200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

Dale_3rd
Well my very first vintage lantern has arrived, a '65 200a.  It was purchased off epray and I have to email the seller.  Seems the 2 chips on the ventilator don't count as "Great shape some light scuffing of paint but no dents or dings."; they were on the back in the auction picture.  The smudge on the front looked like something touched it while hot and melted onto the surface.  It came off with a scour sponge.



The pump valve leaks a little when open but seems to seal when tightened.  I've got it sitting pumped up to see if it leaks any.  I'm going to try some carb cleaner tonight and let it set to see if it frees up.  Then I'll fill it with fuel and check for leaks.

It seemed like the tip cleaner was stuck too.  It rotates freely, the nut would come off, but the stem wouldn't come out.  Pump leather isn't the best but I was able to invert it for a little bit, then pop it back and it pumps up pretty good now.

The fun begins.



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SteveRetherford

you might be sorry if you take out the tip cleaner assembly , they dont come out easy and are usualy destroyed trying . just tighten it and loosen it a few times and sorta repack the packing is all i usualy do . not too tight thou its a feel you learn i guess

[DrSteve2]    Steve , Keeper of the Light !!!
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jtstj
Good luck with it.  Bob's site (oldcolemanparts.com) has a 200A rebuild step by step.  "Scuff marks on the porcline paint are a given IMO.
John,  The "Perfection-ist"
Connoisseur of Fine Perfection Heaters

    I have Phobophobia ( afraid of phobias)
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RolandChevalier
The rebuilding instructions are very thorough.  Go for it, take your time and lots of pictures.  You will have your 200A gleaming and beaming in no time.

Roland

Roleman Coleman - SAY NO TO "NO LETTER"
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Dale_3rd
Scuff marks yes, a few little spots (there was one on the side with the smudge) are okay and/or expected.  One inch chips that were not noted seems to me quite an oversight.

I'll be checking out the site to rebuild.  I tried the carb cleaner and it didn't seem to stop the leak in the foot valve.  I tried pressing the ball down with a 1/16" brass rod but it doesn't seem to be moving much or at all, yet it does allow air past it.

I consider myself an (very) amateur machinist; a question for the ranks, "Are all/most of the pumps on Coleman lanterns the same diameter?"  I'm thinking of making a valve removal tool myself and thinking about a centering bushing for the shaft.

Thanks all!

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Dale_3rd
Well, IT LIVES.

Now I see why so many people like the little 200a's, they seem to be really nice little lanterns, much quieter than I expected too!  Just a nice soft low hiss, nothing like my NorthStar or 639.

The carb cleaner really worked on the valve leak.  I let a pool sit in the bottom of the pump tube and about 3 hours later it seemed to seat itself and was able to pump it up without leaks or back pressure on the pump.  Fueled it up and let it sit for about 10 min with fuel under pressure and no signs of leaks.  I took it outside and burned the mantle (older silklite I think, it was already tied on and the strings cut to short to remove and use later), then let the glow die down and opened the valve and lit it off.  I only see a small leak in the U tube at the top where the air tube makes the bend down to the burner.  It doesn't look like it's an airtight connection anyway so not sure if it's typical or defective and didn't seem to leak fuel/flames once the lantern was up and running good.

I think my quest for a great quality b-day 200a has begun.

I'll run her some more and might pull it apart again and bead blast the globe support/cage and hit it with some high temp silver; sprucer her up a bit.

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Flash
The 200's are my favorite lanterns by far.


The original $8 dealer.
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LakeGeorge
Those tops always chip,
Gary Coleman, I am.
I.C.C.C. #1035
 Gettysburg Camping Trip, June 9-14, 2020, at Artillery Ridge Campground resulted in zero cases of Coronavirus being spread! Masks work!
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Dale_3rd
It didn't hold pressure overnight so I have a slow leak.  I guess it's time for a spray down with soapy water and/or a dunk test.  Tonight it's getting a half tank of fuel and at least a 2 hour run.  When running this lantern, is it necessary to fully open the valve, seems like there isn't much difference from 1/2 turn to fully open.

I'm curious as to the difference between the old mantle and a new peerless on a 200.  Guess if I have to tear it down I'll find out.

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Christopher_OR

I read somewhere that with the fuel/air models, opening the valve all the way helps keep the tank pressurized. I never understood why, but it may have to do with the design of the valve. It's interesting that I have a Canuck 236 that will extinguish itself shortly after lighting it if I fail to get that valve all the way open, and quickly. In any case, there's no reason not to run the thing fully open.

In my experience the slow pressure leak is almost always due to the filler cap gasket not sealing properly. Replace the gasket and/or use a piece of sandpaper to smooth the sealing surface of the fount filler.
Christopher OR 

1970 – 2017 R.I.P.
This member has passed.

His Favorite Quotes:

"Life is about turning the things you want to do into things you've done." --KRD

"I don't give a damn for a man that can only spell a word one way." --Samuel Clemens

"Everyone looks good in the fish eye lens that is the side of a Coleman fount." --raly13

ICCC #947
Coleman Blues #041
A turd is something you flush.
-----------------------------
76501 00037
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Dale_3rd
Thanks for all the replies.

I found that the valve still isn't sealing all the way.  Seem to be the only issue other than the fact that I pulled it all apart and now it surges slightly, about every 2 seconds it brightens a bit then runs fine.  The "sound" of the lantern running doesn't change a bit, a nice steady hissssssss, only the brightness cycles a little; enough to be annoying.  There was a cob web in the air tube which I removed and not it seems to run worse.  Now I have a stock Coleman mantle on it and it's no where near as nice as the old one that was on it.  I'll burn it for a few hours and see if it settles in.

Taking the gen tube off and pulling the rod/cleaning pin I didn't notice a spring so I guess this is a cardboard packed model.  Maybe a new gen tube is in order.  I'll keep tinker with it, but over all the 200 seems to be a solid platform.  Fires up quickly and easily, is quiet, and put out good light.

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Dale_3rd
Well, I did a half restore on it, mostly just lightly sand blasted the frame and sprayed with high temp silver paint, cleaned up the tubes and lightly polished the collar.  Also put a peerless mantle on it and gave it some new fuel with some Sea Foam in it, gonna run it a long while tonight.



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wheelerspop
Nice Job on the 200 Dale

Flash.....Really?
Dave
275 Appreciation Syndicate member #0045
"Remember, I'm pulling for ya. We're all in this together!" Red Green
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Flash
Just a question, Would a 1965 US 200a not have a tall vent on it?
The original $8 dealer.
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hurricaner
I believe it was early in 63 I have 2 two 8/63's with short vents.

Sam
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Dale_3rd
I've been playing with this one a little bit more.  I pulled the cardboard out of the generator and wound a new spring out of some 18 gauge copper wire.  I happedned to have a screwdriver that was the perfect diameter to wind it on and it fits the gen tube just right and the old spring slide into the new one perfectly as well.  Fired up it seems to help but I still have a slight pulse for about 5-10 min after lighting it.  After a while it seems to calm down but I do get a little flickering with it running. 

I had the burner set all the way up so I moved it down, carefully so as not of mess up the mantle and locked it back down but that didn't seem to help much.  I read several posts and see that it seems to be a problem with some lanterns; anyone figured it out yet?

Tomorrow I'll pull the valve assembly and check the F/A tube for obstructions or splits.  I did notice that when I was cleaning it before that when filled with fuel and the valve opened it didn't shoot a solid stream of fuel but rather "spit" fuel out.  Is that normal?

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Murff
Dale-

It will spit a bit and sometimes stop flowing all together. Turn the tip cleaned a few times and that should get her to put out a steady stream when cold.

Murff

Name: Murff   ICCC Member #726 
Coleman Blue's 243's #002   Ebay Handle: Happy-campers2 
EX-ICCC Newsletter Editor & Full time Coleman Addiction Enabler
Part-time Idito and Hater of Turd 275s
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Flash
Quote:
Flash.....Really?


Well, I don't know why, maybe its cause it might be the lantern in the logo,
I'm not really sure, I am basically trying to have one perfect example of every lantern
in my collection, I usually sell/trade the rest. but 200's....Well, I have at least 20 of them now, and I love them all. There was a guy buying some stuff off me last week, he was in my garage. He looked at my workbench and saw four lanterns all taken apart, "You've got quite a collection" said the man. then he looked up at the shelf over the door of my garage and said...."OH my...."

Now as for the vents, so early 63 was when the tall vents stopped. Ionly have 3 US
200a's and the rest are Canadian.
Thanks, for the information.


The original $8 dealer.
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Murff
Canadian high vents continued beyond '63, Flash! Not sure when, or if, they went to the low in Canada!

Murff

Name: Murff   ICCC Member #726 
Coleman Blue's 243's #002   Ebay Handle: Happy-campers2 
EX-ICCC Newsletter Editor & Full time Coleman Addiction Enabler
Part-time Idito and Hater of Turd 275s
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Dale_3rd
Well I pulled it as far apart as I could, checked the F/A tube and valve assembly and they were nice and clear.  Still could not get the pump valve out it's stuck in there pretty good, ended up rounded the slot off so it will require an easy out to "fix". 

One thing I did notice was that the outer brass tube on the F/A tube was staked but slightly loose and was curious if air could be pulled up the tube that might cause a surge in the fuel supply.  Since I don't have others to compare to does anybody have comments on this?  Would it be worth pulling apart again and soldering the outer tube in tight? (with the fuel all evaporated of course).  Last on my list is to try a new generator.  It's driving me mad because it's a great little lantern but I really don't like the pulsing light. 

I also tried lowering the burner tube almost all the way, then working it back in, about 1/8" increments, to see if the pulsing was due to a resonance of the fuel/air mix traveling out the burner.  I actually found that there was a slight bit of that happening but it worked best with it all the way up anyway.

Has anyone tried wrapping a piece of fiberglass cloth around the inner spring instead of the paper tube or the second  metal spring?

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Scouterjan
sounds to me like a air leak around the U tube, when the lantern heats up, metal expands, and it might be drawing air in that location
Jan



Mitakiuye Oyasin " All My Relations"
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