200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.
joecarquest
This is my current swap meet find. By looking on the bottom it's a first year 220B. Somebody painted it silver so I have to figure how to get the paint off. I was thinking about getting the ventilator powder coated was wondering your thoughts? I went on line to find a different one no luck. Any thoughts or ideas about restoring would be appreciated. Thanks
20190902_1002511.jpg  20190901_1927231.jpg  20190901_193032_0012.jpg  20190902_1004041.jpg  20190902_1007091.jpg
Joe
Quote
SteveRetherford
you need porcelain on a vent , powder coat will melt n burn off .
[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
Quote
OregonMichael
Nice score, Joe!  Looks like it's nice and clean.  I'll echo what Steve said....powder coating won't withstand the heat that the vent will have to endure.  To have new porcelain enamel, you can send it to IPE (Independence Porcelain Enamel) and Jeff will do it for you.  Or, wait it out on that auction site and one will probably show up.  You might also post a WTB thread here in the classifieds
Quote
Rfieldbuilds
My personal opinion on collectible lanterns is that I would rather have damaged original porcelain than a recoated vent. A recoated vent simply will not look as good as the original.
I know many are happy with the IPE quality, and I think for  a user lantern or a display piece it is a fine option. One thing I promise is that a recoated piece will not look original if you look at it closely.  Yep, I opened the worm can. 
Randy
QL #15
Slant Saver #59 and a few others too. 
Quote
scl
that and the 242nl are colemans finest lanterns in my opinion.
Quote
grob
Joe, if the bottom of the fount looks like a bad silver paint job, I think this was a rust proof coating they put on it, as the bottom of the fount is steel. Go figure! The bottom of my 228B 1936 is funky enough to obscure the sunshine logo, so don't remove it. You would think they would make the whole fount out of brass, especially the bottom which is where the most rust would accumulate!!! If you look inside, you might see rust. A few years later they stopped putting a model indication anywhere on the rest of the Bs. I like the winged fuel cap.
Anyway, nice find, Gary

[cole_228b_6s-80089457]
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
joecarquest
Thanks for the help. The vent has silver spray paint on it. Would dipping
it in vinegar be a problem for the porcelain?
Joe
Quote
Colemannut
joecarquest wrote:
Thanks for the help. The vent has silver spray paint on it. Would dipping
it in vinegar be a problem for the porcelain?


You can use spray on paint remover and it will not hurt the porcelain on the vent.
Quote
grob
I think that the porcelain is pretty tough. You could try lacquer thinner in a small test spot. I just saw the silver paint on the vent holes... might be covering rust with high temp silver, so I guess it is decision time.
Gar


Here is a link to the early 220B at the bottom of the page:
https://terry-marsh.com/coleman-us-lanterns-1920-1930/

Here is my recently finished diagram of 220/228 operation using a '36 B model:
(Let me know of any corrections, additions, or deletions that should be made).

[fuel_valv_fa_diagxs-16399342] 
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
joecarquest
Did Coleman solder other parts besides the fount to prevent corrosion.
Like this collar maybe. It is thicker than most collars I have dealt with
Joe
Quote
RobSchroff
There is something (could be vinegar or citric acid or ......) that will cause porcelain to become "hazy"...permanently....  I would try boiling it (submerging it in boiling water for a few minutes will likely soften the paint, allowing it to be rubbed off), or try oven cleaner spray (contains lye) or paint stripper as mentioned above.   The oven cleaner and paint stripper will burn your skin, so wear gloves.   Maybe try boiling it first...
Quote
Gunhippie
The fount base, collar and frame should be hot-dipped in tin. Unfortunately, tin is subject to tin pest, which cases it to go away after a few decades. There will be some drips and runs remaining, but the general coating is likely gone. Elbow grease and 4-0 steel wool are your best bet for cleaning the tin-coated parts up. I don't like to use a polish like Mother's on the frame, as it leaves a residue--wax?--that stinks badly when the lantern is lit for the first few hours, and can leave a whitish deposit. Mother's Mag and aluminum polish is great for the fount and collar.

Don't use any kind of acid on the vent, including vinegar!  Acids will fog the vent, leaving it dull and dead-looking. They also suck at removing paint.

No wax of any kind on the vent, either. It can cause the vent porcelain to craze with heat.

Caustic is the way to remove paint, my favorite being lye in hot water. Spray-on oven cleaner is also effective, as is automatic dish washer detergent, as both are mostly lye. Just be careful you don't dissolve yourself.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
Colemannut
This 319 was completely covered in brush on high temp silver paint. I used the gel spray on paint stripper from Walmart on the whole lantern! It won’t hurt anything even the porcelain on vents. I have done this many times so take my word for it! 556892A9-071C-482B-B365-ABE97C692768.jpeg 4907E5F4-8B47-4CFD-8708-8F0C1B1F5FCA.jpeg 
Quote
joecarquest
I'll go to Walmart and get the stripper
Joe
Quote
sourgasjohn
You should be able to wipe off the paint with either lacquer thinner or acetone on a rag  or 0000 steel wool, neither solvent will hurt the porcelain. Timm, I had never heard of tin pest so googled it. Wikipedia has some interesting info on it, also tin whiskers!
Quote
joecarquest
I had never heard of tin pest either. I did not know they used tin dip. How long was that tin dip used?
Joe
Quote
Gunhippie
The hot-dip tin was used for a few years--the USFS 327s and early 220/8B are what comes to mind. Drips and runs distinguish it. Fount bases were hot-dipped for quite a while, obscuring many a date stamp.

Tin electroplating was used later, through the 220/8D. That stuff really suffered from the dreaded pest.

E and later--for a while--were bright galvanized--zinc electroplated. Other platings followed.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
joecarquest
I had some oven cleaner at home. I couldn't tell the vent was blue underneath until cleaned.
You can see the zink on the collar and where the tin pest worked.
I'm not happy with the fount or frame yet so I'm going to get paint stripper tomorrow.  
Joe
Quote
Gunhippie
It's looking good for its age!

What's under the missing tin is just good ol' US steel. You can wax the collar, but the frame gets too hot. For the most part, it looks like you're there. Some good metal polish (NOT rouge!) and a very soft, slow buffing wheel on the fount, followed by wax of choice and you'll have it.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
grob
Joe, I used Meguiare's Mirror Glaze chrome polish on the fount and 000 and 0000 steel wool and a terry cloth final. Still have some spotting like yours, but looks pretty good. Not a mirror shine though. Used the same on the collar and frame with #1 and 000 steel wool after a hot 50/50 vinegar bath. Not saying Mirror Glaze is the best, it's just what I have. I have not tried Mothers yet. Meguiare's paint cleaner and polish has been recommended for painted founts. Car needs it too.

Colemannut, nice job on the 319. Is that an Arc lantern?

Timm, why not rouge? I have a tube and it is on my larger buffing wheel. Might be able to wash it. I have a small dremel buffing wheel for details.

[228b_12s-61938482] 
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
Colemannut
E6BA9620-19EC-470E-A92A-5E7FC4327C45.jpeg Some 220/228B’s had nickel plating on the base rest! So you can’t say all are tin dipped!
Quote
joecarquest
If mine comes out have as good as those I'll be happy
Joe
Quote
joecarquest

It's almost done. Some day I will get a buffing wheel and realy polish it.
I need a good lantern for surf fishing. I was thinking this one. But I'll never
find another one like it again.
Thanks for the help and advice. 

Joe
Quote
grob
Joe, that is really looking FAB. Belongs with a Model A. I thought it would take a long time and money to find some nickel, much less a '36, but there it was a couple months ago and I might get another 220B soon. Gar
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
joecarquest
Grob we will see who finds one first.
Joe
Quote
grob
I want to take a photo of my 228B and my 1937 3H stove with a 1937 Buick Straight 8 Coupe outside of the local whiskey distillery. It's like their mascot. I missed a painted 242C for $20 yesterday  >:*\
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
joecarquest
grob here's mine. Not in very good condition though. Still works.
Joe
Quote
grob
Oh Joe, your're just a user! Good one to have, so you don't mess up the good ones. I like it. I might strip the fount on on a funky one, as i like the brass. I have a line on 2 nickel bottoms, but I need to sell something first and time is a wastin'.
Gar
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
Gunhippie
Where's the pic? What's stopping you?

My painted 242C is the opposite--good paint, bad vent.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
grob
OK torture me with the one that got away.
242C 47f.jpg 
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
joecarquest
Grob I don't understand why you have to sell something first.
Joe
Quote
grob
Joe, I got it. It is a Feb. 1935 220B for $25. This is a sales pic, as I have not taken any pics yet. A little beat up, but nice. Fuel in it and it might just fire up. The winged fuel cap is not pristine and just a plain globe. I might get a sunshine mask and sandblast a logo into it. Vent just has one small chip near the top. How cool can it get man?  Also came with a case that will accommodate my 228s vent. Gar

[220b_35_fs1-60459967] 
[220b_35_fs3-44648211] 
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
joecarquest
That's awesome. Great about the case too. Good deal for 25 dollars.
Where do you get a sunshine mask? How do you sandblast it on to a globe?
I'm thinking about ordering a globe from Fred Kuntz for my 220b.
I got this 200a Sunday for 5 dollars dated 2-1956. I'm tying to decide on restoring it or using it for parts.
Lots of rust. I've heard of a product called Evapo-Rust on this forum. I'm thinking about 
giving it a try probably will. Good test with all the rust. Is Gar okay?
Joe
Quote
grob
Joe, looks like a good user, hey for $5 ya can't go wrong. The globe will cost 3 times that much! The mask is available here. It is for painting on an everdur tank like my 1937 3H stove. I am not sure if it would stand up to sandblasting, but there are products for that for signage. I have etched glass before a long time ago with chemicals. Now I have a couple sandblasters for, well sand and aluminum oxide which is good for cleaning up car parts... manifolds and such.

The collar and frame on this 220B has the tin dip, as there are some globs here and there. The genny is a nickel T44DL and running in my 220E for now.

I have not tried Evapo-Rust, but 50/50 vinegar heated up works pretty well and cheap. I use a #10 coffee can on the stove for frames and collars etc.
Do I know what I am doing... oh hell no, but it usually works out somehow.
Gar
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
Gunhippie
Colemannut wrote:
E6BA9620-19EC-470E-A92A-5E7FC4327C45.jpeg Some 220/228B’s had nickel plating on the base rest! So you can’t say all are tin dipped!


I've never seen or heard of nickel over brass collars on a 220/228! What years were those?

I never said all were hot-dipped--just the early Bs and some other oldies like the USFS-embossed lanterns.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
Welcome to the Coleman Collectors Forum, an international forum of Coleman enthusiast and collectors, as such people from all over the world come here to read about Coleman collecting, repair, and to meet and make friends. The pages contained here are intended for the use of amateur collectors and people interested in Coleman collecting, restoration and repair as a hobby. It goes without saying to refrain from political posts, personal attacks and inflammatory posts.

Please note, all postings are the personal opinions of the members posting, the owner, administrators and moderators of the forum do not warrant the accuracy of posted information or endorse the safety of such.