200A and 202 reproduction
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Redneck17
Got a pair of 220F that have me puzzled. Complete tear down and thorough cleaning. I've replaced the generator, eccentric block and cleaning lever on one. New pump cups on both
Both pull the same trick. Fuel will flow for 3-5 seconds and shut off. Doesn't seem to matter what I do with the fuel valve or cleaning lever.
Anybody else run into this? How did you fix it?
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zoomkat

 "Complete tear down and thorough cleaning."

A somewhat common occurrence is incorrectly installing the fuel control rod spring. Did you take apart the fuel pickup assembly?

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Banjoman
I just had the same with a pair of 228j’s. After 3 tear downs and reassembles  they run fine now. Really don’t know what I did but they’re running now
darrell
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RobSchroff
Did you remove the valve and fuel-air assembly from the lantern base (fount)? If not, your lanterns may be nice and clean and operating properly from the valve and up, but starving for fuel because there is some junk built-up on the fuel-air assembly.  
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Majicwrench
Spin the tip cleaner!! That's what it is for, by far the easiest place for a lantern to plug is the tip. 

So, once fuel flows for a few seconds then quits, how do you get it going again?? More pump?? 
Keith
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hikerduane
Man, the only time I have replaced parts is if they leaked.  Usually add graphite packing if able, to stop leaks around the valve shaft.
Duane
Duane-All seasons, year round backpacker and camper.  So many stoves who's counting.
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Redneck17
zoomkat wrote:

 "Complete tear down and thorough cleaning."

A somewhat common occurrence is incorrectly installing the fuel control rod spring. Did you take apart the fuel pickup assembly?



I did
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Redneck17
Majicwrench wrote:
Spin the tip cleaner!! That's what it is for, by far the easiest place for a lantern to plug is the tip. 

So, once fuel flows for a few seconds then quits, how do you get it going again?? More pump?? 


No flow after it stops. 
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Redneck17
RobSchroff wrote:
Did you remove the valve and fuel-air assembly from the lantern base (fount)? If not, your lanterns may be nice and clean and operating properly from the valve and up, but starving for fuel because there is some junk built-up on the fuel-air assembly.  


Yes. Gave both both assemblies a vinegar bath 
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zoomkat
"I did"

Then it might be worthwhile to check to ensure the fuel control rod spring is under the collar on the fuel control instead of on top. An incorrectly installed spring will keep the lantern in the "start" mode. The below pictures show how the fuel control rod and fuel control valve work together.

fuel valve2.jpg  

fuel tube2.jpg 
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pagrey
Redneck17 wrote:


No flow after it stops. 


Is there still pressure in the fount?

Trying to find out if the fount is bleeding pressure or if the outlet is clogged. Both of these things can be described as no flow after it stops but are very different fixes.
Paul
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Majicwrench

"No flow after it stops"   

Then what?? How do you get it going again?? How you get it lit again (even for 3 seconds) would be a great clue as to what is amiss.

 

 And again, the easiest, most common place for lantern to plug is the tip...that is why it came with a tip cleaner!!  Spin it, and again!  Can you see   wire stick thru jet?

Keith
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grob
I had a hard time with my 228B getting it lit. I got it back together today for the 3rd time and I was looking under a loop at the gas tips on a brass and a nickle genny with the air tube out of the way. The needle on one was not retracting out of the jet hole enough to allow it to get enough fuel to lite. It was to long in other words. I found a tiny washer in some electronic parts and put it between the fuel tip and tube to make it a bit longer and it is running now. The other needle had been damaged and was to short. Would be worth looking at the needle in the gas tip as it goes up and down. If you want to see the whole odyssey, the blog is here under this heading, Gary

Can't get a 228B fired. Any ideas?

Watch me paste this pathetic palooka with a powerful paralyzing perfect pachyderms percussion pitch.
- Bugs

Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
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Tigerfans2
Step one, lose the generator
.......
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zoomkat
"I've replaced the generator, eccentric block and cleaning lever on one."

Getting confusing on which model of lantern you are having problems with. That being said, why did you work on the eccentric block and cleaning lever? Is the eccentric block correct for the lantern/generator? Is the eccentric block correctly orientated in the fuel valve assembly? Miss installation of the eccentric block and cleaning lever dring installation  can bend the tip of the cleaning lever (been there, done that), resulting some of the issues you may be experiencing. If the cleaning lever tip gets bent inward, the pricker rod may move little or not all when the cleaning lever is rotated. Normally the lantern should dim and brighten as the cleaning lever is rotated.
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Hot Diggity
@zoomkat is onto something here.  I think the cleaner rod has missed the hole or the slot in the eccentric block and/or is resting above it.  This effectively makes it longer, then when pressure is applied it's enough to push the tip cleaner into the tip and block it as long as the pressure remains.

That's why I have to use a forceps to guide the generator cleaner rod into place in the eccentric block hole and then rotate it down into the valve assembly where I can't wiggle it out of place again before I tighten the generator nut down.
KIMG1806.jpg  This is how i steer the generator into place around the mantles on my kerosene 220's.  It's an old Lisle carburetor tool, but you can do the same with a tweezers.
_20171001_111622.jpg
eCCENTRIC BLOCK.jpg  The prime suspect.
Chuck, 3/61, ICCC 1689
Milspec Syndicate #0510
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0510
Tinker, Toy maker, Trash picker
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grob
I put a tiny washer between the gas tip and the tube on the T44DL Nickel genny on the left. The needle was not retracting far enough to supply the right amount of fuel to lite. This is on a 1936 Coleman 228B. Regular brass genny on the right. Check the movement of the needle through the gas tip with the air tube turned around or removed. Gar

Also, there are different length eccentric blocks. It's not likely they need replaced. I would try the one that came with it.

Chuck, good idea... pair of forceps would work too.

[nic_brs_gens-86658867] 
Watch me paste this pathetic palooka with a powerful paralyzing perfect pachyderms percussion pitch.
- Bugs

Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
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zoomkat
"That's why I have to use a forceps to guide the generator cleaner rod into place in the eccentric block hole and then rotate it down into the valve assembly where I can't wiggle it out of place again before I tighten the generator nut down."

I do pretty much the same thing using a bobby pin. I clip it on the pricker rod bottom area to help to keep the pricker rod and spring from falling out, and helps control and rotate the rod to get the hook into the eccentric block hole. It helps reduce fumble finger aggravation. 
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Gand28
I think I’d trim the wire length rather than trust a washer. But I’ve never seen a wire that was too long. Something is amiss somewhere. 
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
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HercL4D2
Go here and get a new needle. This is the one that fits your lantern. I also make my own and it is simple to do. http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1
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grob
Greg, Thought about that, but trim how much accurately and if to much, well gennys are $13 to $15 around here. Washer is free, or almost and can be modified (sand it thinner). It works, after all the work it took to figure out WTH. Seems weird to me too, but there is not much mechanically going on.
Gar

"I think I’d trim the wire length rather than trust a washer. But I’ve never seen a wire that was too long. Something is amiss somewhere". 
 
 
Watch me paste this pathetic palooka with a powerful paralyzing perfect pachyderms percussion pitch.
- Bugs

Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
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zoomkat
"trim how much accurately and if to much"

If I was making a pricker rod, for the pricker itself I would assemble the generator on the fuel valve assembly, turn the cleaning lever up, and snip (or bend) the pricker as close to the orifice hole as possible. Then take the rpicker rod out and make the final pricker trim based on how much was still sticking out of the orifice hole. As to this situation, something in the generator operating section has been modified, damaged, or changed since it came from the factory.  
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Gand28
I’d keep taking a little off until it worked. 
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
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kw12330
Why did you replace the e-block? and is the pricker rod hooked up right if it is not it will not spin up and down making impossible to clear the tip.

Keith W  

ICCC#1599
looking for lanterns 1/66 1/87 7/94 BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #011
The Coleman Blues 243's #112   MilSpec Syndicate #1966
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #168  Sears Collector Club #1966 
Canadian Blues Syndicate#49,Coleman Slant Saver#1966

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