200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

joecarquest
This is my current swap meet find. By looking on the bottom it's a first year 220B. Somebody painted it silver so I have to figure how to get the paint off. I was thinking about getting the ventilator powder coated was wondering your thoughts? I went on line to find a different one no luck. Any thoughts or ideas about restoring would be appreciated. Thanks
20190902_1002511.jpg  20190901_1927231.jpg  20190901_193032_0012.jpg  20190902_1004041.jpg  20190902_1007091.jpg
Joe
Always looking for great finds
Live long and prosper
Quote
SteveRetherford
you need porcelain on a vent , powder coat will melt n burn off .
[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
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OregonMichael
Nice score, Joe!  Looks like it's nice and clean.  I'll echo what Steve said....powder coating won't withstand the heat that the vent will have to endure.  To have new porcelain enamel, you can send it to IPE (Independence Porcelain Enamel) and Jeff will do it for you.  Or, wait it out on that auction site and one will probably show up.  You might also post a WTB thread here in the classifieds
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Rfieldbuilds
My personal opinion on collectible lanterns is that I would rather have damaged original porcelain than a recoated vent. A recoated vent simply will not look as good as the original.
I know many are happy with the IPE quality, and I think for  a user lantern or a display piece it is a fine option. One thing I promise is that a recoated piece will not look original if you look at it closely.  Yep, I opened the worm can. 
Randy
QL #15
Slant Saver #59
#0269 Turd Hurdler, and a few others too.
Quote
scl
that and the 242nl are colemans finest lanterns in my opinion.
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grob
Joe, if the bottom of the fount looks like a bad silver paint job, I think this was a rust proof coating they put on it, as the bottom of the fount is steel. Go figure! The bottom of my 228B 1936 is funky enough to obscure the sunshine logo, so don't remove it. You would think they would make the whole fount out of brass, especially the bottom which is where the most rust would accumulate!!! If you look inside, you might see rust. A few years later they stopped putting a model indication anywhere on the rest of the Bs. I like the winged fuel cap.
Anyway, nice find, Gary

[cole_228b_6s-80089457]
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
joecarquest
Thanks for the help. The vent has silver spray paint on it. Would dipping
it in vinegar be a problem for the porcelain?
Joe
Always looking for great finds
Live long and prosper
Quote
Colemannut
joecarquest wrote:
Thanks for the help. The vent has silver spray paint on it. Would dipping
it in vinegar be a problem for the porcelain?


You can use spray on paint remover and it will not hurt the porcelain on the vent.
Quote
grob
I think that the porcelain is pretty tough. You could try lacquer thinner in a small test spot. I just saw the silver paint on the vent holes... might be covering rust with high temp silver, so I guess it is decision time.
Gar


Here is a link to the early 220B at the bottom of the page:
https://terry-marsh.com/coleman-us-lanterns-1920-1930/

Here is my recently finished diagram of 220/228 operation using a '36 B model:
(Let me know of any corrections, additions, or deletions that should be made).

[fuel_valv_fa_diagxs-16399342] 
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
joecarquest
Did Coleman solder other parts besides the fount to prevent corrosion.
Like this collar maybe. It is thicker than most collars I have dealt with
Joe
Always looking for great finds
Live long and prosper
Quote
RobSchroff
There is something (could be vinegar or citric acid or ......) that will cause porcelain to become "hazy"...permanently....  I would try boiling it (submerging it in boiling water for a few minutes will likely soften the paint, allowing it to be rubbed off), or try oven cleaner spray (contains lye) or paint stripper as mentioned above.   The oven cleaner and paint stripper will burn your skin, so wear gloves.   Maybe try boiling it first...
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Gunhippie
The fount base, collar and frame should be hot-dipped in tin. Unfortunately, tin is subject to tin pest, which cases it to go away after a few decades. There will be some drips and runs remaining, but the general coating is likely gone. Elbow grease and 4-0 steel wool are your best bet for cleaning the tin-coated parts up. I don't like to use a polish like Mother's on the frame, as it leaves a residue--wax?--that stinks badly when the lantern is lit for the first few hours, and can leave a whitish deposit. Mother's Mag and aluminum polish is great for the fount and collar.

Don't use any kind of acid on the vent, including vinegar!  Acids will fog the vent, leaving it dull and dead-looking. They also suck at removing paint.

No wax of any kind on the vent, either. It can cause the vent porcelain to craze with heat.

Caustic is the way to remove paint, my favorite being lye in hot water. Spray-on oven cleaner is also effective, as is automatic dish washer detergent, as both are mostly lye. Just be careful you don't dissolve yourself.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
Colemannut
This 319 was completely covered in brush on high temp silver paint. I used the gel spray on paint stripper from Walmart on the whole lantern! It won’t hurt anything even the porcelain on vents. I have done this many times so take my word for it! 556892A9-071C-482B-B365-ABE97C692768.jpeg 4907E5F4-8B47-4CFD-8708-8F0C1B1F5FCA.jpeg 
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joecarquest
I'll go to Walmart and get the stripper
Joe
Always looking for great finds
Live long and prosper
Quote
sourgasjohn
You should be able to wipe off the paint with either lacquer thinner or acetone on a rag  or 0000 steel wool, neither solvent will hurt the porcelain. Timm, I had never heard of tin pest so googled it. Wikipedia has some interesting info on it, also tin whiskers!
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joecarquest
I had never heard of tin pest either. I did not know they used tin dip. How long was that tin dip used?
Joe
Always looking for great finds
Live long and prosper
Quote
Gunhippie
The hot-dip tin was used for a few years--the USFS 327s and early 220/8B are what comes to mind. Drips and runs distinguish it. Fount bases were hot-dipped for quite a while, obscuring many a date stamp.

Tin electroplating was used later, through the 220/8D. That stuff really suffered from the dreaded pest.

E and later--for a while--were bright galvanized--zinc electroplated. Other platings followed.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
joecarquest
I had some oven cleaner at home. I couldn't tell the vent was blue underneath until cleaned.
You can see the zink on the collar and where the tin pest worked.
I'm not happy with the fount or frame yet so I'm going to get paint stripper tomorrow.  
Joe
Always looking for great finds
Live long and prosper
Quote
Gunhippie
It's looking good for its age!

What's under the missing tin is just good ol' US steel. You can wax the collar, but the frame gets too hot. For the most part, it looks like you're there. Some good metal polish (NOT rouge!) and a very soft, slow buffing wheel on the fount, followed by wax of choice and you'll have it.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
grob
Joe, I used Meguiare's Mirror Glaze chrome polish on the fount and 000 and 0000 steel wool and a terry cloth final. Still have some spotting like yours, but looks pretty good. Not a mirror shine though. Used the same on the collar and frame with #1 and 000 steel wool after a hot 50/50 vinegar bath. Not saying Mirror Glaze is the best, it's just what I have. I have not tried Mothers yet. Meguiare's paint cleaner and polish has been recommended for painted founts. Car needs it too.

Colemannut, nice job on the 319. Is that an Arc lantern?

Timm, why not rouge? I have a tube and it is on my larger buffing wheel. Might be able to wash it. I have a small dremel buffing wheel for details.

[228b_12s-61938482] 
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
Colemannut
E6BA9620-19EC-470E-A92A-5E7FC4327C45.jpeg Some 220/228B’s had nickel plating on the base rest! So you can’t say all are tin dipped!
Quote
joecarquest
If mine comes out have as good as those I'll be happy
Joe
Always looking for great finds
Live long and prosper
Quote
joecarquest

It's almost done. Some day I will get a buffing wheel and realy polish it.
I need a good lantern for surf fishing. I was thinking this one. But I'll never
find another one like it again.
Thanks for the help and advice. 

Joe
Always looking for great finds
Live long and prosper
Quote
grob
Joe, that is really looking FAB. Belongs with a Model A. I thought it would take a long time and money to find some nickel, much less a '36, but there it was a couple months ago and I might get another 220B soon. Gar
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
joecarquest
Grob we will see who finds one first.
Joe
Always looking for great finds
Live long and prosper
Quote
grob
I want to take a photo of my 228B and my 1937 3H stove with a 1937 Buick Straight 8 Coupe outside of the local whiskey distillery. It's like their mascot. I missed a painted 242C for $20 yesterday  >:*\
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
joecarquest
grob here's mine. Not in very good condition though. Still works.
Joe
Always looking for great finds
Live long and prosper
Quote
grob
Oh Joe, your're just a user! Good one to have, so you don't mess up the good ones. I like it. I might strip the fount on on a funky one, as i like the brass. I have a line on 2 nickel bottoms, but I need to sell something first and time is a wastin'.
Gar
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
Gunhippie
Where's the pic? What's stopping you?

My painted 242C is the opposite--good paint, bad vent.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
grob
OK torture me with the one that got away.
242C 47f.jpg 
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
joecarquest
Grob I don't understand why you have to sell something first.
Joe
Always looking for great finds
Live long and prosper
Quote
grob
Joe, I got it. It is a Feb. 1935 220B for $25. This is a sales pic, as I have not taken any pics yet. A little beat up, but nice. Fuel in it and it might just fire up. The winged fuel cap is not pristine and just a plain globe. I might get a sunshine mask and sandblast a logo into it. Vent just has one small chip near the top. How cool can it get man?  Also came with a case that will accommodate my 228s vent. Gar

[220b_35_fs1-60459967] 
[220b_35_fs3-44648211] 
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
joecarquest
That's awesome. Great about the case too. Good deal for 25 dollars.
Where do you get a sunshine mask? How do you sandblast it on to a globe?
I'm thinking about ordering a globe from Fred Kuntz for my 220b.
I got this 200a Sunday for 5 dollars dated 2-1956. I'm tying to decide on restoring it or using it for parts.
Lots of rust. I've heard of a product called Evapo-Rust on this forum. I'm thinking about 
giving it a try probably will. Good test with all the rust. Is Gar okay?
Joe
Always looking for great finds
Live long and prosper
Quote
grob
Joe, looks like a good user, hey for $5 ya can't go wrong. The globe will cost 3 times that much! The mask is available here. It is for painting on an everdur tank like my 1937 3H stove. I am not sure if it would stand up to sandblasting, but there are products for that for signage. I have etched glass before a long time ago with chemicals. Now I have a couple sandblasters for, well sand and aluminum oxide which is good for cleaning up car parts... manifolds and such.

The collar and frame on this 220B has the tin dip, as there are some globs here and there. The genny is a nickel T44DL and running in my 220E for now.

I have not tried Evapo-Rust, but 50/50 vinegar heated up works pretty well and cheap. I use a #10 coffee can on the stove for frames and collars etc.
Do I know what I am doing... oh hell no, but it usually works out somehow.
Gar

Oh, BTW cooking up dinner on a 426A.
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
Gunhippie
Colemannut wrote:
E6BA9620-19EC-470E-A92A-5E7FC4327C45.jpeg Some 220/228B’s had nickel plating on the base rest! So you can’t say all are tin dipped!


I've never seen or heard of nickel over brass collars on a 220/228! What years were those?

I never said all were hot-dipped--just the early Bs and some other oldies like the USFS-embossed lanterns.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
joecarquest
Gar you must have a huge shop with two sandblasters. I guess I'll have to remodel my garage to keep up
with the Joneses. I like trying new things to see how they work. Where did you get your sandblasters?
I'ts nice having a five dollar lantern to play with.
Joe
Always looking for great finds
Live long and prosper
Quote
grob
Joe, I have 3 very small shops that I have to run back and forth to. No blast cabinets. I have a cheap-o Sears that has a bucket of sand and a Paasche Air Eraser type LA-6 that has a small gravity feed can. Can be found at art supply stores and is good for etching glass with aluminum oxide. I took some pics of the 220B and case Sunday, but have not had time to post. I will soon.
Gar

[_SX425_]
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
grob
Here is the 220B before photos. It is a Feb. 1935. I had cleaned the rusty vent nut and nickel genny already. I have heard that the winged cap was through 1934, so I am thinking this one may have been using up surplus. The 2nd photo is warped out due to a wide angle lens.
[220b1s-13406202]  [220b2s-75278299] 
[220b3s-10494547]  [220b4s-29760187]
You can see the tin dip droops
[220b5s-34359314] 
The winged cap is beat, but one of the reasons I got it.
[220b6s-56920256] 
The cap is missing the inner brass part. There is a gasket of some sort and this lock nut.
[220b7s-59838417] 
Here is the whole package I got for $25. When I got there he had this case and I said I'll take it. When I got home there was the 220/228E brochure and one for a heater and 2 Silk Lites. I added hinges, a latch and strap handle to the box. It has 1-1/2" foam inside and will accommodate a 228.
[220b8s-84746493] 
The case is big compared to my 220 case, but can take a beating. I cleaned up the vent, winged cap and globe at this point. The vent came out quite nice, but has rust in the vent hole area like Joe's 220B. The globe has no markings, but appears to be old, as it has anomalies in the glass. Maybe from the 40s? Here it is with my 228B and case. The table has been around as long as me. Mom used it for sewing and wrapping presents and such. I use it for camping and whatever.
[220b11s-51755981] 
Here is the cap cleaned up. A lot of nickel gone. I put O rings under a brass screw and inside with a brass cap nut. Well... it leaks a bit, so I need a proper insert and gasket. Maybe a washer under the gasket to try to raise it and cover up the side hole.
[wing_cap1s-92407530] 
[wing_cap2s-31836372]
Well, looks a lot better anyway, Gar
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
grob
Here is the bottom. Question is to remove the painted guys name as it is ugly, or preserve it as history?
[220b_35_fs6-81168907] 
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
Ridge Runner
1935 - wow!! Definitely looks a lot better after some much needed TLC.

As for the "art-work" on the bottom, if it isn't bothering you too much I say leave it for  the time being. The bottom is pretty decent otherwise. You could always clean it off someday down the road.

— L.J.
Looking for 10/2015 & 1/2020 B-Day Lanterns
"Ain’t no need to watch where I’m goin’; just need to know where I’ve been" -Tow Mater

Quote
Gunhippie
grob wrote:
....

Timm, why not rouge? I have a tube and it is on my larger buffing wheel. Might be able to wash it. I have a small dremel buffing wheel for details....



Because rouge is far too aggressive. On a buffing wheel, it will cut right through the thin nickel plating before you can say *&#%!

I use the softest rag buffing wheel--which I use for nothing else--I can find on my drill press at the lowest speed and nothing but fine metal polish--Mother's being my polish of choice.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
joecarquest
Gar OLDCOLEMANPARTS.COM has the filler cap insert and they carry the screws too if you need one.
I got some Evapo-Rust from Amazon it works well and I don't like the smell of vinegar.
I bought the check valve tool from oldcolemanparts.com. When I'm restoring a Coleman product
I always take the check valve out to make sure it's okay. The one on the 200 is stuck really bad.
I'll let you know how well it worked when I get it.
What a great score for 25 dollars.
Thanks for the info on the Paasche Air Eraser type LA-6. Something else to get.

Joe
Always looking for great finds
Live long and prosper
Quote
grob
Thanks Timm, Rouge is usually for jewelry which is solid gold, silver and the like, so that makes sense. I'll get some Mothers.

Joe, Thanks, I'll check out Old Coleman for the insert. The winged caps are slightly smaller on the diameter of the hole, but a regular insert might work too. I pulled out the pump this morning and the air stem and pump tube were bent down near the cup. WTH? how would that happen? Anyway with careful tapping and vice work, I got got them back fairly straight. The check valve came out no problemo and the pump cup is in good shape. The check valve on the 220/228, 220/228B models and 3F/H stoves are larger than the regular newer ones FWI. PN - 216-538 and Old Coleman has reproductions if you ever need one.
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
Gunhippie
By pump tube, do you mean the pump stem? If so, the air stem and pump stem will get stuck together from corrosion, and attempting to pump it when they are sticking will bend both. Glad you got 'em fixed.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
grob
There was not any corrosion on the air stem and pump stem, so I don't know. Pump cup is soaking in Neats Foot... the gas in the tank is clean, but the eccentric is gluncked up in the cleaner assembly, so it might not fire until I clean it all........ Well it fired, but erratically and only for a few seconds. Needs a good cleaning. Does the tin dip collar and frame clean up well? Somewhere between this 220B (2/35) and my 228B (10/36) they changed to the bright galvie, as my 228B's collar and frame are nice like later model Es and such.
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
Gunhippie
Here's my 1930 228B collar after cleaning:

[29935686727_fc3996de8b_o]

The run is tin from the hot-dipping. Most of the rest is bare steel due to tin pest.

I've refurbed five 220/8Bs now, spanning the production. Early were hot-dipped tin, later were smooth electroplated tin. I use phos acid in my cleaning, and zinc galvanizing is immediately obvious as it reacts and foams vigorously (and goes away quickly) with the acid. 220/8E seems to be where the zinc galvanizing starts. When in doubt, I test a drop of acid on the inside of the collar or bottom of the frame where it won't show.

Tin pest requires temps below 56F to get started, so it's possible some lanterns have never been subjected to low temps and still have perfect tin. Never seen one myself, but I live in the North.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
grob
My 1936 228B must be the electroplated tin, as it took to polishing pretty well and my 1955 220E does indeed look galvie. I didn't polish up everything on the 220E, because it is all in nice original shape. Thanks for all this great info. I keep files on all this kind of knowledge. Never heard of tin dip or tin pest before. Here is the 1936 collar and parts. Gar

[228b_parts2s-97047055] 
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
Gunhippie
Wow! I've seen a few bent cleaner tips, but that one takes the cake!
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
Quote
joecarquest
Hey Gar when you said the mask is available here. Do you mean this web site?
I've been looking and can't find it. I think I must of miss understood that part of the post.
Here is a picture of my collar after cleaning. Still looks dirty because of the tin.
Joe
Always looking for great finds
Live long and prosper
Quote
grob
Joe, I was wrong about it being on this site. Here is the info and link. These are for -PAINT- stencils for an Everdur tank, but they might have other products.
Also a straight 'Coleman' stencil which may be appropriate for early B globes.
A local sign shop might be able to help. I have a 'Coleman' stencil logo drawn up.
Paache Air Eraser is probably around $100
Maybe a Fred Kuntz globe is the easier way to go.
I have been researching the early etched globes and I think there are 3 or 4 different ones.

Coleman 3F Everdur Logo Stencil $8
https://www.etsy.com/listing/591591609/everdur-tank-stencil-2?ref=related-2
Text size: Approx. 2.25" X 3.00"
Stencil Size: 3" X 5.75"
Dye cut from adhesive backed ORAMASK 813 Stencil Film with Transfer tape applied.
- Translucently blue dyed stencil film (special PVC, 80 micron)
- Matt finish
- For all paint and spray techniques also on uneven surfaces
- Polyacrylate, removable.

Coleman stencil 3H.jpg 
Colem stencil.jpg 
Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote


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