200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.

dodge trucker
haven't been around in a while, sorry. but getting ready to hopefully go on 1st campout of season, (cmon COVID, just LEAVE already!) and I remembered one of my lanterns that I keep in the camper (I usually take no less than 3 of them along) gave me trouble on last campout of 2019, so I thought Id fire up all that I have. Which includes my 2nd 275, and a couple of newly acquired 220s. brings my total up to 13 at the moment. got 8 out of the 10 that weren't in the camper going a couple of days ago. 1 being a big top 228 that seems unlit from brand new (1973 model) don't seem to have ever had a mantle tied to it and my PITA 200 from 1975 that I don't think will ever cooperate. I had it apart to the fount but never took the valve out of the tank below the pump. I have replaced the generator, the mantle, the fuel cap and so far nothing. 
after I got those 1st 8 lanterns going that night (and left them lit all at once, down the driveway) a couple of which had been finicky in the past/ I thought I'd try that 200 again. Id open the valve, and not hear fuel hissing, pumped its brains out, (oh yeah I put a newer pump assy with the fake rubber looking cup in back a couple years ago too) I put a new leather cup on that new pump assy, just chucked the rubberish cup. It would intermittently hiss, like they do when valve is open and they aren't lit. but with my exp with 2 mantel versions it should hiss any time the valve is on, there is fuel in the tank and pressure behind the fuel. 
I took a butane BBQ lighter and warmed up the generator (never had to do that before) and FINALLY got it to light but quickly died.No globe or top on it.  I got it going briefly a 2nd time, played with the cleaning knob, pumped some more and got it to light a 3rd time/ got it started, "just" got to what I think is full bright and fizzled out again, not to light again. tried pumping like crazy again once it lit and that didn't help. I stole the fuel cap to put on one of the 2 mantel versions that was weak, (bright-wise) and died/ putting the cap from the 200 onto this 2 mantel solved the dimness and die out issue of that unit, so I know that cap is good.....  never had a check valve out of one of these, so I don't have the tool.... where again do I get those? 
IDK why but I got it in my head that this check valve, is what it will take to get this crazy 200 to take off.
This is the 2nd 200 that I have had, wound up tossing the 1st, as it was in tough shape/ and I hadn't discovered this forum yet as of when I had that one.  
Thoughts??  Id like to see this thing lit and working. 

BTW I got all 3 that were in the camper going just a little bit ago, this 200 remains a thorn in my side. 
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hahoe03
Sounds like a full teardown is in order. Pull the valve and clean the fuel tube first and just work your way up.
Jeremiah 29:11-13 KJV For I know the thoughts that I think toward you, saith the Lord , thoughts of peace, and not of evil, to give you an expected end. [12] Then shall ye call upon me, and ye shall go and pray unto me, and I will hearken unto you. [13] And ye shall seek me, and find me , when ye shall search for me with all your heart.

Mike Trigg
The Coleman Blue's 243's #053. Sears Collectors Club #69
hahoe03 - FAS #013 Confusing Future Generations of Collectors, One Lantern at a Time!
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pongo
Take the lantern burner assy off. Fill it up with gas and pump like normal. Open the valve. Fuel spray intermittent?  Shake it. Fuel spray good? Time to tear down and pull the valve and clean the FA tube. 

I bought my cv tool from our sponsor.  It's great to have one. I would definitely recommend one. Try the fuel test first. Good luck.
Phil
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outlawmws
What Pongo said.  Another detailed test is to have it fairly full and tilt on its side..   If THAT flows fuel at 1/4 turn open and sitting level doesn't,  its the pick up, or so much crud inside that you are getting the inlet orifice plugged.  

Heck,  I had a stove tank FULL of paper bits and something like that can get sucked up and plug it real quick (I spent the good part of an HOUR getting all the paper bits out.. Jigsaw puzzle anyone?)
[Logo%20Outlaw-half] 
Coleman Blue's 243's #341 - 275 Appreciation Syndicate member 0242
FAS #001 Confusing Future Generations of Collectors, One Lantern at a Time!

“A Human Being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, give orders, take orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook  a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly.  Specialization is for insects.”            - Lazarus Long


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dodge trucker
so you guys don't think that its the check valve under the pump? What problems would that cause, if that were bad? 
also I just did a quick search and saw where a member was having trouble with both a 200 and a 220, and one of the replys said that the stem on the 200 valve wasn't meant to come out but the 220's would. so on a  200 the packing couldn't be replaced?  
I had a valve apart on a 2 mantle (either a 220 or a 228) a LONG time ago, suffering from CRS at the moment. 
I like the looks of this "little" 200, I also have an "adjustable" (don't remember the model, it's about the size of the 200, I do remember its my newest lantern at 1991) but the 200s look "cooler". 
I also have to give my Dad's old 275 some attention, Ill start a new thread on that one. 
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uvarmint
Pull the valve, unstick and then clean the fuel/air tube, replace. Should solve
that
problem.   Don’t mess with the check valve.
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outlawmws
The check valve can leak and make you lose pressure.  In odd extreamis, it or that end of the pump tube could potentially leak fuel into the pump tube, but that would be serious cracking or a loose/unsealed check valve.    Generally you know you need to clean it if the pressure leaks past and the pump rod is pushing back against your thumb. 

It is central to the pressurization system, not the fuel feed system.  
[Logo%20Outlaw-half] 
Coleman Blue's 243's #341 - 275 Appreciation Syndicate member 0242
FAS #001 Confusing Future Generations of Collectors, One Lantern at a Time!

“A Human Being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, give orders, take orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook  a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly.  Specialization is for insects.”            - Lazarus Long


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Gunhippie
To test the CV (ball valve below the pump), pump it up good and hard. With the air stem open (pump knob unscrewed CCW one full turn) and the pump stem all the way down, place your finger tip over the hole in the pump knob. If the CV is leaking badly, the pump stem will push out against your finger. If it does, turn the pump know CW until it stops, and repeat the test. If the pump stem now stays down, it's the CV. If the pump still wants to push out, it's probably bad news, but might just be a loose CV.

Keep in mind that the CV is not a non-return valve, and will always leak a little with the stem open. It's meant to allow air in faster than it gets out, and the stem does the job of sealing the pump.

You can often fix a leaking CV by simply squirting some carb cleaner into the tube with the pump shaft out. Let it sit for a few minutes, then install the pump shaft and pump it through. The little bit of carb cleaner in the fount will burn just fine, so don't worry about it, but DON"T GET CARB CLEANER ON THE PAINT!

Best of luck and keep us updated. I agree with the above that it's time for a full tear-down and clean. I've seen many FA tubes that were completely clogged with varnish and corrosion.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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Dmacp
is there pressure released when you open the cap? If the fount is getting pressurized then it could be plugged at the pickup. If the fount is not getting pressurized, then the check valve or safety tube is plugged and must be cleared of congealed pump lube and leather shards.
Dan
ICCC member #604
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dodge trucker
safety tube?
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zoomkat
"Thoughts??  Id like to see this thing lit and working. "

Well, I'm somewhat lost in all the discussions as just what you have tried and what you experienced. Have you or somebody else taken the lantern apart in the past? Has it operated properly since you have had it? As somebody else has said. does the tank hold pressure? 
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dodge trucker
no it has never worked since I have had it. I took it apart enough to replace the generator tube and the pump leather, that's as deep as I have been so far. who knows what had been done by past owners? I have had this about 3 years, put the parts mentioned into it about 1-1/2-2 years ago, wouldn't light, put aside til a couple days ago, tried again to light with no success.  but came closer to getting it to light a couple days ago than last time I futzed with it.  Noticed a couple days ago that when I open the valve (tank pressurized and yeah it has fuel) the hiss that these lanterns put off when the valve is open and not lit, was intermittent, came and went, and sounded weak compared to my 2 mantel versions (but this is the 1st 200 that I have ever tried to use)  When it WOULD light it would only last about a minute and die. I have had lanterns get weak as the fuel is used up in the tank where I pump on it a handful of times while lit, brightens them up.  Pumping on this one while it was lit made no difference in keeping it from dying. 
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dodge trucker
ok just looked again.... this isn't a '75 but a 200A from 8/79. I just looked at all my lanterns and wrote down model numbers and years.  I didn't think they were making red ones anymore, by then. 
the other one that I had a few years before that I tossed out thinking then that it was "too far gone" must have been the '75 one. 
(that was well  before I discovered this forum) 
I have an ultrasonic cleaner, I use it a ton on all the small engine carburetors that I work on. just took the valve out and apart, 
now that I think about it (and see the inside of that collar again) this was the one that had the  collar packed full of mud dauber nest under the base that the globe seats on. still had some residue on the collar//// wow I didn't realize how cheesy that collar is, it wanted to bend in my fingers easier than a  pop can. I have the valve apart as far as I could, and put all except for the knob and nut into the ultrasonic... that pick up tube down in the tank had some black soot on the deep end, further up where it screws into the valve it was greenish like copper and brass commonly gets...but I put the needle from within, into the tip of the tube from the "wrong end" and the tube didn't seem obstructed. I put a flash light against the end that screws into the valve and could see daylight thru the end where the end of the pin usually goes, at the bottom of the tube. 
I did look within the tank when I had the valve out and it is very clean, no sign of any rust, corrosion or other funk within. 

. as I remember I THINK that I put a new packing on this unit back when I fought it the last time that I had tried to get it to fire.... hope I don't need another one, now that it is (back) out (again?) this is the 1st time I have unscrewed a valve from a Coleman lantern/ though I seem to remember having been into one from a stove, sometime in the past.  I have some of those fuel/air tubes, they must be for the stoves, just something I had bought at the time because they seemed like a "good deal" I have 4-5 of them, new in individual paper manila envelopes, PN starting with either 413 or 425 on all of them. some are longer than this one, some shorter. If I had one here that looked the same, I was gonna just pop one on there.
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zoomkat
After being pumped up and a start attempt made with the fuel control valve full open, does the lantern continue to hiss some and depressurize with in a couple of minutes? If so, then the fuel control rod may be stuck in the down position, or sometime in the past the fuel control rod spring was installed incorrectly.
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dodge trucker
no, the hissing had come and gone intermittently. It seemed that when I would tilt it with the valve open it would sometimes start to hiss again but not for very long. I have the rod in the suction tube in the ultrasonic cleaner right now/ but I left the spring loosely on that rod, from what I saw so far it didn't look like it would make a difference which way it was slid onto that rod... or that was my impression.... again, 1st time having a  valve apart on one of these.
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zoomkat
"from what I saw so far it didn't look like it would make a difference which way it was slid onto that rod"

It most definitely matters.
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dodge trucker
ok I just went to check progress of the ultrasonic, and I see that spring had buzz'd its way off the rod... the spring looks like it could go onto the rod "either end up"  but I think it was on the "long end" of the rod, below that raised lip.... is that right?  Parts much cleaner than they started but not "like new" yet... I restarted the cleaner for another 30 min  cycle (longest it can be set for at a time) and came in for the nite…. 
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outlawmws
I just started a new thread on Lantern Diagnostics.  it may help:

Basic Lantern Diagnostics:
[Logo%20Outlaw-half] 
Coleman Blue's 243's #341 - 275 Appreciation Syndicate member 0242
FAS #001 Confusing Future Generations of Collectors, One Lantern at a Time!

“A Human Being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, give orders, take orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook  a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly.  Specialization is for insects.”            - Lazarus Long


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zoomkat
"but I think it was on the "long end" of the rod, below that raised lip.... is that right? "

The spring goes on the underside of the collar on the fuel control rod such that the spring pushes the fuel control rod up.

fuel valve1.jpg 
fuel tube2.jpg 
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Dmacp
Quote:
safety tube?

Yeah. Extends from the bottom of the pump tube to above the filler cap level inside the fount. The air you pump in passes through it from the check valve. If the check valve were to fail it would prevent liquid from squirting out and causing a fire. They plug up occasionally. Clear it by filling the fount with boiling water and pump hard-that usually blows out any obstruction.
Dan
ICCC member #604
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Gunhippie
Your FA tubes are for suitcase stoves--models 413 and 425.

It's extremely rare to need to replace an FA tube. Usually, the fount will rot out before the tube.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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dodge trucker
I have plenty of those stoves too..... probably 4 or 5, not counting the "cheater" propane camp stove. 
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Gunhippie
The only times I've needed to replace a brass FA tube was when I had one lantern and a stove that were missing them.
It's priceless until someone puts a price on it.
Walk a mile in a man's shoes before you criticize him--then you're a mile away, and he has no shoes.
Texan's last words: "Y'all--hold my beer--I wanta' try sumptin'."
Timm--Middle of nowhere, near the end of the road, Oregon.
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Vintageish
no it has never worked since I have had it. I took it apart enough to replace the generator tube and the pump leather, that's as deep as I have been so far. who knows what had been done by past owners? I have had this about 3 years, put the parts mentioned into it about 1-1/2-2 years ago, wouldn't light, put aside til a couple days ago, tried again to light with no success.  but came closer to getting it to light a couple days ago than last time I futzed with it.  Noticed a couple days ago that when I open the valve (tank pressurized and yeah it has fuel) the hiss that these lanterns put off when the valve is open and not lit, was intermittent, came and went, and sounded weak compared to my 2 mantel versions (but this is the 1st 200 that I have ever tried to use)  When it WOULD light it would only last about a minute and die. I have had lanterns get weak as the fuel is used up in the tank where I pump on it a handful of times while lit, brightens them up.  Pumping on this one while it was lit made no difference in keeping it from dying. 


Your replacing the generator helps with possibility of unleaded fuel having gummed one up.

When you get a sputtering and it quits , have you run the pricker repeatedly?
Then re- pressurize and tried again , cracking valve knob it's quarter turn and running pricker while listening?

Had a potentially dirty valve than didn't let fuel past till at a well pressurized half turn. Or so I told myself that was the case when it cut loose and fuel sputtered and hissed...
Purty colors. Well , cept'n maybe that brown when it's on fire...
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dodge trucker
Finally got a chance to get back to this lantern. I put it back together filled it, pumped it up, and it lit right up. Finally. 
Lit easy took right off.
I had bought a couple of check valves and the tool to replace them thinking that it might need to be replaced. Never did pull the original one out. 
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