HercL4D2
HercL4D2
Nov 23, 2019
Windows has a program called Paint in the accessories folder. This is the path>>>Start>>>All Programs>>> Accessories>>>Paint>>>save a photo of your pictures on your Computer in the pictures folder under libraries. Now you need to make a copy of each picture and save it in the same picture folder. When you open Paint go to top left and click the Blue tab left of the Home tab and Click on Open, double click the copy and it will open in Paint. Next step is to click on Image just below the Home tab then Resize >>> Pixels >>> change to 800 >>> Vertical will auto adjust then click ok >>> save as Jpeg and you can post that picture in this forum.
Quote
Gunhippie
Mike wrote:


Silver.

Mike.


Ditto. Look closely and you'll probably see a scrap or two of the original silver paint. VHT or Rust-Oleum 2,000F Flat Silver is a great match, and holds up very well.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
Paul Aslanides
The 'Burn / Light "  lever  on my C 38  has two bends - no loops.  The first bend is  30 degrees, approx, downwards, where it pokes through the hole in the support ring.
The second bend is 90 degrees upwards so that the last 3/4 inches of the lever is very close to 45 degrees upwards from the table or bench on which the stove is sitting, i.e. 45 degrees from the horizontal, according to my Speedsquare.  So, yes, I guess it's an L shaped lever.  And yes, there's a combination of stuff going on, age related faults, like me. General wear and tear.
The new parts will be ordered next week.  I expect it may be ready to fire up in month or two if all goes well. Cheers.
Paul  A.
Quote
Paul Aslanides
Many thanks, gentlemen, for your help and advice.  I finally have the Canadian C 38 model 500 stove running o.k. 
The fuel had been squirting out of the jet at an angle, i.e. not straight ahead.  The pricker wire was o.k., but a more thorough cleanout of the generator tube and coil, plus some  light emery paper wrapped around a wire or wooden rod carefully cleaned up the inside of the generator and the control valve housing.  There must have been some obstruction behind the jet which was deflecting the flow into the mixing chamber.  It's not quite 100 % yet, as it requires frequent pumping, so I'll do a dunk test to check for a leaky valve.
    I've cut down a tin lid from an old Vegemite (R) jar, linished to size, to sit under the generator, and use that as a preheater.  It measures 57 m/m dia. x 3.5 m/m wall height, gives a volume of approx 9 mls. It sits on top of the burner, heats up the generator.  Pushed aside when it's empty. Works a treat. No flare ups and smooth starting.  Cheers from Melbourne. Firing 500.jpg  Firing 500 05 08 2020.jpg 
Paul  A.
Quote
Gasman64
G'day, Paul, good to see you back; looks like you've been busy.  That stove, and the flames from it, look good.
Steve
ICCC #1012




Quote
Coldwaterpaddler
After you get it lit and warmed up are you moving the wire lever from the Light to the Burn position? That might explain it needing more pumping. 
Stovie-Steve
"Don't let the weather run your life" - Steve
The Coleman Blues - #95
Quote
GeorgiaBoy
Welcome and great good job on that stove.
ICCC Member #973 Richard Leyva - Lilburn,Ga
 Psalm 119:105 "Thy word is a lamp unto my feet, And a light unto my path." 
" The Older I Get the Better I Was "
Quote
Chucker
Doesn't your fuel/air circuit work? I don't understand the need for a pre-heat unless it's just something you do to get it going faster. 

If it requires frequent pumping I'd look at the burn lever like Steve says above or the fuel cap gasket. Even new gaskets can twist a bit sometimes and leak.
Chuck
"...we also glory in our sufferings, because we know that suffering produces perseverance; perseverance, character; and character, hope" Romans 5:3-4
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
Quote
Smudge
Welcome.
I also had a start-up problem with my 1953 model 500 stove. It always required preheating.
I found that the opening at the bottom of the fuel/air tube was too large. There was noticeable wiggle of the rod in the opening. So, I sanded the bottom surface of the tube and added a bead of solder. Then sanded the bead flat, while leaving enough solder. I used a small manual hand held drill with a bit the same size as the rod and drilled a new opening through the solder, being very careful to center the opening. Now the stove starts up perfectly without preheating.
"If all the beasts were gone, men would die from a great loneliness of spirit, for whatever happens to the beasts,
also happens to the man. Whatever befalls the Earth, befalls the sons of the Earth.” - Chief Seattle

ICCC # 1726  -  Bernz0matiC Appreciation Club #057
Perfection Heater Collectors #6
Quote
Gunhippie
My 500 and 500A start perfectly using the normal pre-heat circuit every time.

I do find that I need to let the stove warm up for a couple of minutes before opening it up all the way or the flames will blow off the burner. That CI takes some warming, but once it's good and hot, it will torch or simmer forever.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
Smudge
I agree, that stove should start on the "light" position without external preheating. I struggled with mine on and off for a couple of years before I figured out that the opening, at the bottom of my f/a tube, was too large. I just wonder how it got that way, Factory defect? or maybe a previous owner enlarged it for some misguided reason. Who knows?
"If all the beasts were gone, men would die from a great loneliness of spirit, for whatever happens to the beasts,
also happens to the man. Whatever befalls the Earth, befalls the sons of the Earth.” - Chief Seattle

ICCC # 1726  -  Bernz0matiC Appreciation Club #057
Perfection Heater Collectors #6
Quote
pagrey
Considering that is the oldest 500 ever made and your description of the lever is different from anything else I've ever seen it would be nice to see a picture of it. I have a few 500A stoves and a 1939 500 and really like these stoves. More pictures would be really great, do you have the grill?
Paul
Quote
Eames85
Hi all  new member  
Great thread 
I also have a coleman 500 289 believe it to be a 1942  its in a pot and the lid is a pan with a strap on the pot for carrying 
After a long while I have managed to got it fired up  but the flame is jumping up every few seconds  and sergestions?
Quote
Chucker
Hello Alan and welcome to the forum. . 

It could be a dirty generator, partially plugged gen orifice, or debris/varnish in the fount on the fuel tube orifice. Others things could be happening as well. 

FYI, your issue could be better addressed if you start a new thread in this section and include pictures, if possible. 
Chuck
"...we also glory in our sufferings, because we know that suffering produces perseverance; perseverance, character; and character, hope" Romans 5:3-4
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
Quote
ThosKiwi
There is a very good article on the early development of the 500 Speedmaster by Toronto and Wichita Coleman factories.
HERE
ThomasL:-Currently on the lookout for a Canadian(Read Toronto): L227or228 - Big Hat and 249
Quote


...
...
Welcome to the Coleman Collectors Forum, an international forum of Coleman enthusiast and collectors, as such people from all over the world come here to read about Coleman collecting, repair, and to meet and make friends. The pages contained here are intended for the use of amateur collectors and people interested in Coleman collecting, restoration and repair as a hobby. It goes without saying to refrain from political posts, personal attacks and inflammatory posts.

Please note, all postings are the personal opinions of the members posting, the owner, administrators and moderators of the forum do not warrant the accuracy of posted information or endorse the safety of such.