200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

While doing the FFR on my 201. I decided to compare the burner tube with my 200A and record the results visually in order to show them here. This question has come up at different times, so now, interested people can actually see the difference for themselves. In all photos, the 200A tube is on top, and the 201 tube is on the bottom.

In this first photo, we see that the overall length of both tubes is identical.


This next photo is of the outlet (burner cap end) of the tubes. We see that both inside & outside diameters are the same.


In the final photo, we see the inlet ("U" tube end) of the tubes. The inside diameter of the 200A tube is far smaller than the I.D. of the 201's tube.


So, would you recommend drilling out a 200a tube when converting it to burn both CF and kero or leave it?
"Pleasant words are a honeycomb, Sweet to the soul and healing to the bones." Proverbs 16:24
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
Hi Chuck,

Actually, I am loath to make any recommendations, especially when it involves permanent modifications to parts. I would say that, if you have a spare 200A tube, as well as the ability & equipment to drill it properly, then I would certainly give it a try.

I have never got my 200A to burn properly with a kero conversion. Oh, it burns - but it is a bit of a smelly burn and the light given off is slightly yellowish, rather than the blinding white that we like to see. I have always believed that this was due to the burner tube being incorrect for kero. Well, after lighting my 201, my suspicions were confirmed. With the correct burner tube passing the required amount of air, this thing burns like a sun and as white as snow!


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